IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


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1.8 


1.25      1.4    116 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y    14580 

(716)  873-4503 


4^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


O' 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  th> 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  anv  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


3 


D 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 


□   Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  fautre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reii6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Ln  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'una  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  8uppl6mentairos.- 


L'lnstitut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


n 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pa{;as  ddcolor^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quaiiti  indgaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~n  Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  (idition  disponibie 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totdlement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


[y 

^■1^1 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmad  here  het  been  reproduced  thenks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'exempleire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
ginArositd  de: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


The  in>ages  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6X6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettat6  de  I'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemolaires  originaux  dont  la  couvtirture  en 
papier  esi  imprimAe  sont  film^s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  urse  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  !a 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
bef^inning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  6  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  6  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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JillB,lW«()iJU!.iMMil|«lJJlfi 


§y  or.  .«»'v 


DIRECTORY 


FOR 


BEHRING'S  SEA  AND  COAST  OF  ALASKA, 


ARKANOED  FROM  THE 


DIRECTORY  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN, 


BT 


A.   a.   FINDLAY: 


CORRECTED  FROM  CHARTS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  SURVEYING 
EXPEDITION  UNDER  COMMAND  OF  COMMODORE  JOHN 
RODGERS,  1855,  AND  FROM  SURVEYS  OF  COM- 
MANDER R.  W.  MEADE,  Jr.,  COMMAND- 
ING UNITED  STATES  STEAMER 
SAGINAW,  1869. 


II 


BUREAU    OF    NAVIGATION. 


\ 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING   OFFICE, 

1869. 

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ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


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C HA  P  T  p]  R  I. 

COAST  OF   BRITISH  AMERICA,  FROM   QUEEN  CHARLOTTE  SOUND  TO  THE 

PORTLAND  CANAL. 

The  little-frequented  coast  described  in  this  chapter  forms  pjirt  of  the 
territory  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  is  the  western  seaboard  of 
the  districts  formerly  known  under  the  names  of  l!^ew  Hanover  and  New 
Cornwall.  The  whole  of  it  is  fronted  by  an  immense  collection  of  islands 
of  all  dimensions  and  forms.  Within  these  is  a  correspondingly  extensi  ve 
series  of  channels  and  arms  of  the  sea,  forming  a  most  complete  chain  of 
inland  navigation,  which  may  be  i)nrsued  for  many  degrees  to  the  north- 
ward without  interruption  or  exposure  to  the  oceanic  swell.  It  is  true 
that  in  many  parts  these  canals  are  too  narrow  to  be  very  advantageous 
for  sailing  vessels  to  work  through,  and  are  thei^efore  more  adapted  for 
steam  navigation  than  by  other  modes ;  yet  the  great  depth  of  water,  in 
most  parts  all  but  unfathomable,  and  the  boldness  of  the  shores,  make 
this  disadvantage  of  less  imnortance.  One  feature  adverted  to  by  Vanc(m- 
ver,  who  has  excellently  surveyed  part  of  this  inland  navigation,  and 
which  is  remarkable,  is,  that  caution  ought  to  be  used  in  passing  close 
to  some  of  the  projecting  points ;  for  he  found  that,  nothwithstanding  the 
perpendicularity  of  the  clift's  composing  the  shores,  that  a  shelf  Avould 
sometimes  project  under  water  from  the  general  line  of  the  upper  por- 
tion, a  fact  which,  if  neglected,  might  lead  to  serious  consequences. 

Besides  these  channels  the  continent  is  penetrated  with  numerous  and 
peculiar  canals,  whose  characteristics,  greatly  similar  in  all  cases,  will 
be  best  gathered  from  the  ensuing  descriptions.  There  are  no  rivers, 
or  at  least  none  of  importance  have  been  discovered.  They  are  mere 
torrents,  fed  in  summer  by  the  melting  of  the  snow,  a.  1  in  the  winter 
'by  the  untiring  deluges  of  this  dismal  climate.  The  Babine,  the  Nass, 
and  the  Stikine  are  the  only  ones  within  the  territories  visited  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  that  nuiy  be  ascended  to  anj-  distance,  and  even 
these  oidy  with  considerable  difticulty  and  danger. 

The  principal  discoveries  on  the  coast  are  due  to  the  zeal  and  perse- 
verance of  two  intelligent  men,  who  traded  thither  under  the  license  of 
the  South  Sea  Company.  These  we'^e  Captains  Portlock  and  Uixon ; 
they  made  the  principal  discoveries  on  e  coast  subsequent  to  Captain 
Cook's  visit,  in  his  last  voyage.  Their  .arratives  are,  nevertheless,  too 
diffuse,  an<l  i  bound  too  nuich  with  personal  narrative  and  minutia;  to 
afford  much  general  information  on  the  country  they  visited. 


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4  VLASKA   DIRECTORY. 

It  is  to  the  excellent  surveys  of  Vancouver,  in  1792,  that  we  owe  the 
greater  part  of  the  knowledge  we  possess  of  the  inland  navigation  and 
nautical  information  of  this  country,  and  in  the  subsequent  pages  it 
must  be  considered  that  all  portions  not  otherwise  noticed  have  been 
derived  from  the  narrative  of  his  voyage. 

Besides  Portlock,  Dixon,  and  Vancouver,  the  Spaniards  have  surveyed 
a  portion,  and  .their  charts  fill  up  the  vacancies  left  by  the  other ;  but  of 
their  surveys  we  have  no  verbal  description  to  be  of  service.  In  the 
voyages  of  Meares,  there  are  also  some  notices  of  visitors  to  this  coast 
during  the  origin  of  the  fur  trade,  as  arising  out  of  the  notice  afforded  by 
Captain  Cook.  Then  Captain  lugraham  visited  the  southeast  side  of 
Queen  Charlotte  Island ;  and  Captain  Gray,  who  discovered  the  Colum- 
bia River,  first  explored  it  in  the  Washington,  which  name  he  applied 
to  it. 

With  this  extensive  island,  second  only  iti  extent  to  Vancouver  Island, 
we  are  very  imperfectly  acquainted,  though  it  is  believed  to  i)0ssess  many 
advantages,  and  to  be  a  fine  island,  destined,  iierhaps,  at  no  very  dis- 
tant period,  to  become  of  considerable  importance  in  the  trade  and  oper- 
ations in  the  Pacific. 

As  before  stated,  the  territory  is  under  the  government  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company ;  and  is  consequently  subject  to  their  laws  and  trade. 
But  little,  if  any,  foreign  commerce  is  therefore  carried  on.  The  whole 
productions  of  the  country,  chiefly  furs  aiul  peltry,  are  procured  from  the 
natives  at  certain  points,  and  perhaps  at  stated  inteI^'als,  by  the  periodic 
visits  of  the  company's  officers.  Their  posts  are  liable  to  change,  and 
therefore  cannot  now  be  definitely  described,  and  are  of  less  imi)ortance, 
as  the  local  knowledge  of  these  affairs  must  be  so  much  more  complete 
tl\an  any  we  can  procure  in  Eiuope.  These  imperfect  notes  must  be 
considered  as  rather  intended  to  give  a  vague  notion  of  the  country  to 
strangers  than  as  specific  instructions  for  visitors. 

Of  the  climate  or  other  productions  of  the  territory  we  have  no  infor- 
mation, no  resident  or  traveler,  except  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  and 
more  recently  Fir  George  Simpson,  having  given  anything  to  the  world 
respecting  it. 

The  Indian  inhabitants  are  of  very  different  character,  habits,  and 
manners  to  those  of  the  Amc  ican  races  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
with  which  Europeans  are  more  fam  Qiar  from  numerous  travelers'  descrip- 
tions. Several  causes  contribute  to  produce  this  remarkable  variety. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  mountains  the  buffalo  is  the  great  source  of  pro- 
vision to  the  Indian  tribes.  They  are  therefore  hunters,  dependent  on 
their  skill  and  activity  for  subsistence.  This  animal  has  never  penetrated 
to  the  west  side  of  these  mountains;  at  the  same  time,  the  great  rivers 
rising  on  their  west  side  abound  with  salmon  almost  to  their  source. 
The  inland  tribes  living  chiefly  on  the  margins  of  these  streams  live  on 
salmon  during  tUe  summer,  and  prepare  great  quantities  of  the  same  fish 
for  their  v/inter  supply.    By  thus  obtaining  their  subsistence  by  fishing, 


.i^" 


.»<-^ 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


^e  the 

1  and 

ges  it 

been 


they  are  more  sedentary  than  those  east  of  the  mountains,  and,  from  their 
more  settled  mode  of  life,  have  made  considerable  progress  in  the  rude 
arts  of  the  savage.  They  are  more  accustomed  to  continuous  labor,  and 
show  great  aptitude  for  agriculture.  Westerly  winds  prevail  on  the 
Pacific  coasts  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  render  the 
climate  extremely  moist  and  mild ;  the  natives  then  go  about,  even  dur- 
ing winter,  with  very  slight  clothing.  The  custom  of  flattening  the 
head,  so  conmion  among  the  southern  tribes,  appears  to  be  unknown  to 
the  tribes  north  of  Vancouver  Island.  But  it  is  replaced  by  one  equally 
singular  and  disgusting.  This  is  the  labret,  or  lip-piece,  worn  after  they 
arrive  at  maturity.  An  incision  is  made  under  the  lower  lip,  in  which 
a  piece  of  wood  or  bone  is  inserted,  and  the  deformity  extended  by  this 
means  to  the  utmost  limits.    This  custom  is  going  out  of  fashion. 

Queen  Charlotte  Sound  was  so  named  by  Captain  S.  Wedgbo- 
rougli,  of  the  Experiment,  in  1780.  Capes  Scott  and  Caution  form  its 
western  limits,  and  it  is  the  northern  outlet  of  the  chain  of  inlets  which 
insulate  Vancouver  Island.  Here  there  is  an  interruption  to  the  con- 
tinuity of  the  inland  navigation,  which  extends  from  Do  Fuca's  Strait  to 
Cross  ^ound.  The  navigation  along  this  coast  is  one  of  considerable 
danger,  on  account  of  the  prevalence  of  fogs  and  the  presence  of  the 
Virgin  and  Pearl  Rocks.  The  tidal  currents,  too,  are  violent  and  irregnlar. 

Cape  Caution,  Avhich  forms  the  northeast  limit  of  Queen  Charlotte 
Sound,  was  so  named  by  Vancouver  on  his  second  visit,  from  the  dan- 
gerous navigation  in  its  vicinity.  It  makes  a  conspicuous  cape,  termin- 
ating in  rugged,  rocky,  low  hummocks,  that  produce  some  dwarf  pine 
and  other  small  trees  and  shrubs.  Off  the  cape  are  some  very  danger- 
ous breakers,  consisting  apparently  of  three  distinct  patches,  occupying 
the  space  of  a  league.  Their  eastern  i>art  bears  from  Cape  Caution  west 
by  north  one-half  north,  distant  about  five  miles  ;  but  the  rocks  that  lie 
off  the  shore  to  the  northward  of  the  cape  reduce  the  width  of  the  chan- 
nel between  them  and  the  breakers  to  about  a  league,  in  which  there 
does  not  appear  any  obstructiou  which  is  not  sufiQciently  conspicuous  to 
be  avoided. 

The  Virgin  and  Pearl  Eocks  are  two  very  dangerous  clusters  off 
the  entrance  to  Smith's  Inlet;  They  were  discovered  and  named  by  Mr. 
Hanna,  in  178G.  The  Virgin  Rocks  lie  west  by  north  one-quarter  north, 
thirteen  miles  from  the  sonth  point  of  Smith's  Inlet;  and  the  Pearl 
Rocks,  northwest  three-quarters  north,  eight  miles  from  the  same  point. 
They  lie  in  a  line  west-southwest  from  the  south  extreme  of  Calvert's 
Island^  eleven  and  four  miles  distant  respectively. 

Smith's  Inlet. — The  entrance  lies  about  seven  miles  north  of  Cape 
Caution,  tho  intervening  coast  being  bestrewed  with  rocks  and  islets. 
The  entrance  into  it  is  nearly  closed  by  rocky  islets,  some  producing 
shrubs  and  small  trees,  others  none;  with  innumerable  rocks,  as  well 
above  as  beneath  the  sea,  rendering  it  a  very  intricate  and  dangerous 
navigation  for  shipping.    About  three  leagues  within  the  entrance  the 


..^■■^ 


X- 


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6 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


i .. 


!     i- 


rock.s  and  Lshits  ceaHe  to  exist,  aiul  the  inlet  contracts  to  about  half  a 
niilo  in  general  width.  The  shores  are  both  formed  of  high  rocky  preci- 
pices covered  with  wood. 

RiyER's  Canal  is  about  a  league  to  the  northward  of  the  north  point 
of  Sinith's  Inlet.  The  entrance  to  it  ai)pears  less  dangerous  than  the 
latter.  It  has,  however,  on  its  southern  side  many  rocky  islets  and 
rocks,  but  none  were  discovered  beneath  the  water  level.  By  keeping 
on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance,  which  is  one  and  a  half  miles  across, 
a  fair  navigable  passage  is  found,  about  half  a  mile  wide,  between  the 
n«nth  shore  and  the  rocky  islets  that  lie  off  its  southern  side.  The  land 
about  its  mouth  is  of  juodorate  height,  but  toward  its  head,  where  it 
branches  off  in  different  directions,  the  shores  ure  composed  .of  high, 
steep,  rocky  mountains,  and,  like  Smith's  Inlet  and  nmny  other  of  the 
canals  in  the  neighborhood,  there  was  no  bottom  found  in  the  middle 
with  eighty  fathoms  of  line;  though  in  the  bays  found  in  most  of  these 
canals  anchorage  may,  in  sill  probability,  be  procured. 

From  Elver's  Canal  a  channel  diverges  toward  the  south  end  of  Cal- 
vert's Island.  It  is  very  imrrow  and  intricate,  leading  through  an  im- 
mensity of  rocks  and  islets  to  Point  Addenbrooke,  in  Fitzhugh's  Sound. 

Calvert's  Island  forms  the  exterior  coast  northward  of  River's 
Canal,  and  within  it  is  Fitzhugh's  Sound;  the  former  was  discovered  and 
named  by  Mr.  Duncan,  the  latter  by  Mr.  Ilanna.  Off  the  south  point 
of  the  island  are  two  small  islets.  The  eastern  side  of  the  island  forms 
a  steep,  bold  shore,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  to  a  great  height,  com- 
posed of  rock,  and,  like  the  eastern  shore,  entirely  covered  with  pine 
trees. 

Safety  Cove  (Port  Safety  of  Mr.  Duncan!)  is  two  leagues  north  of 
the  south  extreme  of  Calvert's  Island,  on  the  west  shore  of  Fitzhugh's 
Sound.  It  terminates  in  a  small  beach,  near  which  is  a  stream  of  excel- 
lent water  and  an  abundance  of  wood.  The  depth  is,  however,  rather 
great — seventeen  to  thirty  fathoms.  A  small  rock  and  two  rocky  islets 
lie  off  its  north  i)oiut  of  entrance,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
wide.  It  is  the  first  place  that  affords  safe  and  convenient  anchorage  on 
the  western  shore  within  Fitzhugh's  Sound.  Vancouver  found  it  a  com- 
fortable retreat  in  August,  17{)2.  High  water  at  the  time  the  moon 
passes  the  meridian ;  rise  and  fall  about  ten  feet. 

At  thirteen  miles  northward  of  Safety  Cove  is  the  passage  which  in- 
sulates Calvert  Island.  Vancouver  places  its  northeast  point  in  latitude 
51°  45'.  South  of  this  point  lies  a  sunken  rock,  which,  though  near  the 
shore,  is  dangerous,  being  visible  at  low  tide  only,  by  the  surf,  which 
breaks  on  it.  From  this  point  the  passage  extend>s  southwest  by  west 
one-half  west,  about  seven  miles.  Its  northern  shore  is  composed  of 
rocky  islets  and  rocks,  with  some  scattered  rocks  off  its  northern  shore. 
Between  these  rocks  is  a  passage,  generally  one  or  two  miles  wide,  but 
rendered  unpleasant  by  the  Avant  of  soundings,  the  dei)th  being  beyond 
one  huutlred  and  fifty  fathoms. 


f^   -■■ 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY.  7 

FiTZHTian's  Sound  extends  for  twenty-six  miles  from  Safety  Cove,  in 
nearly  a  true  north  direction,  to  Point  Walker,  where  it  separates  into 
two  arms.  The  easternmost  was  named  by  Vancouver  after  Ednuuul 
Burke.  Its  southeast  point  is  Point  Edmund,  about  two  miles  east- 
southeast  from  Point  Walker.  There  are  some  rocks  off  the  points,  but 
the  channel  is  fair.  The  sides  of  the  canal  are  composed  of  compact, 
stupendous  mountains,  and  nearly  perpendicular  rocky  cliffs,  producing 
pine  trees  to  a  considerable  height  above  the  shores,  and  then  barren,  or 
nearly  so,  to  their  lofty  summits,  which  were  mostly  covered  with  snow 
in  August. 

Eestoration  Cove  is  about  eight  miles  within  the  entrance  to  the 
eastern  branch  of  Burke's  Canal.  It  has  a  tine  sandy  beach,  through 
which  flows  an  excellent  stream  of  water.  The  breadth  of  the  cove  at 
its  entrance,  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  is  about  one  and  a  quarter 
miles,  and  its  depth  .about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  The  soundings, 
though  deep,  are  regular,  from  sixty  fathoms  at  the  entrance,  to  Ave  and 
ten  fathoms  close  tc  the  shore.  The  land  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
arm  is  two  and  a  half  miles  distant.  The  tide  rises  and  falls  fourteen 
feet,  those  in  the  night  one  foot  higher  than  the  day  tides;  the  flood 
comes  from  the  south,  and  it  is  high  water  at  the  time  the  moon  passes 
the  meridian.    Variation,  19°  15'  east. 

Bueke's  Canal,  extends  to  the  northeast,  maintaining  the  same 
breadth.  Its  northwestern  side  is  formed  by  a  large  island,  named  by 
Vancouver  King's  Island.  After  continuing  eleven  miles  in  an  easterly 
direction  from  the  northeast  point  of  King's  Island,  the  canal  separates 
into  two  arms,  to  the  northeast  and  southeast  at  Point  Menzies. 

These  arms  were  named  by  Vancouver  Bentinck's  Arms.  The  width 
of  that  to  the  southeast  in  general  a  little  exceeds  a  mile,  and  the  coun- 
try exactly  resembles  that  contiguous  to  the  branches,  Avhich  have  been 
so  repeatedly  described.  On  the  eastern  side  of  this  canal,  near  the 
head  of  a  small  rivulet,  a  native  house,  of  singular  construction,  was 
observed  by  Mr.  Johnstone,  of  Vancouver's  party,  and  some  Indians  led 
them  to  a  village  different  to  any  they  had  seen. 

Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  reached  the  Paciflc  after  his  long,  arduous, 
and  perilous  journey  across  the  continent  at  this  point  a  month  after 
Vancouver's  party  had  left.  He  came  to  a  village  of  twenty-six  large 
houses,  Avhere  Mr.  Johnstone  had  come  on  June  1st,  1793,  as  above  no- 
ticed. He  coasted  along  King's  Island,  and  learned  that  Macubah  (as 
the  natives  termed  Vancouver)  had  been  there  with  his  large  canoe.  He 
commenced  his  return  July  22,  1793.* 

"  This  is  as  desolate,  inhospitable  a  country  as  the  most  melancholy 
creature  could  be  desirous  of  inhabiting.  The  eagle,  crow,  and  raven, 
that  occasionally  had  borne  us  company  in  our  lonely  researches,  visited 
not  these  dreary  shores.    The  common  shell-fish,  such  as  nuissels,  clams, 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  342,  et  seq.;  aud  Vancouver,  vol.  ii,  pp.  273-4. 


fff    »^ 


.^JSk 


8 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Hi 


and  cockles,  and  the  nettle,  samphire,  and  other  coarse  vegetables,  that 
had  been  so  essential  to  our  health  and  maintenance  in  all  our  former 
excursions,  (in  the  southward,)  were  hardly  found  anywhere  to  exist ; 
scarcely  any  signs  of  human  beings  were  found  in  the  country,  which 
appears  to  be  devoted  entirely  to  the  amjdiibious  race;  seals  and  sea- 
otters,  particularly  the  latter,  were  seen  in  great  nund)ers."* 

The  northeast  point  of  King's  Island  was  named  Point  Edward.  Op- 
posite to  it  is  the  entrance  of  Dean's  Canal,  which  penetrates  many 
miles  in  a  northeast  and  north  direction,  terminating  in  low  marshy 
laud.    In  this  inlet  neither  ebb  nor  flood  occasions  any  visible  stream. 

Cascade  Canal  is  to  the  north Avest  of  Toint  Edward.  Its  shores 
are  bounded  by  precipices  more  lofty  than  any  hereabouts;  and  from  the 
summits  of  the  mcuntains,  p.articularly  on  the  northeast  shore,  are  some 
extremely  grand  and  tremendous  cascades.  The  canal  which  forms  the 
northwest  side  of  King's  Island  runs  southwest  to  Fisher's  Canal. 

FiSHER'-s  Canal  separates  the  southernmost  of  the  Princess  Royal 
Islands  from  the  mainlai.d. 

The  Princess  Royal  Islands  form  a  portion  of  that  immense  archi- 
pelago which  here  front.'*  the  American  continent.  On  its  western  side 
it  is  uneven,  rocky,  and  of  moderate  height.  The  eastern  shore  rises 
more  abruptly,  and  bounded  behind  v,  itli  lofty  snowy  mountains. 

Port  John  is  ten  miles  nearly  north  of  the  entrance  to  Burke's  Canal, 
before  described.  It  is  on  the  western  side  of  King's  Island,  and  forms 
a  good  harbor.  Its  north  point  ot  entrance  bears  north  by  east  two  miles 
from  its  south  point.  Before  its  entrance  are  two  small  islands,  and 
towards  its  northern  shore  are  some  rocks. 

To  the  north  of  Port  John  is  the  entrance  to  the  canal  previously  men- 
tioned, which  passes  round  the  northwest  side  of  King's  Island  toward 
Cascade  and  Dean's  Canals.  Fisher's  Canal  continues  its  northern 
course  for  twelve  miles  above  Port  John,  its  shores  being  comparatively 
of  moderate  height.  Its  surface,  covered  with  wood,  is  Tcry  uneven. 
From  this  point  it  takes  a  westerly  course  to  Milbank  Sound,  and  forms 
the  north  limit  of  the  southern  Princess  Royal  Islands.  The  course  is 
first  about  west  by  north  one-half  north  a  league,  the  shores  being  low 
and  rocky,  w  ith  many  detached  rocks  lying  oft'  them.  The  channel  then 
takes  a  more  southerly  course,  and  although  there  are  many  rocks  and 
breakers  in  it,  they  are  all  sufficiently  conspicuous  to  be  avoided  in  fair 
weather. 

Milbank  Sound  is  an  opening  between  the  Princess  Royal  Islands, 
in  latitude  52°  13'.  Its  southeast  point  is  Cape  SwaMie,  so  named  after 
the  third  lieutenant  of  the  Discovery,  Vancouver's  vessel.  Milbank 
Sound  was  discovered  and  named  by  Mr.  Duncan.  Its  n,^rthwest  point 
is  Point  Day,  off  which  lie  several  very  barren  rocky  islets.  The  southern 
side  of  the  channel  or  sound,  being  entirely  covered  with  trees  and  with 


*  Vancouver,  vol.  i,  p.  374. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


0 


;s,  that 
former 
exist ; 
which 
h\  sea- 
Op. 
many 
uirshy 

earn. 

sliores 

om  the 
some 

tns  the 

Koyal 


low  sTiores,  is  very  pleasant  in  appearance,  but  the  northern  sides  are 
a  rude,  confused  mass  of  low,  rugj^ed  cliffs,  bounded  by  iuniunerable 
rocky  islets  and  rocks. 

Fort  M'Louohlin,  distant  a  few  miles  from  ]\rilbank  Sound,  is  (or 
was)  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts.  "  This  very  neat  estab- 
lishment was  planned,  in  18;J7,  by  Mr.  Finlayson,of  Ked  Kiver,  who  left 
the  place  in  an  unfinished  state  to  Mr.  Manson,  who,  in  his  turn,  had  cer- 
tainly made  the  most  of  the  capabilities  of  the  situation.  The  site  must 
originally  have  been  one  of  the  most  rugged  spots  imaginable;  a  mere 
rock,  in  fact,  as  uneven  as  the  adjacent  Avaters  in  a  tempest:  while  its 
soil,  buried  as  it  was  iu  itij  *  '^vices,  served  only  to  encumber  the  surface 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  tim  >er.  Besides  blasting  and  leveling,  Mr. 
Manson,  Avithout  the  aid  ot  horse  or  ox,  had  introduced  several  thousand 
loads  of  gravel,  while  '  y  his  judicious  contrivances  in  the  way  of  forti- 
fication, he  had  rendered  the  place  capable  of  holding  out,  with  a  garri- 
son of  twenty  men,  agaii»  t  nli  Ih'^  natives  of  the  coast.  Mr.  Mauson's 
successor,  Mr.  Charles  Uo'i,  had  made  considerable  additions  to  the 
garden,  which,  when  81r  Geuxge  Simpson  visited  it,  in  1842,  was  about 
three  acres  in  extent,  with  a  soil  i)iiiif'ipally  formed  of  seaweed,  and 
produced  cabl)ages,  potatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  and  other  vegetables. 

''  In  the  neighborhood  6f  the  fort  was  a  village  of  about  live  hundred 
Bollabollas,  who  spoke  a  dialect  of  the  Quakeolth  language.  Here  Sir 
George  Simpson  first  saw  that  disgusting  and  singular  ornament  of  the 
fair  sex,  the  lip-piece.  The  fashion,  however,  is  now  wearing  out,  from 
respect  to  the  opinion  of  the  whites."* 

Several  inlets  or  arms  run  up  to  the  northward  from  the  canal  leading 
from  Fisher's  Canal  into  Milbank  Sound.  They  are  very  similar  in  char- 
acter, and  need  no  particular  description.  The  principal  arm  out  of 
Milbank  Sound  is  the  westernmost,  and  runs  in  a  general  northerly  direc- 
tion for  thirty  miles,  when  it  divides,  one  portion  contiiiuing  to  the  north- 
ward, and  a  wider  branch  extending  eastward  to  Carter's  Bay  and  Mus- 
sel Canal.  These  two  last  derive  their  names  from  one  of  Vancouver's 
party  ha\ing  died  from  the  effects  of  poisonous  mussels  collected  in  Poison 
Cove,  latitude  52°  55',  longitude  128<^  1'  west.  The  whole  party  who 
partook  of  them  were  seized  with  a  numbness  about  their  faces  and  ex- 
tremities, wnich  soon  extended  to  their  whole  bodies,  accompanied  with 
sickness  and  gi<ldines"^,  This  may  serve  as  a  caution  here,  tliongh  gen- 
erally the  shellfish  is  wholesome. 

From  Carter's  Bay  the  principal  inlet  continues  its  northward  course, 
and  five  miles  beyond  the  junction  is  an  opening,  ajiparently  communi- 
cating with  the  sea,  running  southward  on  the  western  side  of  the  chan- 
nel; thirteen  and  seventeen  miles  further  on  are  two  openings  on  the 
opposite  or  eastern,  which  extend  but  a  short  distance  inland.  Vancou- 
ver found  scarcely  any  inhabitants  here.    The  tides  rose  fifteen  feet,  and 


'  Journey  Round  the  World,  vol,  i,  p,  204. 


"**v,, 


10 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


f 


I 


it  was  high  water  ten  hours  fifteen  minutes  after  the  moon  passed  the 
meridian.  Continuing  northward,  but  bearing  more  to  the  Avestward, 
the  canal  still  skirts  the  western  shore  of  the  Princess  Royal  Islands,  as 
far  as  its  north  extreme.  Near  this,  on  the  eastern  shore,  is  a  commo- 
dious cove,  where  Vancouver  anchored.  This  little  bay  is  formed  by  a 
stony  beach,  through  which  a  considerable  run  of  water  falls  into  the  sea. 
The  south  i^oiiii  of  it  is  a  rocky  lumi),  covered  with  trees,  which  be- 
comes an  island  at  high  water.  The  anchorage  was  in  rorty-six  fathoms 
one  and  a  half  cables  from  this  lum'^),  the  nearest  shore.  A  league 
northward  is  a  small  inlet,  where  a  hot  spring  was  discovered. 

In  sailing  among  the  rocky  precipices  which  compose  the  shores  of  the 
channels  hitherto  described,  it  is  not  always  safe  to  make  too  free  with 
them  in  sailing  by,  for  they  are  frequently  found  to  jut  out  a  few  yards 
at  or  a  little  below  low-water  mark ;  and  if  a  vessel  slioidd  ground  on 
any  of  those  projecting  points  about  high  water,  she  would,  on  the  fall- 
ing tide,  if  heeling  from  the  shore,  be  in  a  very  dangerous  situation. 

To  the  north  of  this  anchorage  before  mentioned,  the  channel  contin- 
ues between  the  mainland  and  Haw  kesbury's  Island.  The  shores  are 
like  the  rest  described,  partly  composed  of  lofty  steep  mountains  rising 
nearly  perpendicularly  from  the  sea,  and  covered  from  the  water  side  to 
their  summits  with  i)iues  and  forest  trees.  The  other  parts,  equally  well 
wooded,  are  less  elevated,  and  terminate  in  sandy  beaches  with  project- 
ing points,  forming  several  small  bays  and  coves.  It  takes  an  irregular 
northerly  direction  for  about  fifteen  miles,  when  it  turns  eastward  to 
Point  Staniforth,  placed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  53<^  54',  longitude 
(corrected)  128°  33'  west,  before  reaching  which  Mr.  Whidbey,  who 
explored  it,  observed  more  drift  wood  than  on  any  part  of  the  coast. 

Gardner's  Canal  runs  forty-five  miles  in  an  irregular  course  to  the 
eastward;  its  upper  part  passing  through  a  country  that  is  almost  an 
entirely  barren  waste,  nearly  destitute  of  wood  and  verdure,  prcBenting 
to  the  eye  one  rude  mass  of  almost  naked  rocks  rising  into  lofty  moun- 
tains, whose  towering  summits,  seeming  to  overhang  their  bases,  give 
them  a  tremendous  appearance.  The  waole  is  covered  Avith  perpetual 
ice  and  snow,  and  many  waterfalls  descend  in  every  direction  in  the 
summer. 

Northward  from  Point  Staniforth  the  principal  branch  of  the  inlet 
continues  seventeen  milgs  to  Point  Hopkins,  on  the  eastern  shore,  Avhich 
is  up  to  this  nearly  straight  and  ci-iupact,  moderately  elevated  and  well 
covered  with  Avood.  Northward  of  Point  IIopKius  the  inlet  continues  to 
the  latitude  of  54°  4',  Avhere  it  is  terminated  by  a  border  of  low  land,  dif- 
fering from  the  generality  of  these  arms,  from  the  abrupt  mountains  on 
dtlier  side  continuing  parallel  some  leagues  beyond  the  head,  forming 
a  nairow  valley  covered  Avith  tall  forest  trees.  The  Salmon  Itiver  falls 
into  an  inlet  running  to  the  eavSt  at  seven  miles  aboA'e  Point  Hopkins. 

The  north  point  of  HaAvkesbury's  Island  is  oi)posite  Point  Hopkins. 
Its  south  point  is  Point  Cumming,  in  latitude  53°  18^'.    It  is  thus  about 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


11 


sed  the 
stward, 
lids,  as 
ioinmo- 
ed  bj^a 
the  sea. 
ich  be- 
athoms 
league 


thirty-throe  miles  in  length,  and  from  three  to  eleven  miles  broad.  The 
continent  to  the  westward  forms  a  point,  Avhich  extends  to  about  the 
same  latitude  as  the  south  point  of  Ilawkesbury's  Island,  and  liaviug 
one  of  the  numerous  arms  or  canals  dividhig  them. 

The  north  point  of  the  Isle  de  Gil  is  opposite  Point  Cumming,  and 
the  south  opening  to  the  inlet  last  mentioned.  There  is  anchorage  at 
this  north  point:  it  is  in  a  bay  on  the  northeast  part  of  the  island,  about 
two  miles  from  its  northern  extremity  on  the  western  shore  of  the  islet. 
Here  Vancouver  anchored  in  forty  fathoms,  stones,  shells,  and  sandy 
bottom,  mooring  with  .1  hawser  to  the  shore,  the  outer  points  of  the  bay 
bearing  by  comi)ass  northwest  to  southeast  by  east,  distant  a  cable's 
length  from  the  shore.  The  shore  affords  abundance  of  berries  and 
Labrador  tea.  Fish  may  also  be  caught,  which  in  these  regions  is  a  very 
scarce  commodity,  and  hence,  from  his  success  in  this,  Vancouver  called 
it  Fisherman's  Cove.  In  tliis  cove  are  two  considerable  runs  of  fresh 
water,  and  wood  may  easily  be  procured  in  abundance.  Latitude  53° 
18^',  longitude  128°  57'. 

There  is  also  anchorage  directly  to  the  southwest  of  the  north  point 
of  the  Isle  de  Gil,  or  Ysla  de  Gil,  which  was  so  named  by  Senor  Oaam- 
auo,  in  1792.  It  is  about  live  leagues  long,  north  and  south,  and  five 
miles  broad;  of  a  moderate  though  uneven  height,  composed  chiefly  of 
rocky  nuiterials,  covered  with  inferior  pine  trees,  and  having  to  the  north 
and  northwest  of  it  much  broken  and  divided  land. 

The  Isle  de  la  Campania,  to  the  westward  of  it,  has  a  conspicuous 
ridge  of  mountains,  and,  Avhen  seen  from  eastward,  Avith  a  remarkable 
peak,  nearly  in  the  center,  cousiderablj'  above  the  rest.  Their  suumiits 
are  naked  rocks,  without  the  least  appearance  of  verdure. 

Nepean  Sound  is  to  the  northward  of  these  islands,  and  that  <  f  San 
Estevan,  which  is  the  outermost.  The  general  character  of  these  islands 
differs  little  from  that  of  the  surrounding  region.  That  on  the  sea-coast 
is  somewhat  less  mountainous,  chiefly  covered  with  Avood,  and  less 
encumbered  Avith  snoAv  than  the  summits  of  the  interior. 

To  the  nortliAvestward  of  these  lie  the  extensive  islands  forming  Pitt's 
Ai'chipelago  and  Banks's  Island,  separated  from  the  continent  by  Gren- 
ville's  Canal,  and  from  each  other  by  the  Canal  de  Principe ;  the  first  so 
named  by  Vancouver,  on  his  exploration  in  1793,  and  the  latter  by  Senor 
Caamano,  Avho  first  navigated  it. 

Grenville's  Canal. — The  southern  entrance  to  Grenville's  Canal  is 
opposite  to  Fisherman's  Cove,  the  north  i)oint  of  the  Isle  de  Gil.  Its 
direction  is  northwest,  one-half  north,  rud  is  nearly  straight  for  fourteen 
miles  on  this  bearing,  to  a  small  harbor  or  rather  cove  on  its  eastern 
shore.  For  two  miles  Avithin  it  Mr.  Wliidbey  (July,  1793)  found  the  sea 
abounding  in  sea-otters,  who  sported  about  the  boats.  At  this  part  it  is 
not  more  than  lialf  a  mile  Avide,  with  straight  and  compact  shores  on 
each  side.  The  shores  of  the  arm  beyond  this  are  inountaiuous  on  the 
east  or  continental  side,  and  Ioav  and  rocky  on  the  opposite ;  both  produc- 


12 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Mg  pine  trees,  interspersed  with  bare  patches.  From  the  small  cove  above 
mentioned,  which  has  a  sandy  beach  at  its  head  and  a  lagoon  of  water 
behind  it,  the  arm  continues  in  the  same  direction  for  four  miles  further 
from  an  island  off  the  northwest  point  of  the  cove.  It  then  stretches 
north-northwest  one-half  west,  about  eight  miles  to  the  south  point  of 
an  opening  on  the  eastern  or  continental  shore,  about  a  mile  wide ;  its 
opposite  j)oint  of  entrance  lying  north.  At  this  point  the  width  of  the 
^maiu  arm  increases  to  nearly  half  a  league.  Off  the  south  part  are 
many  rocks  above  and  below  the  surface.  This  inlet  divides  into  three 
short  arms,  terminating  in  the  usual  way.  ,  ^ 

]!forthwest  three  and  a  half  miles  from  this  is  a  small  cove  on  the  east 
shore  J  and  ten  miles  further,  north-northwest  three-quarters  west,  is  a 
bay  about  a  mile  wide  and  two  deep,  in  a  northeast  direction,  with  many 
islets  and  sunken  rocks  in  it.  The  continental  shore  between  these  last 
is  lined  with  innumerable  rocks  and  islets,  nor  is  the  middle  of  the  chan- 
nel free  from  these  obstructions.  Seven  miles  to  the  northwestward  of 
this,  on  the  opposite  or  western  shore,  is  an  extensive  opening,  running 
to  south- southwest,  apparently  dividing  the  land.  Through  this  open- 
ing the  ebb  tide  sets  with  a  very  rapid  stream,  no  part  of  which  appa- 
rently enters  the  x)assage  to  the  northeast. 

To  the  northward  of  this  opening  is  a  high  island,  about  seven  miles 
long;  and  ten  miles  north  of  it  is  Point  Lambert,  on  the  continental 
shore.  To  the  northeast ;  of  this  point  is  Port  Essington,  an  extensive 
sound,  surrounded  by  a  moderately  elevated  country,  particularly  on  the 
northwest;  but  to  the  north  and  east  the  view  is  bounded  by  lofty  bar- 
ren mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  entrance  to  Port 
Essington  is  narrowed  by  a  shoal  against  Point  Lambert,  forming  a 
rounding,  spit  of  three  to  six  feet  water,  with  many  dead  trees  in  it, 
causing  the  channel  to  be  on  the  north  side.  The  tide  rushes  in  furioiisly, 
the  flood  four  and  the  ebb  five  knots,  the  water  being  j)erfectly  fresh  at 
low  tide.    Many  sea-otters  were  seen. 

Opposite  to  the  entrance  to  Port  Essington  are  some  islands,  forming 
the  north  side  of  the  opening  into  Chatham's  Sound,  to  one  of  which  the 
name  of  Raspberry  Island  was  given  by  Vancouver,  from  the  quantity 
of  excellent  raspberries  he  found  there.  The  passage  through  is  two 
miles  long  and  about  a  mile  wide  between  the  islands,  but  mostly  occu- 
pied by  shoals,  which  contract  it  to  a  very  narrow  channel  close  on  the 
southern  side.  To  the  northwest  of  this  channel  Chatham's  Sound  is 
interspersed  in  most  directions  with  small  islands,  rocks,  and  shoals;  one 
in  particular,  an  extensive  sandbank,  bears  northwest  by  west  a  league 
from  the  oj)eniug.  To  the  southwest  of  this  bank  are  some  islands,  on 
which  the  compass  is  strongly  affected,  Mr.  Whidbey  finding  a  difference 
of  13°  in  the  direction  of  the  needle. 

Point  Hunt  is  very  conspicuous,  and  forms  the  north  point  of  Pitt's 
Archipelago.  It  is  in  latitude  54°  10^',  and  bears  west  three  miles  from 
the  above-mentioned  islands.    From  Point  Hunt  the  shores  of  the  land 


on 
Piiil 
is  ol 
app| 

Pl 
Its 
tioij 

11 
ChJ 


'»f 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


la 


ibove 
Iwater 
lirther 
kches 
iint  of 
le;  its 

of  the 
Irt  are 

three 


take  an  irregular  direction  of  southwest  one-half  west  to  Point  Pearce, 
the  intermediate  space  bounded  by  innumerable  rocks  and  other  imped- 
iments. Westward  of  this  again  the  shore  falls  back  considerably, 
forming  a  deep  bay,  with  several  small  openings  running  southeastward. 
Cape  Ibbetson  is  the  western  point  of  this  bay,  and  the  northwest  of 
Pitt's  Archipelago.    It  is  a  very  conspicuous,  projecting  land. 

Stephen's  Island  lies  to  the  northwest  of  these  points,  and  is  about 
four  leagues  long.  Between  Cape  Ibbetson  and  its  southwest  point  is  a 
cluster  of  rocky  islets  and  sunken  rocks,  which  thus  lie  in  the  opening 
seaward  of  the  channel  between  Stephen's  Island  and  Pitt's  Archipelago. 
Northward  of  Stephen's  Island  is  an  extensive  and  intricate  cluster  of 
islets  and  rocks,  forming  a  complete  labyrinth  to  navigators,  but  on  its 
eastern  side  is  a  very  commodious  anchoring  i)lace,  in  latitude  54^  18', 
longitude  130°  41',  where  Vancouver  stayed  in  company  with  three  ships 
in  search  of  furs,  &c.,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Brown.  The  group 
extends  west-northwest,  a  league  and  a  half  from  the  north  side  of 
Stephen's  Island,  and  occupying  a  space  of  two  miles  in  width.  To  the 
westward  of  this  group,  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  lies  a  low 
detached  rock,  with  some  breakers  near  it;  there  are  other  lurking  rocks 
lying  about  the  same  distance  from  Stephen's  Island. 

The  land  which  is  separated  from  the  continent  by  Grenville's  Canal, 
and  which  we  have  been  describing,  although  it  was  not  traversed  in  the 
extent  of  twenty  leagues,  was  still  believed  to  consist  of  several  islands, 
and  therefore  received  the  name  of  Pitt's  Archipelago,  after  the  cele- 
brated statesman. 

The  Canal  de  Principe,  between  the  archipelago  and  Banks's  Island, 
extends  from  the  north  point  of  entrance  into  IsTepean  Sound  to  the 
north  point  of  Banks's  Island,  first  northwest  one  quarter  north  to  the 
south  point  of  Puerto  de  Canaveral,  and  thence  northwest  by  west  one- 
half  west  to  its  northwest  point,  in  all  about  fourteen  leagues.  The 
southern  shore  is  nearly  straight  and  compact,  without  soundings;  the 
northern  shore  is  much  broken,  bounded  by  many  rocks  and  islets,  and 
affording  soundings  in  several  places.  On  the  southwest  side  the 
acclivity  is  the  greatest;  but  both  sides  of  the  canal  may  be  considered 
as,  elevated  land,  and  are  entirely  covered  with  pine  trees.  The  shores 
abounded  with  a  great  number  of  very  shy  sea  otters. 

Port  Stephens  is  eighteen  miles  from  the  south  end  of  the  channel, 
on  the  eastei'i  shore.  It  Avas  so  named  by  Captain  Dur/^an,  in  the 
Princess  Koyal,  in  1788.  It  is  a  small  opening,  the  entrance  of  which 
is  obstructed  by  many  islets  and  rocks,  presenting  no  very  tempting 
appearance  as  a  port. 

Port  de  Canaveral,  (of  Senor  Caamano)  is  also  on  the  eastern  shore. 
Its  entrance,  four  and  a  half  miles  wide,  seems  to  be  free  from  obstruc- 
tion.   Off  its  southeast  point  is  a  small  round  island. 

The  channel  between  Pitt's  Archipelago  and  Banks's  I.sland  and  Queen 
Charlotte  Island  appears  to  be  of  irregidar  depth.    To  the  southwest  of 


H. 


/ 


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i-;jf.'T^^i",?';vf>"  'V-^T^^Lyr'-'^T''  1 


14 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


%' 


f: 


the  north  point  of  Banks's  Island,  twenty  miles,  is  a  bank  of  sand  and 
shells  in  twenty-three  to  twen\:y-flve  fathoms,  suddenly  rising  from 
thirty  fathopis,  mud,  on  each  side.  This  bank  apparently  extends 
towards  Point  Ibetson.  , 

Chatham's  Sound  lies  between  Dundas  and  Stephens's  Islands  and 
the  mainland.  The  southern  entrances  have  been  before  described. 
Brown's  Passage  enters  the  sound  between  the  islands  to  the  north 
of  Stephens's  Island  and  Dundas  Island.  This  latter,  in  a  north- 
northwest  direction,  is  fifteen  miles  long,  and  five  broad  east  and 
west.  Tfie  eastern  shores  of  the  sound  are  low,  and  somewhat  indented 
with  small  bays,  and  bounded  by  a  reef  of  rocks  at  the  distance  of  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  off  shore.  The  interior  country  is  snowy  mountains. 
The  shores  and  islands  in  the  sound  produce  large  numbers  of  pine 
trees.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  sound  are  two  clusters  of  rocks  with 
breakers  around,  one  south-southwest  one-half  west  eight  miles,  and  the 
southernmost  southwest  by  south  ten  and  a  half  miles  from  Point 
Maslvolyne.  By  daylight  they  are  easily  avoided,  but  by  night  or  in  fogs 
they  must  be  very  dangerous. 

Point  Maskelyne,  so  named  after  the  astronomer,  forms  the  south- 
east point  of  the  entrance  to  Observatoi'y  Inlet  and  Portland  Canal. 
Off  it  lie  two  rocky  islets,  and  to  the  south  of  it  a  rocky  island  close  to 
the  shore.    The  opposite  or  northwestern  point  is  Point  Wales. 

Works  Canal. — Immediately  east  of  Point  Maskelyne  is  the  entrance 
to  a  branch  which  takes  a  southeast  direction  for  thirty  two  miles, 
its  head  approaching  within  about  half  a  mile  of  the  northeast  part 
of  Port  Essington,  thus  forming  the  land  into  a  peninsula.  Its  south- 
west shores  are  nearly  straight  and  compact;  its  general  width  from 
one  and  a  half  to  two  miles,  excepting  near  the  entrance.  An  arm 
diverges  from  its  northeast  shore  at  twenty-three  miles  within  the 
entrance,  and  trends  in  a  general  northeast  direction,  bu  made  into  a 
tortuous  channel  by  a  remarkably  steep,  rocky  precipice,  which  at  high 
water  becomes  an  island.  It  had  formerly  been  appropriated  to  .he  resi- 
dence of  a  very  numerous  tribe  of  Indians. 

"  Fort  Slmpson,  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  establishments, 
was  originally  formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nass  liiver,  but  had  been 
removed  to  this  peninsula,  washed  on  three  sides  by  Chatham  Sound, 
Port  Essington,  and  Works  Canal.  It  is  the  resort  of  a  vast  number  of 
Indians,  amounting  in  all  to  about  14,000,  of  various  tribes.  All  these 
visitors  are  turbulent  and  fierce.  Their  broils,  which  are  invariably 
attended  with  bloodshed,  generally  arise  from  the  most  trivial  causes; 
such,  for  instance,  as  gambling  quarrels,  or  the  neglect  of  points  of 
etiquette.  Here  the  lip-piece  is  in  more  general  use  than  on  any  other 
part  of  the  coast,  but  is  clearly  going  out  of  vogue ;  for  it  wsis  far  more 
common  among  the  ancient  dames  than  among  the  young  women.  The 
anchorage  is  in  latitude  54°  33'  2o",  longitude  130°  18'."* 

*  Sir  George  Simpson,  vol.  i,  p.  207. 


I 


were  g 
flavor 
Thei 
1310  '^ 
8  mini 
about 
Be,> 
tion, 
same 
Obsei 
aboui 
Poi 
diverj 

for  al 

leagi 

ating 

entra 

and  i 

rockj 

interi 

with 

leapii 

num) 

upwiil 
ThI 


■^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


15 


ul  and 
from 
sxteiids 

ids  and 

icribed. 

nortli 

iiortli- 

ist  and 

iidented 

lice  of  a 

untains. 

of  pine 

['ks  with 

and  the 

111  Point 

»r  in  fogs 

le  south- 
id  Canal, 
close  to 

entrance 
(vo  miles, 
least  part 
[ts  south- 
idth  from 

An  arm 
ithin  the 
ade  into  a 
'li  at  high 
;o  ihe  resi- 

lifshraents, 

had  been 

,m  Sound, 

number  of 

All  these 

invariably 

ial  causes; 

'  points  of 

any  other 

s  far  more 

men.    The 


/ 


At  the  mouth  of  "Works  Canal,  northeast  of  Point  Maskelyne,  is  an 
island  wliidi  divides  the  entrance  into  two  channels ;  in  the  rear  of  this 
is  a  short  arm  called  Nass  Bay,  and  further  northeast  is  one  more  exten- 
sive ;  neither  require  particular  notice. 

Observatory  Inlet. — The  principle  inlet  runs  iu  a  northeast  one-half 
north  direction ;  and  at  twenty-one  miles  above  Points  Maskelyne  and 
Wales  the  Portland  Canal  diverges  from  the  principle  one  at  Point  Hams- 
den.  Oif  this  point  are  some  dangerous  rocks,  only  visible  at  low  water, 
and  opposite  to  it  is  a  deep  bay,  with  very  shallow  water  iill  around  it. 
except  in  the  northeast  part,  where  a  branch  enters,  bruiging  down 
muddy  water,  which  is  distinguished  flowing  down  the  principal  arm. 
Beyond  this  baj',  to  the  northeast,  the  inlet  is  in  general  about  half  a 
league  wide.  The  shores  on  both  sides  are  straight  and  compact;  a 
counter  tide,  or  strong  under-tow,  is  felt  here,  which  very  much  embar- 
rasses a  vessel. 

Salmon  Cove  is  twenty  miles  above  Point  Eamsden,  and  on  the  west- 
ern shore  of  Observatory  Inlet.  It  affords  good  anchorage  and  every  con- 
venience. Here  Vancouver's  vessel  remained  for  some  time  in  July,  1793, 
and  here  he  placed  his  observatory,  from  which  circumstance  the  name 
of  the  inlet  is  derived.  A  very  great  abundance  of  salmon  was  taken 
here,  up  a  very  fine  run  of  fresh  water  that  flows  into  the  cove ;  but  they 
were  small,  insipid,  of  a  very  inferior  kind,  partaking  iu  no  degree  of  the 
flavor  of  European  salmon. 

The  latitude  of  the  obser%^atory  was  deduced  as  55°  15'  31",  longitude, 
1310  3'  30" ;  variation,  2;jO  18'  east,  dip.  75°  51  J'.  High  Avater  at  1  hour 
8  minutes  after  the  moon  passes  the  meridian,  and  the  tide  generally  rose 
about  sixteen  feet. 

Beyond  Salmon  Cove  t^e  inlet  extends  fiAe  leagues  in  a  north  direc- 
tion, when  the  western  arm  terminates ;  and  tlie  eastern  arm  extends  ilie 
same  distance,  and  forms  the  mouth  of  the  Kiver  Simpson.  The  head  of 
Observatory  Inlet  is  much  indented  with  small  bays  and  coves,  and 
abounding  in  some  places  with  sunken  rocks. 

Portland  Canal  (so  named  from  the  noble  family  of  Bentinck) 
diverges  from  Point  Eamsden  in  a  north  by  west  one- half  west  direction 
for  about  five  miles ;  thence  it  bears  in  a  more  northerly  direction  five 
leagues  further,  and  then  trends  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  north,  termin- 
ating in  loAv  marshy' laud  in  latitude  55°  45',  seventy  miles  from  its 
entrance  in  Chatham's  Sound.  The  shores  of  this  inlet  are  nearly  straight, 
and  in  general  little  more  than  a  mile  asunder,  composed  mostly  of  high, 
rocky  cliffs,  covered  Avitli  piue  trees  to  a  considerable  height ;  but  the 
interior  country  is  a  compact  body  of  high,  barren  mountains,  covered 
with  snow.  As  the  surveying  party  ascended,  salmon  in  abundance  were 
leaping  in  all  directions.  Seals  and  sea-otters  were  also  seen  in  great 
numbers,  even  where  the  water  was  nearly  fresh,  which  Avas  the  cas^ 
upAvards  of  twenty  miles  from  its  termination. 

The  northern  shore  of  the  inlet,  between  Point  Wales  and  Point  Rams- 


■■..■'fS-p> 


Tp^i:^f'P!«»p^ff''5?w?wm!P^ 


¥»-' 


16 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


den,  is  formed  by  several  islands,  behind  which  a  channel  runs  parallel 
with  the  direction  of  the  main  inlet.  This  gradually  decreases  in  width 
southwestward,  continuing  thirteen  miles  from  its  northeast  entrance  to 
an  opening  to  the  southeast  into  the  main  channel!  Pursuing  the  same 
direction,  it  enters  much  broken  land,  intersected  by  arms,  forming  an 
island  about  ten  miles  in  circuit,  to  the  northeast  of  which  is  an  arm  run- 
ning in  a  northeast  direction,  ending  in  low,  steep,  rocky  shores.  The 
shores  form  many  little  bays  and  coves,  abounding  with  islets  and  rocks. 
An  immense  number  of  sea-otters,  and  some  few  seals,  were  here  seen  by 
Vancouver. 

At  seven  miles  a  little  to  the  north  of  west  from  Point  "Wales  is  the 
southwest  extremity  of  an  island,  from  whence  an  arm  extends  in  a  north 
three-quarter  west  direction,  terminating  in  a  fresh- water  brook,  in  lati- 
tude 54°  5G',  longitude  130°  40'.  Its  shores  are  nearly  straight  and  com- 
pact. A  league  within  the  entrance,  on  the  eastern  side,  are  three  small 
bjjys  or  coves  with  four  or  five  islets  before  them. 

The  southwest  shore,  composing  the  entrance  to  the  above  inlet,  is 
much  indented  with  small  bays,  and  bounded  by  innumerable  rocks,  and 
from  opposite  the  three  small  bays  or  coves  it  trends  to  the  southwest 
to  Cape  Fox,  so  named  from  the  statesman.  About  two  and  a  half  miles 
southeast  from  this  point  is  the  outermost  of  a  cluster  of  rocks  and 
islands,  extending  nearly  in  a  southwest  and  northeast  direction,  about 
half  a  league.  There  is  a  channel  between  them  and  the  cape.  About 
half  a  league  westward  from  Cape  Fox  is  a  very  commodious  and  well- 
sheltered  little  cove. 

Northwest  from  Cape  Fox,  on  a  small  island,  is  Fort  Tongas,  the  south- 
ernmost military  post  of  the  United  States  in  Alaska.  It  is  in  latitude 
54°  43'  north,  and  longitude  130°  42'  west. 

The  Portland  Caijal,  which  may  be  considered  to  terminate  here,  is  the 
boundary  between  Alaska  and  the  British  Possessions  on  the  North 
American  continent.  The  territory  we  have  just  described  is  only  fre- 
quented by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  officers  in  their  steam  vessel 
for  the  purposes  of  occasional  trade  with  the  natives.  The  Fijiirt^d  States 
territory  of  Alaska  to  the  northward  belonged  to  Eussia,  but  was  Itiised 
by  the  Eussian- American  Company  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  for 
trading  purposes.  One  of  the  most  important  features  of  this  region,  as 
yet  unknown  and  undeveloped,  is  the  extensive  inland  or  archipelago, 
named  Queen  Charlotte  Island,  which  is  imperfectly  described  as  follows : 

QUEEN  CHARLOTTE  ISLAND. 

This  laud  was  discovered  nearly  at  the  same  period  by  the  navigators 
of  two  nations.  La  Pi;rouse  made  the  outer  coast  on  August  10,  1786, 
and  followed  it  from  south  to  north,  for  fifty  leagues,  in  the  ensuing  ten 
days.  Captain  Lowrie,  in  the  Snow,  Captain  Cook  and  Captain  Guise, 
in  the  Experiment,  sailed  from  Nootka  on  July  27,  in  the  same  year,  and 
made  the  land  in  question  soon  afterwards,  though  the  day  itself  is  not 


( 


f.rr^''-'wr^.n^7,ni*^.rn-;r 


*■,t^t■.■^-■■^^■T^''■'••■ 


yy.  >f  -:,l-f^-^-yr 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


17 


i 


3  parallel 
ill  w^dtli 
trauce  to 
tlie  same 
rraliig  an 
arm  run - 
res.  The 
Lud  rocks. 
e  seen  by 

lies  is  the 
In  a  north 
)k,  in  lati- 
■  and  com- 
iree  small 

e  inlet,  is 
rocks,  and 
southwest 
half  miles 
rocks  and 
;ion,  about 
)e.  About 
8  and  well- 

the  south- 
in  latitude 

liere,  is  the 
the  North 
is  only  fre- 
eam  vessel 
iiA^d  States 
was  leased 
jmpany  for 
s  region,  as 
ichipelago, 
as  follows : 


navigators 
St  10,  1786, 
tiusuing  ten 
)tain  Guise, 
le  year,  and 
itself  is  not 


now  known.  Thus  the  honor  of  discovery  belongs  to  both  the  English 
and  French,  The  name  by  whidi  it  is  now  known  is  derived  from  the 
vessel  in  which  Captain  Dixon  made  it  in  the  year  following,  but  only 
assumed  that  it  was  an  island  from  conjecture,  as  it  was  not  proved  to 
be  such  till  Captain  Douglas,  in  the  Ii)higenia,  sailed  through  the  strait 
which  divides  it  from  the  continent  of  America.  It  has  also  been  called 
Washington  Island,  by  Ingraham.  Dixon's  Channel,  which  runs  in 
between  Queen  Charlotte  Island  and  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Archipejago, 
to  the  north  of  it,  was  discovered,  perhaps,  by  Ensign  Juan  Perez,  in 
1774.  It  was  next  seen  by  Dixon,  on  July  1,  1780,  though  ho  himself 
acknowledges  that  Captain  Douglas  was  the  first  who  sailed  through  it. 
He  then  sailed  nearly  round  the  island,  afterwards  repairing  to  Nootka. 
The  eastern  coast  of  the  island  was  also  examin«^d  and  traded  on  by 
Captain  Duncan,  in  the  Princess  Royal,  in  1787;  after  doing  so  he  pro- 
ceeded to  the  eastward  to  some  other  islands,  which  he  named  the  Princess 
Eoyal  Islands,  (which  have  been  before  described,)  bufcAvhich  have  been 
supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  archipelago  of  San  Lazaro  of  De  Fonta, 
prcAiousily  considered  to  be  apocryphal.  A  part  of  the  features  of  this 
latter  were  examined  by  Duncan,  and  he  aiichored  in  nineteen  of  its  har- 
bors, not  Avithout  being  fre(piently  exposed  to  the  danger  of  losing  his 
vessel,  but  he  was  indemnified  by  an  ample  trade  in  furs.  These  are  the 
Iirincipal  of  those  early  traders  who  have  made  us  acquainted  Avith  the 
existence  and  a  part  of  the  natural  features  of  this  large  and  fine  island. 
It  is  included  in  the  British  Possessions,  and  up  to  the  present  time  Ave 
are  A-ery  ignorant  of  its  actual  character  and  resources.  The  following 
accounts  are,  therefore,  necessarily  A^ery  imi)erfect. 

Dixon,  or  rather  Beresford,  Avhose  letters  form  part  of  the  account  of 
the  A'oyage,  says  :  "  There  is  CA'ery  reason  to  suppose,  not  only  from  the 
number  of  inlets  aa^o  met  with  on  coasting  along  the  shore,  but  from 
meeting  the  same  inhabitants  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  coast,  that  it 
is  not  one  continued  land,  but  rather  forms  a  group  of  islands.  The 
land  in  some  places  is  considerably  elcA'ated,  but  not  mountainous,  and 
is  totally  coA'cred  Avitli  pines,  Avhich  in  many  places  afford  a  pleasing  con- 
trast to  the  snow  that  perpetually  coA^ers  the  higher  grounds. 

"The  weather,  Avhile  aa'c  Avere  cruising  here,  was  generally  mild  and 
temperate,  (August,  1787,)  the  mean  of  the  thermometer  54P.  The  whole 
time  AA'c  coasted  along  from  Cloak  Bay  to  Cape  St.  James  the  AA'ind  Avas 
generally  steady  at  nortliAvest  and  west-northwest;  but  no  sooner  had 
we  doubled  the  cape  and  got  to  the  northeast  side  of  the  land,  than  avc 
fell  in  with  light  variable  Avinds  and  intervening  calms. 

"The  number  of  people  Ave  saw  during  the  Avliole  of  our  traflic  was* 
about  eight  hundred  and  fifty ;  and  if  w^e  suppose  an  equal  number  to  be 
left  on  shore,  it  Avill  amount  to  seA'eiiteen  hundred  inhabitants,  Avhich  I 
haA'e  reason  to  think  aaIU  be  found  the  extreme  number  of  people  inhab- 
iting these  islands,  including  Avomen  and  children.  The  great  plenty  of 
furs  we  met  with  here  sufticiently  indicated  that  these  people  haA'^e  had 
2  AD 


!!?99Bnai 


18 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


f    ; 


i 


!!i 


■A  f; 


no  intercourse  whatever  witli  any  civilized  nation  ;  and  I  doubt  not  but 
we  may  justly  claim  the  honor  of  adding  these  islands  to  the  geography 
of  this  part  of  the  coast.  The  ornaments  seen  among  them  were  very 
few  J  and  it  is  pr'^bable  that  their  knives  and  spears  have  been  obtained 
by  war  rather  than  traffic,  as  there  seems  to  be  a  universal  variance 
among  the  various  tribes ;  however,  be  all  this  as  it  may,  they  undoubt- 
edly approach  much  nearer  to  a  state  of  savage  brutality  than  any 
Indians  we  have  seen  on  the  coast. 

"  The  women  distort  tlie  under  lip  in  the  same  manner  with  those  at 
Norfolk  Sound,*  (Sitka,)  but  with  this  difference,  that  here  this  wooden 
ornament  (labret)  seems  to  be  worn  by  either  sex  indiscriminately, 
whereas  at  Norfolk  Sound  it  is  contined  to  those  of  superior  rank." 

Queen  Charlotte  Island,  according  to  the  running  survey  made  of  its 
outer  coast  by  Vancouver,  in  1794,  which  must  be  taken  as  nearly  correct, 
is  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length  in  a  north-northwest  and 
south-southeast  direction.  Its  greatest  breadth,  at  the  north  extremity, 
is  about  sixty  miles,  from  which  it  gradually  diminishes  towards  Capo 
St.  James,  its  south  extreme. 

Cape  St.  James  is  in  latitude  51°  58'  north,  longitude  131°  2'  west. 
From  the  cape  some  rocks  and  rocky  islets  extend  between  the  directions 
of  south-southeast  and  southeast  by  south,  at  the  distance  of  about  a 
league ;  though  Mr.  Gray,  in  the  Columbia,  informed  Vancouver  that  he 
had  struck  and  received  some  material  damage  upon  a  sunken  rock, 
which  he  represented  as  lying  at  a  much  greater  distance,  thougi'  nearly 
in  the  same  line  of  direction.  The  cape  was  so  named  by  Mr.  Dixon 
from  the  common  circumstance  of  the  saint's  day  on  which  it  was  first 
seen.  About  it  the  land  is  very  moderately  elevated ;  but,  like  that  on 
the  northern  part  of  the  island,  it  rises  gradually  to  rugged  and  imeven 
moiuitains,  which  occupy  the  center  of  the  country,  descending  towards 
its  extremities  to  a  less  height,  and  is  of  a  more  uniform  appearance. 

Ibbertson's  Sound,  an  inlet  running  to  the  northward,  is  placed 
thirty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Cai>e  St.  James  in  Dixon's  chart,  but 
he  gives  no  particulars  of  it.  The  weather  Avas  foggy  here  during  his 
cruise  off  the  coast,  but  he  had  many  interviews  with  the  natives  all 
along. 

Cape  Henry,  which  is  twenty-four  leagues  from  Cape  St.  James,  is 
in  latitude  52°  53'  north,  longitude  132°  25'.  It  is  a  conspicuous  project- 
ing cape,  and  forms  the  south  point  of  a  deep  bay  or  somid,  the  shores 
of  which  are  apparently  much  broken,  to  which  Vancouver  gave  the 
name  of  Englefleld  Bay,  after  his  much-esteemed  friend,  Sir  Henry 
Englefleld.  Its  north  point  of  entrance,  lying  from  Cape  Henry  north 
27°  west,  at  the  distance  of  seven  leagues,  Avas  named  Point  Buck ;  which 
also  forms  the  south  point  of  entrance  into  a  sound  falling  deep  back  to 
the  eastAvard,  named  by  Vancouver  CartA\'right's  Sound.    Its  north  point 


high, 


;    purcliil 


See  Dixon's  Voyage,  pp.  224, 225. 


)^-j^'i^- 


J 


^!lillflf!iJ!fpi>*'\'i"mm^'^'*)^^ 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


19 


not  but 
ography 
ere  very 
)btiiined 
variance 
mdoubt- 
lan  any 

those  at 
}  wooden 
ninately, 
Ilk." 

ide  of  its 
y  correct, 
iwest  and 
xtroinity, 
rds  Capo 

3  2'  west, 
ilirectious 
»f  about  a 
er  that  he 
ken  rock, 
igiv  nearly 
VIr.  Dixon 
it  was  first 
ke  that  on 
nd  uneven 
ig  towards 
?arance. 
is  placed 
chart,  but 
during  his 
natives  all 

t.  James,  is 
3US  project- 
,  the  shores 
>r  gave  the 
Sir  Henry 
lenry  north 
uck;  which 
leep  back  to 
i  north  point 


of  entrance,  Point  Hunter,  lies  from  Point  Buck  north  25°  west,  distant 
ten  miles,  and  a  little  within  this  line  of  direction  is  an  island  near  the 
northern  shore. 

Kennell's  Sound,  so  named  by  Captain  Dixon,  appears  to  be  very 
extensive,  and  takes  an  easterly  direction  to  the  northward  of  Point 
Hunter,  Its  entrance,  according  to  the  observations  of  Vancouver,  is 
in  i atitude  5^°  28'  north,  longitude  132"^  49'  west.  The  land  Jippears  much 
broken,  and  the  coast  composed  of  steep  mountainous  precipices,  divided 
from  each  other  by  water.  Tliose  gradually  decrease  in  height  towards 
the  north  extremity  of  the  island,  to  which  point  the  shore  is  more  or 
less  lined  with  scattered  islets  and  rocks,  at  a  small  distance  from  the 
land. 

Hipp  All  ISLiiND  lies  north  32°  west,  fifteen  and  a  half  leagues  from 
Point  Hunter,  and  forms  the  northern  limit  of  Kennell's  Sound.  It  is  a 
high,  steep,  cliffy  hill,  ending  in  a  low  projecting  point,  to  the  northeast 
of  which  lie  some  breakers,  tliough  at  no  great  distance.  The  island  was 
thus  named  by  Dixon,*  from  its  being  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of  Indians 
who  had  fortified  themselves  precisely  in  the  manner  of  a  hippah  (e-pah) 
of  the  New  Zealanders.    It  is  in  latitude  53°  33',  longitude  133°  7'. 

Point  Frederick  lies  north  17°  west,  2G  miles  from  Hippah  Island, 
and  is  the  west  extremity  of  a  projecting  land,  appearing  like  two  islands; 
it  is  about  twenty-two  miles  south  14°  west  from  Point  North,  the 
northwest  extreme  of  Queen  Cliarlotte  Island ;  between  it  and  Hii)pah 
Island  is  C  lonard  Bay,  but  we  have  no  particulars  of  it. 

The  northwest  noint  of  the  principal  portion  of  these  islands  is  named 
in  the  Spanish  charts  Cape  Florida  Blanca,  and  near  to  it  is  Cape  Santa 
Margarita. 

Cloak  Bay  lies  to  the  southward  of  North  Island.  It  was  so  named 
by  Dixon  from  tlie  number  of  fur  cloaks  (principally  of  sea-otter  skins) 
purchased  from  the  natives  here.  Dixon  says,  "  There  appealed  to  be 
an  excellent  harbor,  well  landlocked,  about  a  league  ahead ;  we  found 
soundings  from  ten  to  twent-ftve  fathoms  water,  over  a  ro^ky  bottom ; 
but  unluckily  could  not  reach  it,  from  the  contrary  wind  and  strong  tide." 
(P.  200.) 

Langara  Island  forms  the  northwest  extremity  of  the  group,  and 
North  Point,  its  outer  end,  is  in  latitude  54° 20',  longitude  133°  11'.  The 
coast  hero  turns  to  the  eastward,  continuing  so,  irregularly,  for  about 
sixty-five  miles,  to  Point  Ymbisible,  or  Rose,  having  in  the  interval  Port 
Masaredo,  JMcIntyre's  Bay,  and  Port  Estrada.  That  these  exist,  and 
probably  many  other  places  of  shelter,  is  the  whole  amount  of  our 
knowledge. 

Of  the  eastern  side  of  the  islands  we  have  only  the  representations  of 
Mr.  Duncan  and  other  early  navigators.  At  thirty-five  miles  from  the  north- 
east point  an  extensive  opening  is  marked,  called  TroUope's  Biver.  In 
some  of  the  charts,  as  in  that  of  Meares,  this  opening  is  made  to  communi- 


Voyage,  p.  206. 


\ 


20 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


cate  with  Eennell's  Sound  on  the  woHteru  shore,  tliiis  separating  the  land 
into  two  liiij^er  i.shmds  at  letist.  This  is  more  tlum  probable,  from  what 
has  been  said  in  the  former  part  of  the  descrii)tion,  and  is  exactly 
analogous  to  the  formation  of  the  Sitka  Archipelago,  the  assumption  of 
which  was  formed  from  similar  facts,  that  the  same  individuals  of  the 
native  tribes  were  seen  by  the  traders,  Dixon  and  others,  on  both  sides 
of  the  group  at  ditt'erent  times.  On  the  coast  southward  of  this  there  is 
a  settlement  called  Skidegats. 

At  four  leagues  from  the  south  extremity  of  Cape  St.  James  is  Rose's 
Harbor,  or  Bay  de  Lujan  of  the  Spaniards;  it  appears  to  be  embarrassed 
with  rocks,  on  its  south  side  especially. 

Dixon's  Channel  is  the  strait  sei)arating  the  Queen  Charlotte  Archi- 
pelago from  the  islands  fronting  the  continental  shore.  As  stated  pre- 
viously, its  northern  entrauc<}  was  iirst  seen  by  Perez,  in  1774,  and  there- 
fore ought,  perhaps,  to  be  called  by  his  name.  Captain  Douglas,  in  the 
Iphigenia,  also  was  the  first  who  passed  through  it,  and  he  too  has  some 
claim  to  its  designation,  lint  Captain  Dixon,  who  was  the  principal 
oflQcer  of  these  expeditions,  has  the  priority  of  discovery,  except  that  of 
the  Spaniards,  as  above  mentioned. 

The  following  observations  on  it  are  by  Captain  Douglas,  its  first  ex- 
plorer : 

"  Ships  which  arrive  early  on  the  coast,  where  they  juust  expect  to 
meet  with  heavy  gales  of  wind,  w  ill  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  make  the 
south  end  of  Queeu  Charlotte  Island,  and  to  enter  the  straits  in  the  lati- 
tude of  52°  and  longitude  of  13U°30',  when  they  will  find  shelter  either 
in  the  island  or  in  the  continent.  It  may  also  be  added  that,  as  ships 
which  are  returning  iiom  the  north  at  a  late  period  of  the  season  are 
liable  to  be  blown  oil'  the  coast,  it  would  be  advisable  for  them  to  make 
Douglas  Island  and  enter  the  straitsiu  the  latitude  of  54°  ;30',  where  they 
will  find  good  anchorage,  as  well  as  inhabitants,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island.  On  the  continent  they  will  have  also  the  advantage  of  Port 
Meares  and  Sea  Otter  Sound,  besides  several  other  bays  which  have  not 
yet  been  explored,  between  50°  and  o4P  north  latitude.* 


CHAPTEE  II. 

COAST  OF  ALASIO.  FROM  PORTLAND  CANAL  TO  COOK'S  INLET. 

The  whole  of  the  American  coast  north  of  latitude  54P  40'  is  comprised 
in  the  Territory  of  Alaska. 

The  Eussian- American  Company  which  had  this  Territory  under  col- 
onization was  established  under  charter  from  the  Emperor  Paul,  July  8, 
1799;  and  the  extensive  territory  in  question  was  granted  to  them  to 

*  Douglas,  in  Meatus,  p.  S32. 


OCCU|i 

and  tl 
latter 
tensio 
count 
and  h 
tude  c 
veninj 
had  pi 
that  n 
530.    ] 
by  ]io,« 
jealous 
Englai 
forme* 
of  laui 
before 
Notv 
able  s 
Stikiuf 
cedure 
gating 
across 
Britisli 
after  n 
couipai 
Hudsoi 
the  coi 
from  o- 
the  am 
pany. 
The 
1  by  the 
I  By  its  i 
I  subject 
I  lishme 
I  in  latiti 
I  nortliw 
then  n( 
the  coa 
shall  n 
I  establis 
\  claime( 
[  shall  b( 
[the  Ian 
|oi)en  ft 
■^thesan 


.ffr-'Vi^- 


ALASKA    DIRKCTORY. 


21 


he  land 
111  what 
exactly 
ptioii  of 
s  of  the 
th  sides 
there  is 

s  Kose's 
iriassed 

e  Archi- 
itcd  pre- 
id  there- 
ls,  ill  the 
iias  some 
piincipal 
)t  that  of 

3  first  ex- 
expect  to 
make  the 
1  the  lati- 
ter  either 
,  as  ships 
easou  are 
I  to  malio 
here  they 
ide  of  the 
j  of  Port 
have  not 


[LET. 
comprised 

under  col- 
ul,  July  8, 
0  them  to 


occupy  and  hring  under  the  dominion  of  Itnssia.  The  Knssian  ('onii)iiny 
and  the  Hudson's  liiiy  Company  wiM<'  tlins  l)roiiji;ht  into  collision,  and  the 
latter  experienced  considerable  loss  in  their  endeavors  to  prevent  this  ex- 
tension of  Knssian  power.  Bnt  in  Jnsti(!e  to  Russia  it  nuist  b(^  said  that  no 
country  had  a  better  claim  to  the  territory ;  for  as  early  as  1741  Hehrin};, 
and  his  companion  Tschirikojl',  had  touched  on  the  (!ontinent  in  the  lati- 
tud(^  of  njP  and  50°  respe(;tively;  the  fornu'r  seeinp:  much  of  the  inter- 
vening countries,  too,  on  his  return ;  ami  by  ITd.'J  many  other  adventurers 
had  piMietrated  eastward  as  far  as  Kodiak — and  it  must  be  remembered 
that  no  other  nation  claims  to  have  penetrated  further  north  than  latitude 
53°.  In  addition  to  this,  Kussia  had  as  gradually  improved  h(>r  knowledge 
by  possession  as  these  discoveries  advanced,  and  this,  too,  not  from  any 
Jealousy  of  other  ])owers  iiih'rfering,  as  was  the  case  between  Mi)ain, 
England,  and  Fran(;e,  to  the  south.  Thus  the  settlement  at  Kodiak  was 
formed  four  years  before  Meares  i)urchased,  or  said  he  did  so,  his  tract 
of  land  in  Nootka  Sound,  and  Sitka  was  founded  ten  or  twelve  years 
bef(n-e  Astoria  was. 

Notwithstanding  this,  the  Hudson's  T>ay  Company  expended  consider- 
able sums  in  the  establishment  of  trading  i)osts  on  the  large  river 
Stikine,  in  latitude  ;"»(!°  20'.  The  Kussiaus  resented  by  force  this  pro- 
cedui-e  of  the  c()m])any,  although  Englaml  claimed  the  privilege  of  navi- 
gating the  rivers  flowing  from  the  interior  of  the  continent  to  the  Pacific, 
across  the  line  of  boundary  established  under  the  treaty  of  1825.  The 
British  government  recpiired  redress  for  this  infraction  of  the  treaty;  and, 
after  negotiation  between  the  two  governments  and  the  two  <;hartered 
companies,  it  was  agreed,  in  1S30,  that  from  the  1st  of  June,  1840,  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  should  enjoy  for  ten  years  the  exclusive  use  of 
the  continent  assigned  to  llussia  by  Mr.  Canning  in  1825,  and  extending 
from  54°  4(K  north  to  Cape  Spencer,  near  58°  west,  in  consideration  of 
the  annual  payment  of  2,000  otter  slcins  to  the  llussian-Ameri(uin  Com- 
pany. 

The  boundary  between  the  Russian  and  English  possessions  was  fixed 
by  the  convention  agreed  to  by  the  respective  powers,  February  28, 1825. 
By  its  articles  the  trade  is  open  to  both  nations  in  the  Pacific;  that 
subjects  of  other  powers  shall  not  land  without  permission  at  the  estab- 
lishments of  either  respectively.  The  boundary  is  fixed  as  commencing 
in  latitude  54°  40'  north,  between  longitude  131°  and  133°  west,  running 
northward  along  the  Portland  Canal  as  far  as  the  parallel  of  5'^°  north; 
then  northwestward  along  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  parallel  with 
the  coast,  to  the  meridian  of  141°  west,  always  provided  that  this  line 
shall  not  exceed  the  distance  of  thirty  miles  from  the  coast;  that  no 
establishments  shall  be  formed  by  either  party  within  the  limits  of  that 
,  claimed  by  the  other;  that  all  streams  or  rivers  in  the  Russian  territory 
shall  be  opened  for  navigation  to  the  British,  either  from  the  ocean  or 
the  land;  that  the  trade  of  Sitka  (except  in  spirituous  li<piors)  should  be 
open  for  ten  years;  that  vessels  taking  shelter  from  distress  shall  pay 
ithe  same  dues  as  national  vessels,  unless  she  disposes  of  any  of  her  cargo. 


22 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


TIhi  cliiirtcr  of  Uu»  Russian-American  Company,  pfranti  <1  in  1709,  was 
roncwcd  in  18,J9,  when  they  had  thirty-six  hunting  and  llshing  estublish- 
niunts. 

Sitka,  or  New  Archanj?*'!,  totmded  in  1805,  was  their  chief  i)()st,  and 
here  all  the  business  of  the  comimny  centered.  Subordinate  to  it  there 
was  a  smaller  establishment  of  a  similar  kind  at  Aliaska,  which  supplied 
one  post  in  Jiristol  liay,  and  three  posts  in  ('ook's  lidet,  all  conne{5ted 
with  minor  stations  in  the  interior.  Another  station  in  Norton  Sound 
had  its  own  inland  dependencies. 

The  whole  of  tlie  territory  was  divided  into  six  a}>:encies,  each  controlled 
by  the  governor  general.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Kurile  and  Aleutian 
Islands,  and  those  of  the  large  island  of  Kodiak,  were  regarded  as  the 
immediate  subjects  of  the  Russian  Company,  in  whose  service  every  man 
between  eighteen  and  tifty  might  be  recpiired  to  pass  at  least  three  years. 

The  natives  of  the  country  adjacent  to  Cook's  Inlet  and  J'rince  Wil- 
liam's Sound  also  paid  a  tax  to  the  company,  in  fn  ;  and  skins.  The 
othor  aborigines  in  the  Russian  territory  were  not ;  >wed  to  trade  with 
any  people  but  those  of  the  Russian  company. 

In  1830  the  number  of  Russians  in  tlu^  territory  of  the  company  was 
730;  of  native  subjects,  1,442  (Creoles;  and  about  11,000  aborigines  ot  the 
Kurile,  Aleutian,  and  Kodiak  Islands. 

At  the  time  of  Sir  G-eorge  Simpson's  visit  to  Sitka,  in  1842,  the  returns 
oT  the  trade,  he  says,  were  nearly  as  follows:  10,000  fur  senls,  1,000  sea- 
otters,  12,000  beavers,  2,500  land-otters,  foxes,  martins,  &c.,  and  20,000 
sea-horse  teeth. 

The  character  of  the  country,  and  its  trade,  «&c.,  will  be  gathered 
from  the  previous  remarks  and  the  subsequent  descriptions.  These  are 
not  always  perfect.  A  portion  of  the  interior  sounds  were  explored 
and  surveyed  by  Vancouver^  doubtless  with  his  usual  accuracy ;  but  of 
course  this  occurred  before  it  was  colonized  by  the  Russian  company. 

The  Portland  Canal,  forming  the  boundary,  has  been  described 
before.     Cape  Fox  forms  the  northwest  point  of  the  approaches  to  it.* 

From  Cape  Fox  the  coast  takes  a  rounding  direction  northwest  by 
west  four  miles,  and  then  north  by  west  one-quarter  west,  near  seven  miles 
further,  to  a  projecting  jioint  called  Foggy  Cape,  the  coast  being  very 
rocky  and  dangerous. 

North  of  Foggy  Cape  is  a  large  b.iy  filled  with  a  labyrinth  of  small 
islands,  rocks,  and  shoals,  the  north  westernmost  and  largest  being  north 
by  west  three-quarters,  west  nearly  a  league  <listaut. 

Cape  Fox  on  the  east,  and  Cape  Northumberland  on  the  west,  bearing 


■  *  Northwest  from  Capo  Fox  is  Fort  Tongas.  Fort  Tongas  Channel  is  veiy  naiTow  and 
tortuous,  and  accessible  only  to  steamers.  The  bottom  is  rocky,  and  tlie  depth  of  water 
fifteen  fathoms  close  to  the  rocks.  The  fort  is  on  an  ishjiul  surroiuided  by  ugly  reefs. 
The  yarrisou  consists  of  one  company  of  United  States  infantry.  There  are  about  three 
hundred  Indians  on  the  island.  The  wattsr  is  very  deep,  the  auohora'go  is  very  had, 
and  there  are  poor  facilities  for  i)rocuring  wood  and  Avater. 


■>Hw. 


ALASKA.   DIRECTOKY. 


23 


east  by  south  and  wost  by  north,  fivn  hsif^uoH  apart,  form  tho  southoni 
entrance  to  the  ('anal  i\e  Uevilhi  Oigodo,  of  Heilor  Caamano,  or,  an  now 
cnlh'd,  TonpiH  NariowH. 

Four  inih'H  to  tlie  northwanl  of  thc^  island  above  mentioned  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Boca  de  Quadra,  \vhi<!h  is  almost  rendered  ina<!(rcssible 
by  islets  and  rocks.  The  inl(>,t  first  takes  a  direcition  of  northeast  one- 
half  east  to  a  point  seven  miles  within  the  entrance,  whence  the  shores 
become  less  elevated  and  the  iidct  takes  a  south-soutlu  ast  direction,  and 
is  liere  about  two  miles  in  width  for  a  distance  of  four  miles  from  the 
point.  On  the  south  shore  above  this  are  three  inconsiderable  rocky 
inlets,  from  the  northeast  of  which  tlu?  main  branch,  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  wide,  takes  a  direction  of  north-northeast  one-(piarter  east  for 
four  and  a  half  leagues  to  its  head,  in  latitude  55°  9',  a  snuill  border 
of  low  land,  thr(nij?h  which  How  two  rivulets.  The  sides  of  this  canal 
are  nearly  straight,  tlrm  and  compact,  composed  of  high,  steep,  rocky 
cliffs  covered  with  wood. 

Near  the  entran<!e,  in  the  Canal  de  Eevilla  (ligedo,  (Tongas  Narrows,)  is 
an  islet  called  by  Vancouver  Slate  Islet,  a  prodigious  mass  of  stone 
differing  from  any  other  about  here.  North  three-rpiarters  west  four 
miles  from  this  is  Point  Sykes,  atul  northwest  one-cpiai  ter  west  ttve  miles 
is  Point  Alava,  between  Avhich  points  is  the  entrance  to  Behm's  Canal. 

Behm's  Canal  (so  named  after  Major  Behm)  is  one  of  those  extensive 
and  singular  arms  which  abound  on  tliis  forbidding  and  inhospitable 
coast.  It  runs  northward  fifty-ftve  miles,  then  westwardly.  and  south- 
wardly, encircling  the  large  island  of  Revilla  Gigedo,  and  this  is  sepa- 
rated on  the  southwest,  by  the  strait  of  the  same  name,  from  the  Island 
de  Gravina. 

From  Point  Sykes,  the  southeast  point  of  the  entrance,  the  soutb 
shore  runs  northeast  three-quarters  north  ten  n)iles  to  Point  Nelson,  tlie 
inlet  being  from  two  to  four  miles  wide.  Eastward  of  Point  Nelson  an 
iidet  takes  an  east  and  northeast  direction  for  ten  miles,  terminating  in 
the  usual  manner.  The  surrounding  country  consists  of  a  huge  mass  of 
steei),  barren,  rocky  mountains,  destitute  of  soil,  the  summits  covered 
with  i)erpetual  snow;  the  shores  are  nearlj- perpendicular  cliffs  rising 
from  the  water's  edge.  The  northeast  point  of  this  inlet  is  Point  Trol- 
lope,  four  and  a  half  miles  froul  Point  Nelson.  Li  this  part  of  the  canal 
are  several  islands,  which  separate  it  into  different  navigable  channels. 
Northward  of  Point  TroUope  are  two  long  narrow  islands,  on  the  east 
side,  forming  a  narrow  channel  seven  miles  long  inside  of  them.  Off' 
the  northwest  i)oint  of  the  northernmost  of  these,  bearing  north-north- 
west, nearly  a  league  distant,  is  a  very  remarkable  rock,  named  by  Van- 
couver the  New  Eddystone,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  celebrated  light- 
house and  rock.  Its  circumference  at  its  base  is  about  fifty  yards,  stand- 
ing perpendicidarly  on  a  surface  of  fine  «lark-colored  sand.  Its  surface 
is  uneven,  and  its  diameter  rej^ularly  decreases  to  a  few  feet  at  its  apex. 
Its  height  was  found  to  be  above  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  latitude 


..f'^-' 


•''»!y^WMpp!^i^,iw?jy^'fim!,  ..i^iijmfmW!^'^^^- 


24 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


550  29'.  Except  the  bed  of  sand  ou  wliicli  it  stands,  aud  a  ledge  of 
rocks  to  tlie  uortli,  visible  only  at  11  low  tide,  tlie  suiTouiidiug-  depths  are 
uiifathoinable. 

On  the  east  shore  of  the  canal,  a  leagne  above  the  New  Eddystciie,  is 
an  nnimportant  arm,  two  leagues  in  depth,  terminating  in  two  c  es, 
and  winding  between  an  immense  body  of  high,  barren,  snowy  moun- 
tains. The  coast  beyond  this  is  straight  and  compact,  trending  north 
one-half  west  nine  miles  to  Walker's  Cove,  an  inlet  extending  two 
leagues  east-northeast  through  rocky,  barren  precipices  to  a  nuirshy  ter- 
mination. 

Tiie  main  inlet  extends  in  a  northwest  by  north  direction  from  Wal- 
ker s  Cove.  The  water  is  of  a  very  light  color,  not  very  salt,  and  the 
interior  country,  on  the  island  of  Eevilla  Gigedo,  rises  into  rugged  moun- 
tains little  inferior  in  ht-ightto  those  on  the  eastern  side;  there  is  a  clus- 
ter of  rocks  a  mile  in  extent  on  the  east  shore,  to  the  northward  of  the 
cove  and  tne  shores  of  the  canal,  which  are  nowhere  more  than  two 
miles  asunder,  and  afford  some  small  bays  and  coves.  Proceeding 
northward,  the  canal  takes  a  more  westerly  direction  to  Fitzgibbon 
Point,  on  the  eastside,  in  latitude  55°  oG' ;  and  the  opposite  point  on  the 
island  is  called  Point  Whaley. 

BiKiiouGH'8  Bay  extends  northeast  from  Point  Fitzgibbon  about 
two  leagues,  where  it  is  terminated  by  low  land,  through  which  three  or 
four  small  rivulets  appear  to  flow  over  a  bank  of  mud  stretching  from 
the  head  of  the  arm,  and  reaching  from  side  ^0  side,  on  which  was 
lodged  a  quantity  of  drift-wood.  Wiien  Vancouver  was  here,  August 
11, 179;},  he  found  the  water  perfectly  fresli,  and  the  whole  su'  lace  of  the 
bay  strewed  over  with  salmon,  either  dead  or  in  the  last  stages  of  exist- 
ence. They  were  all  small,  of  one  sort,  and  called  by  him  hunch-backed 
salmon,  from  a  sort  of  excresence  risiiig  along  the  backs  of  the  male 
fish.  The  mouths  of  both  tish  were  formed  into  a  sort  of  hook,  resemb- 
ling the  u})per  nuuidible  of  a  hawk;  they  had  little  of  the  color  and 
none  of  the  flavor  of  salmon,  and  were  very  indifferent  and  insipid  food. 
In  all  parts  of  the  inlet,  particularly  in  the  arms,  and  in  every  run  of 
fresh  Avater,  vast  numbers  of  these  tish  were  seen,  but  all  in  a  sickly 
condition.  If  any  just  conclusion  could  be  drawn  from  the  inunense 
numbers  found  dead,  not  only  in  the  water  but  lodged  on  the  shores 
below  high-water  mark,  it  would  seem  that  their  death  takes  place 
immediately  after  spawning,  tor  the  purpose  of  v.hich  they  ascend  these 
mlets. 

From  the  mouth  of  Burrough's  Bay  the  main  inlet  takes  an  irregular 
southwest  three-quar<^«'rs  west  direction,  to  a  point  on  the  north  sliore, 
four  miles  from  Point  AVhaley,  named  Point  Lees.  Here  the  channel 
decreases  in  width  to  less  than  a  mile,  and  the  water  gradually  assumes 
a  darker  color.  Beyond  Point  Lees  the  north  shore  of  the  principal 
channel  is  formed  by  Bell's  Island,  which  is  about  two  leagues  long  in  a 
northeast  and  southwest  direction.     Behind  this  island  is  a  channel 


*.■'' 


If 


-"*.. 


■"^arm"-' 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


25 


with  steep  rocky  shores,  covered  with  pine  trees,  of  irregular  width,  in 
some  phices  lot  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  on  the  north  siOe  of 
which  are  these  unimportant  arms. 

The  point  an  the  south  shore,  beyond  the  west  point  of  Bell's  Island, 
is  in  latitude  55°  50',  longitude  130°  41',  (Vancouver,  vol.  ii,  p.  357 ;)  and 
here  the  channel  turnt  iharp  to  the  south  and  Avidens  in  that  direction. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  canal  is  an  inlet  extending  in  a  northwest 
one-half  wp'it  direction  about  four  miles,  containing  several  sunken  rocks ; 
and  on  a  bay  on  the  northeast  shore  the  remains  of  a  considerable  Indian 
village  were  fonni^,  overrun  with  shrubs,  among  which  a  small- i'ruited 
crab  was  in  great  abundance. 

South  of  this  inlet  is  a  large  bay  termiiniting  in  a  sandy  beach  nearly 
all  round,  itsshore^-'jeing  very  moderately  elevated  and  thickly  wooded. 
Off  its  southeas:  point  is  An  island,  but  no  channel  inside  it.  The 
interior  coiuitry  is  not  verj"  high,  particularly  westwaid,  where  a  low 
wooded  country  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

Poet  Stewart,  named  after  one  of  the  mates  of  Vancouver's  ship, 
is  to  the  southward  of  this.  Its  south  point  of  entrance  is  in  latitutle 
55°  38'  15"  north,  longitude  131°  17'  west;  variation,  28°  30'  east,  (1703.) 
Here  Vancouver  remaim^d  with  his  vessel  in  August  and  Sei>toinber, 
1793.  He  found  it  asnmll  but  convenient  bay,  secured,  by  several  islets 
before  it,  from  the  wind  in  all  directions.  Great  plenty  of  excellent 
Atater  was  found  close  at  hand;  the  shores  of  moderate  height,  and 
covered  Avith  pine  trees,  berry  bushes,  and  other  shrubs. 

It  is  formed,  as  before  stated,  l)y  a  bay  in  the  land,  having  several 
islets  and  rocks  lying  before  it;  witliin  these,  from  the  south  point  of  its 
entrance,  it  takes  a  course  of  north-northwest  one-half  west,  about  half  a 
league  in  length  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  In  this  space 
it  affords  good  and  secure  anchorage,  from  four  to  eighteen  fathoms  of 
water,  good  holding  grouiul.  The  comuuinication  with  the  shore  is 
easy,  and  wood  and  water  nuiy  be  conveniently  procured  in  the  greatest 
abundance.  Toward  its  head  are  two  very  siuig  coves  or  basins,  one  of 
which  is  a  continuation  of  the  port,  the  other  formed  hy  an  indent  ,in 
the  land;  the  soundings  are  from  six  to  nine  fathoms,  admitting  of  a 
navigable  though  narrow  channel  into  tluMu.  There  are  passages  in 
several  directions  between  the  islets  lying  before  the  harbor,  but  they 
are  not  very  safe,  in  consequen(re  of  several  rocks  between  and  about 
their  shores,  visible  only  at  low  tide.  The  best  passage  into  Port 
Stewart  is  between  the  southernmost  isle  and  the  nuiin  land;  this  is 
l)erfectly  free  from  any  obstrnetion,  with  soundings  from  four  fathoms 
at  the  side  to  eleven  fathoms  in  the  middle. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  canal,  southward  of  the  point  where  it 
assumes  a  80utl;erly  direetiori,  is  much  broken,  and  intersected  with 
arms ;  and  opposite  to  Port  Stewart  is  a  cove  near  which  Vancouver 
was  attiicke'i  by  the  Indians,  in  which  two  of  his  men  were  severely 


II 


26 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


wounded;  hence  he  called  it  Traitor's  Cove,  and  a  point  to  the  south,  on 
which  he  landed,  in  latitude  55°  37'^  Escape  Point. 

Cape  Caamano  is  the  south  point  of  the  peninsula,  dividing  the  arm 
from  Clarence  Strait.  It  is  in  latitude  55°  29',  longitude  131°  54'.  It 
was  so  called  after  the  Spanish  commander  who  first  delineated  (though 
imiierfectly)  these  shores. 

On  the  oi)po8ite  side  of  the  channel,  the  westernmost  point  of  the  isl- 
and of  Revilla  Gigedo  is  called  Point  Higgins,  after  the  then  President 
of  Chili,  Senor  Higgins  de  Vallenar,  and  tliis  latter  name  is  applied  to 
the  north  point  of  the  Island  Gravina,  south  three-quarters  west  two 
miles  from  Point  Higgins.  From  Point  V^alleuar  lies  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
parts  of  which  are  only  visible  at  low  tide.  This  ledge  nearly  joins  on 
to  two  small  islands  oft'  the  point. 

Beaton's  Island  lies  to  the  northward  o,f  Poinl  Higgins,  against  the 
eastern  coast.  On  its  northwestern  side  are  sev(iral  dangerous  rocks, 
lying  half  a  mile  from  its  shore ;  and  between  it  and  the  eastern  shore 
are  several  snmller  islands. 

Tongas  Karbows,  or  the  Canal  de  Eevilla  Gigedo  of  Sefior 
Caamano,  separates,  as  before  stated,  the  island  or  rather  islands  of 
Gravina  from  the  island  of  its  iiauiG  and  the  mainland.  It  runs  south- 
east from  between  Points  Higgins  and  Vallenar  to  between  Foggy  and 
Northumberland  Capes,  described  previously.  It  was  not  explored  by 
Vancouver,  and  is  apparently  badly  represented  in  the  Spanish  chart. 
There  is  a  good  channel  all  the  way  through,  but  it  requires  a  pilot,  as 
there  are  some  dangerous  rocks. 

Duke  of  Clarence's  Stra.t  separates  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Archi- 
pelago on  the  west  from  the  islands  we  have  been  describing  on  the 
south,  and  from  the  Duke  of  York's  and  other  islands  northward,  and  is 
probably  the  opening  distinguished  in  Caamano's  chart  as  the  "  Estre- 
cho  del  Almirante  Fuentes,  7  Entrada  de  liifostra  Senor  del  Carmin."* 

Cape  Northumberland  is  the  southernmost  pointx)f  the  Islands  de 
Gravina.  Off  Cape  Northumberland  are  several  clusters  of  rocks,  the 
bearings  of  the  principal  of  which,  from  a  tolerably  high  round  island 
lyhig  south  from  the  cape,  are  as  follows:  The  outermost  to  the  north- 
west, northwest  by  west  three  and  a  half  miles ;  the  south westerinnost, 
west-southwest  four  and  a  half  miles ;  the  southernmost,  Avhich  are  the 
most  distant,  south  six  and  ;i  half  miles ;  and  the  southeasternmost, 
southeast  one-half  east  five  miles  distant.  Within  some  of  these  the 
intermediate  spaces  are  occupied  by  an  immense  number  of  rocks  and 
breakers.  The  southernmost  is  a  round  lump  of  barren  rock,  always 
above  water,  with  some  breakers  a  short  distance  from  its  southeast 
side.  Northeast,  one-quart«r  north,  four  and  a  half  miles  from  this,  lies 
the  southeasternmost  of  these  rocks ;  it  is  low,  flat,  and  double,  always 
above  water,  but  has  much  broken  ground  in  its  neighborhood.  The 
southwesternmost  of  them  bear  from  the  south  rock  northwest  Ave  and 

*  The  Strait  of  De  Fonta.    See  Fleurieu's  lutrortuctiou  to  Marcbaud,  &c. 


J*"" 


T 


^•*- 


t^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


27 


i 


.-.^ 


"Y 


a  half  miles ;  they  are  two  small  rocks,  with  mucli  broken  gronnd  north 
and  iiovthojist  of  them.  Between  these  and  the  eastern  sliore  lie  many 
dangerous  rocks  and  breakers  5  but  to  the  north w^ard  of  the  south  rock, 
and  between  it  and  these,  two  latter  clusters,  there  did  not  appear  any 
dangers. 

Point  Percy  lies  northwest  by  west  three-quarters  west  nine  miles 
from  Cape  Northumberland.  It  is  the  western  extremity  of  a  long,  nar- 
row cluster  of  low  islands,  extending  about  live  miles  in  an  east-north- 
east direction,  nearly  uniting  to  the  eastern  sliore,  which  is  much  brolcen 
north  and  south  of  them.  Between  this  point  and  Cape  Northumber- 
land are  several  clnsters  of  dangerous  rocks,  lying  in  all  directions,  a. 
considerable  distance  froin  shore,  with  very  irregular  soundings,  from 
four  to  three  fathoms  water ;  but  in  the  day-time  they  are  sufficiently 
indicated  by  the  weeds  growing  on  them. 

Point  Davison  bears  north  one-half  east  four  miles  from  Point  Per- 
cy, and  is  in  latitude  ooo  0^'.  Tiie  coast  then  runs  north  towards  an 
opening  about  two  miles  wide,  Jippearing  to  divide  the  island  of  Gravina. 
In  it  are  innumerable  rocks  and  rocky  islets.  Northward  of  this  the 
shores  trend  north- northwest  five  miles,  and  then  about  north  by  west 
six  leagues,  to  Point  VaUenar ;  they  arc  nearly  straight  and  compact, 
with  a  few  rocks  extending  from  the  projecting  points.  Tlie  shores  of 
the  Islands  of  Gravina  are  of  moderate  height,  and  covered  with  wood. 

The  soutliern  entrance  to  the  Duke  of  Clarence's  Strait  lies,  as  before 
stated,  between  Cape  Northumberland  on  tlie  east  and  Cape  de  Chacon 
on  the  west.  This  latter  cape  is  the  southwestern  i)oint  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales's  Archipelago,  and  bears  west-southwest  from  the  former  eight 
or  nine  leagues  ott',  latitude  .54°  43',  longitude  l.'51o  5(5'. 

The  first  considerable  opening  on  the  western  shore  of  the  strait, 
north  of  Cape  de  Chacon,  is  Moira  Sound ;  a  smaller  one  is  just  to  the 
south  of  it.  It  takes  a  southwesterly  direction,  and  appears  to  be  divided 
into  several  branches,  with  some  islands  lying  before  its  entrance. 

From  this  sound  tlie  western  shore  takes  a  direction  nearly  north  and 
forms  some  bays.  The  largest  of  these,  situated  in  latitude  55°  8',  has 
in  and  before  it  several  smaller  islets;  the  outermost  is  by  far  the  largest; 
and  as  it  in  umny  points  of  view  resembled  a  a\  edge,  it  was  called  Wedge 
Island.    Ott'  its  south  point  lies  a  ledge  of  dangerous  rocks. 

The  land  in  the  neighborhoo<l  of  IMoiva  Sound  is  high,  and  rather  steep 
to  the  sea;  but  beyond  Wedge  Island  the  straight  and  compact  shores 
are  more  moderately  elevated,  and  the  interior  country  is  composed  of 
lofty  though  uneven  mountains,  producing  an  almost  impenetrable 
forest  of  pine  trees  from  the  water-side  nearly  to  their  summits. 

Nine  miles  north  of  Wedge  Island  is  a  projecting  point,  in  latitude 
55°  IG^',  and  to  the  west  of  this  is  Cholmondeley  Sound,  whi(^h  extends 
to  tlie  southward,  divided  into  several  branches.  A  small  island  lies  to 
the  northwest  of  the  entrance. 

Cape  Grindall  bears  from  Cape  Caamano  southwest  by  west  four 


wmm 


mmmm 


23 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


or  five  miles  distant.  This  point  projects  from  tlie  mainland  to  the 
westward,  with  some  rocks  and  breakers  extending  abont  a  mile  from 
it.  Four  or  five  miles  to  the  southeast  of  it  is  a  large  bay,  with  some 
islets  and  rocks  Ijing  off  it.  This  is  the  Bay  of  Casaan,  and  is  one  of 
the  finest  bays  in  Eastern  Alaska. 

The  strait  up  to  this  part  varies  in  width  from  one  and  a  half  to  two 
and  a  half  leagues;  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  dangers  immediately 
adjacent  to  the  shores,  is  open  and  clear  throughout. 

Fro'v.  Oape  Caamano  to  Point  Le  Mesurier  the  coast  first  bears  north- 
west by  west  near  two  leagues,  and  then  north-northwest.  Half  way 
between  these  two  points  is  a  small  island,  with  a  passage  between  it 
and  the  eastern  shore.  Point  Le  Mesurier  projects  from  the  mainland 
t;o  <"b"  westward,  and  has  some  islets  and  rocks  extending  about  a  mile 
from  it.  0[)posite  to  Point  Le  Mesurier  is  Point  Onslow,  north-north- 
west threo-(juarters  west  five  and  a  half  miles  distant;  and  between 
•  these  points  is  the  entrance  of  an  inlet  nearly  as  extensive  as  the  one  it 
enters,  named  Prince  Elrnest's  Sound,  (after  the  Duke  of  Cumberl.and, 
th3  present  King  of  Hanover.)  Point  Onslow  is  the  south  extreme  of 
the  island  or  islands  forming  the  Duke  of  York's  Archipelago,  and  the 
above-naiiuMl  sound  encircles  it  in  a  similar  manner  to  BehiA's  Channel 
around  the  island  of  Eevilla  Gigedo. 

The  continental  shore  from  Point  Le  Mesurier  trends  north-northeast 
one-half  east  for  about  four  leagues,  iiulented  with  bays  of  ditterent 
capacity,  and  some  scattered  rocks  and  islets  along  its  shores.  The 
opposite  shores  then  incline  more  to  the  eastward  from  this  point ;  and 
to  the  northward  of  it  is  the  sonth  point  of  an  island  extending  north- 
northwest  oiu'-quarter  west  five  miles,  in  front  of  a  bay  on  the  east  shore, 
on  which  are  some  islets  and  rocks.  The  western  shore  of  the  island 
is  very  much  broken,  and  has  some  islands  off  it,  but  it  allows  a 
tolerably  good  channel  inside  it.  IiTorth  by  west  one-quarter  west  ti'om 
the  above  ba> ,  two  and  a  half  leagues,  brings  you  to  Point  Warde,  in 
latitude  50^  ()'.  The  western  shore  is  irregnlar  in  its  direction,  and 
much  broken ;  opposite  the  island  it  is  six  miles  across,  but  here  its 
shores  are  moderately  ele\'ated,  and  cov'ered  with  the  usual  productions, 
and  approach  within  a  mile  of  each  other.  From  Point  Warde  the  coast 
takes  a  sharp  turn  northeast  by  east  one-quarter  east  four  miles,  to  a 
point  where  the  channel  divides  into  two  branches:  the  easternmost 
extends  eastward  about  three  leagues,  terminating  in  the  usual  -a  ,  and 
named  Bradfield  Canal.  The  main  branch  extends  in  a  iu)rth-northwest 
direction  three  leagues,  to  a  point  in  latitude  50°  20'.  This  branch  is 
here  not  more  than  three-quarters  of  a  mile  broad,  with  a  small  islaiul 
and  two  islets  in  its  entrance.  Here  it  again  divides  into  two  branches, 
but  the  north-northeast  one  is  insignificant;  the  main  channel  to  the 
Avest,  before  which  lie  several  rocks  and  small  islets,  is  not  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  extending  irregularly  to  the  northwest  and  south- 
west, forming  a  passage  about  a  league  long  to  Point  Madau,  where  the 


i 


"-'1?*V.i, 


^^51W!r 


ALASKA.   DIRECTORY. 


29 


'■»!,.■.. 


channel  is  more  spacions,  and  again  takes  two  directions,  one  to  tlie 
south-southwest,  througli  a  broken  insuhited  region,  the  other  stretch- 
ing to  the  north-northwest  oue-half  west,  nearly  two  miles  wide.  In  this 
direction  it  proceeds  about  sixteen  miles  to  a  very  conspicuous  point,  in 
latitude  5G°  34',  named  Point  Llighfleld,  when  the  channel  again  appears 
to  divide  into  two  branches  to  the  north-northwest  and  west.  On  Point 
Hightield  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  once  had  a  fort. 

The  apparent  opening  to  the  northward  of  Point  Highfield  is  entirely 
closed  by  a  shoal  extending  across  it  from  Point  Rothsay  on  the  east  or 
continental  shore,  and  Point  Blaquiere  on  the  opposite  side,  on  the  edge 
of  which  are  only  six  and  nine  feet  Avater.  To  the  south  of  this  shoal, 
and  in  its  inmiediate  vicinity,  are  four  small  islands  and  two  or  three 
islets;  oiie  of  the  former  upon  the  shoal,  and  the  others  at  the  distance 
of  one  and  a  half  league  from  Point  llighfleld,  extend  to  the  west  and 
southwest  of  it.  This  shoal  is  very  steep,  and  by  its  connection  with 
the  adjoining  land  it  maybe  said  to  make  the  latter  form  a  portion  of  the 
continent. 

Just  to  the  northward  of  this  the  river  Stikine  debouches  on  the  east- 
ern shore,  and  near  its  mouth  is  Fort  Wrangel. 

Fort  ^\^^ANGEL  was  originally  founded  by  the  Russian- American 
Company,  and  had  been  transferred,  in  1842,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, on  a  lease  of  ten  years,  together  with  the  right  of  hunting  and 
trading  in  the  continental  territories  of  that  association  as  far  up  as 
Cross  Sound.  The  establishment,  of  which  the  site  had  not  been  well 
selected,  was  situated  on  a  peninsula  barely  large  enough  for  the  neces- 
sary buildings ;  while  the  tide,  by  overflowing  the  isthmus  at  high  water, 
rendered  any  artittcial  extension  of  the  premises  almost  impracticable  j 
and  the  slime  that  was  periodically  deposited  by  the  receding  sea  was 
aided  by  the  putridity  and  fllth  of  the  native  villages  in  the  neighbor- 
hood in  oj)i)ressing  the  atmos]_)here  with  a  most  nauseous  perfume.  The 
harbor,  moreover,  was  so  narrow  that  a  vessel  of  a  hundred  tons,  instead 
of  swinging  at  anchor,  Avas  under  the  necessity  of  nuioring  stem  and 
'■tern;  and  the  supply  of  fresh  water  was  brought  by  a  wooden  aqueduct, 
which  the  savages  might  at  any  time  destroy,  from  a  stream  about  two 
hundred  yards  distant.    This  state  of  affairs  is  now  greatly  imi)roved. 

The  Stikine  or  Felly's  River  empties  itself  into  the  ocean  by  two  chan- 
nels, respectively  four  and  ten  miles  distant  from  the  fort.  One  of  them 
is  navigable  for  canoes,  while  the  other,  though  only  in  the  season  of 
high  water,  can  be  ascended  by  the  steamer  about  thirty  miles. 

The  establishment  is  frequented  by  the  Secatquouays,  who  occupy 
the  mainland  about  the  mouths  of  the  river,  and  also  the  neighboring 
islands,  and  amount  to  about  three  thousand  souls.*  About  four  thou- 
sand or  five  thousand  peox)le  are,  in  all,  dependent  on  Fort  Wrangel  for 
supplies.    Most  of  these  Indians  make  trading  exciirsions  into  the  in- 

*The  Stickcen  tribe,  once  the  most  powerful  in  Alaska,  is  reduced  to  about  one  thou- 
sand ;  cause,  diseases  and  contact  with  the  vices  of  the  whites. 


•\ 


30 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


tenor  in  order  to  obtain  furs.  Their  grand  emporium  is  a  village,  sixty 
miles  distant  from  Dease's  L;  kc  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  from  the  sea, 
and  thither  they  resort  three  or  four  times  a  year.* 

The  north  shore  of  the  principal  arm  now  takes  a  direction  of  south- 
west one-quarter  south  for  fourteen  miles,  from  the  Stikine  River  to 
Point  Howe.  The  shores  are  indented  with  small  bays,  with  some  small 
islets;  the  opposite,  or  south  shore,  is  about  a  league  distant;  and,  to 
the  westward  of  Point  Craig,  lying  from  Point  Hood  southeast  by  east 
two  leagues,  the  shore  ap])ear8  firm  and  compact ;  to  the  east  of  it,  it  is 
much  broken  and  divided.  From  Point  Howe  the  shore  rounds  in  a 
west-northwest  direction,  to  Point  Alexander.  This  point  is  the 
easternmost  of  the  entrance  to  Duncan's  Canal,  which  stretches  irregu- 
larly north  and  northwest  to  its  termination  in  a  shallow  bay,  bounded 
to  the  north  by  a  low  sandy  flat,  in  latitude  50°  58'.  The  entrance  is 
formed  into  two  channels  by  an  island ;  the  easternmost,  called  Wran- 
gel's  Straits,  is  a  narrow  arm  six  miles  long,  with  a  rock  nearly  in  the 
center  of  the  entrance,  and  from  the  point  where  it  diverges  a  nar.'ow 
arm  extends  four  and  a  half  miles  north-northeast,  to  a  low  place  pro- 
ducing very  long  grass.  The  channel  i>asses  through  broken  land  in  a 
southwest  direction,  with  only  three  fathoms,  to  Point  Hood,  in  lati- 
tude 50°  44'.  Here  it  communicates  with  the  more  spacious  western 
branch,  about  two  miles  wide,  leading  south  on  the  western  side  of  the 
island  before  mentioned.  Above  it  Dunco'i's  Canal  stretches  irregularly, 
having  on  it  several  islets  and  shallow  bays,  the  latter  principally  on  the 
southwest  shore.  Point  Mitchell  forms  the  southwest  point  of  the  canal, 
and  is  opposite  the  opening  of  the  southern  branch  of  the  Diike  of  Clar- 
ence's Strait,  the  description  of  which  we  will  resume  from  the  point 
where  Prince  Ernest's  Sound  diverges  from  it. 

Point  Onslow,  as  before  mentioned,  is  the  north  point  of  the  entrance 
of  Prince  Ernest's  Sound ;  and  from  this  to  Point  Stanhope,  the  next 
projection  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  channel,  the  distance  is  fifteen 
miles.  The  interval  forms  a  bay  the  shores  of  which  appear  much 
broken,  and  has  some  rocky  islets  near  it.  The  coast  then  extends  north 
three-quarters  west  about  ten  miles,  to  Point  Harrington.  Three  miles 
and  a  half  southward  of  Point  Harrington  is  a  small  island,  on  the  north 
side  of  which  is  an  anchorage  close  under  the  shores  of  Duke  of  York's 
Island.  It  is  tolerably  well  sheltered  from  the  south  and  southeast 
winds,  but  the  sovmdings  are  irregular  and  the  bottom  in  parts  is  rocky. 

Point  Nesbitt  is  in  latitude  50°  15',  and  bears  from  Point  Harrington 
northwest  about  two  leagues,  the  interval  forming  the  opening  to  an 
inlet  bearing  to  the  northeast,  which  possibly  communicates  with  the 
channel  to  the  east  of  the  islands.  Off  Point  Harrington,  and  nearly 
in  mid-channel,  is  a  cluster  of  low  rocks;  and  also  off  Point  Nesbitt, 
extending  southward  from  the  point,  is  a  ledge;  these  seem  very  dan- 
gerous, as  most  of  them  are  only  visible  at  low  water.    The  western 


'  6"t  George  Simpson,  vol.  i,  pp.  209,  210. 


'*»'. 


,-H«" 


/ 


i^ljfflytlpifififlj^w.'iM^i'^F 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


31 


shore  of  the  strait  is  moderately  elevated,  of  an  uneven  surface,  and 
very  much  divided  by  water.  The  soundings  in  this  part  are  very 
irregular,  from  ten  to  thirty  fathoms,  and  in  some  places  rocky  bottom. 
Point  Nesbitt  is  very  high. 

Bushy  Island,  which  lies  in  the  channel  to  the  northward  of  Point 
Nesbitt,  is  about  two  miles  long,  having  from  its  shores,  on  both  sides, 
some  detached  rocks,  but  admitting  between  it  and  the  eastern  shore  a 
navigable  channel.  From  the  northwest  side  of  this  island  lies  also  a 
chain  of  small  islets,  extending  northward  to  the  entrance  of  this  olden- 
ing, which  is  between  Point  Macnamara  on  the  east  and  Point  Colpoys  on 
on  the  west ;  this  bears  west,  one  and  a  half  leagues  from  the  former.  Here 
the  channel  enters  from  the  northeastward,  as  before  described,  and  bears 
to  the  westward  and  south-southwest  to  the  ocean.  Point  Mitchell,  on 
the  southwest  side  of  the  entrance  to  Duncan's  Canal,  is  the  point  on 
the  north  shore  opposite  to  Point  Colpoys,  and  is  eight  miles  distant. 
The  northern  shore  of  this  branch  of  the  strait  extends  a  little  to  the 
southward  of  west  to  Point  Barrie,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles.  In 
that  space  are  innumerable  rocks :  and  nearly  nudway  between  the  two 
points  there  is  a  large  bay,  about  four  miles  wide  at  the  entrance,  and 
the  same  depth;  there  are  two  or  three  islets  and  many  rocks  in  it. 

The  southern  shore,  which  forms  the  north  coast  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales's  Archipelago,  and  the  distance  between  Point  Colpoys  and  Point 
Baker,  its  east  and  west  extreme,  is  seventeen  miles.  Just  to  the 
southwestward  Of  Point  Baker  is  an  excellent  harbor.  Port  Protection, 
which  was  a  haven  which  afforded  Vancouver  an  asylum  when  he  little 
expected  it,  amidst  impending  dangers,  in  September,  1793. 

Port  Protection  will  be  most  readily  found  by  attending  to  the 
following  directions:  It  is  situated  at  the  northwest  extremity  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales's  Archipelago;  its  southern  extreme  comprises  the  base 
of  a  very  remarkable  barren  ])eaked  mountain,  named  Mount  Calder. 
This  is  conspicuous  in  many  i)oints  of  view,  not  from  its  elevation,  when 
compared  to  the  mountains  on  the  neighboring  continent,  but  from  its 
height  above  the  rest  of  the  country  in  its  immediate  vicinity,  and  from 
its  being  visible  in  various  directions  at  a  great  distance.  Point  Baker, 
in  latitude  50°  20'  30",  longitude  133°  36',  on  an  islet  close  to  the 
shore,  forms  the  northeast  point  of  entraiice,  from  whence  the  opposite 
point  lies  south-southwest  one-half  west  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant; 
the  channel  is  good,  and  free  to  enter,  yet  there  is  one  lurking  rock,  visible 
only  at  low  tide,  lying  in  a  direction  from  Point  Baker  south  by  east  one- 
quarter  east  three  cables'  length  distant.  It  is  indicated  by  weeds,  «and  is 
clear  all  around.  There  is  also  an  irregular  bank  north  of  Point  Baker, 
with  from  fifteen  to  thirty-two  fathoms ;  this,  with  the  meeting  of  the  tides 
around  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Archipelago,  causes  an  agitation  or  race, 
especially  at  the  flood  tide,  but  there  is  no  danger;  the  depth  is  very 
great.  • 

The  harbor  takes  a  general  ilirection  from  its  entrance  southeast  by 


32 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


south  one-qnartcr  south  for  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  its  navigable 
extent  is  from  Ave  to  three  cables'  length  in  width,  beyond  which  it  termi- 
nates in  small  shallow  coves.  The  depth  is  rather  irregular,  from  thirty  to 
fifty  fathoms  5  the  shores  are  in  most  places  steep  and  rocky,  and  are 
covered  with  an  imiienetrable  fqrest  of  pine  and  other  trees.  They 
afford  several  streams  of  fresh  water;  some  flsh  and  fruit  were  found, 
as  also  wild  fowl.  The  tides  appear  to  be  irregular,  but  come  from  the 
south,  and  it  is  high  w^ater  seven  hours  fortj'  minuter  after  the  moon 
l)asse8  the  meridian. 

Points  Baker  and  Barrie  form,  as  before  stated,  the  western  extremes 
of  the  branch  of  the  Duke  of  Clarence's  Strait,  which  trends  east  and 
west.  Westward  of  this  the  strait  takes  a  southerly  direction  to  the 
Pacific,  and  the  western  shore  of  this  portion  is  formed  by  the  southern 
end  of  an  island  which  is  singularly  intersected  by  deep  bays  and  inlets, 
and  the  shores  of  which  are  bestrewed  with  innumerable  ro(5ks.  Although 
this  is  an  island,  yet  to  the  seaman  it  cannot  be  considered  so,  because 
the  narrow  channel  separating  it  from  the  main  land  north  of  Point 
Barrie  is  so  full  of  rocks  and  dangers  that  it  certainly  is  not  navigable. 

The  western  shore  of  the  strait  is  distant  from  Point  Barrie  in  a  west 
direction,  but  between  is  Conclusion  Island,  alout  three  and  a  half 
miles  long  north^zest  and  southeast,  with  some  rocks  off  its  shores,  and 
lying  in  a  large  bay  full  of  an  infinite  number  of  rocks,  very  dangerous 
even  for  boats ;  consequently  it  is  unimportant.  Between  Point  Baker 
and  Conclusion  Island,  distant  from  the  former  four  miles,  is  a  smaller 
island,  low,  and  about  a. mile  long  north  and  south,  with  a  ledge  of  very 
dangerous  rocks  extending  from  its  south  point.  Off  the  western  shore 
of  the  strait,  abreast  of  this  latter  island,  is  another  small  island  one 
and  a  half  miles  long,  and  having  two  smaller  ones  lying  off  its  south 
point. 

From  hence  the  coast  takes  an  irregular  direction  about  south  by  east 
to  a  point  in  latitude  5G°  17',  forming  the  northeast  point  of  entrance 
into  Port  Beauclerc. 

Port  Beauclerc  is  of  easy  access  and  egi'css,  free  from  every 
obstruction  but  such  as  are  suflftciently  evident  to  be  avoided.  The 
opposite  point  of  entrance  lies  west  two  miles  distant;  it  extends  north- 
west four  and  a  half  miles,  and  southwest  two  miles,  from  the  points 
of  entrance.  Nearly  in  the  middle  is  a  small  island  and  some  rocky 
islets,  and  a  rocky  islet  with  some  rocks  before  its  entrance,  lying  south 
southeast  one-quarter  east  one  mile  from  the  northeast  point  of  the 
entrance.  The  surrounding  shores  are  in  general  moderately  elevated, 
well  covered  with  wood,  and  water  is  very  easily  to  be  iirocured.  as  the 
communication  with  the  land  is  sufficiently  commodious. 

PoiN  r  Amelius  lies  southeast  by  south  one-quarter  south  about  a  league 
from  the  entrance  of  Port  Beauclerc,  and  south  of  it  the  coast  forms  a  bay 
about  a  league^to  the  westward,  and  thence  it  takes  a  more  southerly 
direction,  about  seven  miles,  to  Point  St.  Albans,  which  is  a  low  rocky 


V 


I.WJUMII  ffjtm  <».  )il!'wnp»-^ 


! 


ALASKA   DIRECTORJ'. 


33 


point,  ill  latitude  50'^  7',  longitude  133°  55'.  (Vancouver,*  vol.  ii,  page 
414.)  Ott'  this  portion  of  the  coast  islets,  rocks,  and  breakers  extend 
about  a  league.  About  bliree  miles  north  of  the  point  is  a  snug  boat 
cove. 

Affleck's  Canal  extends  to  the  north  by  west  fifteen  miles,  imme- 
diately to  the  westward  of  Point  St.  Albans.  Its  eastern  shore  has 
rocks  oft"  it  for  the  first  league  and  a  half,  and  then  becomes  straight  and 
compact  to  its  termination  in  some  low  laud,  through  which  fiow  some 
streams  of  fresh  water.  The  western  shore,  which  is  from  half  a  mile  to 
two  miles  from  that  opposite,  is  indented  with  three  largo  bays  in  its 
southern  part.  The  eastern  sides  of  the  canal  are  mountainous,  but 
not  so  steep  as  the  more  interior  country.  The  western  side  is  moder- 
ately elevated,  of  uneven  surface,  and  is  covered  with  dwarf  pine  and 
other  trees. 

Cape  Decision  is  a  very  conspicuous  promontory,  extending  in  a 
south  direction  into  the  ocean,  and  forms  the  southernmost  point  of  the 
island  we  hav^  been  describing;  it  is  in  latitude  50°  2',  longitude  134° 
3'.  Southward  of  the  cape  arc  son^ic  islands;  the  largest,  Coronation 
Island,  is  about  seven  leagues  in  circuiit.  From  the  northeast  point  of 
this  island,  which  bears  south  by  east  four  miles  from  Cape  Decision,  is 
a  range  of  rockj-  islets  extending  to  the  nortli,  within  half  a  league 
from  the  main  land,  the  space  between  them  and  the  cape  appearing 
free  from  interru])tiou. 

(Jape  Pole  is  the  i)romoutory  on  the  western  shore  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales's  Archipelago,  which  forms,  with  Cape  Decision,  the  entrance  to 
the  Duke  of  Clarence's  Strait.  They  bear  west  by  south  one-half  south, 
and  east  by  north  one-half  north,  eleven  miles  asunder.  Off  Cape  Pole  is 
Warren's  Island;  it  is  high,  and  between  it  and  the  cape  many  lurking 
rocks  were  observed.  To  the  southward  of  it  also  are  three  clusters  of 
very  dangerous  rocks,  the  first  lying  from  its  southwest  point  south  by 
east  one  quarter  east  three  and  one-half  miles  distant;  the  second,  south 
six  miles,  and  a  small  islet  lying  from  them  southeast  at  half  a  league  dis- 
tant ;  and  the  third  cluster  lies  off  the  southeast  point  of  the  island,  which 
from  its  northwest  point  lies  southeast  three-quarters  east  four  miles, 
from  whence  those  rocks  lie  in  a  direction  southeast  by  south  one- 
quarter  south,  about  four  miles  distant.  Nearly  in  mid-channel,  between 
AYarreu's  and  Coronation  islands,  there  was  no  bottom  at  one  hundred 
and  twenty  fii thorns. 

Although  the  navigation  of  Clarence's  Strait  may  be  free  from  inter- 
ruption, yet  it  ought  not  to  be  prosecuted  without  much  circumspection. 

Of  tli,e  coast  of  the  Prince  of  Wales's  Archipelago  we  know  but  very 
little,  and  that  little  is  chiefly  comprised  in  the  Spanish  charts  before 
alluded  to,  and  a  portion  of  it  in  the  atlas  accompanying  the  voyage  of 
La  Perouse.  ■ 

Cape  Addington,  which  appears  to  be  the  next  most  remarkable 
promontory  to  the  south  of  Cape  Pole,  was  so  named  by  Vancouver, 
3  AD 


^^*i.jU*iHi  ^  - 


iVRW^mfiPiifjfiiif 


34 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


after  the  speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons.  It  is  very  conspicuous, 
and,  accordiufTf  to  Vancouver,  is  in  hititnde  55°  27',  longitude  133°  48'. 

Port  JJuoareli,  a  very  extensive  inland  sea,  lies  at  the  back  of  and 
to  the  southward  of  Cape  Addington.  It  was  discovered  by  Ayala  and 
Quadra,  the  two  Spanish  njivigators,  of  whom  nu'ution  has  been  made 
previously.  They  anchored  here  on  August  10,  1775,  and  named  it 
Puerto  del  Baylio  liucareli,  in  honor  of  the  Mexican  viceroy.  It  is 
formed  by  several  islands,  but  the  account  of  the  Spaniards'  visit,  as 
given  by  Maurelle,  the  pilot,  is  so  vague  that  no  description  can  be  drawn 
from  it.  They  here  took  possession,  in  the  name  of  his  Catholic  Majesty, 
of  all  the  country  they  saw  and  allihey  did  not  see.  They  saw  no  inhab. 
itants,  though  the  remains  of  a  destroyed  hut,  ami  some  paths  here  and 
there,  indicated  that  it  was,  or  had  been,  inhabited. 

.Cape  San  Bartolom  is  the  southwest  point  of  the  entrance  of  this 
inland  sea,  and  is  in  latitude  55°  12^'  longitude  133°  36',  and,  according 
to  the  charts,  is  the  south  extremity  of  a  long  narrow  peninsula,  extend- 
ing in  a  southerly  direction,  with  some  islets  ott'  it.  Fi'bm  hence  the 
southwest  coast  of  the  archipelago  extends  to  the  sonth-southeast  and 
east  to  Cape  Chacon,  at  the  entrance  of  Clarence's  Strait.  At  the  south 
end  of  the  island  is  the  extensive  bay  called  Port  Cordova  in  the  Spanish 
charts. 

The  Easa  Isle,  or  the  Wolf  Rock,  lying  off  the  mouth  of  Port 
Bucareli,  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  impediments  to  navigation  on 
the  exterior  coast,  awd  from  these  circumstances  it  obtained  from  Van- 
couver its  latter  name.  It  is  a  very  low,  flat,  rocky  islet,  surrounded  by 
rocks  and  breakers  that  extend  some  distance  from  it ;  it  lies  fourteen 
miles  south  21°  east  from  Cape  St.  Bartolom,  twelve  miles  from  the  near- 
est point  of  the  contiguous  shore,  and  three  leagues  north  11°  east 
from  San  Carlos  Island.  It  was  seen  by  the  Spaniards  in  1775,  who 
called  it  Rasa,  or  low. 

San  Carlos  is  a  small  high  island ;  its  south  point  is  in  latitude  54° 
48',  longitude  133°  32'.  The  channel  between  it  and  the  Wolf  Rock  ap- 
I)ears  to  be  free  from  interruption,  and  was  passed  safely  by  Captain 
Douglas.  It  was  discovered  by  Ayala  and  Quadra,  in  August,  1775, 
and  by  La  Perouse  named  San  Carlos  Island.  It  is  called  Douglas 
Island  by  Meares  and  others,  ami  Forrester's  Island  by  Dixon  and  Van- 
couver, but  its  real  name  must  be  that  lirst  applied  by  the  Spaniards. 
It  was  seen  by  Douglas,  in  the  Iphigenia,  August  13,  1788.  He  says 
it  is  very  high,  covered  with  verdure,  and  visible  sixteen  or  seventeen 
leagues  oft". 

We  now  return  to  the  northward. 

Between  Cape  Decision  and  Cape  Ommaney,  which  latter  is  in  latitude 
.56°  10',  longitude  134°  33^',  and  sixteen  miles  distant  from  the  former, 
is  Christian's  Sound,  and  this  forms  the  southern  entrance  to  a  very 
extensive  island  navigation,  extending  through  upwards  of  3°  of  lati- 
tude, separating  a  series  of  large  island:,  from  the  continent  of  America. 


o 


\. 


T 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


35 


The  principal  of  those  are  Chatham's  Strait,  h'ading  iinnicdiatoly  from 
Christian's  Sound  to  th«>  ncntliward;  IMincc  FrecUunk's  Sound,  divorjuf 
infif  eastward  from  it;  and  Stephens's  Tassaine,  wliieh  branehes  northward 
out  of  the  hitter.  Tiiese  principal  arms  insulate  the  Sitka  Islands, 
Admiralty  Island,  and  numerous  subordinate  islands,  which  will  be 
described  in  due  .order,  commeucius  with  the  continental  shores. 

Christian's  Sound  is  tlie  passaj^e  between  Cape  Omnmney  an<l  Cape 
Decision.  It  is  noticed  a^ain  hereafter.  From  Ca]>e  Decision  the  coas^t 
trends  north-northwest  three-quarters  west  three  leagues,  and  then  north 
by  west  the  same  distance,  to  the  north  point  of  Port  Malmesbury. 
This  is  about  two  leaj^ues  deep  northeast  and  then  south-southeast,  and 
has  some  islets  and  rocks  on  it;  notwithstandinjjf  which  it  affords  very 
excellent  shelter  in  from  seventeen  to  thirty-four  and  twelve  fathoms 
water,  and  is  ct)nveniently  situated  towards  the  ocean.  The  north  point, 
called  Point  Harris,  is  rendered  very  renuirkable  by  its  being-  a  project- 
ing point,  on  which  is  a  singi^lo  hill,  appearing  from  many  points  of  view 
like  an  island,  Avith  an  islet  and  some  rocks  extending  near  a  mile  to  the 
southwest  of  it.  Seven  miles  further  northward  is  the  south  point  of  a 
large  bay  full  of  innumerable  islets  and  rocks,  with  a  great  number  of 
very  small  branches  in  various  directions.  Its  northwest  point  of 
entrance,  Point  Ellis,  is  in  latitude  50°  'M',  longitude  l.'i4°  15'.  This 
also  forms  the  southeast  point  of  another  small  inlet,  ecpially  intricate, 
and  as  much  incommoded  with  islets  and  rocks.  Point  Sullivan,  which 
is  the  next  point  in  the  main  inlet  to  the  northA\^rd,  is  in  latitude  50o 
38';  and  east  of  this,  also,  is  an  inlet  full  of  rocks  and  islets.  From 
Point  Sullivan  the  shores  to  the  northAvard  are  less  rocky,  and  become 
firm  and  compact,  taking  a  dire(!tion  of  north  three-quarters  Avest  thir- 
teen miles,  to  Point  Kingsmill,  which  is  conspicuous. 

Point  Kingsmill  is  the  southwest  point  of  Prince  Frederick's  Sound, 
the  opposite  point  of  entrance  being  Point  Gardner,  the  southwest 
extreme  of  Admiralty  Island.  This  sound  extends  to  the  northeast  and 
east. 

Prince  Frederick's  Sound. — From  Point  Kingsmill  to  Point  Corn- 
wallis  the  bearing  and  distance  arc  northv^ast  one-quarter  east  six  and  a 
half  miles,  the  S])ace  between  being  occupied  by  two  bays,  each  taking 
a  southeasterly  direction,  a  mile  or  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  four  or 
five  miles  deep,  and  containing  mariy  islets  and  dangerous  rocks.  To 
the  eastward  of  Point  Cornwallis  is  Kiku  or  Kekou  Archipelago,  «and  to  the 
southward  of  the  islands  is  Port  Camden,  the  west  shore  of  whicli  trends 
first  east-southeast  nine  miles,  and  then  south-southeast  one-quarter 
east  for  seven  and  a  half  miles  further.  From  this  a  branch  about  half 
a  league  Avide  runs  in  a  south- southwest  direction,  eight  miles,  to  withm 
two  miles  of  the  head  of  the  inlet  northeast  of  Point  Ellis,  previously 
mentioned.  The  shores  of  this  branch  of  Port  Camden  are  pretty  free 
from  islets  and  rocks,  but  those  to  the  northwest  of  it  are  lined  with 
them,  and  render  the  approaching  of  it  extremely  dangerous.    From 


36 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


I 


th(i  point  wlience  this  branch  divprjfos  to  tho  aonth,  another  i^xtonds  to 
the,  oast  Honthcast,  calU'd  Ki'kou  Straits,  and  then  sonthvvard  as  far  as 
ttit!  nortliorn  part  of  (Ihiront'e's  Mtrait,  liavinj;:  I'oint  IJarric  and  Conchi- 
fiion  Island  at  its  south  extreme.  Tliere  is  a  passage  througli  lor  tit'tceii 
feet,  but  it  is  full  of  rocks,  islets,  and  shoals. 

The  peninsula,  \vhioh  is  eonneet(Ml  with  the  more  eastern  land  by  the 
lastinentioned  narrow  isthmus,  is  by  no  mejins  so  high  or  mountainous 
as  the  laiul  eoni|)osing  the  adja<*ent  eouutries  on  \\w  opi)osite  or  north- 
eastern side  of  the  sound,  which  at  no  great  distaiu;e  consists  of  very 
lofty,  rugged,  dreary,  barren  mountains,  covered  Avith  ice  and  snow; 
but  the  land  composing  the  i)eninsula  is  chiefly  of  moderate  height,  aiul 
producing  a  noble  forest  of  large  and  stately  i)ine  trees,  of  clean  and 
straight  growth,  anu)ng  which  were  a  few  berry-bushes  aiul  some 
ahhirs. 

Point  Macartney  forms  the  northeast  point  of  Kekou  Bay  and 
Arcliipelago.  It  is  a  large,  rounding,  though  not  lofty  promontory,  in 
which  are  several  small  open  bays,  and  near  it  several  detached  rocks. 
From  hence  the  shore  trends  north  by  east  one-half  east  about  a  league, 
where  the  width  of  the  sound  is  about  seven  miles  across,  in  a  north- 
west direction,  to  Point  Nepean.  From  this  station  north-northcuist  one 
half  east,  four  aiul  a  half  miles  distant,  lie^  Povorotny  Island,  with 
patches  of  i  k  from  this  point  reaching  nearly  to  its  shores,  but  a  good 
channel  betwet,-. 

The  promontory  stu.  ^es  a  rounding  direction  ~^:out  east-northeast 
five  miles  further,  from  whence  the  southern  shore  of  the  sound  extends 
east  by  south  one-half  south  seventeen  miles  to  the  west  point  of  a  snmll 
cove,  Perenosnaia  Creek,  the  only  oi)ening  in  the  shore  from  Point 
Macartney  5  but  off  the  littl'^  projecting  points  between  this  cove  and 
that  point  are  detached  rocks  1^  ingat  no  great  distance  from  the  shore. 
The  cove  extends  southeae^  \-y  south  about  a  league,  forming  a  narrow 
isthmus,  two  miles  acro:'^^;  irom  the  head  of  Duncan's  Canal,  another 
striking  instance  of  the  extraordinary  insular  state  of  this  region.  The 
cove  is  a  good  harbor. 

Point  Cardner,  as  before  mentioned,  forms  the  northwest  point  of  the 
entrance  to  Prince  Frederick's  Sound.  To  the  eastward  of  Point  Gardner 
are  two  anchorages,  both  bad  in  southeast  weat]ier,but  good  in  northerly 
gales.  The  one  nearest  the  point  is  called  Surprise  Harbor,  and  the 
eastern  one  Murder  Cove,  from  the  fact  that  some  traders  were  murdered 
here  by  Kake  Indians.  Off  it,  in  a  south-southeast  direction,  lie  some 
rocks  and  a  small  island,  called  Tasha  IslaLd ;  the  former  at  the  distance 
of  three-(piarters  of  a  mile,  and  the  latter  at  that  of  three  miles.  The 
coast  hence  rounds  irregularly  to  Point  Townsend,  a  distance  of  nine 
miles;  off  the  projecting  points  are  some  rocks.  Six  and  a  half  miles 
east-northeast  from  tuis  is  Point  Nepean,  situated  in  latitude  57°  10', 
longitude  134°  5'.  It  is  a  higli,  steep,  bluff',  rocky  point,  and  off  it  lies 
a  ledge  of  rocks  about  half  a  mile.    From  this  the  coast  takes  a  more 


%^^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


87 


%»•■» 


northerly  (UNMHon,  or  northeaat  one-half  north  ten  and  a  half  miles,  to 
I'oint  I'ybusj  the  coast  between  is  much  indented  with  sniidl  bays  and 
vast  nund»ers  of  islets  and  rocks,  both  above  and  beneath  the  water.  It 
is  in  general  but  moderately  eh  \ated;  and  althouj^h  it  is  eoujposed  of 
a  ro<'ky  substance,  produces  a  very  tine  forcs*^,  chiftiy  of  pine  timbers. 
JSorthward  of  this  is  a  larj^e  channel,  called  Ste[>hens\s  Tassaj^e;  I'rince 
Frederick's  JSouiul  contituies  to  the  eastward  and  southeastward. 

Cape  Fansiiaw,  which  is  the  i)oint  of  the  main  land  opposite,  and 
forminj?  the  aufjfle  at  which  the  two  channels  divcrj^e,  is  low  and  pro- 
jecting", but  very  conspicuotis,  in  latitude  ."iT^  11',  l()ngittul(;  VS,P  -r>.y. 
The  branch  is  hero  eight  miles  wide,  and  its  northern  shove  takes  a  course 
east-southeast  sixteen  miles,  to  a  low,  narrow  point  of  land  two  and  a 
half  "miles  long,  and  half  a  mile  broad,  stretching  to  the  south,  called 
Point  Vandei)ut.  Here  the  breadth  of  the  branch  decreases  to  three 
and  a  half  miles,  in  a  south  direction,  to  a  steep  blurt'  point;  from  this 
part  the  braiu;h  tak(;s  a  more  southerly  course.  South  of  Point  Vande- 
I)ut  a  shoal  extends  about  a  mile,  and  on  its  east  side  a  small  bay  is 
formed,  from  whence  the  eastern  shore  trends  southeast  by  south  seven 
miles  to  another  point,  off  which  a  shoal  extends  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile.  The  shore  here  is  a  small  extent  of  tlat  laud,  lying  immediately 
before  the  lofty  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  to  a  prodigious  height 
immediately  behind  the  border.  A  few  miles  to  the  south  of  this  margin  the 
nu)untaina  extended  to  the  water-side,  when  a  part  of  them  presented  au 
uncommonly  awful  appearance,  rising  with  an  inclination  towards  the 
water  to  a  vast  height,  loaded  with  an  immense  quantity  of  ice  and 
snow,  and  overhanging  their  base,  which  seemed  insufticient  to  bear  the 
ponderous  fabric  it  sustained,  and  rendei'ed  tlie  view  of  the  passage 
beneath  it  horribly  magnificent.    There  is  a  very  large  glacier  here. 

At  about  eighteen  miles  south  of  this  the  head  of  the  inlet  or  Souchin 
Channel  appears,  closed  by  a  beach  extending  all  around  the  head  of  it. 
At  high  water  this  becomes  a  shallow  bank,  with  an  island  on  it.  Be- 
yond it  is  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine  Eiver. 

It  was  observed  by  Mr.  Whidbty,  during  Vancouver's  survey,  that  in 
no  one  instance,  during  his  researches,  either  in  the  several  branches 
of  Prince  William's  Sound,  in  those  extending  from  Cross  Sound,  or  in 
the  numerous  branches  about  Admiralty  Island,  did  he  find  any  immense 
bodies  of  ice  on  the  islands ;  all  those  which  he  had  seen  on  shore  were 
in  the  guUeys  or  valleys  of  the  connected  chain  ex  lofty  mountains  so 
frequently  mentioned,  and  which  chiefly  constitute  the  continental  shore 
from  Cook's  Iidet  to  Prince  Frederick's  Sound ;  though,  in  different 
places,  these  mountains  are  at  different  distances  from  the  sea-side.  He 
likewise  observes  that  all  the  islands  or  groups  of  islands  were  land 
of  a  moderate  height  when  compared  with  the  stupendous  mountains 
which  compose  the  continental  boundary,  and  were  still  seen  to  continue 
in  a  southeast  direction  from  this  shallow  passage,  whilst  the  land  to 


iij|[i,wjyjiflM.pnpptpppn!?i^Pi^^ 


38 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


i. 


the  M'estward  of  the  passage  assumed  a  more  moderate  height,  was  free 
from  snow,  and  ])roduced  a  forest  of  k>ft,y  pine  trees.* 
*  Stephens's  Passage,  whicli  is  over  ninety-five  miles  in  length,  opens 
into  Prince  Frederick's  Sound,  between  Point  Pybus  and  Cape  Fanshaw, 
whieh  are  sixteen  miles  asunder.    It  is  a  good,  clear  channel  all  the  way. 

North  by  ea.st,  six  and  one-half  miles  from  Capo  Fanshaw,  is  Port 
Houghton.  There  are-  many  rocks  on  the  shore  between.  The  .south 
])oint  of  the  harbor  is  Point  Walpole,  near  which  are  some  islets  and 
sunken  rocks.  Its  north  point  is  Point  Hobart,  north  by  west  a  league 
from  the  other,  and  from  which  extends  a  bank  of  sand,  a  little  distance 
from  the  shore,  but  leaving  a  clear  passage  between  it  and  the  islets  into 
the  port.  Findlay  reports  that  it  extends  east-southeast  five  or  six 
miles,  a^idis  bounded  by  lofty  mountains,  forming  the  shores  of  a  snug 
harbor,  with  soundings  of  ten  to  six  fathoms  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  shore,  sand  and  muddy  bottom;  but  Commander  Meade 
entered  the  port  at  night,  in  the  United  States  steamship  Saginaw,  and 
could  find  nothing  less  than  eighty  fathoms  close  to  the  rocks.  He.  was 
forced  to  go  out  again,  at  the  risk  of  being  wrecked  among  the  rocks 
with  which  he  was  surrounded.  From  Point  Hobart  to  Point  Wii.uham 
the  bearing  and  distance  are  north-northwest  one-quarter  west  twelve 
and  one-half  miles.  Between  are  several  islets,  iu  various  directions. 
Opposite  to  Point  Windham  is  Point  Hugh,  and  here  perhaps  it  may  be 
considered  that  StepheUvS's  Passage  more  properly  begins. 

Beyond  Point  Hugh  is  Point  Gambier,  bearing  south-southwest  one- 
half  west  five  miles  from  it ;  and  this  latter  is  northeast  one-quarter 
north  six  miles  from  Point  I'ybus,  previously  mentioned.  Between  the 
two  former  points  is  the  entrance  to  Seymour's  Canal,  which  extends 
northwest  by  north  twenty-nine  miles  from  Point  Hugh  to  its  head,  in 
latitude  57°  51'.t  At  its  entrance  ifc  is  from  two  miles  to  three  miles 
wide,  which  gradually  increases  towards  its  head  to  two  leagues.  At 
its  termination  is  a  small  brook  of  fresh  AVi.^er.  South  of  this  the  cen- 
ter of  the  inlet  is  occupied  by  two  islantis,  together  about  eight  miles 
long,  having  a  great  number  of  islets  on  their  northeast  sides.  The 
adjacent  country  is  moderately  high,  and  covered  with  timber  of  large 
growth,  excepting  towards  Point  Hugh,  which  is  a  lofty  rocky  prom- 
ontory, from  w^hence  extends  a  ledge  of  rocks  on  which  the  sea  breaks 
-with  considerable  force. 

This  point  forms  the  south  extreme  of  a  long,  narrow  stri[)  of  land 
dividing  Seymour's  Canal  from  Stephens's  Passage.  The  southwest 
cx)astof  this  i^assage,  whieh  is  liere  about  five  miles  in  breadth,  is  nearly 
straight,  compact,  and  free  from  rocks  or  other  interrui>tions  uj)  to 
Grand  Island,  a  high,  round  island,  lying  in  the  middle  of  the  channel, 
iu  latitude  58°  3',  from  which  the  western  shore  exteiuls  north  by  west 


*  Vancouver,  vol.  iii,  pp.  282,  283. 

t  The  Kodtziiiilioo  Iii«liaiiH  lopoit  tlmt  there  in  a  caiioc  )>nH8nge  at  high  water  from 
Seymour  Channel  to  Kootzniihoo  Arehipelago. 


^ 


i 


ALASKA.   DIRECTORY. 


39 


It 


f 


eiglit  miles  to  Point  Ardeu,  wliert  the  branch  divides  into  three  arms, 
the  principal  one  directed  to  tlie  westward. 

The  eastern  sliore  of  the  jjassage,  np  to  this  part,  is  composed  of  a 
compact  range  of  stapendons  mountains,  chiefly  barren,  and  covered 
with  ice  and  snow,  but  aftbrdiug  some  inlets.  From  Point  Windham, 
on  the  sou<}h,  to  Point  Astley,  thirteen  miles  to  the  ninth,  the  shores  are 
very  rocky,  and  contain  many  spiall,  open  coves.  Tlie  latter  is  the 
south  point  of  a  deep  bay,  about  four  miles  wide,  named  llolkham  Bay, 
on  which  are  three  small  islands,  to  the  westernmost  of  which  a  shallow 
bank  extends  from  each  side  of  the  bay.  Much  floating  ice  was  seen 
within  the  islands.  From  Point  Coke,  its  north  point,  in  a  direction 
about  west-northwest  two  and  one-half  miles,  are  the  Medway  Islands, 
which  are  two  small  rocky  islets,  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  branch ; 
and  the  eastern  shore  trends  from  it  northwest  one-half  west  nine  or 
ten  miles  tc  Point  Anmer,  the  south  point  of  Port  Snettisham.  This 
harbor  first  extends  about  a  league  from  its  entrance  iji  a  northeast 
direction,  where  on  each  side  the  shores  form  an  extensive  cove,  termin- 
ated by  a  sandy  beach,  with  a  fine  stream  of  fresh  water.  On  the  north- 
west side  of  the  entrance  (Point  Styleman)  is  a  small  cove,  on  which 
there  is  also  a  run  of  water,  with  an  islet  lying  before  it.  The  shores 
are  high  and  steej),  and  produce  very  few  trees.  From  the  latter  point, 
which  is  in  latitude  57°  53',  longitude  13;P  41)',  the  eastern  shore  trends 
about  northwest  twelve  miles  towards  the  high  round  island  before 
mentioned.    This  part  is  much  indented  with  small  bays. 

Ta  CO*,  or  Takou,  which  was  a  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  establishment, 
is  on  a  little  harbor  almost  land-locked  by  mountains,  being  partially 
exposed  only  to  the  southeast.  One  of  the  hills,  near  the  fort,  teriuinates 
in  the  form  of  a  ranoe,  which  serves  as  a  barometer.  A  slnoud  of  fog 
indicates  rain;  but  the  clear  vision  of  the  canoe  itself  is  a  sign  of  fair 
weather. 

The  fort  was  very  complete,  with  good  houses,  lofty  pickets,  and  strong 
bastions.  The  establishment  was  maintained  chiefly  on  the  flesh  of  the 
cheveril,  which  is  very  fat,  and  has  an  excellent  flavor.  Some  of  these 
deer  weigh  as  much  as  one  hundi'ed  and  fifty  pounds  each,  and  they  are 
80  numerous  that  Takou  had  in  1812  sent  to  market  twelve  hundred  of 
their  skins,  being  the  handsome  averiige  of  a  deer  a  week  for  every 
inmate  of  the  place,  the  post  being  conducted  by  Dr.  Kennedy,  with  an 
asvsistant  and  twenty-two  meii. 

But  extravagance  in  eating  venison  was  here  a  very  lucrative  business; 
for  the  hide,  after  paying  freight  and  charges,  yielded  in  London  a])iofit 
on  the  ])rime  c«ist  of  the  whole  animal. 

Seven  tribes,  thiee.of  them  living  on  islands  and  four  on  the  main 
land,  ^  isited  Takou.  They  musteretl  about  four  thousand  souls,  and 
were  delighted  to  have  the  English  settle  among  them,  and  on  this  ground 


*Tak^)U  harbor  is  a  fow  iiiiloM  hi  tho  wiintlnvanl  and  «m8twaril  of  Ovaiwl  Isluiul.    The 
chuuuol  runs  to  tlie  eastward  of  Grand  iMlaud  in  jjoiny  north  to  Talcou  River. 


40 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


m 


fl» 


.1 


m 


were  jealous  of  other  iDdians.  The  big-horn  sheep  and  mountain  goat 
were  very  numerous  in  the  neighborhood.  In  1809  the  fort  is  in  ruins, 
and  the  settlement  deserted. 

The  River  Takou,  falling  into  the  inlet  to  which  it  gives  its  name, 
according  to  Mr.  Douglas,  who  ascended  it  about  thirty-five  miles,  pur- 
sues a  serpentine  course  between  stupendous  mountains,  which,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  points  of  alluvial  soil,  rise  abruptly  from  the  water's 
edge.  In  spite  of  the  rapidity  of  the  current,  the  savages  of  the  coast 
ascend  it  one  hundred  miles  in  canoes,  and  thence  trudge  away  on  foot 
the  same  distance  to  an  inland  mart,  where  they  drive  a  profitable  busi- 
ness, as  middlemen,  with  the  neighboring  tribes.  Besides  facilitating 
this  traffic,  the  establishment  of  the  fort  has  done  much  to  extinguish  a 
traflic  of  a  very  difl:'ereut  t-endency.  Though  some  of  the  skitis  ^uwiously 
found  their  way  from  this  neighborhood  to  t^itka  and  Sl-S'io  most 

of  them  used  to  be  devoted  to  the  purchasing  of  slaves  fro^  .»-;  Vidians 
of  Kygarnie  and  Hood's  Bay  (Kootznahoo.*) 

Opposite  to  Point  Ardeu,  on  the  western  shore,  is  the  mouth  of  Takou 
Inlet,  leading  to  the  northeast  from  Stephens's  Passage.  Its  west  point 
of  entrance  is  Point  Salisbury,  near  which  is  a  village,  and  it  extends 
about  north  by  east  thirteen  miles,  when  the  shores  spread  to  east  and 
west,  and  form  a  basin  about  a  league  broad  and  two  leagues  across, 
northwest  and  southeast,  with  a  small  island  (River  Island)  lying  nearly 
at  its  northeast  extremity.  From  the  shores  of  this  basin  a  comjuict 
body  of  ice  extended  some  distance  nearly  all  round  at  the  time  of  Van- 
couver's visit;  and  the  adjacent  region  is  composed  of  a  closely  united 
continuation  of  the  lofty  range  of  frozen  mountains,  whose  sides,  almost 
perpendi<;ular,  were  formed  entirely  of  rock,  excepting  close  to  V 
water-side,  where  a  few  scattered  dwarf  pine  trees  find  sufticient  or 
to  vegetate  on :  above  these  the  mountains  were  wrapped  in  undissolving 
ice  and  snow.  From  the  rugged  gullies  in  their  sides  were  projected 
immense  bodies  of  ice,  that  reached  perpendicularly  to  the  surface  of  the 
water  in  the  basin,  which  admitted  of  no  landing  place  for  the  boats,  but 
exhibited  as  dreary  and  inhospitable  an  aspect  as  the  imagination  ciin 
l>ossibly  suggest.  The  rise  and  fall  of  tide  here  were  very  considerabl'. , 
appearing  to  be  upwards  of  eighteen  feet. 

From  Point  Ardeu  Stephens's  Passjvge  takes  a  general  course  of  -^  ^st 
three-quarters  north,  and  is  about  a  league  in  width.  About  five  K  ^  -'.r •> 
along  the  south  shore  is  Point  Young,  tVn'ming  the  east  point  of  Ai 
harbor,  with  nn  island  (Skull  Island)  and  rock  in  its  entrance  and  anoth.'r 
at  the  bottom  of  Auke  Bay.  Here  the  width  of  the  arm  is  decreased 
to  half  a  league,  and  the  south  shore  stretclies  ' .  f^rth  w  .-s)  one-quarter  nc.  ch 
seven  miles  to  a  cove  with  an  islet  lying  near  it.  'Jo;  i.i  horn  this  cove,  one 
and  a  hfilf  leagues  distant,  is  the  west  ]>oint  of  Douglas  Island,  so  named 
after  the  Bishop  of  Salisbury,  and  forms  the  n(  rth  side  of  this  portion  of 
the  passage.    It  is  about  twenty  miles  long,  and  six  broad  in  the  middle, 

*  Sir  George  Siinpsoii,  vol.  i,  pp.  214-21G. 


I 


1 


f 


i 


m 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


41 


J. 


^st 


narrowing  towards  each  end,  and  separated  from  tlie  continent  by  a  nar- 
row channel,  rendered  nearly  always  impassable  from  its  being  filled  with 
ice — an  evidence  of  the  partial  nature  of  this  jihenomenon,  for  the  other 
arms  w^ere  free  from  this!  obstruction. 

To  the  northwe.st  of  this  part  are  Shelter  Islands,  between  which  and 
Admiralty  Island  is  a  rocky  and  intricate  passage,  dangerons  for  the 
navigation  of  sailing  craft,  but  navigable  by  steam  vessels. 

The  channel  beyond  the  northwest  point  of  Douglavs's  Island  is  divided 
into  two  branches  by  Shelter  Island,  a  very  narrow  island,  about  four  and 
a  half  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  broad.  The  passage  on  its  northeast 
side  requires  a  pilot,  Avithout  which  it  may  be  considered  as  next  to 
impassable  for  shipping,  by  reason*  of  the  rocks  and  islets  at  the  south- 
east end  of  it.    The  other  channel  is  safe  for  steamers.* 

Opposite  the  north  end  of  the  above  island  is  Point  lietreat,  the  north- 
ernmost point  of  Admiralty  Island;  it  is  in  latitude  58°  24',  longitude 
134°  59'.  About  a  league  southward  from  Point  Eetreat,  in  the  southern 
channel,  is  a  deep  bay — Barlow's  Cove — which,  with  the  narrow  island 
lying  before  it,  forms  a  very  snug  harbor,  of  good  access  by  the  passage 
round  to  the  north  of  Point  Eetreat,  as  the  rocky  part  of  the  channel  lies 
to  the  southeast  of  it  To  the  west  of  Point  Retreat  and  Admiral  y  Island 
is  that  extensive  branch  named  by  Vancouver,  after  the  nobleman,  Chat- 
ham's Strait,  to  the  south  opening  of  which  we  will  now  return. 

Chatham's  Strait. — Cape  Decision,  the  southeast  point  of  entrance, 
has  been  before  described.  It  was  so  named  by  Vancouver,  from  his 
having  so  far  decided  that  the  great  openings  stated  to  exist  by  De 
Fonte,  De  Fuea,  and  others  did  not  <ixist — a  conclusion  he  was  scarcely 
warranted  in  making,  inasmuch  as  a  more  careful  attention  to  their  nar- 
ratives shows  some  truth,  although  much  alloyed  with  the  fabulous. 

The  other  i)oint  of  entrance  is  Cape  Ommaney,  the  south  extremity  of 
the  Sitka  Archipelago;  it  was  so  named  by  Captain  Colnett.  Off  it  lies 
an  islet  or  rock  called  Wooden's  Islaml,  from  one  of  Vancouver's  men 
having  been  drowned  here. 

The  opening  between  Capes  Onnnaney  and  Decision  Avas  named  by 
Colnett  Christian's  Sound,  and  off  the  opening  is  a  gToup  of  small  rocky 
islets,  a  league  in  extent,  called  the  Hazy  Islands.  They  lie  south  three- 
quarters  east  sixteen  leagues  from  Cape  Ommaney,  southwest  by  west 
one-half  west  from  Cape  Decision,  and  three  leagues  west  from  Corona- 
tion Island,  which  is  the  nearest  land  to  them. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  strait,  from  its  southern  point  to  the  entrance 
of  Prince  Frederick's  Sound,  has  been  before  described.  Point  Gard- 
ner, the  north  point  of  its  entrance,  is  also  the  southern  extremity  of 
Admiralty  Island.  From  this  point  the  eastern  shore  of  the  strait  runs 
al>out  north  three-quarters  west  twenty -two  miles  to  Hood's  Bay,  whicli 

*,The  Uiiitod  States  Steamer  Saj^iiiaw  (March,  18(59)  pa«8e«l  through  without  piU)t,  aud 
without  any  trouble.  The  channel  seems  perfectly  clear,  except  at  the  east  i^art  of  Bar- 
low's Cove. 


^i- 


42 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


i 


is  about  one  and  a  half  league  across  to  Kootznahoo  Head,  and  lias 
some  islands  nearly  in  its  center.  In  the  intermediate  distance  are  two 
smaller  bays,  off  the  points  of  each  of  which  islets  and  rocks  lie  at  a 
little  distance. 

Point  Parker  is  nine  miles  north  three-quarters  west  from  Kootz- 
nahoo Head;  the  shores  are  high.  In  Kootznahoo  Inlets  Vancouver's 
party  found  some  cultivation  of  a  species  of  tobacco,  the  only  instance 
they  had  met  with  among  the  Northwest  American  Indians.  Beyond 
this,  still  following  the  same  direction  for  thirty  miles,  is  Point  Marsden, 
off  which  are  some  rocks.  The  land  is  very  moderately  elevated,  cov- 
ered with  fine  timber,  chiefly  of  the  pine  kind,  and  terminating  at  the 
water  side  ,  '  •  Iternate  steep  rocky  cliffs  and  small  sandy  bays,  with 
a  few  detaCii  /cks  and  islets  lying  near  it.  Hence  to  Point  Retreat, 
which  is  the  noiih  extremity  of  Admiralty  Island  before  mentioned,  the 
distance  is  about  sixteen  miles,  the  coast  being  n(!'arly  in  the  same  direc- 
tion and  of  the  same  character  as  that  more  to  the  south. 

Admiralty  ISLAND.~The  shores  of  Admiralty  Island,  which  have 
thus  been  described,  are  about  sixty  leagues  in  circuit.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  its  northwest  and  southeast  parts,  they  are  very  bold,  affording 
numy  convenient  bays  likely  to  admit  of  safe  anchorage,  with  line 
streams  of  fresh  water  flowing  into  them,  and  presenting  an  aspect  very 
different  from  that  of  the  adjacent  continent,  as  the  island  in  general, 
except  at  its  northwest  end,  is  moderately  elevated,  and  produces  an  unin- 
terrupted forest  of  very  fine  timber  trees,  chiefly  of  the  pine  tribe;  whilst 
the  shores  of  the  continent  bounded  by  a  continuation  of  those  lofty 
frozen  mountains  Avhich  extend  southeastward  froni  Mount  Fairweather 
rise  abrui)tly  from  the  water  side,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  whilst 
their  sides  are  broken  into  deep  ravines  or  valleys,  tilled  Avith  immense 
mountains  of  ice;  notwithstanding  that  the  island  seems  to  be  composed 
of  a  rocky  substance  covered  with  little  soil,  and  that  chiefly  consisting 
of  vegetables  in  an  imperfect  state  of  dissolution,  yet  it  produces  timber 
which  was  considered  by  Mr.  Whidbey  to  be  superior  to  any  he  had 
before  noticed  on  this  side  of  America.  The  ocean  hereabouts,  too, 
encroaches  most  rapidly  on  the  low  land.  The  stumps  of  trees  in  various 
stages  of  decay,  still  standing  erect,  are  to  be  found  below  high-water 
mark,  and  many  of  the  low  shores,  now  covered  with  the  sea,  pioduced, 
at  no  very  distant  period,  tall  and  stately  timber.  In  Kootznahoo  Arch- 
ipelfigo  are  very  extensive  coal-fields. 

Lynn  Channel. — In  latitude  58°  35'  a  po'nt  projects  from  the  west 
shore  of  Lynn  Channel,  which  bears  north-northwest  from  Point  lietreat, 
and  north  b;^  west  from  Point  Couverdeu,  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula 
separating  the  canal  from  Chatham  Strait.  Both  sides  of  the  arm  are 
bounded  by  lofty,  stupendous  mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  ice  and 
snow,  whilst  the  shores  in  the  neighborhood  appear  to  be  composed  of 
cliffs  of  very  fine  slate,  interspersed  with  beaches  of  paving-stone;  bhe 
channel  continues  to  be  about  five  miles  wide,  and  the  western  shore 


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ALASKA  DIRECTOEY. 


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straight  and  compact.  In  latitude  58°  54'  is  Sullivan's  Rock,  about  two 
miles  from  the  west  shore.  Another  islet  lies  to  the  north,  between  it 
and  the  south  point  of  Sullivan's  Island,  five  miles  long  and  one  broad, 
lying  along  the  western  shore,  and  forming  a  channel  about  a  mile  wide, 
having  at  its  southern  entrance  shoals  that  extend  nearly  from  side  to 
si'.'"  Beyond  this  the  arm  diverges  into  two  branches,  Tchillkat  to 
the  westward  and  false  Tchillkat  to  the  eastward,  the  western  one  ter- 
minating in  its  navigable  part  in  latitude  59°  12'.  At  its  head,  accord- 
ing to  Lisiansky's  chart,  is  the  river  and  village  of  Tchillkat.  There 
are  some  islets  and  rocks  in  mid-channel,  and  above  these  the  water  is 
perfectly  fresh.  AboA'e  the  shoal  limiting  the  navigation,  the  arm 
extends  half  a  league,  and  through  a  small  opening  a  rapid  stream  of 
fresh  water  rushes  over  the  shoal.  The  eastern  side  of  this  portion  of 
the  arm  is  low,  and  indented  into  small  bays  and  coves,  extending  south- 
east one-half  south  four  and  a  half  leagues  to  Seduction  Point,  from  off 
which  lies  a  range  of  small  islands  about  four  miles  in  a  south  direction. 
The  southernmost  is  a  flat  barren  rock,  but  on  the  other  trees  were  pro- 
duced. This  peninsula  is  a  narrow  strip  of  low  land,  one  or  two  miles 
across,  separating  the  w^estern  from  the  eastern  arm,  which  extends  north 
by  west  three-quarters  west,  about  eleven  miles,  and  thence  wijids  in  a 
westerly  direction  about  three  miles  further,  where  it  terminates  in  low 
laud,  formed  immediately  at  the  foot  of  high  stupendous  mountains, 
broken  into  deep  gullies,  and  loaded  with  perpetual  ice  and  snoAv.  The 
eastern  shore  of  the  inlet  trends  in  a  compact  manner  to  Point  Sherman, 
and  from  thence  to  Point  St.  Mary's,  in  latitude  58°  43J',  forming  the 
north  point  of  a  bay  called  Berner's  Bay,  about  four  miles  across  in  a 
south-southeast  direction,  and  about  Ave  miles  deep  to  the  north-north- 
east. From  its  south  part.  Point  Bridget,  the  continental  shore  takes  a 
direction  south-southeast  one-quarter  east,  and  at  eight  miles  lies  Rals- 
ton Island,  with  some  rocks  and  islets  about  it.  Beyond  this  navigation 
is  difficult,  even  for  boats,  being  incommoded  with  numberless  islets  and 
rocks.  Beyond  these  islets,  to  the  south  westward,  lies  Lincoln  Island, 
and  from  the  shore  of  the  main  laud  a  shallow  bank  extends  nearly  half 
a  league.  The  large  island  is  about  six  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and 
opposite  to  its  southwest  point  is  Point  Retreat,  the  west  side  of  the 
entrance  to  Stephens's  Passage.  Southwest  of  Lincoln  Island  is  Hump 
Island. 

Lynn  Channel  was  first  made  known  and  surveyed  by  Vancouver's 
party,  under  Mr.  AVhidbey,  in  July,  1794,  and  was  named  by  the  com- 
mander after  his  native  town  in  Norfolk. 

It  receives  a  river,  Tchillkat,  wliich  the  Indians  ascend  about  fifty 
miles  to  a  valley  running  towards  Mount  Fairweather,  and  containing  a 
large  lake,  which  pours  its  waters  into  the  open  ocean  at  Adnsiralty  Bay. 
The  natives  of  this  valley  are  called  the  Tchillkat  or  Copper  Indian^,  from 
the  abundance  of  native  copper  in  the  neighborhood.* 

*  Sir  George  Simpsou,  toI.  i,  p.  217. 


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44 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


THE  SITKA  ARCHIPELAGO. 


The  land  forniing  this  collection  of  islands  was  first  discovered  by 
Alexoi  Tschirikow,  the  second  in  command  of  the  exj^edition  under  the 
unfortunate  Behring,  in  1741.  This  Avas  their  third  voyage,  and  they 
were  separated  by  a  storm  soon  after  they  had  set  out  on  their  voyage. 
Tschirikow  directed  his  course  to  tl  ast,  from  the  parallel  of  4S°,  and 
toward  the  middle  of  July  made  the  land  of  America,  between  the  fifty- 
fifth  and  fifty-sixth  parallels ;  but  others  place  his  landfall  in  58°.  The 
coast  which  he  found  was  steep,  barren,  guarded  by  rocks,  and  without 
a  single  island  that  could  aiford  shelter.  He  anchored  oft"  the  coast,  and 
detached  his  long-boat,  with  orders  to  put  on  shore  wherever  she  could 
land.  Several  days  elapsed  without  her  reappearing;  he  dispatched 
his  other  boat  to  gain  tidings  of  her,  but  the  latter  no  doubt  experienced 
the  same  fate  as  the  former,  and  it  is  unknown  what  became  of  either. 
Some  canoes,  manned  by  native  Americans,  presented  themselves  a  few 
days  after,  to  reconnoitre  the  ship ;  but  they  durst  not  approach  her, 
and  there  remained  on  board  no  boat  of  any  sort  that  could  be  detached 
to  join  or  pursue  them,  and  prevail  on  them  to  come  to  the  ship,  where 
they  would  have  been  detained  for  hostages.  Tschirikow,  despairing  to 
see  again  the  men  whom  he  had  sent  on  shore,  resolved  to  quit  the  coast, 
and  accordingly  returned  to  Kamtsckatka.*  These  discoveries  became 
known  to  France  and  Europe  from  the  fact  of  Uelisle  de  la  Croyere,  one 
of  the  brothers  of  the  French  savans,  and  Dr.  Steller,  the  naturalist, 
having  accompanied  Tschirikow.  Such  was  the  first  authentic  discovery 
of  Northwest  America,  which  arose  out  of  the  original  plans  i)rojected 
by  Peter  the  Great,  and  subsequently^  carried  into  ettect  by  the  Empress 
Catharine. 

The  land  in  question,  like  Vancouver  Island  and  others  to  the  south- 
ward, was  then  supposed  to  form  part  of  the  American  continent;  and 
it  was  not  until  Vancouver's  expedition  that  Chatham's  Strait  was  dis- 
covered, and  thus  showed  the  real  nature  of  the  land  on  the  Pacific. 
Vancouver,  too,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  preceding  remarks,  did  not 
very  minutely  examine  the  western  shore  of  the  strait  to  which  he  gave 
the  name  of  his  vessel,  but  justly  inferred  that  it  was  penetrated  by  one 
or  more  channels  leading  to  the  open  ocean,  from  the  fact  of  some  of  the 
natives  being  found  in  the  strait  who  belonged  to  the  other  side  of  the 
islands. 

Captain  Urey  Lisiansky,  of  the  Russian  uaAy,  examined  the  group  in 
1805 ;  and,  by  his  survey,  it  appears  that  it  consists  of  four  principal 
islands,  viz:  Jacobi,  Kruzov,  Baranoff,  and  Tchitchagoft". 

Baranoff  Island  is  the  southernmost,  and  is  about  eighty-five  miles 
in  length,  by  about  twenty  miles  on  its  maximum  breadth.  On  its  west 
side  is  Sitka,  or  Norfolk  Sound,  the  principal  i)lar8  ot  resort  in  these 

*  See  MHller's  Discoveries  of  the  Russians,  vol  i,  pp.  41-43. 


^ 


f. 


t> 


1. 


i 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


45 


I 


% 


seas,  and  was  the  situation  of  the  headquarters  of  the  Imperial  Eussiau 
Company. 

Kruzov  Island,  the  south  extremity  of  which  is  formed  by  Cape  and 
Mount  Edgcumbe,  lies  before  Sitka  Sound.  It  was  so  named  by  Captain 
Lisiansky,  after  the  llussian  admiral.  It  is  separated  from  Baranoff 
Island  by  Kevski  Channel.  It  is  about  seven  leagues  in  length.  At  its 
north  extreme  is  the  Bay  of  Islands,  but  whitjh  leads  to  the  strait,  sep- 
arating the  two  principal  islands  of  the  group  called  by  Lisiansky 
Pochibshi  or  Peril  Strait;  It  joins  Chatham's  Strait,  is  deep,  and 
derives  its  name  from  a  party  of  Kussiaus  and  Indians  having  been 
poisoned  there  some  years  previously  by  eating  muscles,  an  accident,  it 
will  be  remembered,  which  occurred  to  one  of  Vancouver's  party,  as 
mentioned  before.  Kruzov  Island  is  called  Pitt  Island  by  Dixon,  and 
on  some  other  early  charts. 

TcHiTCHAGOFF  ISLAND  is  the  next  and  northernmost  large  island.  It 
is  divided  from  Baranott'  Island  bj'^  the  Peril  Straits,  previously  mentioned, 
and  extends  from  it  to  Cross  Sound,  which  separates  it  from  the  con- 
tinent to  the  northward. 

Jacoei  Island,  the  fourth  of  those  described  by  Lisiansky,  lies  at  the 
northwestern  extremity  of  Tchitchagotf  Island.  The  passage  separating 
them  was  not  explored  by  Lisiansky,  but  a  vessel  belonging  to  the 
Russian  comi)any  was  said  to  have  passed  through  it,  and  to  have  found 
a  sufficient  depth  of  water. 

The  Sitka  Islands  are  plentifully  supplied  with  wood,  chiefly  of  pine, 
larch,  and  cedar,  and  abundance  of  wild  berries  are  found.  The  rivers, 
during  summer,  are  full  of  excellent  fish.  Herrings  swarm  in  the  sound 
every  spring;  fine  cod  nmy  be  caught,  and  halibut,  of  great  Aveight,  with 
the  hook  and  line  only.  There  are  few  land  animals,  but  a  great  quan- 
tity of  almost  every  species  of  amphibious  ones.  The  birds  are  not  so 
numerous  as  at  the  Kodiack  Islands  to  tlie  northward. 

The  climate  of  these  Islands  is  considered  to  be  capable  of  producing 
barley,  oats,  and  Euroi)ean  fruits  and  ACgetables;  but  the  Eussiau  estab- 
lishment was  in  a  great  measure  dependent  on  the  produce  of  the  more 
southern  settlements  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Victoria,  Van- 
couver, and  Puget's  Sound.  The  summer  is  warm,  and  extends  to  the 
end  of  August;  the  winter  differs  from  the  Eussiau  autumn,  only  that 
there  are  frequent  falls  of  snow. 

Of  the  native  popidation  it  is  difficult  now  to  speak;  they  are  an 
uncoutli  race,  similar  to  those  previously  mentioned.  They  are  brave, 
but  extremely  cruel.  The  labret,  or  lip-piece,  among  the  women,  is  one 
of  the  greatest  characteristics. 

Cape  Ommaney,  in  latitude  50°  9',  longitude  134°  34',  is  the  south 
extreme  of  the  Archipelago ;  oft'  it  lies  Wooden's  Island ;  they  have  been 
alluded  to  before,  as  forming  the  southwestern  entrance  point  of  Chat- 
ham's Strait. 

Port  Conclusion. — Two  leagues  north  by  east  one-half  east  from 


1 


46 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


! 


Cape  Omniancy,  which  has  boon  before  described,  the  south  point  of  the 
Sitka  Archiiielaj^o  is  the  southern  point  of  the  entrance  to  I'ort  Con- 
elusion,  so  called  because  it  was  here  that  Vancouver's  vessels  awaited 
the  conclusion  of  the  survey  of  this  coast  in  August,  1794,  having  left 
England  on  the  1st  of  April,  1791,  for  that  service.  The  north  point  of 
Port  Conclusion  bears  from  the  southern  north  three-quarters  west  two 
miles  distant.  The  depth  of  water  in  midchannel,  between  these  points, 
is  seventy-flve  fathoms,  but  decreases  to  eight  or  ten  close  to  the  shores, 
without  rocks  or  sands,  excepting  near  the  iyi)ints,  which  are  sutliciently 
evident  to  be  avoided.  South-southwest,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
northern  point  of  entrance,  is  a  most  excellent  and  snug  basin,  Port  Arm- 
strong, about  a  mile  long,  and  a  third  of  a  mile  wide;  but  its  entrance 
is  by  a  very  narrow  channel,  half  a  mile  in  length,  in  a  west-southwestern 
direction,  with  some  islets  and  rocks  lying  off  its  southern  points;  these 
are  steep,  nearly  close  to  them,  as  are  the  shores  on  both  sides,  which 
vary  from  sixth  to  a  twelfth  of  a  mile  asunder,  with  a  clear  navigable 
passage  from  eight  to  twelve  fathoms  deep  in  the  middle,  and  tive 
fathoms  on  the  sides.  T-  j  soundings  are  tolerably  regular  in  the  basin, 
from  thirty  in  the  middle  to  ten  fathoms  close  to  the  shores.  Immedi- 
ately within  its  northern  point  is  a  line  sandy  beach,  and  an  excellent  run 
of  water,  as  is  the  case  also  at  its  head,  with  a  third  sandy  beach  just 
within  its  southern  point  of  entrance.  In  the  vicinity  of  these  beaches, 
.  -specially  the  first  and  third,  is  a  small  extent  of  low  land ;  but  the  other 
parts  of  the  shores  are  composed  of  steep,  rugged  clift's,  on  all  sides, 
surrounded  by  a  thick  forest  of  pine  trees,  which  grow  with  more  vigor 
than  those  in  other  parts  of  the  harbor. 

From  its  entrance  to  its  head  the  port  extends  about  a  league  south- 
west by  south,  free  from  any  interruption,  although  it  is  inconvenient 
from  its  great  depth  of  water.  Near  the  southern  side  of  the  entrance 
lie  a  small  islet  and  some  rocks,  but  these  are  entirely  out  of  the  way 
of  its  navigation.  The  soundings  cannot  be  considered  as  very  regular, 
yet  in  general  they  are  good;  in  some  places  it  is  stonj',  in  others  sand 
and  mud ;  but  in  the  cove,  where  the  vessels  were  at  anchor,  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  within  the  south  point  on  the  other  side,  the  bottom  is  rocky. 
The  head  of  this  cove  approaches  within  the  fourth  of  a  mile  of  the  head 
of  another  cove,  whose  entrance  on  the  outside  is  about  two  miles  to  the 
south  of  the  south  point  of  the  harbor. 

In  the  entrance  of  that  cove  the  depth  is  seven  fathoms;  weeds  were 
seen  growing  across  it,  and  to  the  northward  of  it  is  a  small  islet,  and 
some  rocks.  The  surrounding  shores  are  generally  steep  and  rocky, 
and  covered  with  wood  to  the  water's  edge ;  but  on  the  sides  of  the  a(\ja- 
cent  hills  are  some  spots  clear  of  trees,  and  chiefly  occupied  by  a  damp, 
moorish  soil,  with  several  pools  of  water.  The  surface  produces  some 
berry  bushes,  but  the  fruit,  in  August,  was  not  r'pe. 

Tlie  western  shore  of  Chatham's  Strait  was  n<ri,  minutely  surveyed  by 
Vancouver's  party.  It  follows  a  nearly  straight  direction  from  Port  Con- 


I 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


47 


elusion,  about  north  by  west  for  105  miles  to  Point  Augusta,  in  latitude 
58°  3^',  longitude  135°,  i)reserving  a  nearly  parallel  direction  to  the 
opposite  side,  which  varies  from  five  to  nine  miles  distant. 

This  extensive  .arm,  as  far  as  was  ascert.ained,  is  without  danger,  ami 
probably  aftbrds  manj^  places  of  refuge.  The  Hood  tide,  although  of 
short  duration,  not  running  more  than  two  hours,  Avas  regularly  observed 
to  come  from  tlie  south.*  To  the  northward  of  Point  Augusta  the  west- 
ern shore  diverges  more  to  the  westward,  while  the  eastern  side  beyond 
Port  M.arsden  still  preserves  the  same  direction.  Into  the  opening  thus 
formed  a  peninsula  of  the  main  land  projects  to  the  southward,  tiuis 
dividing  it  into  two  channels;  the  principal  being  to  the  northwest, 
while  that  which  continues  on  in  a  north  or  west  course  is  called  Lynn 
Canal. 

Point  Couverden,  the  south  extremity  of  the  above  peninsula,  is  in 
latitude  58°  12',  longitude  135°  4'.  It  was  so  named  after  the  seat  of 
Vancouver's  ancestors  in  Tlolland.  Tlie  continental  shore  in  this  neigh- 
borhood constitutes  a  narrow  border  of  low  land,  well  wooded  with 
stately  trees,  chiefly  of  the  pine  tribe,  behind  which  extends  a  continua- 
tion of  the  lofty  snowj^  mountains.  About  two  miles  north  of  Point 
Couverden  are  one  small  island  and  three  rocky  islets,  one  of  which  lies 
nearly  in  midchannel.  Beyond  this  the  western  shore  of  the  arm  is 
firm  and  compact,  indented  with  a  few  coves,  and  some  islets  and  rocks 
Ij'ing  near  it.    The  eastern  shore  presents  a  broken  appearance. 

From  Point  Couverden  the  continental  shore  takes  a  somewhat  irre- 
gular direction,  northwest  one-half  west  seven  leagues,  to  a  part  of  which 
lies  a  low  and  nearly  round  island,  about  two  leagues  in  circuit.  It  is 
moderately  elevated,  its  shores  are  pleasant  and  easy  of  access,  and  well 
stocked  with  timber,  mostfy  of  the  pine  tribe.  About  a  league  to  the 
eastward  of  it  lie  some  islets.  To  the  north  and  west  of  this  the  shores 
of  the  continent  form  two  large  open  bays,  terminated  by  compact,  solid 
mountains  of  ice,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  water's  edge,  and 
bounded  to  the  north  by  a  continuation  of  the  united  lofty  frozen  moun- 
tains that  extend  eastward  from  Mount  Fairweather.  These  bays  were 
filled  with  large  quantities  of  broken  ice,  set  in  motion  and  drifting  to 
the  southward  by  a  northerly  Avind,  Avliich  obliged  Mr.  Whidbey's  boats 
(July,  1704)  to  take  shelter  around  the  northeastern  part  of  an  island 
which  lies  west  one-half  south  from  the  low  round  island  above  men- 


*  Mr.  Whidbey  conjsidoiTd  that  Chathaiii's  Strait  was  likely  to  be  one  of  the  most  pro- 
fitable i)laee.s  for  proeuring  the  skin.s  of  the  wea-otter  on  the  whole  coast,  not  only  from 
the  abundance  observed  in  lie  possession  of  the  natives,  but  from  the  ininiense  num- 
bers of  these  animals  se(>n  abont  the  shores  in  all  directions.  Here  the  sea-otters  were 
in  such  plenty  that  it  was  easily  in  the  power  of  the  natives  to  procure  as  many  as  they 
chose  to  be  at  the  trouble  of  takinj^.  They  were  also  of  extremely  line  quality. — (Van- 
•ouver,  vol.  iii,  p.  2(14.)  This  opinion  has  been  verified  by  the  success  of  the  Russian 
company  since  established  here.  Counnander  R.  W.  Meade,  jr.,  comnumding  United 
States  steamer  Sayinaw,  reports  that  in  18G9  the  sea-otter  had  disappeared  from  this 
strait. 


48 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


* 


tioned,  distant  from  it  three  leagues.  Tliis  island  is  abnut  sevrn  miles 
long,  northeast  and  southwest,  and  three  miles  broad.  On  its  north  side 
is  a  channel  two  to  three  miles  wid^,  between  it  and  the  continental 
shore.  The  northwestern  point  ot  this  channel  is  Point  Duudas,  in  lati- 
tude 58°  2Vj  longitude  135°  55'. 

To  the  westward  of  this  point  is  a  branch  extending  to  the  north  and 
northwest.  At  about  two  leagues  up  it  the  channel  is  nearly  stopped 
by  shoals,  roclvy  islets,  and  rocks,  four  miles  beyond  which  it  is  flnally 
closed,  being  in  most  i)laces  greatly  encumbered  with  ice.  On  its  north- 
eastern side  are  some  shoals,  which  extend  to  within  half  a  mile  of  its 
sputhwestern  side.  The  entrance,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide  between 
Points  Dundas  and  Wimbledon,  has,  in  midchannel,  on'.,,  eighteen 
fathoms  wtiter.  About  the  entrance  the  soundings  are  regular,  of  a 
moderate  depth,  and  afford  good  and  secure  anchorage ;  but  in  the  sum- 
mer season  (or  in  July)  vessels  would  be  much  inconvenienced  by  the 
immense  quantities  of  floating  ice. 

Cape  Spencer,  the  north  point  of  the  entrance  of  Cross  Sound,  on 
the  Paciftc  Ocean,  is  a  very  consi)icuous,  high,  bluff  promontory.  Off 
it  extend  some  rocks  for  about  half  a  league.  It  is  in  latitude  5S°  14', 
longitude  136°  35',  and  bears  from  Point  Wimbledon  southwest  three- 
quarters  west,  distant  eleven  miles.  To  the  northwest  of  Point  Wimbledon 
the  main  land  terminates  in  steep,  rugged,  rocky  cliffs,  oft"  which,  at  a 
little  distance,  fire  three  small  rocky  islands.  The  bay,  extending  to  the 
northwest  between  these  points,  was  occupied  by  an  icy  barrier  and  a 
great  quantity  of  floating  ice,  (in  July,  1794,)  rendering  the  navigation 
across  it  very  diiiicult  and  tedious.  The  head  of  the  bay,  which  decreases 
to  three  miles  in  width,  is  formed  by  a  range  of  lofty  mountains,  con- 
nected with  which  is  an  immense  body  of  Compact  perpendicular  ice, 
extending  from  shore  to  shore.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  eastern  side 
the  shores  are  composed  of  a  border  of  low  laud,  which,  on  high  tides, 
is  overflowed,  and  becomes  broken  into  islands. 

The  southern  shore  of  this  portion  of  the  strait  is  of  a  more  broken 
character  than  the  northern.  We  have  described  it  as  far  as  Point 
Augusta,  lying  opposite  to  Point  Marsden  and  Couverden.  Prom  this 
to  Point  Sophia  is  north  by  west  one-quarter  west  seventeen  miles ;  the 
coast  composed  chiefly  of  rocky  clitt's,  with  islets  and  detached  rocks 
lying  at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  which  is  compact,  not  very  high, 
but  well  covered  Avith  wood.  The  latter  point  is  at  the  northeast  of  the 
entrance  of  Port  Frederick,  the  entrance  of  which  is  about  a  league 
wide,  east  and  west,  winding  to  the  southward,  and  apparently  nnich 
divided  by  water.  Prom  the*  west  side  of  this  sound  the  shore  takes  a 
more  northerly  direction,  with  some  islets  near  it,  to  a  point  whii^h  is 
the  northern  extreme  of  the  archipelago,  in  latitude  58°  18'.  Hence 
the  coast  takes  an  irregular  course,  west  by  south  seventeen  and  oncf- 
half  miles,  to  Point  Lavinia,  containing  many  open  bays.  On  the  oppo- 
site shore  of  the  sound  is  Point  Wimbledon,  just  mentioned,  bearing 


*s- 


i 


ALASKA.   DIRECTORY. 


49 


i 


t. 


north  by  west  six  miles  from  it.  Betwoeii  tlioso  points  is  si  jjroup  of  one 
low  and  two  liifjfh  rocky  islands,  with  some  rocks  and  islets  about  them. 

Port  Altiiorp  is  to  the  westward  of  Point  Laviniii,  which  extends 
eleven  miles  to  the  southward  of  it.  Its  south  point  of  entrance  is  Point 
Lucan.  From  Point  Lucan,  in  a  direction  about  northwest,  lies  a  narrow, 
high  island,  about  two  and  a  quarter  miles  in  length ;  and  between  ith 
southeast  point  and  Point  Lucan  there  are  two  small  islets,  which  ren- 
der that  passage  not  so  commodious  for  sailing  in  and  out  of  the  port  as 
that  to  the  north  of  the  islaiul,  between  it  and  the  west<n'n  part  of  a  clus- 
ter of  three  snmll  islands,  which  extend  ab(mt  two  miles  from  the  eastern 
side  of  the  port.  This  channel  is  clear,  free  from  danger,  and  is  al)out 
one  and  a  quarter  mile  in  width,  with  a  tolerably  snug  cove,  in  which 
Vancouver  anchored,  just  within  its  northwest  i)oint  of  entrance.  The 
high  narrow  island  aifords  great  protection  to  the  northern  part  of  this 
port,  which,  opposite  to  that  island,  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  wide; 
but  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  harbor,  and  oi)posite  the  south  point  of 
the  island,  are  some  detached  rocks;  and  at  Point  Lucan,  Avhich  is  sit- 
uated from  Vancouver's  sliips'  cove  south-southeast  four  and  ah^lf  miles 
distant,  the  width  of  the  harbor  is  two  miles,  from  whence  it  extends 
southeast  three-quarters  south  about  two  leagues,  ami  terminates  in  a 
basin  that  affords  good  and  secure  anchorage,  the  best  passage  into 
whjch  is  on  the  eastern  shore.  The  cove  in  which  Vancouver's  ships 
were  stationed  afforded  good  anchorage  also,  but  it  was  not  so  well  sh<>l- 
tered  as  the  basin,  nor  was  there  any  fresh  water  in  it  that  could  be  easily 
procured,  a  disadvantage  that  can  readily  be  done  away  with  by  resort- 
ing to  a  stream  of  excellent  water  close  at  hand,  on  the  eastern  shore, 
where  the  casks  may  be  .filled  in  the  boat.  The  surrounding  country  is 
chiefly  composed  of  a  rugged  rocky  substance,  cov^ered  with  a  forest 
consisting  ])rincipally  of  pine  trees,  and  where  the  steep  acclivities  do 
not  forbid  their  growth  they  extend  down  to  the  water's  edge. 

Cross  Sound  was  discovered  by  Captain  Cook,  in  his  last  voyage,  on 
Sunday,  May  3,  1778,  and  was  named  lim  from  the  day  marked  in 

the  calendar.  Its  existence  was  denied  by  some  after  its  original  dis- 
covery, but  the  survey  of  it  proves  that  Cook's  description  is  much  more 
accurate  than  from  the  transitory,  distant  view  he  had  of  it  might  have 
been  reasonably  expected.  Its  eastern  limits  may  be  placed  at  Points 
Lavinia  and  Wimbledon,  Avhich  have  been  previously  described.  From 
seaward  it  appears  to  branch  into  many  openings,  the  largest  seemingly 
to  the  northward;  this  is  the  large  bay  described  between  Cape  Spencer 
and  Point  Wimbledon.  Its  southern  shore,  from  Point  Lucan  to  Point 
Bingham,  which  is  opposite  to  Cape  Spencer,  trends  southwest  by  west 
one-quarter  west  ten  miles.  Between  these  points  an  opening  takes  a 
southeast  by  south  direction  for  some  distance,  and  probably  affords  some 
shelter  and  secure  anchorage.  Point  Bingham,  which  lies  south  by  east 
one-half  east  ten  miles  froui  Cape  Spencer,  affords  a  bold  entrance  into  the 
sound,  without  rock,  shoal,  or  any  permanent  obstacle.  The  group  of 
rocky  islands,  noticed  as  existing  to  the  south  of  Point  Wimbledon,  form 
4  AD 


50 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Si!' 


II-  • 


\\   V 


1 

1 

:      \ 

1  ■ 

1      1 

1; 

i    1 

1 

|| 

1 

;) 

1 

a  kind  of  termination  i  >  Cro»s  Sound,  and  almost  separatoHlio  ocean 
from  Chatham's  Strait,  to  the  eantward  of  it ;  but  on  eitlier  Hide  of  theso, 
ialandn  there  are  two  narrow  channels;  the  northernmost,  ])ein;;'  tl  <i 
widest,  is  near  a  mile  aeross  ;  the  southernmost  is  about  half  that  width, 
both  of  whiih  are  free  from  rocks,  shoals,  or  any  other  imi)e<liment,  ex- 
cepting the  larj?e  massesof  tloatinjjf  ice,  which,  at  the  time  of  Vancouver's 
survey  (July,  1704,)  romlered  them  very  dangerous  tonavijjate,  although 
in  ihe  winter  they  are  mo.-;t  probably  entirely  closed  or  impassable. 

Every  part  of  Cross  Sound  appears  to  be  free  from  any  rock,  shoal, 
or  permanent  obstacle;  aiul  if  it  does  possess  any  navigable  objec- 
tion, it  is  the  unfatht.nuible  d;'pth  of  it,  which  everywhere  exists,  except, 
ing  vtn'y  near  the  shores,  along  which,  iii  many  places,  are  detached 
rocks;  these,  however,  lie  out  of  the  way  of  its  navigation,  and  are  suflfi- 
(jiently  conspicuous  to  be  avoided. 

Tho  unfortunate  La  Perouse  touched  on  this  part  of  thecoast,  pre^^ous  to 
liisdepartureforthewest,inl78G.  He  makes  the  following  renuirks  upon  it: 

At  Cross  Sound  the  high  mountains  covered  with  snow  terminate,  the 
peaks  of  which  are  eight  or  nine  thousand  feet  high.  The  uitry  bor- 
dering on  the  sea,  southeast  of  Cross  Sound,  is  elevated  t\\  usand  to 
two  thousand  five  hundred  feet.  Mount  Crillon,  almost  as  elevated  as 
Mount  Fiiirweather,  is  to  the  north  of  Cross  Son  id,  in  the  same  way 
that  Mount  Fairweather  is  to  the  north  of  the  Bale  des  Fran^-ais :  they 
will  serve  to  point  out  the  ports  they  are  nejir  to.  The  one  may  be  readily 
mistaken  for  the  other,  in  coming  from  the  south,  if  the  latitiule  should 
not  be  correct  witnin  15'.  Otherwise,  from  all  points,  Mount  Fairweather 
appears  accompanied  by  two  mountains,  less  elevated ;  and  Mount  Cril- 
lon, more  isolated,  has  its  peak  inclined  towards  the  south.* 

Cape  Cross,  which  was  considered  by  Cook  as  forming  the  southeast 
point  of  entrance  to  the  sound,  is  not  precisely  so,  but  lies  about  seven 
miles  south  of  Point  Bingham,  which  forms  the  true  southeast  point. 
The  interior  part  is  a  low,  rocky  land,  free  from  any  danger. 

From  Cape  Cross  the  coast  takes  a  direction  of  south  31°  east,  about 
seven  leagues,  to  another  promontory,  to  which  Vancouver  gave  the 
name  «>f  Cape  Edward,  and  off  which  lies  a  cluster  of  small  islets  and 
rocks.  The  coast  between  these  canes  is  much  broken,  and  has  several 
openings  in  it  that  aijpear  likely  to  afford  shelter ;  but  the  vast  number 
of  rocks  and  small  islets,  some  producing  trees,  and  others  entirely  bar- 
ren, that  extend  to  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles  from  the  shore, 
will  render  the  entering  of  such  harbors  unpleasant  and  dangerous,  until 
a  more  competent  knoAvledge  of  their  several  situations  may  be  better 
acquired.t    That  which  appeared  to  Vancouver  to  be  the  easiest  of  access 


*  Voyage  (le  La  Peronse,  vol.  ii,  p.  219. 

t  "  All  the  land  next  the  sea,  beginnine;  about  eight  leagues  to  the  southeast  of  Cross 
Gape,  and  tending  to  within  ten  leagues  of  Cape  Edgcumbe,  seems  to  bo  composed  of 
low  woody  islands,  among  which  there  appear  several  places  of  good  shelter.  The 
inland  country  forms  into  a  number  of  peaked  hilh,  some  well  wooded,  and  others  quite 
hn.Te."—Fortlock,p.  257. 


:i 


■ 


I 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


51 


I 


lies  about  two  leagues  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Edward,  and  as  it  is  in 
latitude  57°  44',  ho  was  led  to  conclude  that  this  opening  was  Portlock's 
Harbor. 

Poutlock's  Hariiou. — "On  drawing  near  the  o])ening,  and  about 
two  miles  from  the  sliore  to  the  ntnthwest  of  it,  we  had  twenty  and 
twentyfivo  fathoms  water  over  muddy  bottom,  aiul  just  within  the 
entrance  were  some  high,  barren  rocks.  On  getting  into  the  entrance 
of  the  passage,  which  is  about  a  mile  across,  we  deei)ened  the  water  to 
thirty  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  the  barren  rocks  Just  mentioned  (an<l 
Uogan's  Island)  forn'ing  the  south  side;  the  northern  side  is  Hill's 
Isliind,  low  Ifuid,  forming  itself  into  several  small  bays,  from  whose 
points  are  breakers  at  no  great  distance.  About  half  a  mile  within  the 
barren  rocks  we  had  thirty  fathoms  over  a  rocky  bottom,  which  depth 
and  bottom  wo  carried  at  least  a  mile  further,  steering  northeast  by  east, 
which  is  nearly  the  course  into  the  harbor.  The  passage  so  far  is  nearly 
a  mile  across,  with  bold  vocky  shores  on  each  side.  Presently  after- 
wards we  shoaled  the  w  iter  to  ten  fathoms,  being  then  in  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  chaiuiel,  which  in  that  situation  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile 
across,  having  to  the  north  souui  bold  rocks,  and  to  the  south  a  bluff 
point  of  land;  to  the  east  of  which,  a  small  distance  from  shore,  are 
some  rocks  which  just  show  themselves  above  water.  Immediately  on 
passing  these  rocks  we  deepened  the  water  very  quickly  to  thirty  and 
forty  fatiioms,  and  a  most  spacious  and  excellent  harbor  oi)ened  itself  to 
our  view,  bending  to  the  northwest  and  southeast,  and  running  deep 
into  the  northward,  with  a  number  of  small  islands  scattered  about. 
We  ran  up  towards  the  northwest  part  of  the  harbor,  and  after  passing 
a  small  island  near  the  north  shore,  covered  with  trees,  we  anchored  in 
thirty-oiui  fathoms  mud,  entirely  land-locked;  the  rocks  lying  in  the 
inner  part  of  the  i)assage,  just  shut  in  with  the  small  island  already  men- 
tioned, and  bearing  south  three  or  four  miles  distant."* 

The  adjacent  country  abounds  with  white  cedar,  and  excellent  spruce- 
beer  may  be  made.  Wooding  and  watering  are  performed  with  facility, 
and  some  salmon  may  also  be  caught. 

Goulding's  Harbor  is  a  branch  of  Portlock  Harbor,  extending  from 
its  northwest  part.  It  runs  in  a  zigzag  direction,  between  north  and 
northeast,  about  five  miles  to  the  head  of  it  from  the  island  on  the 
entrance.  It  appears  navigable  for  at  least  four  miles  up  for  vessels  of 
any  size,  and  there  are  a  number  of  small  islands  covered  with  trees 
scattered  about  in  various  parts  of  it.  At  the  head  of  it  Portlock  saw 
some  Indians'  houses  whose  filthiness  he  describes,  t 

From  Cape  Edward  the  coast  takes  a  direction  about  south  30°  east 
to  a  very  conspicuous  opening,  named  by  Captain  Cook  the  Bay  of 
Island;  lie  rightly  considered  that  it  was  the  entrance  to  a  channel 
which  separated  the  land,  on  which  Mount  Edgcumbe  is  situated,  from 


»  Portlock,  pp.  257,  258. 
t  Ibid.,  p.  270 


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ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


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the  adjacent  shores.  It  m  also  the  entrance  to  the  channel  separating  the 
two  principal  islands  of  the  Sitka  Archipelago.  Near  the  land  forming 
the  southern  pai't  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  are  several  small  islets,  and  its 
south  point  was  named  hy  Vancouver,  Point  Amelia. 

From  Point  Amelia  the  coast  extends  south  5'^  east,  sixteen  miles,. to 
Cape  Edgcumbe,  having  nearly  in  the  middle  of  that  space  an  opening, 
with  two  small  islets  lying  before  it,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  a 
good  harbor,  called  by  Vancouver  Port  Mary.  The  other  parts  of  the 
coast  are  indented  with  small  open  bays. 

This  is  the  western  face  of  the  island,  named  Kruzov  Island  by  the 
Ilussian,  and  Pitt  Island  by  the  early  English  navigators.  The  follow- 
ing notice  of  the  channel  which  insulates  it  is  given  by  Captain  Port- 
lock  : 

"  Between  Cape  Edgcumbe  and  Portlock  Harboi',  Portlock's  long-boat 
fell  in  with  a  strait  about  a  league  Avide  at  the  entrance,  mA  running  in 
about  east  or  east-southeast,  with  bold  shores  and  good  anchorage. 
Soon  after  getting  in,  (the  southern  and  eastern  i^oint  in  latitude  57°  30', 
and  the  nortlieru  and  western  in  57°  36',)  they  stood  up  between  south 
and  southeast  near  four  leagues,  the  strait  being  about  three  leagues 
across,  with  several  islands  in  it.  They  kept  along  under  the  southern 
shore,  and  after  getting  up  the  passage  about  four  leagues,  they  found 
it  not  more  than  half  a  league  across;  two  leagues  higher  it  becuame  nar- 
row arid  shoal,  drying  at  southwest  above  two  miles.  After  passing  this 
it  grows  wider  still,  trending  away  to  northeast,  the  de[)th  increasing 
gradually;  they  soon  came  into  a  large  sound,  where  they  saw  a  great 
number  of  whales,  and  also  Blount  Edgcumbe,  and  some  islands  lying  to 
the  southeast  of  Cape  Edgcumbe.  On  getting  round  the  north  i)oint  of 
this  passage,  through  which  they  had  come  thus  far,  there  was  an  open- 
ing running  up  in  a  north  direction,  and  branching  in  several  ways;  in 
the  entrance  of  the  main  opening  were  several  small  islands.  They  still 
continued  to  steer  on  to  southeast  for  a  ])assage  about  one  and  a  half 
mile  across,  made  by  the  north  part  of  an  island  just  under  Mount  Edg- 
cumbe (Pitt  or  Kruzov  Island)  and  the  main,  through  which  they  saw 
the  sea.  After  getting  through  this  passage,  they  steered  among  a 
cluster  of  islands,  lying  n^ar  the  shore,  to  the  north  of  Cape  Edgcumbt."* 

Cape  EDGcrMUE,  the  Caoo  del  Eugailo  of  the  Spanish  charts  of  Man- 
rclle,  is  low  land,  covereil  with  trees,  which  projects  considerably  into 
the  sea,  latitude  57°  2',  longitude  35°  45'.  t 

.  Mount  Edgcumbe,  which  stands  on  the  south  end  of  the  island, 
inland  of  the  cape  of  the  same  name,  is  the  ]\lount  San  Jacinto  of  the 
Spanish  charts.  It  is  estimated  to  be  about  two  thousaiul  eight  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  The  side  toward  the  sea  is  steep,  aiul  was  covered 
with  snow,  (in  July,  1805;)  that  towards  the  bay  (to  the  southward)  is 


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•  Portlock,  ]).  274-270. 

t  Voyage  «lc  La  P<5i'ouse,  tome  ii,  p.  22L 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


53 


Bmootli,  and  of  j^'adual  asceiit,  and  overgrown  with  woods  to  within  oi\e 
and  a  luilf  mile  of  the  top.  This  upper  space  exhibits  a  few  patches  of 
verdnre,  but  is  in  general  covered  with  stones  of  diiferent  colors.  Oa 
the  suuiniit  is  a  lake-basin,  or  crater,  about  two  miles  in  circumference, 
and  forty  fathoms  deej),  the  snrfac  ;  covered  Avith  snow.  To  judge  from 
the  api)earance  of  the  top  of  this  mountain,  it  may  be  concluded  that  it 
was  formerly  much  higher;  but  the  eruptions  having  ceased,  that  time 
has  crumbled  to  pieces  the  highest  points,  and  tilled  up  the  aby8s  out  of 
which  the  materials  forming  the  exterior  mountain  were  vomited.  Many 
years  must  have  elapsed  since  this  volcano  was  in  action,  as  several 
sorts  of  the  i-ejected  lava  are  turning  to  earth.  * 

Sitka  or  Norfolk  SorNi>.— The  first  of  these  two  names  is  that  of 
the  natives,  who  call  themseh-es  Sitka-hans.  It  is  probably  the  same  as 
that  called  by  the  Spaniards,  Baya  de  Guadalupa.t  It  is  also  called 
Tchinkitanay  Bay  by  Marchand  and  other  authors.  The  name  of  Nor- 
folk Sound  is  that  applied  to  it  by  Dixon,  whose  industry  first  made 
known  its  real  character ;  he  anchored  in  the  first  cove  round  Cape 
Edgcumbe,  and  did  not  penetrate  to  the  eastward,  to  where  the  Eus- 
sian  establisliment  was.  The  charts  and  descriptions  of  this  period 
are  so  imperfect  that  they  would  probably  rather  tend  to  mislead  than 
instruct.  J  By  referring  to  these  authors,' ample  descriptions  of  the 
natives,  their  habits  and  manners,  will  be  found.  These,  however,  are 
probably  much  changed  since  their  c<mtact  with  Europeans. 

The  coast  of  Sitka  Bay  is  intersected  by  many  steep  rocks,  and  the 
neighboring  waters  thickly  sprinkled  witli  litth^  I'ocky  islands  overgrown 
with  wood,  which  are  a  protection  against  the  storms,  and  ]>resent  a 
strong  wall  (kf  defense  against  the  waves.  A  bold,  enterprising  man,  ot 
the  name  of  Baranoff,  long  superintended  the  company's  establishment. 
Peculiarly  adapted  by  natute  for  the  task  of  contending  with  a  wild 
people,  he  seemed  to  find  a  ])leasure  in  the  o<;cupation.  Although  the 
conquest  of  the  Sitkaens,  (Sitka-hans,)  or  Kalnsbes,  aahs  not  so  easily 
achieved  as  that  of  the  more  timid  Aleutians  and  Kodiacks,  he  finally 
accomi)lished  it.  A  .varlike,  courageous,  and  cruel  race,  provided  with 
fire-arms  by  the  ships  of  the  North  AmericaJi  United  States  in  exchange 
for  otter-skins,  they  maintained  an  obstinate  struggle  against  the  inva<l- 
ers.  But  Jiaranott"  at  length  obtained  a  decisive  superiority  over  them. 
What  he  could  not  obtain  by  presents  he  took  by  force;  and,  in  spite  of 
all  opposition,  succeeded  in  founding  the  settlement  on  this  island.  He 
built  some  dwelling-houses,  made  an  intrenchment,  and  haN'ing,  in  his 
own  opinion,  appeased  the  Kalushes  by  i)rofuse  jn-esents,  confided  the 
new  con(picst  to  a^  small  number  of  Bussians  and  Aleutians.  For  a  short 
time  nuitters  went  on  i)ro8perously,  when  suddenly  the  ganisou  left  by 


*  LisiauHky ,  pp.  2«7-'-ia9. 

t  See  Voyage  of  D«iu  Jium  de  Ayalii;  Kuningtou's  Mist'oll.-tiiies,  Louflon,  178L 
t  Seci  Dixon's  Voyago, p.  183,  etveq. ;  Muichaud'»  Voyage,  by  Flemieu, Eug. Trans.,  vol.  i, 
p.  231,  d  ««/,  (I 


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54 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


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Baraiioff,  believiug  itself  in  perfect  safety,  was  attacked  by  great  nnm- 
beisj  of  KalMshes,  who  entered  tlie  intrenclimenta  withont  opposition, 
and  murdered  all  tliey  met  there  with  circumstances  of  atrocious  cruelty. 
A  few  Aieutiaus  ouly  escaped  in  their  little  baidars  (or  air-tight  canoes) 
to  KodJack„  where  they  brouglit  the  news  of  the  destruction  of  Sitka. 
This  took  place  in  1804,  at  the  period  that  Admiral  Krusenstern  made 
his  voyage  round  the  world,  and  his  second  ship,  the  Neva,  was  bound 
for  the  colony.  Earanoff  took  advantage  of  this,  and  with  three  armed 
vessels  he  accompanied  the  Neva  to  Sitka.  The  Kalushes  retired  at  his 
apitroach  to  tlieir  fortifications,  and  attempted  to  maintain  a  siege,  but 
tl»e  guns  from  tlie  ships  soon  caused  a  speedj  surrender.  They  were 
alloAved  to  retire  unmolested,  but  they  stole  away  secretly  on  a  dark 
night,  after  murdering  all  of  their  party  who  might  have  been  an  incum- 
brance to  them,  I'aranoff  thus  became  nominally  possessed  of  the 
islaiKl,  but  in  reality  of  a  hill  forming  a  natural  fortification,  and  form- 
erly inliabited  by  a  Kaiush  chief  i.alled  Katelan.  Tlie  savages  continued 
to  make  aggressions  on  the  llussians,  who  coidd  not  venture  beyond  tlie 
range  of  the  fortification,  which  Baranoff  had  rendered  perfectly  safe 
from  attack.  The  necessary  Ijouses  sprang  up  around  it,  and  the  settle- 
ment, under  the  name  of  New  Ar<!hangel,  became  the  capital  of  the  Eus- 
(^ian  A2neri<n)in  possessioiss.-  Such  is  the  history  of  this  isolated  but 
interesting  pJace.* 

Sitka  stands  on  tiie  northwest  point  of  a  bay  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  s<nind.    The  following  extract  will  give  a  sufllcient  idea  of  the  i)lace. 

'•The  soun(i  of  Sitka  is  formed  by  Mount  Cape  Edgcumbe  to  the  north, 
and  Poi'st  Wodehoase  to  tlie  wntb,  fourtecji  miles  apart;  the  former 
landmark  is  easily  distinguished,  iteing  a  dohicshaped  mountain,  evi- 
dently an  old  volcano,  capped  with  snow,  which  lines  its  red  sides  in 
stripes  from  its  ;!pex  down  to  its  center.'' 

The  following  description  of  Sitka  or  New  Archangel  Is  that  given  bj 
A.  (t.  Findlay,  esq.,  in  the  directory  Ibr  the  Pacific  Ocean,  1851; 

"  The  harbor  of  New  Ar(;hanfj:  d  is  formed  by  a  clusl.  r  of  small  islands 
immediately  in  front  of  the  seJtlement,  and  has  two  entrances,  one 
north,  and  the  other  soutlt.  Once  inside,  it  is  as  smooth  as  a  pond,  no 
port  can  be  safer;  and  it  is  inipreguaijle,  owing  chiefly  to  its  natural 
defenses,  though  the  Kussians  have  takefi  good  care  to  erect  batteries 
which  command  it  at  every  poimr.  Tlie  tmvu  or  settlement  is  built  on  a 
fiat  strip  of  land,  jutting  out  here  as  if  on  inirpose,  iVom  the  high  Ivelt  of 
mountains  which  form  the  extremity  of  the  sound.  The  goNeraor's 
house  is  i)erchod  on  a  rock,  about  eighty  feet  in  height,  and  is  one  lum- 
dred  and  forty  feet  long  by  seventy  wide;  of  two  good  atories,  roofed 
with  sheet  iron,  painted  red,  and  capi)?.d  i>y  a  Jight -houve,  whi<?h  can  Iw 
distinguished  by  vessels  at  sen.  The  whole  is  defend<  tl  by  a  battery 
which  commands  every  i>oint  of  the  harbor,  and  encircles  one-half  of  the 


*  See  Kotzebue'8  New  Voyage  Round  the  World,  vol.  ii,  pp.  l.'t&-14a. 


I 


w^^^^mmttm 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


56 


! 


house  to  the  southeast,  The  northwest  end  is  approached  by  a  flight  of 
steps.  Half  way  up  sentinels  are  placed  day  and  night,  and  here  also 
are  posted  brass  guns  on  light  field  carriages.  The  upper  story  is 
divided  into  one  grand  saloon  in  the  center,  flanked  by  a  drawing-room, 
and  billiard-room  at  one  end,  and  a  drawing-room  at  the  other ;  all  are 
well  proportioned,  painted,  not  papered,  and  the  walls  adorned  with 
good  engravings  of  British  victories  by  sea  and  land.  In  the  saloon  is 
ii  magnificent  full-length  painting  of  Nicholas.  Tlie  lower  story  contains 
(so  to  speak)  a  dining-room,  drawing-room,  study,  and  the  domestic 
establishment  of  the  governor  and  hi:s  lady.  The  dining-room  is  hung 
with  prints  of  English  towns,  principally  on  the  seaboard  ;  the  drawing- 
room  with  views  in  Switzerland  and  Germany.  The  whole  is  plainly 
and  substantially  furnished,  and  heated  with  stoves  of  the  continental 
custom.  This,  as  well  ns  all  other  houses,  is  built  of  wood,  immense 
logs,  dovetailed  into  each  other,  squared  and  painted. 

'•  The  arsenal  is  the  next  object  which  arrests  the  attention  of  a  stran- 
ger, from  the  number  of  men  employed  either  buildirg  new  or  repairing 
old  vessels.  At  this  moment  they  are  building  a  new  steamer,  destined, 
I  think,  for  Mr.  Leidesdorff,  of  California.  The  workmanship  appears 
good  aTid  solid;  everything  for  her  is  made  on  the  spot,  for  which  pur- 
I)ose  tliey  have  casting-houses,  boiler-makers,  cooi)ers,  tnrners,  and  all 
the  other  ers  requisite  for  such  an  undertaking.  The  boiler  is  almost 
completed,  and  is  of  <  ;)i)er.  They  have  also  their  tool-makers,  workers 
in  tin  and  bi'ass,  chai  i  «'iigriivers,  sawyers,  and  saw-mills,  for  all  which 
occupations  suitable  estjiblisliments  have  been  erected. 

"  The  climate  is  moist;  out  <•<  fourteen  day^  there  were  only  two  upon 
which  rmutical  observations  could  l>e  made ;  ose  two  were  as  fine  and 
as  warm  as  are  experienced  in  any  country."* 

It  was  visited  by  Sir  George  Simpson  on  his  overland  journey  around 
the  world,  in  1842, 

"  Sitka,  (the  late)  Governor  Etholine's  residence,  consisted  of  a  suite  of 
apartments  communicating,  according  to  the  Russian  fashion,  with  each 
other,  all  the  public  rooms  being  handsomely  in,  nished  and  richly  deco- 
rated. Itcomiiianded  a  view  of  the  whole  establishment,  which  was,  in 
fact,  a  little  village;  while  al)out  half  way  down  the  rock  two  batteries 
on  terraces  frowned  resi)ecti\ely  over  the  land  and  the  water.  Behind 
the  bay,  whidi  forms  the  harbor,  rise  stupeiulous  hills  of  conical  niount- 
aius,  with  summits  of  everlasting  snow.  To  seaward,  Mount  Edgcumbe, 
also,  in  the  form  of  a  eone,  rears  its  truncated  peak,  still  remembered  as 
the  source  of  smoke  and  flame,  of  lava  and  ashes;  but  now  known — so 
various  are  the  emergencies  of  nature — to  be  the  repository  of  theaccu- 
malated  snows  of  an  age. 

*'Wesat  down  to  a  good  dinner  in  the  French  stylC;  the  party  in  addi- 
tion to  our  host  ixml  hostess  (the  latter  a  pretty  and  ladylike  woman  from 


Nnntical  Mngazine,  Jiiue,  1849,  pp.  310-311. 


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56 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


Helsingfxirs,  iii  Finland)  and  ourselves,  comprising  twelve  of  the  com- 
pany's officers.  We  afterwards  visited  the  schools,  in  which  there  were 
twenty  boys  and  as  many  girls,  principally  half-breeds ;  such  of  the 
childreti  as  were  orphans  were  supported  by  the  comjiany,  and  the  others 
by  their  parents.  The  scholars  appeared  to  be  clean  and  healthy.  The 
boys,  on  attaining  the  proper  age,  would  be  drafted  into  the  service, 
more  particularly  into  the  nautical  '^"anch  of  the  same,  and  the  'girls 
would,  in  due  time^  become  their  wives,  or  the  wives  of  others. 

"  Nor  did  religion  seem  to  be  neglected  at  Sitka,  any  more  than  educa- 
tion. The  Greek  church  had  its  bishoi),  with  lifteen  priests,  deacons, 
and  followers ;  and  the  Lutherans  had  their  clergyman.  Here,  as  in 
other  parts  of  the  emi)ire,  the  ecclesiastics  were  all  maintained  by  the 
imperial  government,  without  any  expense,  or  at  least  without  any  direct 
expense,  to  the  Russian-American  Comi)any. 

"  The  good  folks  of  New  Archangel  appear  to  live  well.  The  sur- 
rounding countr^  abcmnds  in  the  cheveril,  the  finest  meat  I  ever  ate, 
with  the  single  exception  of  the  moose;  while  halibut,  cod,  herrings, 
flounders,  and  manj"  other  sorts  of  fish  are  always  to  be  Imd  for  the 
taking  in  unlimited  (juantities.  In  a  little  stream  (Indian  River)  which 
is  within  a  mile  of  the  port,  salmon  are  so  plentiful  at  the  proper  season 
that,  when  ascending'  the  river,  they  have  literally  been  known  to  embar- 
ras  the  moven^euts  of  a  canoe.  About  one  hundred  thousand  of  the  last 
mentioned  fish,  equivalent  to  fifteen  hundred  barrels,  are  annually  salted 
for  the  use  of  the  establishment;  they  are  so  inferior,  however^  in  rich- 
ness and  fiavor,  to  such  as  are  caught  further  to  the  southward,  that 
they  are  not  adapted  for  exportation."* 

Point  Woueiiouse,  as  previously  mentioned,  is  the  southM'cst 
point  of  Sitka  Sound.  An  extensive  group  of  islets  and  rocks  extend 
north-nortliwest  from  it  for  three  or  four  miles  from  the  shore,  which, 
from  that  point,  with  little  variation  takes  a  course  of  south  36°  east. 
This  part  of  the  coast  is  much  broken  into  small  oi)enings,  with  islets 
and  detached  rocks  lying  oft'  it. 

Port  Banks,  of  Captain  Dixon,  is  in  this  interval.  It  is  in  latitude 
50°  35',  and  the  following  are  Dixon's  remarks  on  it: 

"  The  prospect  at  Pi)rt  Banks,  though  lather  confined,  yet  has  some- 
thing more  pleasing  aiul  romantic  than  any  we  had  seen  on  the  coast. 
The  land  to  the  northward  and  southward  rises  sutticiently  to  an  eleva- 
tion to  convey  every  idea  of  winter;  and  though  its  sides  are  perpetually 
covered  with  snow,  yet  the  numerous  i)ines,  which  ever  and  anon  pop 
out  their  lusty  heads,  divest  it  of  that  dreary  and  horrific  cast  with  the 
barren  mountains  to  the  northwest  of  Cook's  River,  (Inlet.)  To  the 
eastward  the  land  is  considerably  lower,  and  the  i)ines  api)ear  to  grow 
in  the  most  regular  and  exact  order;  these,  together  with  the  brusli- 
Avood  and  shrubs  on  the  surrounding  beaches,  form  a  most  beautiful  con 


*  Sir  George  Siiupaou,  vol.  i,  pp.  219-221 ;  227. 


t 


}.:«*.;,.,. . 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


5.7 


trast  to  the  higher  hind,  and  render  the  appearance  of  the  whole  truly 
pleasing  and  delightful."* 

Cape  Omivianey,  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Sitka  Archipelago,  lies 
forty-five  miles  from  Point  Wodehouse,  and  has  been  previously  de- 
scribed. 

Thus  the  entire  circuit  of  this  archipelago  has  been  imperfectly  noticed. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  Sitka  Sound,  by  George  Davidson, 
esq.,  assistant  United  States  Coast  Survey,  from  a  report  made  November 
30,  18G7: 

"  Sitka  Sound. — Between  the  south  point,  formed  by  Biorka  Island 
and  Cai)e  Edgcumbe,  lying  north  40°  west,  and  south  40°  east,  twenty- three 
miles  from  each  other,  lies  the  entrance  to  Sitka  Sound,  having  a  depth 
of  ninety  fathoms  outside  the  middle  of  the  entrance,  and  very  bold 
water  in  every  direction. 

"  Biorka  Island  is  comparatively  low,  and  wooded,  about  two  miles  in 
extent,  north  and  south,  and  the  same  east  and  west.  It  has  a  sunken 
rock  one  mile  south  of  its  south  point,  and  several  islets,  but  along  its 
west  and  north  faces  the  water  is  thirty  ftithoms  deep  close  in  shore. 
On  the  north  face  of  Biorka,  one  and  a  half  mile  east  of  the  northwest 
point,  is  a  small  cove,  opening  to  the  northward,  with  soundings  of 
eleven,  nine,  and  seven  fathoms  laid  down  inside  the  heads.  Off  the 
entrance  to  this  cove  are  soundings  in  twenty-five  fjithoms  sandy  bottom. 
The  liussian  navigators  inform  me  that  this  would  make  a  good  pilot 
station. 

"  Two  miles  west  of  the  islet,  which  lies  off  the  northwest  point  of 
Biorka,  is  a  single  sunken  rock,  where  a  heavy  sea  breaks  only  once  every 
five  or  six  minutes.  It  is  said  to  have  ten  feet  of  water  on  it;  and  if  so, 
must  be  very  pointed. 

"  Tlie  Ilussian  navigators  inform  me  that  they  have  repeatedly  watched 
the  break  upon  it,  and  that  the  rocky  patch  of  i\early  a  mile  in  extent 
laid  down  on  the  English  chart  Xo.  2337  of  Sitka  Sound  does  not  exist. 
All  the  adjacent  islands  are  low  and  wooded,  but  the  main-land  is  well 
marked  by  very  high  mountains.  , 

"  Cape  Edgcumbe  is  notedly  marked  by  the  extinct  volcano  of  Mount 
Edgcumbe,  bearing  north  52°  east,  four  miles  distant  from  the  extremity 
of  the  cape.  The  shores  are  covered  with  timber  to  the  edges  of  the 
bold  high  bluffs  of  rock  and  lava,  fringed  with  innumerable  rocks.  The 
cape  presents  the  ai)pearance  of  a  wooded  plateau,  extending  to  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  interrui^ted  only  by  two  small  hills  between  the 
cape  and  mountain.  But  the  great  feature  and  landmark  is  the  moun- 
tain itself,  which  is  peculiarly  marked,  and  has  no  counterpart  in  this 
region. 

"  It  rises  two  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  the  top,  forming  the  rim  of  an  ancient  crater,  appears  nearly  hori- 
zontal, and  has  a  diameter  of  two  thousand  feet  by  my  measurements. 

'  Dixou,  p.  195.    (Juue,  1787.) 


,:j.'.^    Iv.;".)';;^: 


58 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


The  sides  from  the  sammit  down  have  a  gentle  and  regular  inclination  ot 
about  25°,  are  marked  by  deep  furrows,  destitute  of  trees  or  herbage, 
and  present  in  sunlight  a  dull  reddish  appearance.  In  winter  it  is 
covered  with  snow.  It  is  situated  upon  Krouzof  island,  of  which  the 
south  and  east  sides  form  the  north  and  west  shores  of  Sitka  Sound, 
and  the  passages  northward,  while  its  north  side  forms  the  south  shore 
of  Klokacheva  Sound.  Tobenkoff  gives  a  view  of  the  mountain  and 
cape. 

''  From  Cape  Edgcumbe,  the  north  shore  inside  the  entrance  to  the 
sound  runs  a  general  and  nearly  straight  course  of  north  85°  east  for 
seven  miles  to  Etmoloi  Point,  or  Point  of  Shoals,  off  which,  at  tl.a  dis- 
tance of  a  mile,  lie  the  low  island  and  rocks,  with  a  passage  repc'-ted 
between  the  point  and  island.  Nearly  midway  between  these  points, 
and  one  and  a  half  mile  olf  shore,  lies  the  moderately  high  wooded  island 
of  St.  Lazara  or  Cape  Island,  with  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  fathoms  of 
water  between  it  and  the  shore. 

"The  south  shore  inside  the  entrance  to  Sitka  Sound  is  broken  by 
innumerable  rocks  and  low  wooded  islets,  and  indented  by  Large  bajs. 
The  whole  shore  is  covered  with  spruce,  making  it  difficult  to  dis- 
tinguish the  islands.  No  sunken  rocks  are  known  to  exist  nearer  the 
entrance  than  Williams's  Bank,  five  and  a  half  miles  north- northeast 
from  the  northwest  point  of  Biorka,  and  lying  some  distance  off  the  low 
islands  inside.  The  bank  api)ears  to  consist  of  four  or  five  sunken  rocks, 
upon  some  of  w^hich  the  sea  invariable'  breaks. 

"Within  the  entrance  the  sound  contracts  its  width  to  six  miles 
between  Point  of  Shoals  and  Williams's  Bank,  with  deep  water  to  and 
inside  that  line.  From  Point  of  Shoals  to  Bouranoff  Point,  forming 
part  of  the  south  shores,  the  bearing  is  south  80°  east,  the  distance  seven 
and  a  half  miles ;  and  on  this  line  the  sound  is  contracted  by  the  Low 
Island  and  rocks,  one  mile  distant  from  Point  of  Shoals ;  by  theVitskari 
and  adjacent  rocks,  three  miles  distant;  by  the  Kulichoff  Eock  and 
adjacent  sunken  rocks,  five  miles  distant  from  this  same  point.  Deep 
channels  exist  between  Low  and  Vitskari,  Vitskari  and  Kuli(;hoff,  and 
Kulichoff  and  the  islets  off  Bouranoff  Points,  with,  however,  dangerous 
rocks  in  the  latter.  But  the  channel  invariably  used  by  the  Russians  is 
that  between  Vitskari  and  Kulichoff.  On  the  English  chart  this  channel 
is  erroneously  contracted  by  the  laying  down  of  a  sunken  reef  extending 
one  mile  east  of  Vitskari,  nearly  on  the  line  towards  Kulichoff.  The 
Russian  captains  inform  me  that  they  can  and  have  passed  Vitskari  along 
its  southeast  face  within  half  a  cable's  length  when  steering  a  direct  course 
to  Mochnati,  a  course  north  62°  east,  true.  We  have  mai.e  it  close  aboard 
when  coming  in  at  evening,  with  very  thick,  heavy  weather  from  the 
southeast,  and  saw  no  breakers  to  indicate  such  a  reef,  in  fact  were  misled 
by  not  finding  the  breakers.  We  have  also  seen  it  from  the  south-south- 
east, when  there  was  no  breaker  off  its  eastern  face,  but  the  breakers  on  the 
reef,  one  mile  north  of  it,  really  appeared  to  be  breaking  off  the  eastern 


■/ 


r 


I 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


59 


face  of  the  rock.  It  appeared  to  me,  from  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two, 
to  be  about  forty  yards  long,  and  ten  feet  above  high  vfater,  with  a 
rongh  irregular  surface.  In  smooth  Aveather  it  has  been  landed  upon, 
and  I  have  already  recommended  that  a  light  be  placed  upon  it,  as  from 
this  point  it  would  illuminate  an  arc  of  the  horizon  beyond  the  sound  from 
56°  west  toward  Biorka  Islarul,  south  88°  west  toward  Cape  Edgcumbe, 
and  be  a  guide  to  clear  the  rock  oft'  Biorka.  From  the  northwest  point 
of  Biorka  it  bears  north  fio  east,  distant  seven  miles.  From  the  rock  off 
Biorka  it  bears  north  21°  east,  distant  seven  and  a  half  miles. 

"  Kulichoff"  Kock  is  laid  down  on  the  English  chart  south  10°  east, 
two  miles  from  Vitsk.ari.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  high,  and  less  in  extent 
than  Vitskari.  There  are  sunken  rocks  to  the  north  and  south-south- 
west of  it,  about  half  a  mile  distant,  and  one  towards  Vitskari,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  oft",  with  deep  water  and  dangerous  sunken  rocks 
between  the  Kulichott"  and  the  islets  off  Point  Bouranoft".  But  Teben- 
koff  and  the  old  Kussian  charts  place  the  Vitskari  and  Kulichoft*  three 
miles  apart,  while  the  latest  unpublished  llussian  examinations  about 
Kulichoff  place  the  reef  a  short  distance  north  of  the  rock,  with  a  pass- 
age of  twelve  fathom 8  between  them  and  close  to  the  rock.  The  English 
chart  places  Kulichoff'  more  than  two  miles  from  Bouranoff,  but  the  latest 
llussian  determination  makes  it  only  one  and  a  half  mile.  I  forward  to 
you  the  old  Eussian  chart,  upon  wlii(;h  are  placed  the  unpublished  results 
of  late  Russian  examinations,  kindly  lurnished  me  by  Prince  Maksoutoff". 

"  For  four  miles  inside  of  Vitskari  l;ock  we  find  clear,  deep  water,  up 
to  the  range  of  wooded  islands  and  rocks  lying  for  two  miles  outside  of 
Sitka.  Through  this  barrier  of  islands  there  are  three  channels  to  the 
anchorages  east  and  west  of  the  town.  These  passages  are  known  as 
the  eastern,  middle,  and  westward,  the  former  being  the  longest,  and 
the  middle  one  the  shortest,  to  either  anchorage.  In  approaching  these 
islands  in  thick  weather  the  officers  of  the  company  endeavored  to  find 
the  island  of  Mochnati,  which  is  from  twenty  to  thirty  f'^'^t  high,  rocky, 
and  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  spruce,  whose  dark  foliage,  with  the 
black  rocks  beneath,  brought  out  in  relief  by  the  surf  breaking  along 
its  front  aiul  on  the  outlying  rock,  makes  it  discernible  through  the  fog 
when  other  islands  are  invisible.  This  isleulies  between  the  middle  and 
western  channels,  and  a  vessel  making  it  can  take  either  and  safely  run 
then  for  the  anchorage.  When  the  fog  is  lifting,  from  the  coming  in  of  a 
westerly  wind,  this  island  appears  first.  Abreast  of  Mochnati  the  west- 
ern channel  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  with  a  large  reef, 
bare  at  low  water,  forming  the  western  side,  and  the  middle  channel  is 
contracted  by  sunken  and  exposed  rocks  to  a  much  narrower  entrance. 
The  English  (!hart,  based  upon  that  of  La  Peronse,  gives  a  good  idea  of 
the  channels  and  the  anchorages,  which  should  only  be  entered  under 
the  guidance  of  a  pilot,  or  with  good  local  knowledge. 

"  It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  the  labyrinth  of  channels 


T 


60 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


and  islets  passing  in  every  direction,  like  tentacula  from  the  sound,  yet 
a  few  items  may  not  be  without  interest. 

"A  good  passage  exists  between  the  north  part  of  the  sound  and  the, 
eastern  end  of  Klokacheva  Sound,  which  enters  from  the  Gulf  of  Alaska, 
in  latitude  58°  20',  and  continues  through  Peril  Straits  to  Chatham 
Straits.  We  have  made  several  examinations  through  these  waters,  anil 
changed  materially  their  shapes  on  the  English  chart.  Cross  Bay  was 
furnished  me  in  manuscript  by  Prince  Maksoutoff,  and  Hayward  Harbor 
was  made  by  Mr.  Blake  when  examining  that  locality  for  reported  mag- 
netic iron  ore. 

"  The  Newski  Passage,  between  Olga  Strait  and  Peril  Strait,  is  quite 
narrow,  and  has  sunken  rocks  upon  its  shores.  Mr.  Mosman  made  a 
series  of  soundings  through  it,  indicating  plenty  of  water.  This  rough 
sketch,  from  compass  bearings  throughout  in  a  rain-storm,  makes  the 
strait  narrower  than  laid  down  on  the  charts.  With  a  thorough  survey 
of  this  strait  and  of  Klokacheva  Sound  another  entrance  is  afforded  to 
Sitka  Sound  to  vessels  driven  north  of  Cape  Edgcombe  by  heavy  soutli- 
easters,  or  by  the  currents  in  light  airs. 

"  The  indications  of  my  small  local  triangulation  about  Sitka  harbor 
proper  would  seem  to  show  that  the  base  line  of  the  original  survey  was 
erroneous,  and  this  may  possibly  explain  the  announcement  on  the  Eng- 
lish chart  that  '  there  are  discrepancies  between  this  chart  and  the  plan 
of  Sitka  (2348)  which  cannot  be  adjusted.' 

"  The  harbor  of  Sitka  is  very  contracted,  and  in  the  western  anchorage 
numerous  mooring  buoys  have  been  laid  dowii  by  the  Russian- American 
Company  near  the  town,  although  this  part  of  the  harbor  is  narrow  and 
marked  by  three  sunkcii  rocks.  The  eastern  harbor  receives  the  greater 
sweep  of  the  southeastern,  and  a  heavy  swell  is  said  to  be  brought  in 
from  the  sound,  so  that  the  company's  vessels  like  to  anchor  in  the  west- 
ern, as  they  can  discharge  more  readily,  and  especially  because  during 
tile  winter  the  officers  and  crews  are  taken  from  the  ships,  which  are 
left  with  only  one  keeper.  But  the  British  men-of-war  use  the  eastern 
harbor. 

"  In  the  great  gale  of  October  28, 1857,  the  severest  at  this  place  for 
very  many  years,  three  or  four  vessels  broke  adrift  from  their  moorings, 
and  several  were  driven  ashore.  The  steamship  John  L.  Stephens 
dragged  her  anchor,  but  having  steam  up,  and  getting  her  anchor, 
steamed  through  the  throat  connecting  the  two  anchorages,  and  anchored 
in  nine  fathoms  in  the  eastern  harbor,  where  she  rode  out  the  gale  easily, 
and  afterwards  experienced  great  difficulty  in  getting  her  anchor,  so  Arm 
a  hold  had  it  taken  in  the  tenacious  bottom  of  mud  and  shells.  The 
Stephens  is  an  old  Panama  steamer,  very  high  out  of  water,  and  had  but 
one  anchor  of  two  thousand  pounds. 

"  From  the  Coast  Survey  tidal  observations  of  two  months,  from  Au- 
gust 21  to  October  21,  we  find  the  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  to  be 
seven  and  eight-tenths  feet,  and  at  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon 


v'-'f 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


61 


eleven  and  nine-tenths  feet.  The  extreme  range  observed  dnring  the 
above  i)eriod  was  thirteen  feet,  and  tlic  least  range  two  and  one- 
tenth  feet.  The  Eussian  charts  and  anthorities  give  the  rise  and  fall 
between  fourteen  and  fifteen  feet,  and  this  is  the  accepted  fact.  ThQ 
English  chart  states  '  H.  W.  F.  and  C,  0  h.  34  m. ;  spring  rise  five  to 
seven  feet.'  Our  determinations  of  the  tide  give,  therefore,  an  im- 
poitiuit  correction  to  establish  opinionsand  authorities  upon  this  subject. 

"  Sitka  is  the  principal  establishment  of  the  Itussian-American  Com- 
pany, and  comprises  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  good  blockhouses, 
storehouses,  barracks,  workshops,  sawmills,  churches,  hospital,  and  the 
governor's  headquarters.  It  contains  nine  hundred  and  sixty-eight 
inhabitants,  of  which  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  are  Itussians,  ana 
the  remainder  Creoles  or  half-breeds  and  Aleutians.  Outside  the  stock- 
ade are  forty  large  Indian  houses,  facing  the  western  harbor,  and  occu- 
pied by  not  less  than  one  thousand  Kalushes  during*  the  winter.  The 
site  of  the  town  is  cramped,  and  it  is  a  mere  question  of  time  and 
expansion  when  these  Indian  houses  will  be  removed.  For  years  the 
Russians  have  had  about  a  dozen  guns  directed  along  the  face  of  the 
Kalushian  village. 

"The  geographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  astronomical  station, 
at  the  head  of  the  ship  yard  and  near  the  new  United  States  barracks, 
is  latitude  57°  02'  51" ;  longitude,  135°  IC  25.5" ;  or  in  time,  9  h.  01  m. 
05.7  s. ;  magnetic  declination,  28°  4G.7'  east,  in  August  1867. 

"The  harbor  of  Sitka  being  contracted,  exposed  to  severe  southeast 
gales,  difliicult  of  access,  and  having  no  extent  of  land  fit  for  cultivation, 
the  question  has  been  raised  wlu'lher  a  better  harbor  cannot  be  found 
in  the  vi(!inity  aftbrding  safe  anchorage,  of  easier  access,  and  greater 
space,  with  surrounding  soil  that  maj'  be  cultivated." 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  Eemark  Book  of  Commander  R.  W. 
Meade,  jr.,  commanding  United  States  steamer  Saginaw,  December, 
18G8. 

"  Sitka  Harbor  and  Approaches. — The  latitude  of  Sitka  is  57°  03' 
north,  and  longitude  135°  10'  west,  (approx.)  Time  of  H.  W.  F.  and  C,  0  h 
34  m.  Rise  of  tide,  mean,  eight  feet ;  s])rings,  fourteen  feet.  Variation  of 
compass  28°  30'  east.  The  tides  in  their  rise  are  extremely  irregular. 
The  harbor  is  formed  by  a  chain  of  islands,  and  there  ai"e  three  princi- 
pal ship  channels,  viz,  west  channel,  middle  channel,  and  east  channel, 
of  which  the  safest  for  sailing  vessels  is  the  east  or  broad  channel,  the 
other  two  being  narrow  and  somewhat  tortuous.  Pilots  may  be  readily 
jirocured,  the  charge  for  men-of-war  being  four  dollars  per  foot,  the 
pilot  taking  the  ship  outside  of  Biorca  Island,  or  Cape  Edgcumbe*  or 
Kruzov  Island.  It  is  recommended  to  strangers  to  take  a  pilot  if 
possible.  The  pilots,  however,  go  out  in  small  bo.ats  and  in  bad  weather 
will  not  venture,  as  a  very  heavy  sea  rolls  into  the  outer  bay.  Inside  of  the 
islands  the  sea  is  always  smooth.  The  best  landmark  for  making  the 
Bay  of  Sitka  is  Mount  Edgcumbe,  two  thousand  eight  hundred  feet 


•"^^ 


/^ 


62 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY 


high,  Avliicli  is  tlie  extinct  crater  of  a  tremendous  volcano,  and  can  be 
seen  miles  out  at  sea,  the  Hummit  being  covered  with  t  .ow  nearly  all  the 
year  round.  When  inside  of  Cape  Edgcumbe,  steer  for  Harbor  Moun- 
tain, a  prominent  peak  baek  oftiie town,  bringing  itto  bear  north-north- 
east one-quarter  east,  and  passing  Vitskari  island  on  port  hand,  carefully 
avoiding  a  dangerous  reef  of  rocks  (above  water)  on  starboard  hand, 
which  bear  east-northeast  from  Vitskari  Island,  distant  two  and  one- 
quarter  miles.  When  fairly  up  with  the  chain  of  islands  which  form  the 
harbor,  and  when  the  Halibut  Kocks  are  on  the  starboard  beam,  steer 
east-northeast  one  half  east,  a  mid-channel  course  for  eastern  entrance, 
borrowing  nu)st  on  the  starboard  shore,  carefully  avoiding  Liar  liocks. 
Wheu  up  with  the  Mista  Island  the  course  is  north-northeast  three- 
quarters  east,  and  the  channel  is  comparatively  clear.  When  the  citadel 
of  Sitka  bears  west  one-quarter  north,  steer  for  it  until  it  is  about  one 
mile  distant,  when  it  is  well  to  keej)  the  port  (south)  shore  aboard,  to 
avoid  a  ledge  ofrocks  and  boulders  off  In  J'an  Kiver.  The  anchorage  for 
men-of-war  near  Japan  Island  will  then  be  i)lainly  seen,  and  the  vessel 
may  take  any  berth  she  pleases,  but  it  will  be  requisite  to  moor.  The 
best  plan  in  my  judgment  is  to  moor  with  an  anchor,  and  forty-five  fath- 
oms cable  laid  at  northeast,  and  the  port  anchor  and  thirty  fathoms  laid 
out  west  and  put  on  the  swivel.  If  it  becomes  necessary  to  prevent  the 
ship  from  swinging,  a  kedge  dropped  astern  will  effect  this.  The  only 
really  violent  winds  come  from  northeast  to  east,  clearing  off  with  squalls 
from  the  westward ;  or  a  vessel  may  nu)or  with  port  anchor  northeast, 
starboard  southeast,  and  a  kiidge  astern  to  westward.'' 

We  now  return  to  the  northward,  taking  up  the  description  at  Cape 
Spencer,  the  point  where  Cross  Sound  termiiuites. 

From  Cape  Spencer  the  coast  takes  a  direction  of  northwest.  It  is 
steep  and  entire,  well  wooded,  and,  with  the  exception  of  one  sjuall 
opening  between  it  and  Cape  Fairweather,  appears  not  likely  to  afford 
shelter  for  shipping.  The  coast  is  comidetely  bounded  at  a  little  dis- 
tance by  steep,  compact  mountains,  which  are  a  continuation  of  the 
same  undivided  range  stretching  from  the  eastward. 

Cape  Fairweatheu  is  placed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  58°  50^',  lon- 
gitude 137°  50'.  This  cape  cannot  be  considered  as  a  very  conspicuous 
promontory,  it  is  most  distinguished  when  seen  from  the  southward,  as 
the  land  to  the  west  of  it  retires  a  few  miles  back  to  the  north,  and  there 
forms  a  bend  in  the  coast,  and  is  the  most  conspicuous  point  eastward 
of  Cape  Phipps,  at  Behring's  Bay  to  the  northward. 

Mount  Faibweatheu  is  one  of  the  most  renuirkable  mountains  on 
the  northwest  coast  of  America.  It  isi)laced  in  latitude  58°  54',  longi- 
tude 137°  38',  an<l  nine  miles  from  the  nearest  shore.  Captain  Cook 
says:  "This  mountain  is  the  highest  of  a  chain,  or  rather  ridge  of  moun- 
tains, that  rise  at  t^ie  northwest  entrance  of  Cross  Sound,  and  extend  in 
a  northwest  direction,  parallel  with  the  coast.  These  mountains  were 
wholly  covered  with  snow  (in  May,  1778)  from  the  highest  summit  down 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


63 


to  tlipi  sea  ooast,  (which  was  twelve  leagues  distant,)  some  few  places 
exctipte*!,  when  we  could  perc(4ve  trees  rising,  as  it  were,  out  of  the  sea ; 
and  which,  therefore,  we  snjjposed  grew  on  low  laud,  or  on  islands  bor- 
dering on  the  shore  of  the  continent." 

Captain  Tortlock  says  of  it :  "This  mountain,  or  rather  ridge  of  nu)un- 
tains,  as  it  forms  into  several,  is  by  far  the  highest  land  on  this  ])art  of  the 
coast,  much  loftier  than  Mount  lydgijumbe,  and,  1  thiidv,  nearly  the  height 
ofMountSt.  Elias."» 

From  Cape  Fairweather  to  Cape  rhipi)s,  at  the  entrance  of  Tlehring's 
Bay,  the  distance  is  seventy-three  miles;  the  intermediate  coast  is  a  low 
border  extending  from  the  base  of  the  mountains,  well  wooded,  and  in 
Bome  parts  appears  to  bo  much  inundated,  the  waters  tinding  their  way 
to  the  sea  in  shallow  rivulets,  through  two  or  three  breaks  in  the  beach. 

It  is  between  these  points  that  Cook,  who  sailed  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  shore,  considered  that  there  was  an  appearance  of  an 
extensive  bay,  and  a  wooded  island,  off  the  south  point  of  it,  in  latitude 
59°  18',  and  where  lie  supposed  that  Commodore  Behring  anchored.t  A 
close  examination  of  it  by  Vancouver,  however,  has  dispelled  these  views: 
"But  in  this  neighborhood  no  such  bay  or  island  exists,  find  Captain 
Cook  must  have  been  led  into  the  mistake  by  the  gieat  distance  at  which 
he  saw  the  coast,  in  consequence  of  which  he  was  prevented  from  noticing 
the  extensive  border  of  low  land  that  stretches  from  the  foot  of  the  vast 
range  of  lofty  mountains,  and  forms  the  sea-shore.  The  irregularity  of 
the  base  of  tliese  mountains,  which  retire  in  some  places  to  a  considerable 
distance,  and  especially  in  the  part  now  alluded  to,  would,  on  a  more 
remote  view  than  we  have  taken,  lead  the  most  cautious  observer  to  con- 
sider the  appearance  on  the  coast  as  indicating  tleep  bays  or  openings, 
likely  to  afford  tolerable,  and  even  good  shelter;  and  had  it  not  been  for 
the  information  we  had  previously  re<;eived  from  ^h\  Brown,  who  had 
been  close  in  with  these  shores,  we  should  have  still  supposed,  until  thus 
far  advanced,  that  we  had  Behring's  Bay  in  view,  with  an  island  lying 
near  its  southeastern  part.  This  deception  is  occasioned  by  ramification 
of  the  mountains  stretching  towards  the  ocean,  and  terminating  in  a  per 
pendieular  cliff",  as  if  at  the  sea-side,  having  a  more  elevated  part  of  the 
low  border  covered  with  wood  lying  to  southwest  of  it ;  the  former,  at  a 
distance,  appears  to  form  the  east  point  of  an  extensive  bay,  and  the 
latter  an  island  lying  off  from  it ;  but  both  these  are  at  the  distance  of 
some  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  Avhich  hence  takes  a  direction  of  north- 
west by  west  three-quarters  west,  and  is  chiefly  composed  of  a  very  low 
tract  of  land,  terminating  in  sandy  beaches ;  over  which,  from  the  mast- 
Lead,  were  seen  considerable  pools  or  lagoons  of  water,  communicating 
with  the  ocean  by  shallow  breaks  in  the  beach,  across  all  of  which  the 
sea  broke  with  much  violence.    Where  this  low  country  was  not  inter 


*  Portlock,  p.  256, 

t  Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol.  ii,  p.  347 ;  and  Mullet's  Voyages  et  D^couvertes  des  Rusaes, 
pp.  248-254. 


64 


ALASKA   DIRECTORV. 


Bected  by  the  inland  waters,  it  was  tolerably  well  wooded ;  but  as  wo 
advanced  to  the  eastward,  this  border  l)ocame  less  extensive,  was  more 
elevated,  inu<*h  less  covered  with  wood,  and  for  a  few  miles  totally  des- 
titut-t^  of  either  wood  or  verdure ;  and  composed  of  naked  fra;;nients  of 
rocks  of  various  majj^nitudes,  lying,  as  it  were,  in  the  front  of  Mount 
Fairweather."     (Vancouver,  vol.  iii,  pp.  L*08,  L'09.) 

Behind  this  sui^posed  bay,  or  rather  to  the  south  of  it,  the  chain  of 
mountains  is  interrupted  by  a  plain  of  a  few  leagues  in  extent ;  beyond 
which  the  sighr,  was  unliniited.  Vancouver  says:  "The  interruption  on 
the  summit  of  these  very  elevated  mountains  was  conspicMiously  evident 
to  us  as  we  sailed  along  the  coast  this  day,  and  looked  like  a  plain  -om- 
posed  of  a  solid  mass  of  ice,  or  frozen  snow,  inclining  gradually  towards 
the  low  border;  which,  from  the  smoothness,  uniformity,  and  dean  ap- 
pearance of  its  surface,  conveyed  the  idea  of  extensive  waters  having 
existed  beyond  the  then  limits  of  our  view,  which  had  passed  over  this 
depressed  part  of  the  mountains,  until  their  progress  had  been  stoi)ped 
by  tlie  severity  of  the  climate,  and  that  by  the  accumulation  of  succeed- 
ing snow,  freezing  on  this  body  of  ice,  a  barrier  had  becorned  formed, 
that  had  prevented  such  waters  from  flowing  into  the  sea.  This  is  .lot 
the  only  place  where  we  had  noticed  the  like  appearances.  Since  piv,  '..5 
the  Icy  Bay,  to  the  east-northeast  of  Behring's  Bay,  other  valleys  had 
been  seen,  strongly  resembling  this,  but  none  were  so  extensive,  nor  was 
the  surface  of  any  of  them  so  clean,  most  of  them  appearing  very  dirty." 
(V^ancouver,  vol.  iii,  p.  209.) 

BEHRiNd's  Bay,  the  true  situation  and  character  of  which  Avas  first 
elicited  by  Vancouver,  runs  iidand,  to  the  northeast,  between  Cape  Phipps 
and  Point  Manby.  Captain  Cook,  supposing,  as  before  stated,  that  a 
bay  existed  to  the  southeast,  conceived  it  to  be  the  bay  that  Chetrow,  the 
amster  of  Behring's  fleet,  reconnoitred.  This  mistake  was  also  followed 
by  Captain  Dixon,  who  gave  the  name  of  Admiralty  Bay  to  that  in  (pies- 
tion ;  but  as  Behring  certainly  was  the  discoverer  of  a  bay  in  this  locality, 
and  there  being  but  one,  the  name  of  that  navigator  has  supplanted  that 
applied  by  Dixon. 

Cape  Piiipps,  the  southeasternmost  point  of  Behring's  Bay,  is  in  lati- 
tude 59°  33',  longitude  139°  47'.  About  two  miles  within  it,  the  coast 
taking  a  southeast  direction,  there  is  a  small  opening  in  the  low  land, 
accessible  only  for  boats,  near  which  was  found  an  Indian  village.  Cap- 
tain Sir  Edward  Belcher  states  that  he  was  driven  much  to  the  west- 
ward by  the  current  near  Cape  Phipps.     (Vol.  i,  p.  82.) 

Point  Turner,  which  is  a  low  narrow  strip  of  land,  forming  the 
southeast  point  of  the  island  that  protects  Pt)rt  Mulgrave  from  the  ocean, 
is  east  three-quarters  south,  two  and  three-quarter  miles  from  the  inner  or 
north  point  of  Cape  Phip])S.  About  a  league  east  one-third  north  from 
Point  Turner  is  a  point  on  the  main  land  which  is  the  east  end  of  a  round- 
ing bay,  about  four  miles  across  to  Cape  Phipps.  It  is  necessary  to  give 
a  good  berth  to  Cape  Phipps,  in  order  to  avoid  a  small  reef  that  stretches 


a 

se 

si( 

p: 

a 

CI 

A 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


65 


that 


J  the 
eau, 
ler  or 
from 
)iin(l- 
|>  give 
tchea 


from  it  into  the  «ea.  Cai>e  Turner,  on  tlie  contray,  is  bohl,  and  must  be 
kept  Homo  on  ^>ar<l,  for  the  pnri»osc>!  of  avoiding  the  Hhoals  that  lie  a 
little  distance  to  the  eastward  of  it:  between  these  shoals  and  tlu^  point 
j;ood  anehoriige  is  found,  in  eight  to  fourteen  fathoms,  clear  good  hold- 
ing ground. 

Tlio  rise  and  fall  of  tide  here  are  ab(Mit  nine  feet;  an«l  it  is  high  water 
about  thirty  minutes  after  the  moon  passes  the  meridian. 

Port  Mulgkave  lies  to  the  northeast  of  Point  Turner,  and  is  pro- 
tected from  the  ocean,  as  before  stated,  by  an  islaiul  lying  in  a  northeastern 
and  southwestern  direction. 

Tt  was  jjossibly  tlrst  discovered  by  Captain  Dixon,  June,  1787,  who 
named  it  after  that  nobleman.  It  contains  a  lunnber  of  snudl  low  islaiuls, 
which,  in  common  with  the  rest  of  the  coast,  are  entirely  covered  with 
Junes,  intermixed  with  brushwood.  To  the  iu)rth  and  west  are  high 
mountains,  covered  with  snow,  ten  leagues  distant.* 

It  was  visited  by  Sir  Edward  lielcher,  in  his  Majesty's  ship  Sulphur, 
who  staid  a  short  time  here.  Fish,  halibut,  and  salmon  of  two  kinds 
were  abundant  and  moderate,  of  wlii«!h  the  crews  purchased  and  cured 
great  quantities.  Game  very  scarce.  The  re.;yuns  of  the  Russian  estab- 
lishments were  observed;  a  block-house  pitched  on  a  cliff,  on  the  eastern 
side;  and  on  the  low  point,  wliere  the  astronomical  observations  were 
taken,  the  remains  of  another;  also  a  staff,  with  a  vane  and  cross,  over 
a  grave.  Sir  Edward  lieJ(!lier  says  that  a  good  leading  mark  for  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor  is  with  Mount  Fairweather  over  Cape  Turner  (or 
north  88°  east.) 

The  island  or  islands  before  alluded  to,  which  form  the  outer  face  of 
Port  Mulgrave,  and  of  which  Point  Turner  is  the  southwest  extremity, 
extend  for  eight  miles  in  leiigth.  They  are  almost  joined  to  the  conti- 
nental shore  b^'  a  spit  incommoded  with  many  rocks  and  huge  stones, 
but  leaving  a  very  narrow  channel,  by  which  Vancouver's  vessel,  the 
Chatham,  passed  from  one  part  of  the  inlet  to  the  other  from  the  north- 
ward. The  channel  leading  along  the  continent  was  found  on  examina- 
tion to  be  not  more  than  fifty  yards  wide,  though  nearly  at  high  water ; 
for  a  small  space  the  depth  was  only  fifteen  feet,  but  it  quickly  increased 
to  ten  fathoms,  and  then  to  seventeen  fathoms.  This  passage  is  about 
six  hundred  yards  long,  lying  from  the  (northern)  entrance  of  the  chan- 
nel south  00°  west  two  miles,  in  which  space  the  continental  shore  fonns 
a  small  bay,  and  to  the  southward  of  the  narrow  part  it  takes  a  nu)re 
southerly  direction ;  along  it  are  some  islets  and  rocks,  and  the  western 
side  of  the  channel  is  much  broken.  About  a  league  from  the  narrow 
l>art  the  depth  continued  to  be  from  seventeen  to  twelve  fathoms,  until 
a  shoal  was  reached  that  lies  right  across  the  jiassage,  on  which  the 
ChathaTu  grounded,  but  was  got  oft'  into  deep  water  without  anj-  damage. 
About  the  conclusion  of  the  ebb  a  boat  was  sent  to  examine  two  places 


5  A  D 


Dixon,  p.  170. 


66 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


OM  the  bar  that  were  not  dry;  one  of  these,  thoojjfh  narrow,  was  fouod 
to  be  sufficiently  deep  and  free  from  danger,  provided  ita  line  of  direction 
Y/as  n«ark<.^d  with  l)uoy8;  thiH  was  done,,  and  at  half  tiood  the  Chatliaui 
passed  through  it,  iiaving-  not  ]o,hh  Hum  three  fatlioms  water,  which  /soon 
after  deejjened  to  fifteen  fathonjs.  *  #  *  Thus,  by  persevering,  Mr, 
Puget  made  his  way  throu}jlj  a  channel  which,  though  lie  found  practi 
(iabie,  he  does  not  recommend  to  be  followed,  especially  as  the  eonununi- 
cation  between  Port  Mulgrave  and  the  ocean  is  easy  and  commodious  by 
the  j>assage  to  the  south  ami  westward  of  l^oint  Turner.  (Vancouver, 
vol.  iii,  pp.  228-0.) 

Knight's  Island  is  iive  miles  norHi-nortlieast  of  the  northern 
entrance  to  the  channel  jupt  (h'scribed.  It  admits  of  a  navigable  ])assage 
all  around  it,  but  there  ar<;  some  rocks  that  lie  about  half  a  mile  from  its 
west  point;  an<l  there  is  an  islet  situated  belween  it  and  the  main  laud, 
on  its  northeast  side. 

Eleanor's  Covk. — From  the  north  entrance  to  Port  Mulgrave  the 
continental  couat  takes  a  north  3{P  east  direction,  six  niiles,  to  this  co>'e, 
which  is  the  eastern  extremity  of  Behring's  i^ay.  It  is  protected  from 
the  westward  l>y  Knight's  Island,  which  is  about  two  miles  long  in  a 
jiortheast  and  southwest  direction,  and  about  a  mile  broad,  lying  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile  from  the  main  land. 

The  shore  here  is  low,  and  trends  about  north  14^  \yest  six  miles  to 
Point  Latouche,  the  southeast  limit  of  Digges's  Sound  or  Bay.  'This 
was  the  only  i»lace  in  th«>  bay  that  presented  the  least  prospect  of  any 
interior  navigation,  and  this  was  iwMessarily  limited  by  tlie  closely  con- 
nected range  of  lofty  snowy  mountains  that  .stret(rhed  along  the  coast  at 
no  great  distance  from  the  sea-side.  It  was  in  reality  found  to  be  closed 
from  side  to  side  by  a  iiiin  and  compact  body  of  ice;  l)eyond  which,  at 
the  back  of  the  ice,  a  small  inlet  appeared  to  extend  to  northeast  by  east, 
about  a  league.  The  depth  of  water  at  the  entrance  of  the  oi)cning  is 
great,  and  on  its  northeast  side  is  a  bay  which  atibrded  good  anchorage, 
but  had  a  most  dreary  as{)ect,  from  it.s  vicinity  to  the  ice,  ifotwithstand- 
ing  which  vege'tatiou  was  in  an  advanced  state  of  forwardness." — (Van- 
couver, July,  1794. 

The  two  points  forming  the  entrance  to  Digges's  Hound,  thus  named 
by  Vancouver,  are  blulf,  lying  nearly  cast  and  west  of  each  other,  half  a 
kague  asunder,  the  easternmost  of  them  being  Point  Latouche,  as  above 
uu^iitioned.  The  shores  are  composed  of  a  continuatioii  of  the  low  bor- 
der, extending  from  the  i'otit  of  the  mountain  to  the  seaside,  and  are 
bounded  by  frozen  ice  or  snow,  esi)ecially  in  the  sound. 

The  continental  coast,  forming  the  norlh  wide  of  Bhering's  Bay,  runs 
to  the  southward  of  west,  and  i*  nearly  straight  an»l  coiupact.  At  eight 
miles  from  the  opening  the  land  falls  back,  forming  a  snudl  bay,  with  a 
low  island  about  two  miles  long  to  the  north-northeast  of  it.  The  coast 
liere  trends  south  (KP  west  eiglit  miles,  aiul  then  south  8')°  west  two 
leagues,  to  Point  Mauby. 


If 
ic 
it 
fe 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


67 


Kune 


Point  Manby  forms  tlie  northwest  point  of  Behring's  Bay.  It  is  in 
latitude  50°  42',  longitude  140^^  13'.  To  the  eastward  of  it  the  country 
is  well  wooded,  and  proceeding;  northvrard  it  loses  its  verdant  and  more 
fertile  appearance;  the  coast  still  continues  to  be  a  low  compact  border 
of  ])lain  land. 

"On  the  evenhig  of  June  20,  1704,  the  Cliathani  (Vancouver's  ship) 
an'ived  off  Point  IManby ;  tlie  water  was  foniul  to  be  much  discolored  at 
tlie  distance  of  four  miles  from  the  shore,  where  bottom  could  not  be 
gained  with  tlie  hand-line,  nor  were  any  ripplings  or  oiher  indications  of 
shallow  Avater  or  hidden  dangers  noticed.  The  same  appearances  had 
been  observed  by  us  on  board  the  Discovery,  in  several  instances,  to  the 
eastwar<l  of  ('ai)e  Suckling,  (presently  described,)  which  I  concluded 
were  occasioned  by  the  vast  (luantity  of  fresh  water  produced  by  the 
dissolving  ice  and  snow  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  at  tliis  season  of 
the  year;  this,  draining  through  the  low  border  of  land,  becomes  impreg- 
nated with  the  soil,  and  being  specifically  lighter  than  the  sea-water  on 
which  it  floats,  produces  the  effect  noticed  by  Mr.  Puget.'"  This  remark- 
able effect  of  the  great  changes  in  the  temperature  of  the  climate  pro- 
duces most  extensive  alterations  in  the  form  of  the  coa&it,  as  will  be  noticed 
i>re8eitt|y. 

Point  Kiou  was  a  tolerably  well-marked  promontory  at  the  period  of 
Vancouver's  survey,  and  to  whom  it  owes  its  name.  He  describes  it  as 
beiuj;::  low,  mcII  m ooded,  w ith  a  small  islet  detached  at  a  little  to  the 
westward  of  it.  The  coast  is  still  composed  of  a  spacious  mjugin  of  low 
laml,  rising,  with  a  gradual  and  unifmii  ascent,  to  the  foot  of  the  still 
connected  ciiain  of  lofty  mountains,  whose  summits  are  but  the  base 
from  whence  Mo\int  8t,  Elias  towers  nnijestically  consjncuous  in  regions 
of  ]>erpetnal  frost.  Vancouver's  charts,  from  the  extensive  changes 
continually  going  on,  present  but  little  to  recognixe  in  this  p;nt  at  the 
present  period. 

U'Y  Bay  lies  to  the  northwest  of  what  was  Point  Uiou.  It  is  termi- 
nated by  steep  cliffs,  from  whence  the  ice  desceiuis  to  the  sea.  At  the 
eastern  side  of  the  bay  the  coast  is  formed  of  low,  or  ratlier  moderately 
elevited  lj\ind,  Its  west  point  is  a  high,  abrupt,  cliffy  point,  bounde«l  by 
a  soH<l  boily  of  ice  or  fro/.en  snow. 

This  ]>ortio)i  of  the  coast  was  visited  by  his  Majesty'.s  steamer  Sul- 
])hui',  in  her  voyage  around  the  Avorld,  in  1837,  and  the  following  are  fcVir 
Edward  Belcher's  rennuivs  made  during  that  vi.sit: 

"  Icy  Bay  is  very  aptly  ho  nanuHl,  as  Vancouvers  Point  Riou  nuinst 
liave  dissolved,  as  well  as  the  sjnall  island  also  mentioned,  and  on  which 
J  had  long  set  my  heart  a.'^  one  of  my  ]>rincii)al  iwsitions.  At  noon  we 
la«;ked  in  ten  iiathoms,  n\u«!,  having  passed  through  a  quantity  of  su\i\<Jt 
ice,  all  of  a  soft  nature.  Tln^  wliole  of  this  bay,  and  the  valley  above* 
it,  WR«  noM'  f(»und  to  be  eom5)os4'd  of  (apparentl.v )  snow  ice,  about  thirty 
feet  in  height  at  the  water  cliff.,  ajid  probably  based  on  a  low,  muddy 
beach  ;  the  wjiter  for  some  distance  in  contact  not  even  showing  a  ripple» 


68 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


I 


which,  it  occurred  to  me,  arose  from  being  charged  with  floating  vege- 
table matter,  probably  i>ine  bark,  &c. 

"  The  small  bergs,  or  reft  masses  of  ice,  forming  the  clifty  outlines  of 
the  bay,  were  veined  and  variegated  by  mud  streaks,  like  marble,  and, 
where  they  had  been  exposed  to  the  sea,  were  excavated  into  arches, 
similar  to  some  of  our  chalk  formations.  The  base  of  the  point  named 
by  Vancouver  Point  Kiou  probably  remains,  but  l>eing  free  for  some  dis- 
tance of  the  greater  bergs,  it  presented  only  a  low  sand  or  muddy  spit, 
with  ragged,  dirty-colored  ice,  grounded.  No  island  could  be  traced, 
and  our  interest  was  too  deeply  excited  in  seeking  for  it  to  overlook  such 
a  desirable  object. 

**  The  current  was  found  to  set  one  and  a  half  miles  per  hour  west, 
varying  but  slightly  in  force,  and  not  at  all  in  direction.  At  this  posi- 
tion we  anchored  in  fifty  fathoms,  mud,  near  Mount  St.  Elias ;  not  a  sin- 
gle drift  tree  was  noticed.  We  were  within  the  white  water  alK)ut  two 
miles,  which  1  am  now  satisfied  flows  from  the  ice,  but  why  it  ])reserves 
its  uniformity  of  strength  and  direction  is  yet  a  problem  to  be  solved."* 

Mount  St.  Elias  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  northwest 
America.  It  is  a  noble  conical  mountain,  rising  far  into  the  clouds,  and 
although  in  a  climate  far  from  temperate,  and  of  such  an  elevation  as 
to  lead  to  the  conclusiim  that  it  rinses  far  into  the  limits  of  perpetual 
snow,  yet  Sir  Edward  Belcher  says:  "Its  edges,  to  the  very  summit, 
present  a  few  black  wriiikles,  and  the  depth  of  snow  does  not,  even  in 
the  drifts,  appear  to  be  very  deei).  It  stands,  sis  it  were,  as  before  men- 
tioned, upon  the  summit  of  the  lofty  range  which  nujs  parallel  with  the 
sea-coast."  Its  elevation,  according  to  angular  measurement,  is  fourteen 
thousand  nine  hundrc<l  niul  eighty-seven  feet  above  the  sea,  and  even 
when  visible  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant  appears  to  be  a 
majestic  mountain.  Its  discoverer  was  the  celebrated  IJehring,  who  made 
the  const  here  on  the  2(>th  of  August,  17  H,  the  name  being  applied  from 
the  saint  to  whom  that  day  is  dedicated.  Its  latitude  is  00^  18'  north, 
longitude  140^  52'  west. 

Pamplona  Kock,  &c. — According  to  some  infornmtion  given  to  Van- 
couver's i)arty  by  the  Russian  otticers  be  nu»t  here,  there  is  a  very  dan- 
gerous rocky  shoal,  about  flft«»en  miles  in  length,  lying  by  compass  in  a 
direction  south  by  west,  sixty-three  miles  from  a  place  called  by  them 
Leda  llnala.  This  Mr.  l^uget  conceivi'd  to  be  near  the  point  called 
Point  Hiou.  The  Russian  oflic^er,  Portotf,  hiniself,  had  been  on  the  shoal 
taking  s<'a-otters,  and  stated  that  the  first  <liscovery  of  it  was  owing  to 
a  Russian  galliot  having  had  the  misfortune,  some  years  before,  to  ho 
wrecked  upon  it;  two  of  the  crew  were  drowned,  but  the  rest  escai)ed 
in  their  bouts.  After  that  period  an  annual  visit  had  been  nuide  to  it 
for  the  purpose  of  killing  sea-otters,  which  wen?  th<Te  met  with. 
.    From  the  Sjianiards,  jilso,  Vancouver  learned  that  a  very  dangerous 


•  Voyajfo  of  the  Sulphfir,  vol  1,  pp.  78-80. 


Wj 

ai 
tu 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


69 


Van- 

diin- 
*s  in  a 

them 
calkMl 

slioal 
iug  to 

to  bo 

M})0«1 

■  to  it 


rock  existed  in  this  iieighborliood,  the  situation  of  which  they  had  taken 
great  i)ains  to  ascertain,  and  had  fbund  it  to  lie  south  41^  east  from 
Cape  Suckling,  at  the  distance  of  twenty-six  leagues,  and  which  was 
called  by  them  Hock  Pamplona.  By  this  bearing  it  appears  to  lie  east- 
southeast,  eight  miles  distant  from  the  rocky  shoal  described  by  the 
liussians'above ;  here  it  niay  be  inferred  that  Portoft'  and  the  S[)aniards 
intende«l  the  same  shoal,  though  it  is  not  stated  by  the  latter  to  be  so 
extensive  as  by  the  former. 

It  is,  without  doubt,  dangerously  situated  for  the  navigation  of  this 
coast,  and  it  may  possibly  have  proved  fatal  to  ]\Ir.  Meares's  consort, 
Mr.  Tipping,  who,  with  his  vessel,  was  never  heard  of  after  leaving 
Prince  William's  Sound  in  1780. 

The  coast,  from  Icy  Bay,  extends  nearly  east  and  west  without  any- 
thing remarkable  for  forty  miles,  where  there  is  a  small  river,  calle<l  by 
the  Kussians  Kiko  Bolshe  Unala.  It  has  a  bar,  and  but  little  depth  of 
water. 

A  few  leagues  further  to  the  westward  is  another  small  river,  empty- 
ing itself  into  a  shallow  bay.  Its  entrance  is  obstructed  by  a  bar,  on 
which,  with  easterly  winds,  the  sea  breaks  with  gieat  violence,  and  in 
the  finest  weather  is  only  navigable  for  boats;  but  within  the  bar  the 
depth  increases  for  a  little  distance,  and  then  it  stretches  towards  the 
mountains. 

The  coast  between  this  and  Cape  Suckling  shoots  out  into  small  pro- 
jecting points,  with  sUternate  low,  cliffy  or  white  sandy  beaches,  being 
the  termination  of  a  border  of  low  woodland  conntry,  extending  some 
distance  Avithin,  until  it  joins  the  foot  of  a  closely  united  chain  of  h)fty 
frozen  mountains,  Avhich  is  connected  with  the  same  range  that  extends 
to  the  nortliAvestward  around  Prin.ce  William's  Sonnd  and  Cook's  Inlet. 
From  these  low  projecting  points  some  shoals  strel<;h  into  the  ocean. 
Vancouver  passed  one  of  these  at  the  distance  of  about  four  miles, 
sonnding  in  thirty-five  fathoms;  it  extends  in  a  southerly  direction  two 
mih's  from  a  low  point  of  land  that  forms  the  west  i)oint  of  a  bay,  ai>i>a- 
i*ently  very  shoal,  and  from  the  quantity  of  white  muddy  water  tluit 
flowed  from  it  into  the  sea  it  was  conclnded  to  iMi  the  tmtlet  of  the 
floods  formed  on  the  low  land  by  the  dissolving  ice  and  siiow  on  the 
sides  of  the  neighboring  mountains,  which,  at  that  season  of  the  year, 
(midsununer,)  nuist  be  copious,  as  the  temperature  was  generally  between 
50°  and  (550,  and  the  elevated  jvarts  of  the  coast  were  still  covered  with 
snow  as  low  down  as  where  the  pine  trees  began  to  grow.  From  the 
west  point  of  this  bay,  in  latitnde  <i(»o  :V  .')0",  longitude  UL'c  .54'  west, 
the  shore  towards  C'ape  Snckling  makes  a  small  bend  to  the  northwest- 
ward, but  the  general  direction  of  the  coast  is  nearly  east  and  west,  antl 
appears  to  be  firm  an<l  coinpact. 

Ca  PE  SuoKLiwa,  so  named  by  Cook  in  his  third  voyage,  is  conspicuous. 
Vancouver;  differing  much  from  Cook,  i»laees  it  in  latitnde  (KP  1',  longi- 
tude 143°  41',  but  is  determined  by  Lieutenant  Uai»er  as  longitmle  143° 


i 


70 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


54'.*  The  point  of  the  cape  is  low,  bat  within  it  ia  a  tolerably  high  hill, 
which  is  disjoined  from  the  mountains  by  low  kuid,  so  that  at  a  distance 
the  cape  looks  like  an  island. 

When  near  Cape  Suckling,  Captain  Sir  Edward  Belcher  says :  "  Our 
attention  was  siuldenly  attracted  by  the  peculiar  outline  of  the  ridge  in 
l)roflle,  which  one  of  our  draughtsmen  was  sketching,  ai)pareutl,T  toothed. 
On  examining  it  closely  with  a  telescope,  I  found  that  although  the  sur- 
face presenteil  to  the  naked  eye  a  comparatively  even  outline,  it  was 
actually  one  mass  of  small,  four-sided,  truncated  pyramids,  resembling 
salt-water  mud  which  has  been  exposed  several  days  to  the  rays  of  a 
tropical  sun,  (as  in  tropical  salt  marshes,)  or  an  immense  collection  of 
huts ! 

"  For  some  time  we  wore  lost  in  conjecture,  probably  from  the  dark 
ash.<;olor;  but  our  att-ention  being  drawn  to  nearor  objects,  and  the  sun 
leuding  his  aid,  we  found  the  whole  slope,  froiu  ridge  to  base,  similarly 
composed ;  and  as  the  rays  j)layed  on  those  near  the  beacli,  the  brilliant 
illumination  distinctly  showed  them  to  be  ice.  We  were  divided  between 
admiration  and  astonishment.  What  could  produce  these  special  forms ! 
If  one  could  tancy  himself  perched  on  ari  eminence,  about  five  hutuU«d 
feet  above  a  city  of  stjow-white  pyramidal  houses,  with  smoke  colored 
flat  roofs,  covering  nuniy  .s«}uare  miles  of  surface,  and  rising  ridge  above 
ridge  in  steps,  he  might  form  some  faint  idea  of  this  beautitiil  freak  of 
nature."t 

In  one  direction  from  tlie  southward.  Cape  Sur^cling  exhibits  on  its 
lower  profile  the  brow,  nose,  and  lips  of  a.  3nan,  It  is  a  low  neck,  stretch- 
ing out  from  a  mountainous,  isolated  ridge,  which  terminates  abovit 
three  miles  from  it  easterly,  where  the  fiats  of  the  ice  pyramids  just 
alluded  to  terminate.  Apparently  the  viver  or  opening  near  Cape  Suckling 
flows  around  its  base.  There  is  little  doubt  but  that  we  nsay  attribute 
the  current  to  this  outlet,  arising,  probably,  from  the  melting  of  the 
snow.  We  had  less  streugtb  of  current  after  passing  this  i^osition. 
Immense  piles  of  drift-wood  were  notice*!  on  each  side  of  the  opening, 
but  none  elsewhere.  Floating  trees  of  considerable  magnitude  were 
numerous,  and  one  was  jn'obably  two  hundred  feet  in  length.  The  cur- 
rent was  northerly;  and  the  water  within  three  mile.^  of  the  land  was 
whitish,  showing  a  distinct  division,  doubtless  snow  water  and  mud. — 
(Sir  Edward  Belcher.) 

Kaye's  Island,  to  the  west  and  southwest  of  the  cape,  is  long  and 
narrow.  Its  south  point,  mimed  by  Vancouver  Cape  Hannind,  is  very 
remarkable,  being  a  naked  rock,  elevated  considerably  above  the  lan<l 
within  it.    There  is  also  an  elevated  rock  lying  off  it,  which,  from  some 


III 


It  may  be  pnsmisod  that  th«>  charts  <lrawu  up  by  Vancouver  were  found  by  Sir 
Edward  Btdcher  to  be  plainly  i-rroneous  about  tliit*  r«>?ion.   All  lii«  trantiit  Iwarin^Hand 
other  observations  indicated  this.    A  riv«fr  apjxuirs  to  tlow  near  Cap«  Kuckliug,  which 
Jja«  not  b»'«'n  noticed. — Voyage  of  the  Sulplmr,  vol,  i,  p.  175. 
t  Voyage  of  the  Sulphur,  vol.  i,  pp.  75,  76. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


71 


X)oint8  of  view,  appears  like  a  mined  castle.  Towards  the  sea  the  islfiiul 
terminates  in  a  kind  of  bare,  sloping  cliffs,  with  a  narrow,  stony  l)each 
at  their  foot,  and  interrnpted  with  some  gnllies,  in  each  of  which  is  u 
rivnlet  or  torrent,  and  the  whole  surmonnted  with  a  growth  of  smallish 
pine  trees. 

"  Kaye's  Island,  viewed  from  the  eastward,  presents  the  appearance 
of  two  islands.  The  southern  is  a  high  table-rock,  free  from  trees  or 
vegetation,  and  of  a  whitish  hue;  the  other  is  moderately  high  land  for 
this  region,  with  three  bare  peaks,  its  lower  region  being  well  wooded. 

"At  dawn  the  snowy  ranges  of  mountains,  from  the  termination  of 
Montagu  Island  as  far  as  Cape  Suckling,  or  in  the  direction  of  Kaye's 
Isljind,  were  entirely  free  from  clouds  or  vapors,  a  sight  not  common  in 
these  regions,  and  generally  a  warning  for  bad  weather,"  (Sir  Edward 
Belcher,  vol.  i,  p.  70.)  '  ♦ 

WiNGHAM  Island. — Off  the  northwest  point  of  Kaye's  Island  is  Wing- 
ham  Island,  and  off  its  northeast  point.  Point  Mesurier,  are  some-ele- 
vated rocks.  Witliin  these,  and  to  the  northwest  of  Cape  Suckling,  is 
t'Omptroller's  Bay,  which  is  shoal,  and  extends  twenty  miles  northwest- 
ward to  Point  Hey. 

Wingham  Island,  which  can  be  seen  to  nearly  its  whole  length  between 
Caiw?)  Suckling  and  Point  Le  IMesurier,  (the  north  part  of  Kaye's  Island,) 
is  moderately  elevated,  rising  in  three  hummocks,  which  are  bare  on 
their  summits.  The  southern  at  a  distance,  owing  to  the  lowness  of  the 
neck,  appears  separated.  The  whole  is  well  clothed  with  trees.  (Sir 
Edward  Bel<;her.) 

Fkince  William's  Sound  was  first  explored  by  Captain  Cook  in  his 
last  voyage.*  Although  this  extensive  inlet  was  before  known  to  the 
Eussians,  the  coast  took  him  ten  days  to  traverse,  11th  to  21st  May, 
1778,  a  week  of  wjiich  was  spent  in  the  inlet;  but,  from  the  subsequent 
survey  of  Captain  Vancouver,  it  was  found  that  no  portion  of  his  cele- 
brated predeces.sor'8  labors  was  so  defectively  described  and  delineated 
as  this,  which  leads  to  the  8up[)ositiou  that  some  important  authority 
has  been  omitted  in  drawitug  up  the  narrative,  which  would  not  have 
occurred  had  the  unfortunate  circumnavigator  survived  to  superintend 
its  publication.t  From  the  njinute  examination  which  was  made  of  it 
by  Vancouver,  it  proved  to  be  a  branch  of  the  ocean  that  reciuires  the 
greatest  circumspection  to  navigate;  and  although  it  diverges  into 
many  extensive  anus,  yet  none  of  them  can  be  considered  as  commodious 
harbors,  on  account  of  the  rocks  and  shoals  that  obstruct  the  aj)proache8 
to  them,  or  of  the  very  great  d<^ptli  of  water  about  their  entrances.  Of 
the  former  innumerable  were  discovereil,  which  led  to  the  supposition 
that  many  others  existed. 

*  Piiiu'o  Williain's  Souixl,  niid  ]»artic'iilarly  it.s  iinrthfiwt  |mrt,  w.w  visitcMl  by  Sour 
Fidalgo,  in  I7IK),  for  tb<»  ]>urp<mo  of  tiKiuiriug  into  tiie  uuttire  and  extent  of  the  KuHsiau 
cutabliHluiientH  in  Micnv  regionH. 

i  Siw  CooIc'h  Tlilnl  Voyage,  vol.  ii,  pp.  353-3t]ri;  and  Vanconver,  vol.  iii,  pp.  193,  »94. 


i^.'fv^j/r'-^.v.-.T'tWa' 


72 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


I 


The  northeast  point  of  the  coast,  where  the  sound  commences,  is  Cape 
Witshed,  which  is  forty-three  miles  from  Point  Rey,  last  described,  the 
coast  between  being  fronted  by  a  very  extensive  sandtlat.  The  on^ward 
coast  of  the  sound  is  formed  by  Hiiichinbrook  and  Montagu  Islands ; 
between  and  to  the  west  of  which  are  the  entrances  to  it. 

IIiNCHiNBBOOK  ISLAND  is  the  uortheasternmostof  those  before  Prince 
William's  Sound.  Its  northeast  point,  named  Point  Bentinck,  is  opposite; 
to  Point  Witshed,  a  league  asunder,  the  space  between  occupied  by  a 
low,  barren,  |iniuterrupted  sand  at  low  water,  being  a  continuation  of 
the  sand-bank  extending  from  Comptroller's  Bay,  and  also  along  the 
coast  to  the  northeast  of  Piunt  Witshed.  It  is  dry  at  Tow  water,  but 
at  high  water  it  was  stated  that  there  is  a  boat  channel,  though  Van- 
couver's party  found  the  whole  space  occupied  by  a  most  tremendous 
surf,  rendering  any  p^wisage  at  that  time  impracticable.  Cape  Hinchin- 
brook,  the  southwest  point  of  the  island,  is  twenty  miles  southwest  of 
Point  Bentinck,  and  is  placed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  00°  10^',  longi- 
tude (corrected)  146°  '21'.  In  a  direction  vsouthwest  one-half  south,  seven 
miles  from  the  cape,  is  a  barren,  tiat,  rocky  islet,  with  several  rocks 
lying  at  a  small  distance  from  it.  Tliis  lies,  therefore,  off  the  entrance 
to  the  sound  between  llinchinbrook  and  the  northeast  end  of  Montagu 
Islands. 

Between  Montagu  and  Hiiichinbrook  Islands,  Captain  Sir  Edward 
Bel(;her  found  shoal  water,  contrary  to  Vancouver's  idea,  rendering  it 
necessary  to  anchor  in  seventeen  fathoms ;  the  tide  running  at  three 
knots.* 

Port  ExniiEst  is  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  into  the  sound, 
consequently  on  the  southwestern  entl  of  llinchinbrook  Island.  The 
depth  ott'  the  north  point  of  entrance  is  very  great ;  no  bottom  with  one 
hundred  fathoms  could  be  found  within  a  ipiarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore. 
Off  this  point  are  some  rocky  islets,  antl  there  are  some  within  the 
entrance,  (the  Porpoise  Itocks,)  and  until  these  are  p.ist,  there  is  nodei)th 
for  anchorage.  On  the  north  side  of  the  port  is  a  lagoon,  (Constantine 
Harbor,)  within  which  Vancouver  found  a  llussian  establishment,  on  a 
situation  comnmnding  the  low  narrow  peninsula,  and  formed  in  179.'t, 
when  some  ship-building  was  being  carried  on.J 

Port  Etches  was  visited  by  her  Majesty's  ship  Sulphur  in  August, 
18^37.    In  the  account  of  the  voyage  is  the  following:  "This  establish- 

•  Sir  K.  IJckher,  vol.  i,  p.  70. 
t  t  Tort  Etches  di'iivts  its  namo  from  Iiiclianl  Ciulinnu  EtchcH,  a  nicrclinnt,  wlui,  with 
othiTs,  entered  into  a  tradinj;;  partnership,  (May,  ITS'),)  nnder  the  title  of  the  Kinj; 
fjeorge's  Sound  Company,  for  earryinj;  on  the  fur  trade  on  this  eoast,  having  procnretl 
a  lieenHe  for  this  purpoHe  from  the  South  Si-a  Company.  Tlie  voyajfes  of  C^iptains  I'ort- 
lo«-.k  an<l  Dixon,  in  tli<>  Kin;;  (ieorgu  and  (jueeii  Charhitte,  in  and  HuhHe«piunt  to  17d5, 
wtiro  undertak4!n  for  thiM  eomitany. 

t  Upon  Garden  iHhind,  Cai>tain  Hehdier  found  a  line  that  whh  marked  hy  Portloek, 
July  '22,  1787,  and  wiw  very  nearly  dchtroyin^t  it.  (Belcher,  vol.  i,  p.  7:1.)  At  present 
the  idlund  is  covered  with  piuu  trees,  without  muuy  traces  of  the  garden. 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


73 


mciit  of  the  Imperial  Russian  Fur  Company  consists  of  the  official  resi- 
dent, eight  Russians,  and  fifty  Aleiitian  and  other  allies.  The  houses  are 
included  in  a  substantial  wooden  quadrangle,  furnished  at  its  sea  angles 
with  two  octagonal  turrets,  capped  in  tlie  old  English  style,  and  pierced 
with  loop-holes  and  ports;  the  summits  of  the  lines  are  armed  with 
spikes  of  wood.  It  is  calculated  to  stand  a  tolerable  siege,  under  deter- 
mined hands.  The  sleeping  apartments,  or  '  'tween  decks,'  as  we  should 
term  them,  are  desperately  lilthy.  The  whole  range  is  warmed  by  Dutch 
ovens,  and  the  sides,  being  eighteen  inches  in  thickness,  are  well  calcu- 
lated to  withstand  the  cold,  as  well  as  to  defy  musketry. 

"The  native  allies,  who  live  in  huts  outside,  are  filthier  than  the 
Esiiuimaux;  arising,  doubtless,  from  their  life  of  inactivitj',  resulting 
from  doubtful  dependence.  I  was  taken  through  the  fish  and  oil  estab- 
lishment, which  was  inches  deep  in  hardened  filth  and  seal  oil,  and 
thence  to  the  room  containing  peltry.  I  was  much  disappointed  at  the 
quality  of  the  furs.  They  comprised  sea-otter,  sable,  rat,  squirrel,  fox, 
bear,  wolf,  seal,  and  beaver,  verj^  large  and  heavy.  The  only  desirable 
skins  were  those  of  the  sea  otter  and  sable,  and  they  were  not  first-rate. 
As  it  is  strictly  forbidden  to  sell  anything,  and  our  visit  bound  us  in 
honor  not  to  perndt  anything  of  the  sort,  I  felt  little  inclination  to  remain 
in  this  valuable  repository."* 

Port  Etches  might  furnish  a  most  complete  harbor,  if  vessels  frequent- 
ed these  regions,  or  a  station  should  ever  be  required  in  so  high  a  lati- 
tude. The  currents,  however,  between  it  and  Mo'itagu  Island  render  it 
difficidt  to  ai)proach;  and  the  Russian  commandant  stated  that  many 
sunken  ro«;ks  (but  perhaps  of  ten  or  fifteen  fathoms)  lie  off"  Cape  Hinchiu- 
brook.  Cai)tain  Belcher's  observations  make  Vancouver  nearly  as  much 
in  error  in  longitude  as  he  ascribes  to  Cook.t 

Phipps  Point,  the  northeast  or  opposite  extremity  of  the  i)eninsula, 
on  which  is  the  Russian  establishment,  is  placed  by  Sir  Edward  Belcher 
in  latitude  (JO^  21'  12"  north,  longitude  UVP  50'  15"  west.  High  water, 
full  and  «;hange,  Ih.  loui. ;  rise,  nine  and  a  half  feet.  Variation,  31°  3S' 
east. 

Hawkins's  Island  is  to  the  northeast  of  Hinchinbrook  Island,  and  is 
about  twenty  mileslong,  northeast  and  southwest.  On  its  southern  side  is 
the  channel  before  mentioned,  which  is  contracted  by  the  sand-bank  on 
the  southeast  shore  to  a  narrow  channel  against  the  southern  shore  of 
the  island.  Off  the  entrance  of  the  passage,  between  the  west  end  of 
Hawkins's  Island  and  Hinchinbrook  Island  is  a  shoal,  and  in  the  passage 
are  some  islets  and  roc.  s. 

On  the  nortii  side  of  Hawkins's  Island  is  Port  Cordova,  an  arm  extend- 
ing from  its  northwest  point  about  thirteen  miles  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion. Within  these  limits  are  a  bay  and  a  small  l>ra;ich,  in  which  are 
sevend  rocks  and  rocky  islets.    These  shores  arc  in  general  low,  ending 

*  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  vol.  i,  p.  73. 
t  Ibid.  vol.  i,  p.  74. 


*", ''  ^  ■'  .WW"'  P  i-  ^if»i}wnw^m,^  ^mmj^m^v .'" 


74 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


in  pebbly  Reaches,  where  shoal  water  extends  some  distance,  and  ren- 
ders landing  at  low  tide  very  unpleasant.  To  the  northward  is  I'ort 
Gravina.  The  southeast  point  of  its  entrance  is  placed  by  Vancouver 
in  latitude  00°  41',  longitude  140°  11  J'.  To  the  southwest  of  it  are  an 
islet  and  some  rocks.  Its  northern  shore  extends  from  its  west  point  east 
five  miles,  and  then  east  by  south  one-half  south  twelve  or  thirteen  miles, 
affording  some  small  coves,  with  rocks  and  islets  lying  off  it,  and  then 
turns  to  north-northeast  for  four  and  one-half  miles  to  its  termination. 
Its  east  and  south  shores  are  encumbered  with  islets  and  rocks. 

Snug  Corner  Bay  is  on  the  northwest  end  of  the  peninsula  separating 
Ports  Gravina  and  Fidalgo.  Its  west  point  is  in  latitude  00°  45',  longi- 
tude 140°  35'.  "  And  a  very  snug  place  it  is  ;  I  went,  accompanied  by 
some  of  the  officers,  to  view  the  head  of  it,  and  we  found  that  it  was 
sheltered  from  all  winds,  with  a  depth  of  water  from  seven  to  three 
fathoms,  over  a  muddy  bottom.  The  land  near  the  shore  is  low,  part 
clear  and  part  wooded." — (Captain  Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  361.) 

Port  Fidalgo  is  so  named  after  the  Spanish  commander  who  visited 
it  in  1790.  It  extends  in  a  winding  direction  to  latitude  00°  55',  longi- 
tude 145°  48';  its  width  being  about  two  miles,  and  its  length  twenty- 
eight  miles.  Towards  its  upper  end  are  some  islands,  and  its  shores  are 
in  general  low,  bounded  by  a  pebbly  beach,  and  pleasingly  diversified  by 
trees. 

A  small  inlet  rins  in,  two  miles  in  a  north-northeast  direction,  at  the 
northwest  point  of  Port  Fidalgo;  and  south-soutwest  one-half  west  four 
and  a  half  miles  from  its  west  point  is  the  south  end  of  Bligh's  Island ; 
between  this  island  and  the  main  land  are  some  islets  and  rocks.  The 
shores  are  also  rocky.  Bligh's  Island  is  seven  miles  long  north-northeast 
and  south-southwest,  and  some  islands  off  its  north  end  form  the  southern 
side  of  the  entrance  to  Puerto  de  Valdes. 

Puerto  de  Valdes  was  so  named  by  Seuor  Fidalgo,  and  extends 
northeast  by  north  for  twelve  miles,  where  a  small  brook,  supplied  by  the 
dissolving  snow  and  ice,  flows  into  the  arm,  and  from  thence  extends  five 
miles  in  an  east  direction  to  its  termination,  in  shallow  water.  Its 
eastern  shores  are  indented  with  small  bays,  and  lined  with  nx'-ks  and 
islets.  The  port  is  from  half  a  league  to  a  league  in  breadth.  Its  west 
point  is  called  Point  Freemantle,  and  is  in  latitude  G0°  57',  longitude  146° 
49'.  This  inlet  was  thought  by  some  of  the  party  under  Captain  Cook 
to  form  the  entrance  to  an  inlet  extending  indefinitely  to  the  northeast, 
but  which  opinion  was  controverted  (justly)  by  others. 

Southward  of  Port  Freemantle  is  an  island  seven  miles  long,  in  a  south- 
west by  west  direction,  and  a  league  broatl;  within  it  is  a  passage  half 
a  league  wide;  and  on  its  continental  shore  are  two  bays;  that  immedi- 
ately north  of  Point  Freemantle  is  the  larger  of  the  two,  with  an  island 
in  the  northeast  corner.  "It  is  a  circumstance  not  uuwort  hy  of  remark 
in  these  bays,  so  near  as  they  are  to  each  other,  that  the  eastern  one  pre- 
sents a  southern  and  the  other  a  southeastern  aspect;  and  that  the  western- 


fn 
an 
sti 


til 

nal 

twf 

del 

coj 

pel 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


75 


l»y  the 
(Is  five 
r.  Its 
ka  and 
ts  west 
ule  146° 


a  south- 
age  half 
iinmedi- 
n  island 
■  remark 
one  pre- 
western- 


most  should  be  nearly  free  from  ice,  while  the  easternmost,  with  a  full 
south  expostire,  should  be  terminated  by  a  solid  body  of  compact  elevated 
ice;  both  being  equally  bcjuded  at  no  great  distance  by  a  continuation 
of  the  high  ridge  of  snowy  mountains." — (Vancouver,  vol.  iii,  p.  185, 
June,  1794.)  In  passing  the  eavSternmost  of  the  bays,  the  thundering 
noise  of  the  falling  (or  caving)  of  large  masses  of  ice  was  heard. 
•  Westward  of  the  island  before  mentioned  is  an  arm  extending  about 
four  leagues  to  the  north,  and  terminating  at  the  foot  of  a  continuation 
of  the  range  of  lofty  mountains.  Its  upper  parts  were  much  encumbered 
with  ice,  (.June,  1704,)  as  were  both  sides  of  it  with  innumerable  rocks 
and  some  islets.  It  is,  in  general,  about  a  league  wide,  and  its  western 
(!oast  terminates  to  the  south  or  Point  Pellew,  and  from  this  the  coast 
takes  an  irregular  direction,  about  west-southwest  ten  miles,  toward  the 
east  point  of  a  passage  leading  northward.  The  shores  which  compose 
this  extent  of  coast  are  formed  by  a  low  border  of  land  extending  from 
the  base  of  the  nu)untains,  much  indented  by  small  bays,  and  at  high 
tide  greatly  intersected  by  water.  It  produces  a  few  dwarf  trees  and 
other  insignificant  vegetable  productions,  and,  like  other  parts  of  the 
continent  bordering  upon  the  sound,  is  bounded  by  small  islands,  islets, 
and  rocks,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  discern,  rendering  the  progress 
of  the  boats  tedious  and  intricate. 

From  the  i)oiut  before  mentioned  a  channel  extends  about  three 
leagues  in  length  to  the  northwest  one-half  north.  This  in  some  places  is 
a  mile,  and  in  others  not  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad;  its  west  side  formed 
by  Esther  Island.  Four  miles  north  from  its  further  end  is  Point  Paken- 
ham,  which  is  the  southwest  point  of  Port  Wells.  This  extends  in  a 
north-northeast  direction,  and  terminated  in  a  firm  and  compact  body 
of  ice,  but,  at  the  time  of  the  visit,  was  so  encumbered  with  floating 
masses  of  ice  that  it  was  highly  dangerous  to  proceed  in  it.  Here  the 
party  witnessed  the  falling  of  three  tremendous  bodies  of  ice  from  the 
clifts,  the  shock  of  one  of  which  was  sensibly  felt,  though  two  leagues 
distant.  To  the  west  of  the  point  is  another  but  unimportant  bay.  Hence 
the  coast  pursues  a  southerly  direction  five  leagues  to  Point  Pigot.  The 
continent  is  here  composed  of  a  stupendous  range  of  snowy  mountains, 
from  whose  base  low  i)rqjecting  land  extends,  jutting  out  into  points, 
and  forming  the  shores,  which  are  thinly  wooded  with  dwarf  pines  and 
stunted  alders. 

Point  Pigot,  and  Point  Cochrane,  opposite  to  it,  form  the  entrance  to 
Passage  Canal.  The  principal  branch  extends  from  Point  Pigot  west 
thirteen  miles,  and  then  southwest  by  south  four  miles  further,  termi- 
nating in  latitude  60°  48'.  Here  the  head  of  the  inlet  reaches  within 
twelve  miles  of  Turnagain  Arm^  at  the  head  of  Cook's  Inlet,  hereafter 
described.  On  either  side  of  the  isthmus  the  country  appeared  to  be 
composed  of  lofty,  barren,  impassable  mountains,  enveloped  with  per- 
petual snow.     The  isthmus  itself  is  a  valley  of  some  breadth,  which, 


7« 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


thou^li  containing  elevated  land,  was  very  free  from  snow,  (in  June,)  .and 
appeared  to  be  perfectly  easy  of  access.  By  it  the  Russians,  and  Indians 
also,  connnunicated  with  either  of  these  extensive  sounds.  The  other 
branch  extends  two  andahalf  lea<;ues  west-southwest  from  Point  (Joch- 
rancj  which  is  one  and  a  half  mile  south  from  Point  ]M{;()t.  Eight  miles 
east  by  south  from  Point  Cochrane  is  Point  Culross,  and  immediately 
east  of  the  former  is  a  large  bay,  about  three  miles  deep,  terminating  in' 
a  boundary  of  frozen  snow  and  i(!e,  reaching  from  a  compact  body  of 
lofty  frozen  mountains  to  the  water's  edge.  JJero  it  was  singular  that 
the  shores  between  these  icy  bays  are  mostly  composed  of  a  border  of 
very  low  land,  well  wooded  with  trees  of  the  i>ine  and  alder  tribes, 
stretching  from  the  base  of  stuijciulous  mountains  into  the  sea. 

Otf  Point  Culross  is  an  island  about  a  league  from  the  shore,  and  about 
four  miles  long;  and  following  the  coast  southward  for  six  nules,  we 
arrive  at  an  opening  about  two  miles  wide,  leading  to  thi\'e  small  branches, 
two  of  them  taking  a  southerly  and  the  third  a  northwesterly  course. 
From  the  south  point  of  the  entrance,  eleven  miles  along  a  shore  broken 
into  small  bays,  lined  by  innumerable  rocks,  and  exposed  <^o  the  ^vhole 
range  of  the  northeast  swell  from  the  sound,  brings  you  to  Point  Nowell, 
in  latitude  00°  27'. 

Between  this  coast  and  the  ocean  is  a  considerable  number  of  large 
islands,  which  lie  generally  in  a  north-northeast  and  south-southwest 
direction.  The  coast  of  the  continent  runs,  but  in  a  very  irregular  man- 
ner, in  the  same  direction  to  Cape  Paget,  in  latitude  59°  55',  longitude 
148°  3',  this  being  tlie  point  where  the  shores  of  the  main  land  form  the 
seaward  face.  The  continental  coast  will  be  first  described ;  then  the 
islands  before  it. 

From  Point  Nowell  the  main  coast  turns  to  southwest  one-half  south 
for  about  eleven  miles,  to  a  point  where  an  arm  extends  first  northwest, 
and  then  terminates  to  the  south,  in  a  circular  basin  full  of  rocks;  but 
about  midway  between  the  point  and  this  are  two  arms  extending  par- 
allel to  each  other,  and  four  miles  long,  in  a  northwest  direction.  Before 
this  coast  is  an  island,  following  its  direction  at  two  miles  distant,  and 
three  and  one-half  leagues  hmg,  forming  a  passage,  but  so  full  of  rocks 
that  it  is  only  navigable  for  boats  or  canoes.  Five  and  one-half  mih's 
southeast  from  the  south  point  of  the  arm  first  mentioned  is  Point 
Countess,  in  latitude  00°  1.3'.  Immediately  west  of  it  is  an  opening 
leading  southward,  and  terminating  in  two  small  arms,  a  league  within 
the  entrance.  Still  further  west  is  a  bay  about  four  and  one-half  miles 
deep,  tenninating  in  a  compact  body  of  ice  that  descended  from  high 
perpendicular  clitt's  to  the  water-side.  The  coast  southward  of  Point 
Countess  forms  the  northwest  side  of  a  narrow  channel,  eleven  miles  in 
length,  in  a  southwest  one-half  west  direction.  It  is  in  most  parts  less 
than  a  mile  broad,  and  there  are  several  sunken  rocks  in  it.  Its  shores 
are   comi)08ed  of  steep  rocky  mountains.     The  north   point  of  the 


i 


lo 
isl 


17! 

IIU) 

tiiii 
ot) 
tb. 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


77 


Ml  tlie 


Before 
nt,  and 
f  rocks 
f  miles 

Toint 
)peuing 
within 
f  miles 
•m  high 
)f  Point 
miles  in 
iirts  leas 
s  shores 

of  the 


southern  end  of  this  strait*  is  7^>int  Waters;  it  has  some  roeks  and 
breakers  before  it.  This  point  is  on  the  eastern  side  oi  INirt  IJaiubridge, 
an  inlet  from  tlie  ocean,  extending  eighteen  miles  in  length  from  its 
entrance,  in  a  north  direcition.  Its  termination  is  in  latitude  OOo  i;{^', 
in  a  small  tiact  of  low  land,  before  Avhich  are  some  rocks.  Froyi  its 
being  directly  open  to  the  ocean,  althongii  at  this  distance  from  it,  the 
wind,  when  it  sets  up  or  down  the  channel,  sends  such  a  violent  sea  upon 
it  that  lainling  is  dangerous.  V<  .nt  l*yke,  on  the  western  side,  is  six 
miles  from  Point  Waters;  it  is  remarkable  for  its  sugar-loaf  form. 
Between  them  are  two  bays,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lotty,  abrupt, 
snowy  mountains.  South-soutlieast,  five  miles  from  Point  Pyke,  is  Point 
Elrington,  the  southeastern  i)oiiit  of  Port  Bainbridge,  and  the  south- 
westernmost  i>art  of  a  high,  rugged  cluster  of  islands.  It  is  a  high, 
steep,  barren  i)romoutory  of  small  extent,  connected  to  the  island  near 
it  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  which  was  covered  with  various  kinds  of  sea- 
fowl.  Between  these  points  are  some  bays,  and  a  large  opening  leading 
northeast,  with  many  rocks  al)out  the  shores,  just  .above  water.  Oppo- 
site to  Point  Elrington  is  Cape  I'uget,  before  mentioTU'd,  on  the  main 
land.  The  western  shore  of  the  poi  northward  of  Cape  I*uget,  is  com- 
pact, although  somewhat  indented  with  snmll  luiys  and  coves. 

The  island  of  which  Points  Elrington  and  Pyke  form  a  portion  is 
high  and  rugged,  and  about  six  leagues  in  lengtli,  in  a  general  nortli- 
iu)rthea8t  direction.  Latouche  Island  lies  otf  its  eastern  si«le,  separated 
by  a  channel  half  a  league  broad.  Its  northern  point  is  nanuMl  Point 
Grace.  Knight's  Island  lies  to  the  northward  of  these,  and  is  upwards 
of  nine  leagues  in  length  in  the  same  direction;  and  beyond  this,  again, 
are  some  others  of  less  dimensiims. 

Between  this  and  Montagu  Island  is  Green  Island,  so  named  by  Cook, 
in  May,  1778^  from  its  being  entirely  free  from  snow,  and  covered  witli 
wood  and  verdure.  The  islands  near  the  open  sea  are,  as  before  stated, 
elevated  and  rocky;  tl  ose  within  are  low  ones.  Otf  the  north  point  of 
Green  Island,  a  league  or  a  league  and  a  half  noith,  are  some  ledges  of 
rocks,  some  above  and  others  under  water,  making  it  very  unsiife  plying 
in  this  neighborhood. 

Montagu  Island  is  the  largest  and  principal  island  of  Prince  Wil- 
liam's Sound,  it  being,  a(!Cording  to  Vancouver's  survey,  forty-six  nnles 
in  length,  from  southwest  by  south  to  northeast  by  north ;  its  average 
breadth  is  about  two  leagues.  Its  south  point  is  in  latitude  59°  40', 
longitude  147°  30'.  The  passage  on  the  inside,  or  to  northwest  of  the 
island,  forms  an  entrance  into  Prince  William's  Sound,  between  it  and 
Lsitouche  and  Green  Islands,  of  course  varying  in  breadth. 

*It  wjis  in  this  Mtrait  that  Vautouver's  party  encountered  a  violent  Htonn,  June, 
1794;  a  very  heavy  gust  of  wind  brought  down  from  a  coiiHideralde  heiglit  on  the 
mountain  Hide  an  immeurte  nniHs  of  earth,  trees,  and  frozen  snow,  whieh  fell  at  a  dis- 
tance not  exceeding  a  hundred  yards  from  th«  nsMenihled  luirty.  They  observed  iu 
other  places  the  efl'ects  of  similar  storms,  whieh  will  serve  as  a  warning  to  any  outj  on 
these  shores. 


78 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


At  sixteen  miloa  from  the  Koiitli  end  of  Montapn  Inland  is  Point  Bazil, 
in  latitnde  00°  1'.  To  the  nortli  of  tliis  are  tolerably  jjood  Miiindin^s. 
on  the  islanil  side  of  the  channel,  while  to  the  Houthward  ot  it  no  bot- 
tom could  be  retiched  with  Hixty  or  eighty  fathoniM  within  a  mile  of  the 
shorje. 

The  two  bays,  one  named  by  I'ortloek  ITanninfj's  Bay,  and  the  other 
M'Leod's  Harbor,  are  stated  by  Mr.  Whidbey  to  be  very  exposed 
anchorages,  and  nothing  more  than  stopping  places  in  navigating  this 
channel. 

M'Leod's  Harbor  is  thus  described  by  Captain  Tortlock:  "It  may 
not  be  amiss  to  observe  that  all  ships  .  'fining  into  this  harbor  ought  to 
keep  the  shore  of  Montagu  Island  on  board  as  close  as  they  can ;  for  if 
they  get  ofl:'  into  the  channel,  and  over  toward  the  west  shore,  they  will 
soon  bring  sixty,  seventy,  and  eighty  fathoms  wat«'r,  and  that  depth 
too  close  inshore  for  anchoring." 

M'Leod's  Harbor  is  ten  miles  within  the  southwest  point  of  Montagu 
Island.  Its  outer  points.  Point  Bryant  on  the  south,  and  Point  Wood- 
cock on  the  north,  are  about  two  miles  apart,  and  Joined  by  a  bank  of 
seven  and  eight  fathoms,  black  sand  and  mud,  within  which  is  a  deitth 
of  twenty-one  to  twelve -fathoms.  Within  it  takes  a  turn  to  the  north, 
around  a  point  which  is  quite  bold-to,  and  nuiy  be  passed  close.  A  ship 
can  lie  in  four  ami  a  half  or  Ave  fathoms  water,  with  the  south  point 
of  the  bay  just  shut  in  with  this  point,  at  about  a  cable's  length  from 
the  shore."* 

Port  Chalmers,  on  the  west  side,  and  toward  the  north  end  of  Mon- 
tagu Island,  is  in  latitude  00°  10'  north,  longitude  140°  50';  variation, 
in  June,  1794,  28°  30'  east.  Vancouver  says:  "The  place  of  our  anchor- 
ing in  Port  Chalmers  can  oidy  be  considered  as  a  small  cove,  on  a  rugged 
rocky  coast,  so  very  diftlcult  of  access  or  egress  that  our  utmost  vigi- 
lance in  sounding  was  unequal  to  warn  us  of  a  rock  (oft'  the  harbor's 
mouth)  on  which  the  ship  groululed."  Stockdale's  Harbor,  too,  is  only 
a  bay  full  of  rocks,  and  of  course  not  worthy  of  particular  attention. 
The  shores  about  Port  Chalmers  are  in  general  low,  and  very  swampy 
in  nmny  places,  on  which  the  sea  api)eared  to  be  making  rapid  encroach- 
ments, the  remains  of  the  forests  being  seen  below  high-water  nuirk. 
The  trees  around  are  not  very  luxuriant,  but  make  rather  a  dwartish 
forest.  The  only  tish  obtained  were  a  few  indifferent  crabs  from  the 
sliores;  a  little  wild  celery,  and  excellent  spruce  beer,  nniy  be  procured 
from  the  land.  Ott"  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  are  several  lurking  rocks, 
which  make  its  approaAi  very  dangerous,  as  before  stated.  In  front  of 
the  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  a  z:  ..11  woody  islet,  lying  about  a  mile 
fi»m  the  point  forming  its  entrance. 

The  South  Passage  Rock  lies  from  the  north  point  of  the  harbor  west 
something  less  than  a  m"ie  distant,  and  from  the  snmll  woody  islet  north 
by  west  one-half  west  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.    To  the  north  of 


til- 
th! 


•Portlock,  pp.  206,207. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


79 


tVoui 


[or  west 
»t  north 
Urtli  of 


this  is  the  North  Pnssnge  Kock,  lyiiij;  from  the  iiortli  jioitit  of  tho  linrbor 
north-iiortliwest  oiic-iiuartJ'r  west  two  and  a  lialf  iniloH  distant,  and  w«'.st- 
southwest  tlirpe<iuarters  of  u  niiU'  from  Htockdair's  Harbor.  These 
rocks  must  be  carefully  avoi(h'<l,  as  tlu'y  are  not  always  visil»le,  but  are 
covered  at  hi^fh  tide,  with  s<Mircely  any  weeds  or  other  indications. 

The  approaches  to  this  harbor  from  the  south  are  also  much  incom- 
moded by  two  shoals  in  midchannel,  between  th»'  south  i)oint  of  the  harbor 
and  a  rugged  rock  that  lies  about  a  mile  from  the  east  side  of  the  largest 
of  tlreen  Islaiul.  The  southernmost  of  these  sln)als  is  from  nineteen 
to  six  fathoms,  without  any  weeds  or  other  signs;  and  the  other,  three 
quarters  of  a  niilr^  northeast  of  U,  shoals  e(|ually  (|uick,  but  has  a  snudl 
patch  of  weeds  in  three  fathoms,  with  tive  and  seven  fathoms  close  around 
it.    They  it  'e  both  very  small,  and  on  each  side  of  tli«'m  is  a  clear  channel. 

It  is  high  water  at  I'ort  Chalmers  about  one  hour  after  the  moon  passes 
tho  meridian.  The  current  sets  southward,  and  there  is  no  draught  into 
the  Imrbor.  Bprings  rise  thirteen  and  fourteen  and  a  half  feet,  tho 
night  tides  rising  above  a  foot  nunc  than  those  in  the  day. 

The  strait  between  Montagu  and  Green  Islands,  to  the  northward  of 
Port  Chalmers,  is  embarrassed  by  a  line  of  sunken  rocks,  which  are  very 
steep-to,  aft'ording  no  indication  of  their  proximity  by  the  lead.  About 
half  a  league  from  the  northwest  point  of  Montagu  Island  the  depth  is 
sixty-five  fathoms.  From  this  point  a  ledge  of  rocks  exteinls  half  a  mile^. 
Off  the  north  point  of  Green  Island,  three  miles  distant,  is  a  ledge  of 
rocks,  and  to  the  northward  of  these  again  is  another.  The  northeast 
end  of  IMontagu  Island  is  divided  into  bays  or  sounds,  two  of  which 
appear  capacious,  but  from  their  i)oints  of  entrance  (as  well  as  within 
them)  rocks  extend  a  considerable  <listance.  As  this  side  of  the  island 
is  greatly  exposed  to  tho  prevailing  winds,  great  caution  ought  to  be 
observed  in  navigating  near  its  shores. 

From  the  northeast  point  of  Montagu  Island  its  shores  run  compactly 
to  the  southwest  for  thirty-one  miles  to  a  low  projecting  point  covered 
with  wood.  Off  it  lies  a  cluster  of  six  rocky  islets,  chietly  composed  of 
steep  cliffs,  nesirly  level  on  their  tops,  which  may  serve  as  a  direction  in 
thick  or  gloomy  weather  to  the  south  point  of  Montagu  Island,  lying 
from  them  southwest  by  west  one-half  west  distant  seventeen  miles. 
They  are  tolerably  well  wooded,  and  are  not  liable  to  be  mistaken,  par- 
ticularly for  the  Chiswell  Isles,  (twenty-one  leagues  to  the  ^\  est,)  because 
those  appear  to  be  entirely  barren. 

The  south  point  of  Montagu  Island,  Point  Elrington,  and  Cape  Paget, 
between  which  are  the  southwest  entrances  to  Prince  William's  Sound, 
have  been  before  described. 

The  Chiswell  Isles  are  a  group  of  naked  rugged  rocks,  seemingly 
destitute  of  soil  and  any  kind  of  vegetation.  The  center  of  the  southern- 
jnost  group  is  in  latitude  oyo  ,'Jl', longitude  149o  2'.  From  this,  the  eastern- 
most, \^  hich  is  a  single  detached  rock,  lies  northeast  three-quarters  east, 
about  a  league  distant  j  and  the  northernmost,  which  has  several  less 


ifT'i^V/'Wj'^jf^^  '.T 


-■-(yS;  ^i-  'iv-:"'.'^.-/    " 


80 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


,1   '' 


It   ! 


islets  and  rocks  about  it,  lies  north  bj'  east  one-liiilf  east,  five  miles  dis- 
tant. 

Blying  Sound  of  the  RnsHians,  called  by  Portlock  Port  Andrews, 
lies  within  the  Chiswell  Isles. 

To  the  south  westward  of  the  Chiswell  Isles  the  coast  presents  a  broken 
a]>pearan<'e  as  far  as  Pie's  Islands,  tlu^  south  extreme  of  the  southern- 
most of  whi(!h  lies  in  latitude  oiP  lU',  longitude  145P  51'.  This  island, 
in  several  points  of  view,  forms  a  very  conspicuous  i>eak;  md  although 
not  remarkable  for  its  great  height,  yet,  from  its  singular  appearance, 
it  is  not  likely  to  be  mistaken  in  this  neighborhood,  as  it  descends- with 
gi-eat  regularity  from  its  summit  to  the  water's  edge.  A  group  of  rocks, 
lying  west  by  south  one-quarter  south,  four  miles  from  it,  must  be  very 
dangerous  in  thick  weather,  as  it  is  probably  covered  at  high  water, 
spring  tides. 

Between  Pie's  Islands  and  Point  Gore,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles, 
the  coast  is  in  nu>st  paits  very  mountainous,  and  descends  ratlier  (piickly 
into  the  ocean,  excepting  in  those  places  wi.ere  it  is  lu'oken  into  vallcs, 
some  of  which  are  extensive.  In  the  inteival  are  two  openings,  and 
several  low,  detached  i>ar<'ols  of  rocks  lie  at  a  greater  dista?u;e  from  the 
land  than  usual  on  this  i)ai't  of  the  coast. 

Point  Gore  is  placed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  rti)^  IP,  longitude  (cor- 
rected) ir)()o  22'.  Towanls  the  st»a  this  lu-qjecting  pionumtory  termi- 
nates in  an  abrupt  clitf,  moderately  elevated,  an«l  is  connected  to  the 
nuiin  laud  by  a  low  peninsula  «!Overed  with  trees.  To  the  westward  of  the 
point  is  Port  Dick,  tlescribed  by  Portlo(;k. 

Cape  Elizauetii  is  the  southeast  point  of  the  mouth  of  C(M»k's  Inlet. 
It  is  phu'ed  by  Vancouver  in  latitude  .V.io  '.y,  longitude  (corrected)  1510 
18'.  Tlie  coast  here  is  composed  of  high  land,  before  which  lie  three 
small  islands  and  some  rocks.  The  cape  is  itself  the  largest  of  these, 
and  the  westernmost  of  them.  They  apiiear  to  attbrd  a  navigable  chan- 
nel between  them  and  the  land,  nearly  in  an  east  and  west  directi<»n.  Hut 
this  is  somewhat  doubtful ;  for  between  the  cape  and  the  middle  island 
some  low,  lurking  rocks  were  discerne<l,  which  had  the  aftpearance  of 
b<>ing  connected  with  a  cluster  of  rocks  above  tlu!  surface,  lying  stuitheast 
one-half  east  three  or  four  miles  from  the  cape.  To  the  southwest  of  the 
middle  isle  is  another  cluster  of  rocks,  both  alK»ve  and  below  the  water's 
surface. 

Port  Ciutiiam,  so  named  by  Vancouver  from  his  tender,  is  situat<'d 
behind  the  island  which  forujs  Cape  Elizabeth,  and  from  that  pronu)n- 
tory  extends  to  a  point  in  a  northeast  direction  fi\  e  atid  a  half  miles,  ami 
from  thence  it  termiiuites  in  an  excellent  harbor,  about  two  miles  long 
IVoui  west  to  east,  and  one  broad  north  and  south,  affording  seeun'  ami 
convenient  anchorage.  The  passage  into  it,  i)assing  to  the  mu'thwest  of 
Cape  Elizabeth,  is  free  from  all  obst  ■  'i'.^as  but  su<'h  as  are  suHlciently 
conaj»ieuous  or  easily  avoide<l.  Tlie^;  onsist  principally  of  shoals  that 
extend  a  little  distance  Irom  each  jKHiit  of  the  cove  on  the  north  side  of 


i^numtnmwi^;  ^^^r^  rnvw^-^^ 


-"vw»-np  vHii w  « 


ALASKA    DiKECrOKY. 


81 


the  entrance,  Jind  itn  iRiel.  abovit  wbirh  nm  mmw  tocUcs  that  lie  Iav  [Hie 
soufhweHt  of  the  Hoiitlieaat  point  ofevntrance  itstothehnrhov.  A  narrow 
channel  exists  between  vi»«'j  rocks  ami  Uieimwu  liwul  fVojsi  lunen  to  twelve 
fathoniH  tle^?p.  The  8ouiHHi>{>H  in  Fort  i)hatinui\  are  toierably  si'jtrnlir — 
from  tlve  to  twenty  five  iathoiuSy  (he  hotlom  it  .stift't  h»y.  Tiie  rthoren  in 
most  phuies  are  a  low  border,  very  \v«'H  woo<leti  with  ,uiiui  ti'ccM  undwotue 
shrubH.  This  bonier  occnpies  a  small  spuce  betwcejj  (he  wsimt  side  and 
the  part  of  the  niountains  that  n»inpos>i'  vhe  nei^iliboviu^v  joiuilry,  up 
which,  to  a  certain  'leijyht,  trees  and  otJM'r  vegvhiblen*  uvre  pro^hscKHL 
But  their  more  elev;t*.(l  insrtH  appeared  t«>  be  bavn'^,  ai,\<ii  tho'ir  Munnnits 
were  covered  with  snow,  iu  all  probability  perpttuul.  TJic  rhatluim 
anchorajje,  ott"an  excellent  ran  of  water,  wu«  founiJ  tu  b«  in  latitude  o5P 
14',  lonyitnde  l'A\'^ 'Ai' ;  variation,  (Ahiy,  l7m,,)2'Pi>'  ea.st,  The  n,se 
and  fall  of  the  tide,  near  the  chanj>e  of  (\u^  jxoivm),  w<^re  fourt"*M(  feet,  b\!it 
dnriiiff  neap  tides  not  more  thaii  ten  ux  eleven  feet;  Jii;:;!!  water  Mbomt 
an  honr  after  the  moon  had  passed  the  meridjan.  lbs!  this,  and  other 
circumstances  relative  to  the  tides,  were  found  to  beyreatly  inlSueneed 
by  the  form  and  direction  of  the  winds.  Tlie  8UaatJt)n  of  tliw  hjnl.K>r  in 
respect  Ui  its  vicinity  to  the  ocean,  ita  free  acceMs  wwd  es;res8,  and  con- 
venient conuaunication  with  the  shore,  was  < oiLsidereil  by  IMlr,  J'Ui^et  !« 
be  equal,  if  not  superi(U',  to  the  generality  of  the  ports  vmUed  in  thftse 
ref^ions.  The  Russian  estublishnu'ut,  Fort  Aiexundroffi'k  in  iu  a  ba>  to 
the  westward  of  I'ort  Chatham. 


K  Inlet. 
)  1510 
three 
these, 
chan- 
.    Hut 
isbuid 
nee  of 
itheast 
t  (►f  the 
water's 

tuated 
iromtm 
Ics,  and 
es  long 
ire  and 
west  of 
Iciently 
ds  that 
side  of 


COOK'S  INLET. 

;'oi(NT  Ukuk,  so  named  by  Coi^k,  May  2(1, 1788,  i8  a  (ofty  pruinontory, 
and  from  this  the  <'oast  trends  noitheast  by  east,  with  a  chaisi  <»f  luouu- 
tains  iidand  exteiuling  in  the  same  direction.  The  land  on  the  const  m 
woody,  and  thei»>  seemed  to  be  no  dellciency  of  harbors. 

(Juaham's  IIauhou  is  seven  ndles  from  Point  IJede.  "(Jndijiia's 
harbor,"  says  Captain  Portlock, '*  1  found  a  most  excellent  ii\w  iiuieed, 
with  great  pleidy  of  wood  everywhere,  and  several  line  runs  of  water. 
For  a  ccmsiderable  distance  it  runs  up  nearly  east  southeast,  and  then 
trends  rather  to  the  southward,  with  fourteen  fathoms  water  over  a  bot- 
tom of  muddy  sand.  The  east  side  atVords  plenty  of  black  bircli  ami 
other  kinds  of  wood,  which  grow  close  to  a  beach  where  tlu^  Ixnits  <r<>uld 
have  easy  access." 

The  entrance,  according  to  l*ortlock''.8ket.<!h,  is  between  Russian  I'oint 
on  tile  south,  otV  which  a  rocky  shor'.  drie^  at  half  ebb  nearly  one  a)>d  a 
half  mile  out,  antl  Coal  Hay  on  the  north,  tour  or  five  miles  apart.  In 
the  entrance  is  Passage  Island,  on  either  side  of  whi(;h  is  an  optMi 
channel.  From  this  it  runs  up  about  nine  miles  to  the  east  s<nU beast, 
and  terndnales  in  a  fresh  wider  river.  There  are  seviMid  pr(ye«"tii,tg 
points  on  each  side  of  the  harbor,  (hat  form  very  good  and  snug  bayn, 
where  a  ship  nught,  if  necessary,  be  hauled  on  shore  in  the  greatvNt 
safety. 

(»  A  I) 


82 


ALASKA    DIUhlCTOBY. 


The  KussiaiJ  ostJil)lislinient  I'ere  was  c^nsideiXMl  only  UMiipornry,  anil 
8ituai<»<l  on  a  [jlcjiHant  puHO  of  Hat  land,  alwiit  tlnw  mih-.s  lonjj  and 
two  liufidrod  yards  widt',  hoiUMhul  by  a  fjood  Hiiudy  beach  on  one'side, 
and  a  Cn'sh  water  lake  on  the  other.  The  JtuswianK  were  twenty-tive  in 
number. 

Coal  Bay,  on  the  north  side,  to  the  east  of  the  north  point,  is  a  pretty 
g(MHl  one,  carrying  Houndinj?H  in  fourteen,  twelve,  and  eight  fathoinn,  tine 
black  Miind. 

(/aptains  Piatlock  and  Dixiuj  huuWon  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  an<1 
in  walking  round  diaeoveit'dtwo  veiimof  cannel  eoal,KituateU  iu'ar  .sonje 
hiliH  juMt  by  the  l>each,  aUatt  the  middle  of  the  bay,  and  with  very  little 
trouble  several  large  ])ieees  were  g<»t  out  of  the  bank* 

The  best  time  to  run  into  this  harlior  is  as  near  low  water  as  possible. 
Whatever  danger  there  is  nuiy  then  be  seen,  either  from  beds  of  kelp  or 
the  rocks  showing  themselves  alune  water. 

Tscu()U<»AT8('HoiK  Bay  lies  t-o  the  northeast,  and  its  northwest 
extremity  is  An<!hor  I'oint,  in  latitude  59°  :iW  ;  juul  hen<'e,  ■  oniing  to 
Vancouver's  <'hart.  the  coast  pursues  a  nearly  straight  dir«.r::on  sixty 
miles  to  th<'  liussian  establishment,  eight  miles  to  the  southeast  of  the 
East  Foreland. 

The  southw«»st  limit  of  ('(M»k's  inlet  may  Im»  })laee«l  at<'Ar!<i  Dourlah. 
in  latitude^  M^  3l!',  longitude  jr»2°  .*»!'.  Thecoast  hereabouiiH  con^posed  «»f 
a  low  tractof  country,  stret<'hing  into  the  sea  from  the  base  of  verv*  \ot\\ 
mountains,  wiappcd  in  snow,  whi<';h  also  coven-d  the  ,Hurfae<Mtf  the  land 
(May,  17U4)  qnitv  iUtwn  to  the  water's  e<lge.  This  was  likewise  tiuuiuse 
with  that  which  appeared  to  Ik"  the  cape;  oil"  whicli,  a  few  miles  to  the 
northwanl,  lies  a  very  low  tlat  isiaml,  Hhaw's  Island,  oJ!  the  iiorthesist 
point  of  which  a  ledge  ot  riK'ks  stretches,  the  extent  <»f  which  increj»*M*s 
umterially  at  low  wat+'r.  To  the  northward  of  tlie  iuountaiuM  that  forn* 
the  pnunontory  of  <'ape  Douglas  is  a  iofty,  ragged  ridg<',  that  at  a  din 
tance  appears  to  lu«  detached,  and  to  give  an  appearance  of  umny  open- 
ings in  the  coast,  but  a  nearer  approach  shows  it  to  l>e  Ibudy  conneet^ed 
by  land  less  elevated,  and  foriinng  a  dee|>  i>ay  lietween  the  cape  aiul  the 
lower  iMmlers  of  Onchouganat  Island,  or  Mount  St.  Augustin.  The 
shores  of  this  bay,  liourdieu's  Bay,  in  numt  directions  se<»*m  ciunpaet,  Init 
eneund>er«'d  with  large  rtK^ks  and  stones;  tiie  depth  ol  water  acioss  it 
north  and  south  is  from  nine  to  twelve  fathoius.  The  i»oft<un  of  tite  ba\ 
is  tVu'UUMl  by  an  extensive  low  c<aintry  lying  between  tlie  buiMt  of  thi 
rugg<*d  range  of  mountains  ami  the  waterside. 

OucHoi'OANAT  Imland,  Of  MoiNT  8t.  AtTOUHT!r>r,  is  a  very  renuirk 
able  island,  rising  with  a  uniforra  ascent  from  the  shores  to  its  loft\ 
summit,  which  is  nearly  |H'rpeinlicular, to  the  center  of  the  islnnd,  ineiin 
ing  s<»mewhat  to  its  eastern  side,  and  IsMiig  in  latitude  riH^L!!;'.  iongttu<i* 
1/V.'P  (K.  It  is  about  inne  leagues  in  einiuit;  towaixis  the  seaside  h 
is  very  low,  from  wheuee  it  riHi»s,  though  regular,  with  rather  a  st«ep 


i 


tn 


*  PoHloc'k,  p.  )(m ;  Dison,  pp.  m,  OL 


i'lllll, 

rlwf,, 
'0'f»< 


ALASKA    DIUKCTORV, 


83 


r,  ami 
g  aiul 

live  in 


pretty 
ijH,  tint* 

ly,  and 

ry  little 

)<>sKil>l**. 
lieip  or 

nthwent 
vd'ina  to 
on  «ixty 
i«t  of  tin* 

KnTGLAK. 
IjpOHfd  «»t 

k«ry  lot^> 
(•  tht^  land 
['  tlu't:tt«e 
U'.ft.  to  th*' 
5iorth»^iu<t 

that  torn* 
t  ut  a  «ltt^ 
ju\y  <M»'H- 

M^  iMItl  tl««' 

1st  in.    Tl.<> 
u|>iU't,  inU 

IMMUHH  it 

>!'  til*'  <>n> 
I)  is«'  oi'  tin 

|r,s  TiMnjirk 

it«  lotY> 
|i»iKl,im'lin 
lonfritn<4. 
H*'a-Ni<l<*  !' 
|u»r  a  St**"!* 


ascent,  and  forms  a  lofty,  nnifovni,  conical  n»onntain.  |»n>!«>ntiJ5K  nearly 
the  same  ai)pearanee  frtaii  every  jxtint  of  ^  iew,  and  elotfu*!  with  snow 
and  ice  down  to  the  water'K  edj^e,  thron^li  whieh  neither  tree  nor  >»hrwb 
was  seetj  to  protrude.  Landinj;  on  it  is  dittieult.  frrnn  the  *<hor»»  l»«»inn 
bounded  at  the  di.stanee  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  by  innniu<'ralde  tajjije 
detached  n>eks,  \vhie!»,  however,  extend  furtlies!  oti  the  mvrth  side  i>t  the 
island,  ^rhe  \vi<lthof  the  passim*'  between  it  and  the  loain  land  is  alnait 
six  ndh's. 

Adviineinpf  northward  alontj  theshcyres  in  the  main  land, it  will  Hp|iear 
indented  and  broken  int«  Hinall  coves  and  l>ays,  thnt  appear  lik««l.v  t<» 
afford  Hcenre  anehon^jje.  Tlu^  points  of  these  bays  !»iv  oi  j»«Mn'rHl  -  <  ep 
and  rocky,  and  briujitl  the  coafit  rises  a  <■  'itinnation  of  the  l.»fty  mnjfe, 
extending  from  (ape  Douglas,  chol  in  j>erpetu;d  snow,  isi  lalitude  ")tK' 
42'  are  three  islets,  apiinst  tlie  whore,  i»ehiud  \hich  tlicjv  is  npiHMirance 
of  anchorage  and  shelter.  There  is  nothini;?  renuis  kable  ou  the  coant* 
until  we  couw  to  the  northward  of  latitude  (It)",  whei*e  there  are  two 
openings,  the  northern  of  which  is  the  princi[>a!.  It  runs  to  the  w»'Ht,aiid 
then  Honrhw<*.st  towards  the  foot  of  a  eonspi<'uonM  voh'suio,  which  lies  in 
latitude  <HK' j>%  !o!i>.Hrude  !r»'J'  W,  Tiie  southwest  part  of  the  noun<i  is 
a  smaU  shallow  opening,  formed  by  two  low  points,  covered  with  wood, 
iunl  quite  unimportasit. 

From  the  mouth  of  this(»pening  to  the  West  and  SOsmt  Foreland,  where 
the  breadth  of  C'ook's  Inlet  is  consi<lerably  wuUracted,  the  distance  is 
foity-thrfM'  ndles;  the  distjince  between  its  shores  at  this  pnrt  beinj^' 
about  thii  ty  nuh*s.  In  tlu'  intermediat*'  spjo'c  lies  an  islund,  natm-d  by 
the  Russians  t'oultciaek  Jslaiul,  which  divides  tlu'  inUt  here  into  two 
'•hannels,  the  northwest  of  which  ih  much  encui»d)ered  by  dangerous 
and  extensive  shoalh.  The  island  itself  is  abo.it  thirte«'!ii  miles  lony;,  nearly 
t»orth«'aHt  ami  southwest,  and  is  narrow.  It  is  covere<l,  in  most  parts^ 
wfth  small  pine  ami  aider  trees.  V'ancotiv*  r  lan<led  on  it,  on  the  south 
jMiitil  of  a  nhallow  bay  on  its  nt>rth\vest  sidts  rowjirds  its  soutiiwest  e."x 
treusity.  The  snow,  whi(;h  was  lyinjji'  very  d«'ep  on  the  grouuil,  (April 
17.  1794, 1  *«»sihm'd  their  walk  to  the  IwHch,  on  which  was  lodged  «ome 
suiall  drift-woiMl,  and  on  it  they  foutnl  some  pieces  of  coal,  re»<'m!i)ti!>«^ 
<  MJiiiel  coal,  rise  more  impitrtsint  part  of  this  isl-.unl  to  the  navigator  is 
;i  danfjerons  Hhoal,  which  extends,  in  its  direction  from  the  (Mmthweat 

'  Thf  vvt(utL«-r  now,  (Ajuii  18, 171M,)Mu>HKtM'xl^^roiue}y  cold,  (the  luert'iiry  Mtaii'tiiiK  »t 
tlkV.)  wttM  vt-ry  <iHiorfnl,  aixl  u^VmUid  uk  tvn  t«X(  «l!«)iil.  vi«iw  uttlu'  «tint>uniUuj;  n?};'"*'''  <<»»'- 
puNmi,  ikt.  a  hitlr  iliittii.iu'i'  iVoiM  tJic  rivt'v,  ofHtu|kcii<UMiH  iiioinUiiiiiH,  whom'  riigi;!-)!  and 
ntiiiti.iiti<'  toniirt,  I  lutlii'tl  in  a  {)i>iiM't>ial  xinM't  ol  i«i>  luiil  mmw,  jm'wiifid  h  lut^siMTt, 
thotigli  iiiiiKiufiroutly  jfra<jd,yri  drciuv,  <Mild,  an  1  ItiiHmpirntili'.  In  thi'  luUUt  of  t!u«H»' 
>t|»(H«un«d  th«»  ^olrnixf,  ntvnv  rhc  (4ni»mi*  of  wlilrli,  fniin  two  diHtim-t  onit^'ra  on  itMHonth 
«')»»ttt«rn  wldo,  w«rv  <  ii(i((<'<l  hiJj,',«'  viiiiUJtnN  of  wliitiid\»nkiikr,  lUiloan,  a»  wun  »«uj>j>m«'d  i>y 
wHt»f  un  Utiuii,  It  watt  viijM>r  .inwnjt  fjnni  Iwd  *|uiiijtH  i>»  vl»at  uoi|{i)lH)rluHid ;  bnl  how 
tai  thin  )»H(,|i'«'tur(>  \vu«  r.«>n«it*t<'iit  with  tlit<  Hf>v«i'ity  of  tin-  rliin;it(  i»t  tin-  loji  of  that 
iotty  luoiiHtaiii  in  uolt  withia  Jh«"  limits  of  uiy  judjjnn-nt  to  d*-tt  rniuii*.  ;  Van('oijv>'r, 
Ml.  iii,  p.  M9.) 


If 

■1  %i 

Ml 


I 

If 
I 
I 


I! 


tr 


84 


ALASKA    DinKCTOKY, 


91' 


II 


if' 


end,  for  the  diatarux^  oi'  at  IfOMt  two  leHj^ues.  VaiK'xjuver  crossed  it  in 
four  fathoms  at  a  league  from  it«  south  eMtroiuity.  j-'roiij  the  great 
variety  of  soundiugH  on  }>a»^«iin{?  over  it,  it  apiiwirs  to  be  very  uiieveii, 
a«  in  .several  instances  the  ship  struck  violent  I  ,  when  the  rise  und  fall 
of  the  waveN  were  by  mt  fueans  etjual  to  the  depth  .shown  by  the  lead. 
It  is  not  improbable  thiit  it  may  have  some,  of  the  iniuunerablo  large 
fragments  of  roek  lodged  on  it  which  are  to  be  found  on  t)»e  shores  of 
the  island.  If  so,  it  is  infinitely  more  dangerous  than  a  mere  spit  of 
Band  to  contend  with.  This  shoal  coiitinues  all  .dong  the  southeast  shore 
of  the  island  to  two  miles  distance  off  it. 

Abreast  of  the  southwest  point,  o«i  the  west  shorty  is  Point  Harriet, 
which  is  a  moderately  high  steep  eliU'.  The  shore  on  either  side  of  it  is 
a  low  bea<!h,  particularly  to  the  northward,  where  the  nnirgin  of  low 
land  is  of  greater  extent  than  to  the  southward.  Olf  the  point  a  shoal 
extends  a  league,  on  the  outer  edge  of  which  is  only  three  fathoms. 
To  the  n<M!*tbeast  of  this,  again,  the  <'Juinnel  between  the  island  and  the 
western  si>ure  has  so)ae  extensive  shoals.  On  one  of  these  "Vancouver 
grounded,  it  lies  oti  the  middle  of  the  ishunl,  and  stretches  to  the 
nortliward.  It  is  between  si.>t  und  seven  miles  from  the  nuiin  land,  ami 
i8  near  a  league  from  the  west  side  of  the  island,  where  a  Hat  (extends 
some  distance  into  the  river. 

Beyond  thin  the  shores  of  the  river  are  comparatively  low,  or  only 
moderately  elevated,  jutting  out  into  three  rennirkable  steep  clitfy  points, 
named  the  East, West,  aiid  North  Forelands ;  ihe  two  foran>r  forming  the 
narrows.  Between  the  northeast  end  of  Coulgiaek  Island  and  the  cen- 
ter of  the  Narrows  is  a  shoal,  observed  by  Messrs.  Portlock  and  Dixon. 
It  is  of  very  snuiU  extent,  and  bears  Irom  the  point  northeiust  one  quar- 
ter east,  six  milew  distant. 

The  West  For<'land  is  in  latitude  0(P  41'/,  h)ngitude  15Jo  12',  and  is  about 
eight  and  t  half  miles  nearly  dm)  west  from  tlu^  Fa.st  Foreland.  At  the 
distance  of  about  a  nule  otf  tlu".  former,  the  .soundings  are  from  seven  to 
twelve  fathoms.  A  rmik  that  is  visible  only  at  half  tide  lies  about  the 
fourth  of  a  mile  fro»v.  the  extremity  of  the  point. 

Between  the  West  T oreland  and  the  North  Ft)reland,  both  of  which 
are  on  th"  western  shore,  the  coast  forms  a  spacious  open  bay,  called  by 
Portlock,  Trading  Bay.  Shallow  w  ater  extends Irom  the  fornu'r  to  within 
alHUit  five  leagues  of  the  latter  point,  from  w  hence  a  depth  of  live  fath- 
oms will  be  found  close  to  ihv  uuiin  land. 

The  southeast  shore  eastward  of  the  E^ist  F«)reland  forms  a  shallow 
bay,  betwt'en  it  and  a  point  six  miles  mntheast  by  niu'th  above  it,  with 
s«tundingH  of  s«'ven  and  eight  fathoms  within  a  convenient  distance  of  the 
shore,  sheltered  from  the  east,  south,  and  southwest  winds,  and  not  nuu'h 
exposed  to  those  which  blow  from  the  opposite  quartt^rs.  Beyond  this 
point,  antl  between  it  and  a  ]K»int  lying  stiven  miles  west-southwest  from 
Point  Possession,  a  distance  of  twenty -t>nemile.s,  the  outer  bank  formsa])er- 
fect  labyrinth  of  coincal  reel  s,  detached  from  ea«;hotherona  bank  of  Hand 


h. 
At 

r 

he 

Cm 

i'oi 


,f 


ALASKA    DIKECTORY. 


86 


svhicli 

\\\vd  l)y 

within 

V  futli- 

<liiillo\v 
lit,  with 
W  of  tlio 
much 
»n(l  this 
[st  from 

t)t"  Hand 


ami  sni«11  stonos,  extomliiipf  a  U»afrno  ami  a  loajrui'  and  ;i  half  frorti  tho 
shore.  Thcw  rocks  are  of  ditteront  oh'vations,  and  as  fow  of  tla'm  are 
of  8iifti('i<Mit  heijfht  to  apiK'ar  above  hijjhwator  lovol,  the  navi^ration  of 
tho«e  sliorew  witii  sneh  rapid  tides  requires  th(*  uhuost  eir('ums|>ection  in 
boats — with  any  hnp:e  vessel  it  would  be  madnesH.  Those  dan^ei-ons 
pyramidal  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  fron»  a  base  at  the  depth  of  tour 
to  nine  fathoms  an<l  are  perfectly  steep  on  every  si«le  within  the  distance 
of  ;.i  boat's  length.  This  very  extraor<liiiiiry  rnf^Rcd  region  appears  U> 
join  to  the  southern  side  of  the  shoid  on  which  (!o(tk\s  ship,  the  Resolu- 
tion, jjround  '  in  177H,  (vol.  ii,  ]>.  IVM) ;)  hence  it  nmst  be  considered  as  a 
fortanate  cireumstanc^e  that  neither  he  uw  V'anc«mver  att<Mnpted  to  \y,\»H 
to  the  south  of  it.  This  shoal  extends  hidf  way  over  the  strait,  and  its 
outer  end  is  about  nine  miles  nearly  iu>rth  from  the  I'^ast  Foreland. 

The  North  Foreland  is  in  latitude  ii\^  1',  longitude  lado  ;j,V,  and  on  it 
Vancouver  found  the  Kuss'an  factory,  which  t'onsisted  of  one  large 
house,  the  resi«lence  of  nineteen  Itusniaus,  who  had  established  it  in  17tM). 
For  two  leaj;:ues  to  the  north  of  this,  alony  the  western  shore,  tolerable 
anchora«ije  is  tbnnd,  and  commodious  ct»uimuni<-ation  witli  the  shore, 
aboundinji  with  wotwl  cl<>se  to  the  water  sitle,  iind  }itfor<linjr  several 
streams  of  excellent  water.  But  this  space  is  jj[r»nitly  exposed  to  the 
east  and  s(Mitheast  winds,  the  jnevalent  and  most  violent  iii  this  coun 
try ;  for  it  was  remarked  that  all  the  trees  that  ha«l  fallen  were  lying 
with  their  hea<l8  toward  the  west  and  northwest,  and  all  other  perennial 
vep:etableH  bent  in  the  same  direction.  Fnun  tliis  extent  the  shoals 
gradually  stretch  to  the  distance  of  tive  miles  froui  the  shore,  vuin  they 
join  on  to  Point  Mackenzie;  the  land  l>etweeii  f'oruiiuy:  a  low  and  per- 
fectly compact  shore,  without  the  smallest  discernible  o]>eninfj. 

Tarnagain  Island  lies  at  the  head  of  the  more  extensive  part  of  (look's 
Inlet.  Its  weHt  eml  is  in  latitude  01°  S'.  It  is  about  three  and  a  halt' 
miles  long,  e;ist  northeast  and  west- nortli west,  an<l  half  a  league  b!'oa<l. 
From  the  w«'s)  point  a  shoal  stretclies  hail  ;i  league  in  a  uortliwest  direc- 
tiim,  which  narrows  thechaiuiel  between  it  an<l  tlie  iiArti.  :»finK:  to  scarcely 
a  mile  in  width.  Tlu-  island  lies  in  the  entrance  of  a  i-.  u*  ti  di\crging 
I'rom  the  nniiri  inlet  in  a  northeast  direction.  Its  entrance  Im^  between 
Point  Jifackenzie  on  the  north, and  I'oint  Woronzow,  mm  iiwt'Ht  by  s«»nt;- 
two  miles  from  it.    (inik's  vessel  penetrated  this  inlet  listancc.  n-ir 

left  its  t'TmiDation  undiH<rover»'<l.     Van<  onveranchuii ,,  i.  ,  .niles  idioT^- 
!t«  ontraiwe  :tnd  lbun<l  tiuit  ail  alK>ve  him  beca»i«t'.  at  lo«-  \vat*»r,  a  (Mie 
cesHion  ••!  <■  y  sand  banks,  »»c(!upyinF  th**  whole  of  the  >*]mi'e  n^i  to  itw 
head,  eigliteen  miles  further  on,  in     i    tnde  <>Io  20'   i<ingiti*il*» 'i*<°  iwV. 
At  high  ti<leit  iieeomes  an  ext**nMiv.'  sh^^t  «»f  water. 

TiK> AGAIN  .V»M — The  s«»tth#*r!inu»«t  b?'s»neh  is  Mi»'  priu^ijiftl.  it 
wascHlIecl  by  <  <><»k  1  trnagiMn  Kivei.  and  bs  Viinconver  TiirnagaiM  Arm, 
he  having  dwiiieft  itf  i"eal  'har»<*t>»v  Its  Mttrance  li»'s  i»ctwt<en  Point 
Campliel!,  whieb   i*«  wHith  b.N  west  iters  w^»«»  lour  ni'lewfrom 

Point  VVoronzow,  md  P«int  Poss  ic  .«MHUh«*'  !i  shore.     At  four- 


8o 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


If 


i 


'•i 


:iy 


1  '* 


teen  or  sixteen  miles  above  these  the  shores  oonverjjfe  ajjain,  up  to  wliich 
|>oints  they  are  three  or  four  leajjues  asuiuh>r,  ea(!li  side  t'orniin^  a  bay 
at  high  water,  but  their  shores  eannot  be  approached  on  ae(>ouut  of  the 
»halh)w  flat  that  extends  from  the  north  side  from  three  to  tlve  nules, 
and  from  the  opposite  shore  about  half  the  distance,  between  which  is  a 
channel  one  and  a  half  leuf^ue  wide;  ))ut  this  is  interrupted  by  a  shoal, 
which  dries  in  numy  ))laces,  one  and  a  half  league  long,  northeast  and 
southwest,  leaving  a  channel  only  half  a  league  broad  at  its  south  end. 

The  country  bordering  upon  the  bays  between  the  outer  and  inn«T 
points  of  the  arm  is  low,  well  wotxled.  and  rises  with  a  gradual  ascent 
until  at  the  inner  p«)int  of  entrance,  when  the  sliores  suddiudy  rise  to 
lofty  eujineni^es,  in  nearly  perpendicular  clirts,  and  compose  stupendous 
mountains,  that  are  broken  into  chasms  ami  deep  gullies.  Down  these 
rush  immense  tcurents  of  water,  rendering  the  naked  sides  of  these  i>re- 
cipices  awiully  grand.  On  their  tops  grow  a  few  stunted  i»ine  trees,  but 
they  ar(»  nearly  destitute  of  every  other  vegetable  production.  The  tide 
here  rises  thirteen  teet  j)erpendicidarly,  so  that  at  low  water  the  renuun- 
ing  portion  of  the  arm  is  dry,  or  lu'arly  so.  It  extends  twenty-two  miles 
above  these  points,  and  thus  approaches  to  within  four  leagues  of  the 
head  of  Passage  ('anal,  in  the  northw(^st«Mn  part  of  Prince  William's 
Hound.  Across  this  isthmus  the  Kussians  and  Indians  (u)mmunicate 
with  these  two  extensive  inland  wati'rs,  as  tlu^re  nu'iitioned. 

Vancouver  found  the  time  of  high  \vat«'r,  at  his  northernmost  jioint  in 
the  n<)rtheastern  arm,  to  be  ab«)ut  six  hours  after  the  moon  pusses  the 
meridian,  and  tin;  rise  and  fall  at  springs  he  roughly  estimated  at  about 
twenty-sev<«n  feet.  Like  numy  other  extensive  inlets  which  are  closed 
at  their  ui»p«»r  ends,  (as,  for  examph>,  the  Hay  of  Fundy,  and  the  Bristol 
Channel,)  the  great  range  of  the  tide  at  its  head  is  to  be  acioiinted  for 
by  th«^  converging  nature  of  the  inlet,  which  lorces  a  nnich  larger  body 
of  water  into  its  upper  portion.  CUmsequentl.v  the  tidal  current  rushes 
with  great  v««lo(!ity,  and  Vancouver  found  the  ebb  running  tlve  and  six 
knots,  the  tlood  not  much  less,  altove  the  Forelands.  Lower  down  their 
velocity  is  propoitionably  less. 

We  have  thus  described  the  shores  of  this  very  extensive  arm  of  the 
o<'ean.  When  Cook  explored  it  in  177.S,  lu'  suppos<>«l  that  it  might  be 
navigate<l  much  higher  tiuin  he  penetrat<'d  into  Tnrnagain  Arn».  IL; 
fornu'd  this  opinion  from  the  water,  timugh  very  considerably  fresher, 
still  retaining  much  «>f  its  saltness,  and  therefore  assumed  that  a  v«»ry 
extensive  inlan<l  comiiuinii*ation  was  cuinected  with  it.  "  If  the  iliseov- 
ery  of  this  great  river,*  w  hi«'li  prondses  to  vie  w  ith  s,nne  of  the  most  con- 
siderable ones  already  known  to  be  capabh^  of  e\teiisiv«^  inland  naviga- 
tion, should  prov«>  of  usi'.  either  to  the  pirsent  (»r  lo  any  future  age,  the 
time  we  spent  in  it  ought  tln^  h'ss  to  be  regretted.  IJut  to  us,  who  ha<l 
a  much  givater  obje<'t  in  view,  the  delay  thus  occasioned  was  an  essen- 


"  ('Hptniit  (,'«>ok  havhi){  hero  M\  a  hlunk,  which  he  hiwl  n«»t  HHcil  up  with  any  pmr- 
ti<!uliir  uuau',  LonI  Hiiu<lwivh  Uii-i'ctcd  thut  it.  nIioiiIiI  iio  called  (.'uok's  l^iver. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


87 


orttul 


of  the 

lit  bo 

Tit' 

•sluT, 

\  \«'ry 

ISCOV- 

}ivi;;u- 
((',  tlu' 
()    iliXl 


tiul  losH."*  Had  the  jfreut  niivipitor  but  iMMictratod  a  few  niih's  lurthor, 
hiH  views  would  have  been  of  a  diti'erent  character;  and  it  was  nsserved 
for  Vancouver  to  determine  its  real  nature,  which,  as  it  does  not  partake 
of  that  of  a  river,  he  has  properly  called  Cook's  Inlet." 


CIIAPTEU    III. 

THE  KODIACK  AUCIIIPELAOO,  ALIASKA,  AND  THE  ALEUTIAN  ARCHI- 
PELAGO. 

The  Kodiack  Auchipelacjo  was  first  seen  by  liehrin^f,  on  his  voy- 
age of  discovery,  on  returninj;  from  the  Anierican  coast,  in  1741.  Tlu^y 
were  seen  in  170;{  by  the  Russian  merchant  GlotolF.  In  17(JS  ('hcli;;hotf 
took  jmssessjon  of  them  in  the  name  of  a  company  of  merchants  for  the 
trade  in  furs,  of  which  he  was  the  chief;  n\u\  in  17{)!>  they  were  ^jranted 
in  full  possessi«m  to  a  society  of  merchants  loiincd  from  that  of  (-helig- 
lujft',  and  some  other  similar  associations,  undtir  the  title  of  the  Uussiuu 
Anu'rican  Company. 

The  Kodiack  Archipelajjo  is  composed  of  two  princi))al  isles,  Kodiack 
»uid  Afof^nack,  and  several  smaller  islets  in  their  neij^hlxuhood. 

Kodiai'k  (or  ('adia<'k,  as  it  is  called  by  Lisiansky)  is  very  mountainous, 
an<l  surroundtMl  by  deep  bays,  iito  which  a  nund)er  of  snndl  rivers  fall. 
OiA  the  shores  of  these  nmny  setiicmt'iits  might  be  Ibrnu'd,  but  the  (roun- 
try  elsewhere  is  in  general  too  elevated,  and  is,  besides,  foi-  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  I'ovcred  with  snow.  The  materials  of  which  the  island 
is  »'omposc«l  are  chielly  slate  and  common  giaystone.  The  climate,  from 
the  act'taint  given  of  it  by  the  inhabitants,  and  from  what  Lisiansky  ex- 
|)erienced,  is  by  no  nu'ansagrceal)le.  The  air  is  seldom  <'leai',  and,  even 
in  summer,  tlu>re  are  few  days  whiirh  may  be  calle<l  warm.  The  weather, 
indeed,  depends  entirely  on  tlu'  wiuils.  Ho  long  as  they  <'ontinne  to 
blow  fiorn  the  ninth,  the  west,  (»r  the  south  quarter,  it  is  tine;  when 
from  other  points  of  the  compass,  fogs,  «lamps,  and  rain  arc  sure  to  pre- 
vail. The  winters  very  much  resemble  what  is  felt  in  Russia  in  a  ba«I 
autumn,  which  is,  however,  not  without  exceptiouH. 

Poplar,  alder,  and  birch  grow  on  the  island,  thmtgh  in  no  great  <pnin- 
tity,  an<l  pim>  is  oidy  to  b<>  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  harbor  of  St.  I'aul 
and  fuither  to  the  northwaid  of  it.  Sonu'  culinary  plants,  as  cabl)ag<'s, 
turnips,  potatoes,  &c.,  hav«>  be«'n  cultivate*!  since  the  Ivussians  have  been 
here,  but  not  generally  throughout  the  islands.  The  dark  and  rainy 
weather  is  unfavorable  to  horticulture. 

The  native  animals  are  few,  ctmsisting  of  bears,  foxes,  «'rniines,  &<;. 
liirds  are  nuich  more  numerous,  bot  n  in  nund)ers  and  variety.  Kodiack 
also  abounds  in  fish,  which  are  halibut,  cod,  flouiulers,  iK:c.,  an<l  salmon, 
whieh  hiHt  conu*  into  the  rivers,  from  May  to  Oct(>ber,  in  such  id)und- 


*  Cook's  Thinl  Voyag.',  v«.l.  ii,  p.  SSMI. 


f  1, 


88 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


ance  that  liiindrodH  inny  be  cau{;ht  in  u  short  time  witli  the  liaixlH  only. 
The  tnai'iiie  auiinals  were  formerly  inii(;li  iriore  huiikm-oiih,  but  I'roiri  the 
iii(1i8criiniiiate  Hhuif^liter  they  liave  been  nnurh  thinned.  This,  how«  ver, 
from  tlie  l>etter  system  pursned,  is  h'ss  manifest  tlian  formerly.  Fur 
Heals  wer(^  formerly  one  t>f  the  staple  ]>rodncts  of  tlu'  {jronp. 

The  ))opnlation  is  snuill,  <'on)pared  witli  the  size  of  the  island.  We 
have  no  recent  aeeonnts,  but  they  were  estinuittMl  at  a  total  of  four 
thousand  by  Lisiansky,  in  1805.  It  was  stated  that,  previous  to  the 
arrivul  of  the  Russians,  (who  are  accused  of  very  jjreat  eruelti«!8  and 
oj)pressions,)  it  was  more  than  dimble  this.  ('heli;;hotf  stated  that  he  sub- 
jected lllty  t  liousand  men  to  the  crown  of  Kussia.  They  resemble,  in  nmhy 
])oiuts,  the  Indian  naiives  described  in  other  pcntions  of  the  Ameiican 
coasts,  possessinj;  much  the  sanu;  features  and  many  of  the  habits.  One 
atrocious  custom  is  that  of  men,  called  schoo])ans,  livin<;  with  nu'n  as 
women,  to  which  they  are  educated  from  infancy.  The  inhabitants  are 
almost  ('iitirely  occui»ied  in  the  chase  of  the  wild  and  fur-bearing  animals, 
in  the  servi«'e  of  the  Russian  American  Company.* 

KoDiAfiK,  as  before  stated,  is  hi;ifli,  hilly,  and  very  much  intersected. 
Its  greatest  diameter  is  about  thirty  leagues  in  a  northeast  and  south- 
west direction,  >mu1  its  breadth  nniy  be  assumed  as  fifteen  leagues. 
Although  we  have  not  an  exarit  acipmintance  with  the  whole  of  the 
island,  its  eastern  portion  is  sutHi^iently  well  known,  because  the  Ruk- 
siauAmerican  Company  send,  lUMirly  every  year,  some  ships  whicjli  arc 
always  conunaiuU'd  by  able  officers,  who  sonu'times  make  a  I'Mig  stay 
here.  Its  western  coast  is  nearly  altogether  unknown.  The  shore,  on 
all  sides  of  the  island,  is  ind(>nted  with  a  great  number  of  large  and 
deep  bays,  which  contain  excellent  harbors.  That  of  Ts«'hiniatskoy  is 
the  huj^est,  and  at  the  same  time  the  most  nnpcu'tant;  tor  it  is  in  the 
bottom  of  this  bay  that  the  establishment  of  the  Russian-American 
Company,  foruu>rly  the  ])rincipal  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  lies.  This  is  the 
town  and  harbor  of  St.  Paul.  It  is,  therefore,  the  only  port  fVecpu'uted 
by  strangers,  and  we  shall  be  more  ])articular  in  its  description. 

Th(;iii>jiatsk{)V  Ray  is  formed  by  the  cai)e  of  that  name  on  the  south, 
and  Long  or  Barren  (Sterile)  Island  on  th<i  north,  an  opening  of  eight 
miles  in  a  north  one  (pnirter  west  ami  south  one-(pnuter  east  direction. 
It  is  six  miles  deep,  and  its  southwest  portion  is  filled  with  rocks. 

The  fn'<pu'nt  and  lasting  fogs  which  occur  here  would  render  the 
approach  to  this  bay  very  difficult  if  it  were  not  for  the  island  named 
Ougack,  lying  fifteen  miles  s»)nth  of  (^ape  Tschiniatskoy,  and  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  land.  This  being  the  oidy  island  on  th(>  east 
coast  to  the  south  of  the  bay,  it  becomes  an  infallible  point  of  recogni- 
zance on  approaching  it. 


•  Many  partirulurs  of  tho  (jrronp,  in  addition  to  tlioH(<  oontainMl  in  the  arronnts  of 
the  KiiH^ian  dimovtiry  l)y  Dr.  Coxo,  and  I'allaM,  will  hi'  found  in  LisiaiiMky'H  Voyimi', 
eltap.  X,  jiap'  IIM)  ct  mq;  UillinfJi'M  Voyaj^o,  by  Martin  !San«'i-;  IjiiiKHdortV'H  TravolH; 
("ook'H  Third  Voya^f,  vol.  lit ;  and  Vancouver's  Voya^jc,  vol,  iii.  TIioho  will  frhv  a 
good  idea  of  tlio  condition  and  roHoun-oH  of  thiH  inluwpitahlu  country. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


89 


naiiu'd 
•o  an<l 
osmt 
•cogiii- 


Dinits  of 
VoyiiK**, 
rnivcOn; 


The  IIauhor  of  St.  I'aul  Ih  oxct'lK'iit  in  every  respect;  the  depth 
Ave,  Mix,  aiul  HevtMi  t'athoiiiM,  i^ood  lioUUii);  ground.  Properly  speakiii^i^, 
it  JH  a  narrow  channel,  t'oruied  by  i'roclie  Island,  \vhi<  li  will  li«)ld  lint 
few  vessels  at  a  time;  the  outer  road  is  ejjnally  well  slu'ltered  ami 
secnre.  We  j;ive  Admiral  Krusenstern's  translations  of  Captain  (Jolow- 
nin's  directions: 

"The  port  of  St.  I'anl  has  two  entrances:  one  from  the  south,  by  the 
Bay  of  Tschiniatskoy,  the  other,  from  the  north,  passes  tiirou;;h  the 
outer  road.  Neither  is  danjjerons  if  the  winds  be  favorable  and  the 
weather  sntliciently  «'lear  to  distint^uish  the  slnnes  around  the  port;  but 
it  should  not  be  approached  durin;;:  the  ni^ht  or  in  foj^;,  for  there  are  no 
lights,  and  the  (rurrents  nniy  carry  you  easily  on  t«)  the  shoals  and  rocks, 
which  are  abundant  on  all  sides. 

"As  soon  as  you  have  cleared  Caj)e  Tschiiuatskoy,  you  find  before  you 
a  rock  calh'd  (lorbun  by  Captain  Lisiansky ;  str'er  northwest  «)ne-«puirter 
west,  ov  northwest  ♦hree-(|uarters  west,  true,  and  you  will  soon  seeaheaJ 
a  snudl  hi;;h  island,  Toporkowa,  upon  which  yon  must  be  (careful  to  direct 
your  course.  This  island  will  show  you  the  «lirection  of  the  current;  steor 
right  upon  it,  leaving  to  starboard  Barren  (or  Sterile)  Island,  and  then 
the  chanuel  which  separates  it  from  another  callcid  Woody  (Boisee) 
Island.  When  abreast  of  the  south  jioint  of  the  latter,  which  may  be 
readily  known  by  the  rocks  surrounding  it,  bear  to  the  north,  ranging 
along  the  western  shore  of  Woody  Isle  as  near  as  possible,  paying 
attention  to  tlie  soundings,  which  diminish  regularly  on  either  side  up 
to  the  entrance  of  the  i)ort.  Following  these  directions,  if  the  wiiul  be 
not  contrary,  and  carrying  short  sail,  you  may  pass,  without  a  pilot,  the 
shoals  on  the  western  sid(!  near  two  isles  (unirked  A  and  B  on  Krn.sen- 
stern's  chart)  ami  reach  the  entrance  of  the  port.  Although  buoys  are 
nuirked  at  the  entrance,  they  must  not  be  expected,  but  there  is  no 
doubt  but  the  agent  of  the  company  will  constantly  attend  to  these 
nuitters. 

"  If,  aft«'r  passing  along  the  west  coast  of  Woody  Isle,  the  wind  or 
other  obstacles  prevent  an  advance,  you  may  anchor  in  i>erfect  security 
until  the  w«'ather  becomes  more  favorable.  In  case  a  vesst'l  may  have 
entered  the  bay,  and  the  wiml  will  not  allow  her  to  follow  the  foregoing 
r<mte,  and  it  is  abs«>lutely  necessary  that  she  should  reach  the  ptut,  she 
will  iind  a  good  shelter  very  near  Ca|)e  Kscarpe,  (steep,)  on  tlu^  western 
side  of  the  bay.  In  this  case,  after  nearing  the  llorbun  liock,  run 
directly  for  this  <ape,  or  to  west  three  4iuart<'rs  north,  until  a  remarkable 
jutting  point  b«'ars  west  northwest;  it  isrea<lily  <listinguishedon  tliislow 
coast  by  its  elevation  and  its  peaked  form.  As  soon  as  Cape  ICscarpe  is 
passed,  <hang«'  the  course  towards  the  starboard,  to  anctlior  under  Topcu- 
kowa  Islami,  from  whence  yon  amy  readily  reach  the  harbor,  either  under 
sail  or  by  towing. 

"To  enter  the  harbor  of  St.  Paul  by  the  northern  passage,  sti'er  for 
Cape  IMne;  then,  being  near  to  this  cape,  which  ought  to  bear  to  north- 


II 


§0 


ALASKA    DIRKCTOBY. 


west,  (liHtiitit  11  milt-  or  luilf  a  iiuIp,  run  into  tlui  niiiMlo  of  tlio  <'hann«l 
botwcrn  Kodiack  and  Woo<ly  IhU»,  <!ar«»t'ull.v  ohwrvinti:  not  to  j;o  into 
I08H  than  ('i{,dit«'('n  or  twiMity  fathoinH  depth,  Hti'«'rinjj;  directly  for  the 
iHhinds  (A  and  II)  before  mentioned,  to  the  west  of  Woody  lsh%  until 
the  town  of  Ht.  Patd  is  seen;  you  may  tlien  enter  tlie  port  itself,  or 
rutli<>r  anidtor  in  the  outer  road.  Tiie  best  aneliora;;(^  is  umh'r  Woody 
IhIo,  in  tliirteen,  fourteen,  or  lifteen  fathoms,  sand.  Nearer  the  port  the 
bottom  i»  of  nmd,  but  here  you  are  not  80  well  shelt»'red  as  under 
Woody  Isle. 

If  you  wish  to  enter  the  port  under  sail,  you  must  take  care  of  the 
contraiy  current,  or  have  jjood  cables;  the  breadth  of  the  harbor  not 
allowing  y<»u  U>  bear  up,  you  must  drop  anchor  when  under  way.  In 
the  Hunnuer  it  would  be  better  to  anchor  in  the  road,  mooring  in  the 
direction  of  the  ti<les;  the  tiood  running  to  northeast,  and  the  ebb  to 
Houthwest.  The  starboanl  anchor  ou«;ht  to  be  laid  towards  southwest, 
and  the  larboard  n<M'theast,  having  an  optMi  hawse  for  northwest  and 
west  wimls,  which  blow  strongly  and  in  jjusts.  The  tithi  changes  regu- 
larly every  six  hours." 

To  the  south  of  ('ape  (treville,  or  Tolstoy,  (greait  or  large,)  i«  Cape 
Tonkoy,  (Hue  or  small,)  of  the  Russian  charts.  It  forms  tlu^  northeast 
l)oint  of  Igatskoy  or  Ihack  Hay,  a  dee|)  inlet  of  sixteen  miles  to  the  west, 
but  oidy  two  and  one  half  miles  in  breadth.  Then^  are  some  good  har- 
bors in  it,  and  ('aptain  Lisiansky,  above  all,  ])rai.st>s  one  lying  in  the 
southwest  i)art  of  it.  In  the  bay  the  Uussian  Anu^rican  Company  have 
an  establishment.  In  entering  the  bay,  keep  close  to  the  south  shore; 
the  north  is  bestn'wed  with  rocks. 

Twelve  miles  to  the  south  from  Igatskoy  Bay  is  Kihaulenskoy  or 
Kihulen  Hay,  where  the  company  also  have  an  establishment.  A«!Cord- 
ing  to  Lisiansky,  it  much  n^semldes  \ho.  former  bay,  only  that  it  is  not 
so  deep.  It  is  properly  composed  of  two  bays,  either  of  which  att'ords 
shelter. 

In  tlu'  southeast  part  of  Ko<liack,  to  the  south  of  the  last  nanu><l  bay, 
lies  Salt<'hidack  or  Siachhulack  Island,  which  is  nearly  twenty  miles 
broad  southwest  aii<l  northeast.  Neither  ('00k  nor  Vant'ouver,  who 
passed  it,*  could  se«'  that  it  was  an  island,  because  the  strait  that  sepa- 
rates it  from  Kodiack  is  not  above  two  hundred  and  (Ifty  yanis  wide  in 
parts,  though  some  miles  at  the  openings,  ('ape  Harnabas  of  (/ook  is 
the  northeast  pi>int  of  this  island. 

Two  headed  Point  of  Captain  Cook  is,  as  he  supposed,  on  a  small 
island,  the  position  of  which  was  determined  by  Vancouver,  at  eight  u>iles 
southw<'st  by  west  oiu'  half  west  from  the  s»>uthw«'st  point  of  8altchi«lack 
Island.  It  is  probnbly  the  sanu'-  island  that  Admral  Sarytschelf  calls 
Nasikok,  and  according  to  him  is  distinguished  by  a  high  mountain,  and 
is  the  northernmost  of  four  isles  that  must  Uv  doubled  before  entering 
the  Port  of  the  Kpiphany.    This  accords  with  what  Vancouver  says, 


•  Cook's  Third  Voyage*,  vol.  lit;  uu<l  Vuucouver,  vol.  iii. 


d< 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


91 


lidiu-k 
V  <  alls 
n,  an«l 

«nys, 


that  it  forms  the  south wost  point  of  th«s  j;n»!it  road  or  thr  chiinnol 
lM;tw(>(>ii  Kodiurk  and  Haltt'hidack.  The  opening;  of  this  is  hovi'U  niih'H 
wide;  thcni  aro  two  harbors  in  it  on  thr  Kodiark  shore;  tli<»  Hrst,  callod 
Kiack,  is  opposite  (<apu  Hay,  (Myssoff  of  th«>  Knssian  charts,)  and  ton 
iniloH  north  of  tho  fornuT  'u  Nuyoumhick  Hay. 

At  a  f(>w  niih'H  north  of  thiH  hist  is  Epipliany  Hay;  it  is  small,  only  a 
milo  in  circ'nnifon'iicc,  and  sixty  yards  in  tln'opiMiiii};.  Tlio(h*ptli  is  tern, 
<'i};lit,  s(>V(>ii,  and  four  and  a  half  fathoms,  muddy  bottom.  The  inhabit- 
ants call  it  Manikoks,  and  it  was  here  that  (Micli}>;hotf  tlrst  laiKhul,  and 
Hillings  remained  some  days,  in  17JM).  The  «'liarts  lu'icaliout  are  very 
«lefectivp,  and  re(|nire  revision. 

Tlu^  southern  jioint  of  Kodia«*k  was  called  by  Cook  Cajn'  Trinity.  Tt 
was  also  placed  by  Vancouver.  At  eh'ven  and  a  half  miles  south  of 
Cape  Trinity  lie  two  isles,  named  by  ('ook  Trinity  Isles ;  they  are  so  «'lose 
tojifether  that  they  mifjht  almost  be  considered  as  one  island ;  to;;('ther 
they  are  twelve  lea^rues  in  lenjjth,  east  and  west,  and  two  or  throe  lea^jfues 
fn)in  tluM'oast.  On  the  UusNian  (iharts  the  eastern  is  called  Sitt-hunak; 
the  western,  Tuf»idack. 

The  western  shore  of  Kodiack,  aUhoup:h  the  Uussian  <'omi)any  liave 
had  it  for  many  years,  is,  as  before  stated,  but  little  known.  To  the 
north  of  Capo  Trinity  is  Alitock  Hay,  where  the  company  have  an  estab- 
lishment; the  westernmost  point  of  Kodiack,  Cajx'  Ykolik,  in  57°  14' 
north,  lies  north-northwest  one  quarter  west,  thirty-ei;;ht  miles  from  ('ape 
Trinity;  and  at  ei;;hteen  miles  northeast  of  it  is  the  company's  estab- 
lishment, named  (hirluck.  It  is  from  here  that  th(>  baidaresd(>stined  for 
tlu!  opposite  shore  depart,  the  Strait  of  Cheli<»:liort"bein<j[  nairowest  here. 

At  twelve  miles  to  the  north  of  Carhu-k  is  Oujack  or  Oohiack  Hay. 
It  Ih  a  deep  indentation,  extending'  twenty-seven  miles  in  a  south  south- 
east three-quarters  east  direction,  the  distamte  between  itshea<l  and  that 
of  KiliKh'iiskoy  Hay,  on  the  opposite*  side  of  Kodiack,  bein;;  (uily  eijjht 
miles.  In  the  opeiiiny;  of  the  bay  is  an  island,  which  forms  a  channel  on 
either  side. 

The  muthern  point  of  the  bay  is  formed  by  a  very  i)roJectin|;  cape  of 
the  same  nam(>.  To  the  ri}>htof  it  is  a  second  bay,  which  is  but  ten  miles 
d«'ep,  to  the  northeast  of  which  is  Oiijjanick  Isle. 

The  northwest  point  of  Kodiack,  accordinj^  to  liisiansky,  is  in  latitude 
.■)7°  28',  and  twt)  miles  from  this  point  li«*s  the  exti'eme.of  North  Island, 
which  extends  llfteen  miles  north-northwest  and  east-northeast.  This  is 
separat<<l  by  a  narrow  channel  from  Afognaek  Isle,  an  eastern  point  of 
which  was  named  by  Cook  Cape  W'hitsuiuhiy.  A  channel  about  half  a 
mile  broa<l  separates  it  from  Clionja«'k  Island,  which  is  fouiteen  miles 
fnuii  south  to  iKUth.     It  is  this  island  that  Cook  calls  Cape  Hanks. 

Tlu^  northern  coast  of  Kodiack,  North  Island,  and  the  south  part  of 
Afo^nack,  form  a  channel  twenty  miles  lon^  and  two  wide,  in  which  ten 
to  tw<'nty  fathoms  water  is  found. 

Atfcuir  miles  from  ('ape  Whitsunday  is  an  island  eiH;ht  miles  in  lcn<j;th, 


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92 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


called  by  the  Eussians  Evratschey,  the  name  of  a  small  animal  very 
abundant  there,  from  the  skins  of  which  the  inhabitants  make  their 
parques,  or  fur  shirts.  This  island  is  what  Behring  supposed  to  be  the 
northeast  point  of  Kodiack,  and  called  it  Cape  St.  Heruiogenes.  Cook 
found  it  to  be  an  island,  and  i)reserved  Behring's  appellation.  The 
Trinity  Bay  of  Cook  lies  between  it  and  the  northeast  part  of  Kodiack ; 
but  a  better  knowledge  shows  that  the  term  is  not  applicable,  though 
Cook  did  not  doubt  the  existence  of  tlie  north  channel  separating  the 
islands.  To  the  north  of  St.  Hernu)genes  are  some  rocks  discovered  by 
Cook.* 

CiiELEKHOFF  STRAiT.t — Cook  Called  the  north  entrance  of  Chelighoft' 
Strait  Smoky  Bay.  It  separates  Kodiack  from  the  continent  north  of 
the  Peninsula  of  Aliaska,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  Russian  com- 
mander who  first  brouglit  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjoining  countries 
under  subjection. 

Up  to  a  recent  period  the  western  side  of  the  strait  in  question  was 
comparatively  uidiuown ;  but  in  18I52  it  was  examined  and  surveyed  by 
Mr.  Wassilieff,  an  officer  of  the  Kussian  navy,  in  the  service  of  the  llus- 
sian  American  Company,  in  baidares,  and  it  is  from  the  manuscript  chart 
then  drawn  up  that  the  charts  have  been  corrected.  They  show  that  the 
strait  is  narrower  than  was  at  first  sui)posed ;  it  does  not  exceed  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  miles. 

Cape  Douglas,  which  has  been  before  described,  is  the  northwest 
limit  of  the  strait,  and  from  this  point  the  survey  extended  to  a  bay  in 
latitude  5VP  30',  opposite  to  which  are  the  Evdokeeff  Islands.  A  great 
number  of  bays  were  examined  by  Captain  Wasailieflt"  within  this  space, 
which  appears  to  offer  good  shelter.  Of  these  it  is  only  necessary  to 
particularize  one,  that  called  Ponalo,  in  latitude  47°  40',  longitude  155° 
0'  west,  which  is  five  miles  distant  from  the  great  lakeNanouantoughat, 
from  which  tiie  river  Ougagouk  flows.  This  river  has  been  adopted  by 
Krusenstcrn  as  the  northern  limit  of  the  Peninsula  of  Aliaska.  Here  is 
the  portage  for  the  merchandise  which  the  agents  of  the  liussian  Com- 
pany transmit  to  their  establishment  situated  on  the  shores  of  Bristol 
Bay. 

The  Peninsula  of  Aliaska  is  a  remarkable  tongue  of  land  extending 
from  the  river  Ougagouk,  above  mentioned,  to  the  Strait  of  Isanotzky, 
separating  it  from  Ounimak,  the  easternmost  of  the  Aleutian  Archipel- 
ago, an  extent  of  three  hundred  and  thirty  miles;  its  breadth  diminish- 
ing from  ninety  miles  in  the  north  to  twenty-five  miles  in  the  southern 
parts. 

From  its  configuration  it  may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  the 
Aleutian  Islands.  In  early  times  the  knowledge  of  this  land  was  most 
vague.  Prior  to  Captain  Cook's  visit  to  Behring's  Sea,  the  only  geo- 
graphical authority  was  a  curious  map,  evidently  derived  from  oral  infor- 


mation, on  which  the  numerous  islands  and  lands  were  distributed  with 


*Cook'8  Third  Voyage,  vol.  iii,  p.  384. 


t  Chelighoff,  Kruseusteru. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


93 


1  of  the 
•i\s  most 
mly  geo- 
•al  iiifor- 
ed  with- 


out any  regard  to  their  actual  relative  size  and  position,  but  which  car- 
ries with  it  some  autlienticity,  because  nia^y  of  the  names  in  it  are  now 
more  definitely  applied  to  known  points.  This  map  is  prefixed  to  an 
account  of  these  regions  by  Von  Stichlin,  in  1774.*  It  is  also  api)ended 
to  Midler's  Vovages  from  Asia,  17()l.t  In  tliese  works  tlie  land  in 
question  figures  as  the  large  island  of  Alaschka,  filling  up  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  space  now  known  to  be  occu[)ied  by  Behring's  Sea. 

The  first  authentic  notice  of  its  shores  was  that  given  in  the  account 
of  the  third  and  disastrous  voyage  of  Captain  Cook,  who  examined, 
though  but  very  slightly,  both  sides  of  the  peninsula  at  different  })oiuts. 
His  observations  are  but  necessarily  slight,  from  his  having  but  imper- 
fectly seen  the  land.  The  southern  side  remained  in  tlie  same  imperfect 
state  until  the  examination  previously  noticed,  by  Captain  Wassilieft'  in 
1832.  Its  northern  side,  of  which  we  shall  speak  hereafter,  is  somewhat 
better  known. 

From  the  Bay  of  Poualo,  the  northeastern  limit  of  the  peninsula 
noticed  above.  Captain  Wassilieff's  examination  extended  to  a  large  bay 
in  latitude  50°  40',  and  abreast  of  the  Evdokeeft"  Islands.  This  bay  has 
been  named  Wassilieii'  Bay.  Tlie  space  between  Poualo  Bay  and  this 
l)oint  contains  a  great  number  of  bays,  and  all  along  the  coast  are  numer- 
ous islands,  all  of  which  are  named  on  Captain  Wassilieff's  chart,  but  of 
which  we  have  no  especial  description.! 

The  EvDOKEEFi;^  ISLANDS  Were  discovered  by  Behring  on  August  4, 
1741,  and  named  by  him  in  honor  of  the  saint  of  the  day.  They  form 
a  group  of  seven  islands,  the  three  largest  of  which  are  called  Simidin, 
Alexinoy,  and  Ageach.  According  to  Admiral  Sarytscheft",  who  passed 
between  these  islands,  they  are  very  close  to  each  other,  very  high,  and 
surrounded  with  rocks,  some  under  Avater,  others  uncovered.  It  was 
geneially  supposed  thai  the  largest  of  these  islands,  Simidin,  was  the 
same  as  that  which  Cook  named  F(»ggy  Island;  but  this  is  controverted 
by  Krusenstern,  who  thinks  that  this  is  to  be  found  between  this  group 
and  the  land.  Captain  Golownin  did  not  see  the  large  island  of  Simidin, 
but  determined  the  position  of  the  southernmost  island  of  the  group  »8 
latitude  50°  0'  north,  longitude  150°  22'  west. 

St.  Stephen's  Island. — The  following  are  Admiral  Krusenstern's 
remarks  on  the  islands  of  St.  Stephen  and  Tschirikoff :  "  In  the  memoir 
accompanying  the  chart  of  the  Kodiack  Islands  I  have  already  said  that 
Vancouver  considered  that  the  island  named  by  him  Tschirikott"  was 
identical  with  Foggy  Island§  of  Behring;  but  as  Cook  and  he  have  taken 


*An  Accouut  of  the  New  Northern  Archipelago,  by  J.  Vou  Sta'hlin.  8vo.  London,  1774, 

t  Voyajrcs  from  Asia,  &c.,  by  S.  MUller.  4to.  London,  n*)]. 

t  Captiiin  Liitke  states  tha,  M.  Wassilieif 's  journal  was  placed  in  his  hands,  but  that 
instead  of  elncidating  his  <;hart,  which  seems  to  merit  confidence,  he  absolutely  found 
it  to  differ  very  grtiatly  from  his  delineations.  Not  giving  any  particulars  as  to  the 
nature,  appearance,  or  productions  of  tlie  cojtst,  but  little  could  be  gathered  from  it. — 
Voyage  du  Sduiavine,  Part.  Naut.,  p.  274. 

^  Tumannoi-ostrow  c'est-iVdire,  L'Isle  Ndbuleuse. — Mllllor,  p.  21)1. 


r 


.;v  7': 


94 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


difi'ereut  islands  for  Foggy  IsLmd,  I  hrjve  attentively  examined  Behring's 
journal  as  to  the  position  of  this  island,  and  this  is  what  it  says  : 

*' During  the  night  of  the  1st  August,  1741,  Behring  suddenly  saw  laud, 
and  Hs  a  strong  current,  bearing  to  the  south,  accompanied  bj'  a  thick 
fog  and  a  calm,  was  carrying  the  ship  directly  on  to  the  land,  he  was 
obliged  to  anchor  in  sixteen  fathoms.  On  the  morrow,  at  8  a.  ni.,  he 
saw  that  the  land  from  which  he  was  about  four  miles  distant  was  an 
island  which,  in  an  east  and  west  direction,  was  about  three  iniles  in 
length;  a  reef  iirojected  for  three  miles  oil"  the  east  point,  which  bore 
east-southeast  from  him.  At  8  p.  m.  he  weighed  anchor  in  a  thick  fog, 
which  constantly  hung  over  him,  and  on  the  following  day  at  7  a.  m., 
he  njade  an  island  to  the  south  at  the  distance  of  seven  German  leagues. 
Behring  places  this  island  in  55°  32',  and  gives  it  the  name  of  St. 
Stephen,  a  name  which  has  not  been  i)re8erved ;  tliat  of  Foggy,  by  which 
it  is  now  known,  was  probably  applied  to  it  by  the  officers  of  his  ship, 
on  account  of  the  fogs  which  occurred  at  the  time  of  its  discovery. 

"The  4th  of  August  he  found  himself  near  the  Evdokeeff  Islands,  the 
southernmost  of  which  bore  to  the  south-southwest  three-quarters  west 
at  twenty  miles'  distance;  the  latitude  on  this  day  is  marked  as  55°  45'. 
But  we  know  that  the  Evdokeeff  Islands  lie  in  56°  10';  it  follows  that 
Behring's  latitude  is  nearly  half  a  degree  too  far  to  the  south  ;  if  this 
error  is  applied  to  St.  Stephen,  we  get  latitude  50°  0'.  Then  if  the  lati- 
tude and  extent  of  this  island  are  com^j-ared  with  the  latitude  and  size  of 
Tschirikoff  Island,  which  is  t.'n  leagues  in  circuit,  it  nuist  be  clearly 
seen  that  they  cannot  be  identical,  as  has  hitherto  been  believed ;  and 
it  is  in  consequence  of  this  supposed  identity  that  the  island  of  St. 
Stephen  has  been  entirely  omitted  from  the  charts.  I  will  now  prove 
that  Cook,  Vancouver,  and  Admiral  Sarytscheff,  have  all  seen  an  island 
where  the  island  of  St.  Stephen  ought  to  be  placed.  Cook  makes  no 
mention  in  his  journal  of  this  island,  but  it  is  found  on  his  chart;  and  a 
passage  in  Vancouver,  which  I  will  presently  quote,  demonstrates  that 
he  saw  it.  Admiral  Sarytscheff  being,  June  25,  1721,  in  the  midst  of 
the  Evdokeeff  Islands,  observed  in  latitude  50°  10'.  The  day  following 
he  found  himself  in  latitude  50°  20',  and  half  a  degree  more  to  the  east. 
It  is  stated  in  his  journal  for  this  day:  'At  1  o'clock  p.  m.  we  saw  a 
low  island  to  the  south  50°  east,  at  the  distance  of  twenty-six  miles, 
which  bears  the  name  of  Oukamock ;  the  latitude  of  this  island  ought 
then  to  be  50°  C'  On  the  original  draft  of  his  voyage  it  is  even  placed 
in  50°  14'.  The  mean  of  these  is  50°  10',  which  does  not  differ  much 
from  that  of  the  St.  Stephen  Island  of  Behring,  which  was  made  to  bear 
east  one-half  south,  when  the  Evdokeeff  Islands  bore  from  south-south, 
west  three-quarters  west  to  west-southwest  one-half  west. 

"  Vancouver  obseived,  Ai)ril  4,  1794,  in  latitude  55°  48',  and  longitude 
154°  50'.  Having  run  from  noon  to  0  p.  m.  forty  miles  to  north  05° 
8ast,  the  latitude  at  this  time  would  be  50°  5',  and  longitude  153°  50'. 
Trinity  Island  then  bore  north  10°  east,  and  another  island  from  west 


I 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


95 


au 


[ugitude 

J)rth  G50 

153°  50'. 

)m  west 


one-half  north  to  west  by  south.  To  judge  by  the  hititude  and  the 
direction  of  the  wind,  this  other  island  could  be  no  other  than  the  St. 
Stephen  Island  of  Behring.  On  this  occasion  Vancouver  remarks: 
'  The  latter  I  took  to  be  that  which  was  laid  down  in  Captain  Cook's 
chart  to  the  southwest  of  Trinity  Island.'  This  land,  though  not  noticed 
in  Captain  Cook's  Journal,  was  seen  and  passed  on  its  southern  side  by 
the  Discovery  in  that  voyage,  which  proves  that  the  liesolution  and  Dis- 
covery could  not  have  gone  i\ir  to  the  north  of  Tschirikoft"'s  Island, 
which  was  obscured  at  that  time  by  thick  foggy  weather.* 

"  For  these  reasons  I  do  not  hesitate  to  assign  a  place  in  my  chart  for 
the  discovery  of  Behring.  I  have  placed  it  in  50°  10',  and  lo5°  213',  to 
the  north  150°  west  seven  leagues  from  the  northern  point  of  Tschiri- 
kolfs  Island,  and  I  have  preserved  the  name  of  St.  Stephen,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  being  the  name  given  to  it  by  Behring,  but  also  because 
Foggy  Island  is  given  by  Cook  to  another  island."t 

Tsohirikoff's  Island  was,  therefore,  discovered  by  Vancouver,  April 
4,  1704,  and  nanu'xl  by  him  after  the  companion  of  Behring.  He  states  the 
circumstances  thus :  "The  northeast  point  of  the  island  bore  by  com- 
I^ass  north  55°  west,  distant  about  two  leagues ;  its  eastern  extremity, 
which  is  a  low,  rocky  point,  and  was  our  nearest  shore,  south  00°  west 
two  miles ;  and  its  south  point  south  30°  west,  about  two  leagues  dis- 
tant. In  the  point  of  view  in  which  we  saw  the  southwestern,  southern, 
and  eastern  sides  of  this  island,  it  appeared  t  form  a  so.newhat  irregular, 
four-sided  figure,  about  ten  leagues  in  circuit,  having  from  its  western 
part,  which  is  low  and  fiat,  and  which  had  the  appearance  of  being  insu- 
lar, a  remarkably  high,  flat,  square  rock,  lying  in  a  direction  south  00° 
west,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles,  between  which  and  the  island  is  a 
ledge  of  snuiller  rocks.  The  season  of  the  year  greatly  contributed  to 
increase  the  dreary  and  inhospitable  aspect  of  the  country  ;  in  addition 
to  which  it  seemed  to  be  entirely  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubs,  or  they 
were  hidden  beneath  its  winter  garment  of  snow,  which  appeared  to  be 
very  deep  about  its  southeast  parts,  consisting  of  high,  steep  cliffs ;  but 
on  its  western  side,  which  was  considerably  lower,  this  appearance  was 
not  so  general.  About  its  shores  were  some  small  whales,  the  first  we 
had  noticed  during  this  passage  to  the  North."| 

A  rock  is  marked  on  the  charts  to  the  southwest  of  the  island  of  Sim- 
idin,  in  latitude  55°  50' ;  evidently  a  different  position  to  those  recorded 
by  Cook  as  having  been  seen  June  16,  1778,  a  cluster  of  snuill  islets,  or 
rocks,  lying  about  nine  leagues  from  the  coast,  which  would  be  in  about 
latitude  56°  3',  and  longitude  158°  0'  west. 

Of  this  part  of  the  coast  of  the  peninsula,  as  before  stated,  our  knowl- 
edge is  very  scanty.  Captain  Cook,  who  is  almost  the  only  navigator 
who  tells  us  anything  about  it,  says :  "  For  some  distance  to  the  south- 
west (of  Foggy  Cape)  this  country  is  more  broken  or  rugged  than  any 


'  Vaucouver,  vol.  iii,  p. 


t  Knisensteni,  part  ii,  pp.  105,  106. 


t  Vaucouver,  vol.  iii,  pp.  86,  87. 


' 


96 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


part  we  had  yet  seen,  both  with  respect  to  the  hills  theniaelvea  and  to 
the  coast,  which  seemed  full  of  creeks,  or  sinall  inlets,  none  of  which 
appeared  to  be  of  any  great  depth.  Perhaps,  upon  acloserexamination, 
some  of  the  projecting  points  between  these  inlets  will  be  found  to  be 
islands.  Every  part  had  a  very  barren  aspect,  and  was  covered  with 
snow  from  the  summits  of  the  hills  down  to  a  very  small  distance  from 
the  sea-coast." 

Choumagin  Island. — This  group,  which  is  the  next  considerable 
collection  west  of  the  Elvdokeeff  group,  according  to  a  notice  inserted  in 
the  Memoir  of  Captain  Liitke,  is  composed  of  flfteen  islands  and  seven 
smaller  islets.  They  received  the  name  of  Choumagin  (Ohoumaguine) 
from  Eehring,  in  memory  of  one  of  his  sailors,  who  was  buried  here.* 
Admiral  Sarytsch(?it',  in  his  journal,  names  the  two  largest  islands  of  the 
group  Ounga  and  Nagay.  The  first,  according  to  him,  extends  twelve 
leagues  from  north  to  south,  with  a  breadth  of  seven  leagues ;  he  places 
its  northern  extremity  in  latitude  55°  42'.  The  Island  Nagay,  with  a 
similar  directi(ui,  is  eight  leagues  in  length.  Besides  the  islands  of 
Ounga  and  Nagay,  Sarytschetf  nan)es  those  of  Kagai,  Sajouliucktusigh, 
Nuinack,  Tagh-Kiniagh,  and  Kiuniutanany :  all  these,  and  several  others 
not  named,  lie  very  close  together.  Kagay  Island,  according  to  Saryt- 
schetf,  ought  to  be  placed  in  latitude  55°  5'  north,  and  longitude  100° 
33'  west.  Captain  Golownin  saw  none  of  these  islands  except  Tagh-Kin- 
iagh, which  he  places  in  54°  5(>'  north,  and  159°  40'  west.  The  Island 
Nuinack  lies  five  leagues  to  the  southwest  of  this.  Cook  took  the  largest 
of  the  group  to  be  Kodiack. 

The  state  of  our  knowledge  respecting  this  group  may  be  summed  up 
in  few  words — it  is  very  imperfect  and  unsatisfactory.  There  is  no  ap- 
parent analogy  between  the  remarks  of  any  two  observers.  In  Captain 
Liitke's  work  he  gives  some  details  respecting  them  from  the  observa- 
tions of  John  Veniaminott*,  a  priest  who  has  visited  them,  and  who  has 
also  given  a  sketch  map  of  all  this  part;  but,  as  it  differs  so  much  from 
all  others,  and  those  necessarily  imperfect,  no  decision  can  be  arrived  at 
as  to  the  comparative  merits.  Under  these  circumstances  we  shall  con- 
fine our  extracts  to  that  of  the  Island  Ounga,  on  account  of  the  ftxct  of 
coal  existing  on  it. 

Ounga  is  the  largest  of  all,  and  the  westernmost  of  the  group.  Ac- 
cording to  the  observations  of  Stei)anoff,  of  the  Eussian  company,  its 
north  extreme  is  in  latitude  55°  37',  that  of  its  south  part  55°  II',  and 
its  length  about  twentj'-six  miles.  Its  breadth  is  about  half  its  length. 
(Memoir  of  M.  Tebenkoff.)  This  island  is  mountainous  and  cliffy,  par- 
ticularly on  its  south  coast,  but  the  northwest  side  extends  in  a  plain, 
which  terminates  in  the  low  cape  called  Tonkoi.  The  island  has  three 
bays :  the  largest,  Zakharovskaia,  is  on  the  northeast  side ;  it  is  open  to 
the  northeast,  but  the  anchorage  nmy  be  kept ;  here  the  vessels  of  the 
company  formerly  wintered.    There  are  some  islets  in  its  opening.    The 


wl 

of 
of 


*  MUUer's  D6couverte8  des  Busses,  pp.  262-JW7. 


\ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


97 


Ac- 
ly,  its 
I',  and 
jngtb. 

,par- 
1  plain, 

three 
[pen  to 
lof  the 
The 


second,  on  the  east  side,  penetrates  considerably  into  the  land,  but  it 
has  very  little  water.  On  tliis  bay  stands  a  village,  called  by  the  Itua- 
sians  Delarovskoi,  and  by  the  Alentes,  Ongnagak.  The  third  is  on  the 
south  coast.  There  are  lew  lakes  on  the  island,  but  there  are  as  many 
as  ten  small  rivers  affording  fish.  On  the  shores  there  is  a  great  deal  of 
drift-wood  to  be  found,  though  but  few  whales.  The  rocks  are  generally 
of  a  silicious  character. 

On  the  west  side  of  Zakharovskaia  Bay  there  are,  in  two  places,  some 
beds  of  coal,  arranged  in  perfectly  horizontal  strata,  at  one  hundred 
yards  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Tliey  have  commenced  working  them 
for  use.    On  the  north  side  much  petrified  wood  is  met  with. 

Upon  the  island  are  foxes  and  reindeer,  and  in  the  sea,  cod,  turbot, 
and  navaga.  Tlie  land  produces  bushes  of  alder  and  willow,  and  three 
or  four  species  of  bay.  Turnips  and  potatoes  grow  well  in  the  gardens 
of  the  inhabitants,  who  also  raise  pigs  and  fowls.* 

Cook  makes  the  channelwhichseparatesOunga  from  the  islands  which 
line  the  coast  of  Aliaska  at  this  parallel  only  five  or  six  miles  broad. 
When  in  the  middle  of  this  channel  he  observed  the  latitude  to  be  55° 
18',  and  it  is  according  to  this  observation  tliat  Krusenstern  placed  upon 
his  chart  the  islands  which  Cook  states  to  be  near  the  coast,  but  which 
are  too  distant  from  the  Choumagins  to  be  considered  as  belonging  to 
them. 

Captain  Cook  says :  "  I  believe  these  islands  to  be  the  same  that  Beh- 
ring  calls  Clioumagin  Islands,  or  those  islands  which  he  called  by  that 
name  to  be  a  part  of  them,  for  this  group  is  pretty  extensive.  We  saw 
islands  as  far  to  the  southward  as  an  island  could  be  seen;  they  com 
mence  in  the  longitude  of  200°  15'  east,  and  v».xtend  a  degree  and  a  half, 
or  two  degrees,  to  the  westward,  I  cannot  be  particular,  as  we  could 
not  distinguish  all  the  islands  from  the  coast  of  the  continent.  Most  of 
these  islands  are  of  a  good  height,  very  barren  and  rugged,  abounding 
with  rocks  and  deep  cliffs,  and  exhibiting  other  romantic  appearances. 
There  are  several  snug  bays  and  coves  about  them ;  streams  of  fresh 
water  run  from  their  elevated  parts;  some  drift-wood  was  floating 
around,  but  not  a  tree  nor  a  bush  was  to  be  seen  growing  on  the  land. 
A  good  deal  of  the  snow  still  lay  on  many  of  them ;  and  the  parts  of 
the  continent  which  showed  themselves  between  the  innermost  islands 
were  quite  covered  with  it."t 

Between  the  Choumagin  Islands  and  the  western  extremity  of  Aliaska, 
the  cr^stis  bordered  with  a  large  number  of  small  islands.  Admiral 
Sarytscheff,  who  passed  here,  says  in  his  journal  that  eight  of  them,  of 
which  he  gives  the  names,  are  larger  than  the  rest. 

Nanimack  Island,  nearly  tlie  westernmost,  is  four  leagues  to  the  north 
of  Sannak,  (presently  described.)  To  the  southeast  of  it  lie  a  quantity 
of  small  islets  and  rocks  above  water. 

*  Llitke,  Voyage  du  S6niavine,  Part.  Naut.,  pp.  267, 268. 
t  Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol.  ill,  pp.  412,  413. 
7  AD 


V 


■f-r- 


W 


98 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Animack,  or  Reindeer  Ivslaiul,  lies  six  miles  to  the  north  of  Nanimack. 
To  the  .southeast  and  east  of  this  ishmd  tliere  is  a  group  of  rocks  and 
islets  similar  to  those  projecting  to  the  southeast  from  Nan  imack  Island. 

Lialiuskigh  lies  to  the  northeast  of  Animack,  at  the  distance  of  four- 
teen miles. 

Tv^o  islands,  without  i  ames,  lie  at  th(»  distance  of  three  miles  from 
this;  one  to  the  north,  and  the  other  to  the  northeast. 

Kuegdogh  lies  to  the  east,  two  miles  oft'  from  the  fifth  island. 

Kitagotagh  lies  to  the  east-southeast,  at  the  distance  of  three  miles 
from  the  last  named  island. 

Ounatchogh,  two  miles  to  the  northeast  of  the  preceding ;  between 
these  two  last  there  is  a  high  and  pointed  rock. 

Cook  passed  these  islands  June  20,  1778,  and  estimated  their  distance 
from  the  coast  at  seven  leagues.  At  noon  on  this  day,  being  in  latitude 
540  44/^  Halibut  Island  bearing  south  05°  west,  he  made  some  land  to  the 
northward,  which  he  named  liock  Point.  It  is  ajiparently  one  of  the 
islands  lying  near  the  coast,  one  of  which  in  reality  is  in  latitude  54° 
59',  a  latitude  which  corresponds  with  that  of  liock  I*oint. 

Opposite  to  Ounatchogh  Island,  on  the  coast  of  Aliaska,  is  a  very 
lof*^y  volcano,  the  summit  of  which  fell,  in  178G,  during  an  eruption.  It 
is  perhaps  the  same  mountain  that  (Jook  saw  emitting  smoke :  "  The 
rocks  and  breakers  before  mentlo:?ed  forced  us  so  far  from  the  continent 
that  we  had  but  a  distant  view  of  the  coast  between  Rock  Point  and 
Halibut  Island ;  over  this  and  the  adjoining  islands  we  could  see  the 
main  laud  covered  with  snow,  but  particularly  some  hills,  whose  elevated 
tops  were  seen  towering  abov^e  the  clouds  to  a  nu)st  stupendous  height. 
The  most  southwesterly  of  these  hills  was  discovered  to  have  a  volcano, 
which  contiiuially  threw  up  vast  columns  of  black  smoke.  It  stands  not 
far  from  the  coast,  and  in  the  latitude  of  54°  48',  aiut  the  longitude  of  195° 
45'.east.  It  is  also  remarkable  from  its  figure,  Avhich  is  a  complete  cone, 
and  the  volcano  is  at  the  very  summit.  We  seldom  saw  this  (or  indeed 
any  other  of  these  mountains)  wholly  clear  of  clouds.  At  times  both  ba«e 
and  summit  would  be  clear,  when  a  narrow  cloud,  sometimes  two  or 
three,  one  above  another,  would  embrace  the  middle  like  a  girdle;  which, 
with  the  column  of  smoke,  rising  perpendicularly  to  a  great  height  out 
of  its  top,  and  spreading  before  the  wind  into  a  tail  of  vast  length,  made 
a  very  picturesque  appearance.  It  nuiy  be  worth  remarking,  that  the 
wind,  at  the  height  to  which  the  smoke  of  this  volcano  reached,  moved 
sometimes  in  a  direction  contrary  to  what  it  did  at  sea,  even  when  it 
blew  a  fresh  gale.  In  the  afternoon,  having  three  hours'  calm,  our  peo- 
ple caught  u])wards  of  a  hundred  halibut,  some  of  which  weighed  a 
hundred  pounds,  and  none  less  than  twenty  pounds."  This  was  in  thirty- 
five  fathoms  water,  and  three  or  four  miles  from  the  shore.  (Cook's 
Voyage,  vol.  iii,  pp.  416-17.)  . 

Sannak  or  Halibut  Island,  which  is  the  westernmost  of  those  on 
the  coast  of  Aliaska,  received  its  second  name  from  Cook,  on  account  of 


18 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


99 


a  very 

m.    It 
"  The 

itiuent 

ut  and 

see  the 

levated 

height. 

olcano, 

]nds  not 

of  105° 

;e  cone, 

indeed 

|)th  base 
two  or 
which, 
|ght  out 
li,  made 
ihat  the 
moved 
hen  it 
•ur  peo- 
lighcd  a 
thirty- 
(Cook'a 

those  on 
jount  of 


the  circumatance  hist  (juoted.  It  is  separated  from  the  coast  by  a  chan- 
nel four  leagues  in  breadth.  "This  island  is  seven  or  eight  leaguivs  in 
circuit,  and,  exc(q)t  the  head,  the  land  of  it  is  low  and  very  barren. 
There  are  several  small  islands  near  it,  all  of  the  same  appearance;  but 
there  seemed  to  be  a  i)assage  between  them  and  the  main,  two  or  three 
leagues  broad." — ((/ook.)  Halibut  Head,  is  a  round  hill  in  the  center,* 
which  he  nuide  when  thirteen  leagues  ott'  to  the  east-northeast. 

Since  Admiral  Sarytschett',  who  passed  in  sight  of  this  island,  June 
20,  1701,  none  of  the  llueisian  navigators  have  remarked  it.  It  is 
bestrewed  all  around  ics  circumference  with  naked  rocks  and  islets. 
Admiral  Sarytscheft"  makes  particular  mention  of  three  of  these  last, 
which  lie  at  the  eastern  part  of  the  island,  and  says,  further,  that  from 
the  western  extremity  of  this  island  a  line  of  rocks  above  water  extends 
towards  the  east  (f)  for  a  distan(!e  of  two  leagues.  Cook  did  not  see 
them. 

The  island  is  full  of  lakes,  from  whence  rivers  flow,  chiefly  to  the 
soutb  side,  and  are  very  abundant  in  fish.  There  are  foxes,  sea  calves, 
and  a  great  quantity  of  birds  of  all  si)ecies.  There  are  but  few  spots  for 
landing.  Tlie  natives  say  that  at  thirty  versts  (twenty  miles)  to  the 
southeast  or  south-southeast  of  Saiinak  there  is  a  bank  with  from  two 
and  a  half  to  nine  fathoms  of  water  on  it;  between  the  island  and  the 
bank  the  depth  is  eighteen  to  twenty-seven  fathoms;  there  are  also  six 
smaller  banks  visible  at  high  water.  Sea- weed  grows  at  times  on  them. 
No  vessel  sailing  here  has  seen  them,  so  their  existence  is  doubtful,  t 

The  Strait  of  Isanotsky,^  separating  Aliaska  from  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  was  known  to  exist  prior  to  1708;  for  subse(pient  to  that  year 
the  Eussiau  charts  have  shown  it,  though  upon  some  English  ones,  that 
of  Arrowsmith  in  particular,  it  was  omitted  until  many  years  afterwards. 

Isanotsky  Strait  not  only  separates  Alifiska  from  Ounimak,  but  it 
divides  the  latter  from  Ikatok  Island,  lying  three  and  a  half  miles  south 
of  the  southwest  point  of  Aliaska.  The  upper  or  northern  part  of  the 
strait  extends  for  twelve  miles  north  one-quarter  west,  ami  south  one- 
quarter  east ;  its  breadth  does  not  anywhere  exceed  four  miles.  At  its 
northern  extremity,  that  is,  between  Aliaska  and  the  northeast  point  of 
Ounimak,  (behind  which  lies  Krenitzin  Bay,)  the  strait  is  only  two  miles 
broad ;  it  is  even  narrower  according  to  the  account  given  by  Krenitzin, 
and  moreover  is  obstructed  by  a  large  number  of  banks.  This  is  what 
he  says :  "Tne  northwest  entrance  of  this  strait  is  extremely  difficult,  on 
account  of  the  sand-banks  and  currents  which  are  felt  during  tlie  ebb 
and  flood  tides.  That  to  the  southeast  is  very  much  easier,  and  the 
soundings  do  not  give  less  than  four  and  a  half  fatlioms."§    A  shoal  of 

*  Admiral  Sarytscheff  places  Halibut  Head  in  the  northwest  part  of  the  island. 
t  Captain  Liitke,  p.  274. 

t  Captain  Liitke  says  that  it  is  not  Issanotslcy  or  Isanotskoy.    The  name  of  the  strait 
is  the  same  as  the  Island  Sannnkh  (  Sannagh  or  Imannakh.) — Memoir,  p.  295. 
$  Nouvellcs  D^couvcrtes  des  Russes,  by  Coxe,  p.  254. 


100 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


lii 


conajdciuble  extent  is  marked  on  Krenitzin'seliart  in  the  middle  of  the 
strait,  which  almost  tills  up  its  entire  breadth.  On  the  chart  by  Khou- 
diakott'  (which,  with  the  former,  are  tiio  only  representations  of  any 
pretensions)  this  shoal  is  not  found;  but  the  northwest  point  of  Aliiiska 
is  here  surrounded  by  rocks ;  the  breadth  of  the  entrance  is,  notwith- 
standinjif,  not  less  than  two  miles ;  and  as  on  the  chart  soundinjjfs  are 
marked  throughout  its  extent,  it  must  be  inferred  thai  I\I.  Khondiakoif 
examined  the  strait  in  detail.  Which  of  the  two  charts  merits  the 
preference  cannot  be  decided  until  a  fresh  examination  is  made. 

The  lower  part  of  the  strait,  that  is,  the  portion  between  Ounimak  and 
Ikatok  Island,  is  eight  miles  long  by  four  broad.  This  breadth,  however, 
is  contracted  by  one-half  by  Kitenamagan  Island,  lying  half  a  mile  from 
Ikatok. 

From  the  north  end  strait  of  Isanotsky,  the  coast  of  Aliaska  runs  to 
the  north^nstward,  in  nearly  the  same  direction  as  the  southern  coast  of 
that  peninsula.  This  will  be  described  in  the  next  chapter,  in  connection 
with  the  remainder  of  the  coasts  of  the  Sea  of  Behving.  The  Aleutian 
Archipelago,  forming,  as  it  were,  a  broken  continuation  of  the  peninsula, 
will  follow. 

ALEUTIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

It  is  to  the  celebrated  Behring,  as  we  have  mentioned  regarding  the 
Kodiack  Islands,  that  liussia  owes  the  discovery  of  the  Aleutian  Islands. 
It  was  during  his  return  from  the  coast  of  America  iu  1741  that  he  dis- 
covered seve:  al  of  them,  now  known  under  the  names  of  Semitsch,  Kiska, 
and  Amtschitka.  In  1745  an  enterprising  merchant,  named  Basoff,  made 
a  voyage  hither  in  search  of  sea-otters  which  he  had  beard  were  abund- 
ant on  the  shor.  -  After  this  period  they  were  more  frequently  visited, 
and  they  daily  became  better  known.  *  The  geographical  positions  of  the 
group  we  owe  principally  to  the  Russian  Vice- Admiral  Sarytseheff,  who 
accompanied  Captain  Billings  in  his  expedition  in  1701-92.  He  deter 
mined,  by  astronomic  observations,  the  positions  of  the  greater  part  of 
the  islands,  and  constructed  charts  of  many  of  them,  among  others  a 
detailed  survey  of  his  own  of  the  island  of  Ounalashka,  which  is  up  to 
the  present  the  only  one  we  possess.  To  Captain  Cook,  too,  we  owe  some 
observations  on  this  island  and  some  others  near  it.  Captains  Golownin 
and  Kotzebue,  in  the  years  1817  and  1818,  determined  the  position  of 
some  of  their  points.  Captain  Llitke  has  given  a  long  article  upon  this 
archipelago,  drawn  from  the  journals  of  several  Russian  navigators,  who 
have,  at  ditterent  periods,  visited  these  islands,  and  particularly  from 
the  observations  of  Lieutenant  Tebenkoff,  and  M.  Inghestrom,  an  oflicer 
in  the  service  of  the  Russian- American  Company,  t  Many  of  these 
remarks  are  considered  by  Admiral  Krusenstern  not  to  be  of  sufiBcient 


•  See  Coxe's  Russian  Discoveries ;  Pallas,  in  his  Northern  Memoirs,  and  journal  de 
St.  Petersbonrg,  I781-'82. 
t  Voyage  du  Sdniaviue,  Part.  Naut.,  pp.  279-330, 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


101 


authority  to  carry  much  weight;  still,  in  our  general  ignorance  of  this 
archipelago,  they  become  valuable.  Captain  Beechey  has  also  added 
slightly  to  our  knowledge  of  them  ;  and  several  other  navigators,  whose 
names  will  be  alluded  to,  have  added  something  to  the  general  stock. 
The  islands  of  the  group  that  are  nearest  to  Kamtschatka  are  the  least 
known,  and  the  archipelago,  as  mentioned  relative  to  the  Kodiacik  Islands, 
are  in  the  possession  of  the  llussiau-American  Company,  who  have  some 
establishments  upon  them. 

The  Aleutian  Islands  form  a  chain,  which  extends  nearly  east  and 
west  from  the  Isle  of  Attou,  in  longitude  172°  45'  east,  to  the  peninsula 
of  Aliaska,  comprising  an  extent  of  23^  of  longitude,  and  between  51^ 
and  550  of  north  latitude. 

They  have  been  divided  into  several  groui)S.  The  western  or  Blignie 
group  is  composed  of  four  islands:  Attou,  Agattou,  Semitsch,  and 
Bouldyr.  Another  group  is  named  Rat  Islands;  a  third,  the  Aiulrean- 
owsky  group ;  and  the  eastern  group,  the  Fox  li^'ands,  because  these 
animals  are  only  found  on  the  islands  composing  that  particular  group. 
Krusenstern  considers  these  subdivisions  unnecessary;  he  comprehends 
them  all  under  the  one  title  of  Aleutian  Islands,  as  more  simple  and 
more  convenient.  Captain  Liitke  remarks  that  these  distinctions,  though 
not  absolutely  necessary,  assist  the  memory,  and  have  some  advantages. 
He  therefore  follows  the  divisions  formerly  adopted. 

On  all  these  islands  traces  of  volcanic  action  are  evident.  On  many  of 
them  there  are  volcanoes  in  activity,  and  some,  as,  for  example,  Ouni- 
nuik,  are  subject  to  continual  volcanic  eruptions  and  shocks.  The  Fox 
Islands  exceed  all  the  others  in  height;  the  further  we  advance  to  the 
west  the  lower  they  become.  The  direction  in  which  almost  all  the 
islands  of  the  Fox  group  lie,  lengthwise,  is  southwest  to  northeast. 
They  are  low  and  imrrow  to  the  southwest,  and  increase  in  breadth  and 
elevation  to  the  northeast.  But  beyond  the  Island  of  Amtchitka,  where 
the  general  direction  of  the  chain  rinis  to  the  northwest,  this  law  alters, 
and  the  southeast  extremities  of  the  island  are  lower  and  narrower,  and 
their  northwest  extremities  higher  and  broader. 

We  owe  the  subse(iuent  descrii)tions  to  Admiral  Krusenstern's  Me- 
moires  Hydrographiques  de  I'Atlas  de  I'Ocean  racilique,  1827,  part  ii, 
pp.  75,  at  seq.,iii\d  sup[>lement,  1835;  Captain  Liitke's  Voyage  du  Senia- 
viue,  183(5 ;  and  other  authors  as  quoted. 

The  following  description  commences  with  the  easternmost  of  the 
Archipelago,  and  proceeds  westward  in  succession. 


il'i ) 


FOX   ISLANDS. 


kmal  <ie 


This  group,  extending  from  Ounimak  to  Amoughta,  is  the  most 
important  of  the  Archipelago,  commercially,  on  account  of  the  produce 
of  the  chase  which  is  annually  drawn  from  them  ;  and,  geographically, 
from  their  central  situation  and  the  ports  they  contain.    They  are  better 

194597 


f^ 


I 


102 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Ji  ?'; 


known  than  the  othorw,  bnt  much  loss  mo  than  wonhl  \n\  8upi)os<»(l,  from 
the  niitnlttT  of  Hcamon  who  have  visited  them.  Hut  the  on(^  object  of 
tliese  visits  has  merfjed  all  other  considerations,  and  the  world  has  bene- 
fited but  little  from  the  airqnaintance. 

OuNiMAK  is  the  easternmost  of  the  group,  and  is  separated  from  the 
Peninsula  of  Aliaska  by  the  Strait  of  Isanotsky.  In  a  harbor  in  this 
strait  Krenit/in  wintered  in  170H.  Krnsenstcrn's  delineation  of  this 
island  is  elii<'tly  <lrawn  from  the  operations  of  M.  Khoudiakolf  in  1702, 
and  is  probably  very  erroiu>()us.  In  l.S2(ICaptain  Heec^hey  [)assed  thronjjh 
the  strait  separating  it  from  the  islands  to  the  southward.  He  calls  its 
sonthwest  point  \Vedge-slnii)e  Ca[K*,  before  which  lies  a  rock,  aiul  the 
narrowest  part  of  tlu^  strait  is  forme«l  by  the  Isle  Kongalga;  Hiechey 
makivig  the  distance  nine  and  a  half  miles,  while  KotzclMui  makes  it  six- 
teen miles,  and  twentyflve  miles  between  Ounimak  and  Akoun  Islands. 
Beeichey's  observations  have  been,  in  some  degree,,  (!ontirmed  by  others. 
These  and  other  discrepancies  render  it  very  desirable  that  a  more  com- 
plete knowledge  of  these  islands  should  be  obtained  ;  because,  although 
this  strait  may  not  be  the  best  for  jiassing  thnmgh  the  chain  to  the 
northward,  yet,  in  going  from  Behring's  Strait  or  Ounalashka  to  the 
southward,  it  is  to  be  preferred.  Kruseustern  lias  called  it  llurick 
Strait,  after  Kotzebue's  vessel. 

The  southernnu)st  point  of  Ounimak  is  called  in  Kmsenstern's  chart 
Capellitsou;  by  Captain  LUtke,  Cai>e  Kithou(;k  or  Khitkhoukh  ;  and, 
from  its  shape,  by  Captain  Beechey,  \Vedgesha])ed  Cai)e.  From  this 
southern  cape  the  coast  runs  to  the  northeast  to  Cape  Liitke,  beyond 
which  to  the  eastern  strait  the  coast  lias  not  been  examined.  The  south- 
west point  of  the  island  is  Cape  Saritcher,  so  named  by  Captain  Staniko- 
witch,  who  found  before  it  a  large  rock  siniilarlj^  situated  with  resi)ectto 
it  as  that  of  the  southern  cape.  From  this  Captain  Stanikowitch  fol- 
lowed the  coast  to  anotlier  cape  in  latitude  54°  51/  north,  which  he  called 
Mordviuott',  beyond  which  the  coast  still  remains  unknown.* 

There  is  some  doubt  as  to  the  true  size  of  the  islaiul.  Kruseustern 
makes  it  fifty  miles ;  Captain  Stanikowitch,  iu  the  MoUer,  makes  it  sixty- 
five  miles  in  a  north  52°  east  and  south  52°  Avest  direction,  and  its 
greatest  breadth  about  twenty -five  miles.  It  is,  so  to  speak,  but  the  cover 
to  a  furnace,  continually  burning  ;  on  the  summit  of  this  a  higli  moun- 
tain-chain extends  throughout  the  island,  having  several  spiracles,  by 
which  the  pent-up  fires  find  vent,  and  eject,  witlnmt  cessation,  their 
burning  products.  Notwithstamling  the  number  of  craters,  the  subter- 
ranean fire  causes  frequent  eartlupuikes.  The  highest  of  these  summits, 
the  Shishaldiu  Volcano,  was  measured  by  Cai)tain  Liitke  as  eight  thou 
sand  nine  huiulred  and  thirty-five  English  feet  high.  It  is  a  regular 
cone;  and  to  the  east  of  it  is  another,  with  a  double  summit.  It  stands 
nearly  in  the  center  of  this  island,  in  about  54°  45'  and  103°  59'.  At  six 
miles  from  the  southwest  side  is  another  equally  conical  volcano  called 


*  Kruseustern,  p.  95. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


103 


Pojfjromtno'i  or  Nosov.skoi,  wliicli  Kot/-ol)uo  says  is  five  tliousiind  five 
hundred  and  tweiity-Uvc  English  feet  in  height.  C'ook  mentions  this  as 
l^eing  entirely  covered  with  snow  in  July.  Tiie  IssannaUh  chain  has 
also  two  high  jK'aks  towards  the  northeast  extremity  of  the  island.  The 
whol(!  of  the  mountain  chains  are  nearer  the  south  than  the  ntuth  side.* 

A  broad  hedofgraA'c!  forms  the  northeast  extremity  of  the  islaiul,anda 
low  coast  extends  as  far  as  the  villagi'of  Shishaldin  without  any  shelter. 
Shishaldin  village  is  two-thirds  the  distaiuu^  from  the  ncntheast  extremity 
to  a  caixi  three  and  a  half  miles  cast  from  Cape  iMordvin«>ff.  The  land 
is  low  and  level  here,  and  a  river  yielding  abundance  of  fish  flows  past 
the  village.  Some  vegetables  are  cultivated  by  the  inhab  i  uts.  Be- 
yond this  the  coast  is  higher.  The  northwest  extremity,  CajH'  Alordvinott", 
(Cape  Noisak,)  is  in  latitude  a^o  51/^  longitude  Ui-i°  "•".  From  Capo 
Chichkoff,  which  is  bluff,  and  very  remarkable,  be(!i.  .,e  the  hn  1  on 
each  side  of  it  is  ver^- low,  to  the  west  extrennty  of  the  isliMul,  Cape 
Saritchev,  the  coh.sL  ibrujs  tlie  base  of  the  Pogrom^noi  ^  j1(  ano.  The 
latter  cape  "  bluff,  and  of  a  moderate  height.  At  seven  01  eight  miles 
from  it,  on  the  sunuiiit  of  the  coast,  is  the  village  of  P(»gromiiioi;  off  it 
there  is  a  boat-lamling.  Much  drift-wood,  sea  weed,  ;ind  animals  are 
thrown  on  the  shore  here.  At  four  or  live  miles  scuitheast  of  Cape 
Saritchev  is  the  small  village  of  Nosovskoi,  where  there  is  easy  land- 
ing. At  about  six  miles  to  the  southeast  of  this  is  the  high  steep, 
Cape  Khitoidc,  which  is  to  be  known  by  a  high  pile  of  stones  before  it, 
and  which  is  called  Ounga.  This  cape  is  mentioned  above;  and  to  the 
northeast  of  it,  which  is  the  direction  of  flu;  south  coast,  thenj  is  con- 
siderable ditticulty  in  reconciling  the  difterent  authorities.t  We  will 
therefore  let  it  pass. 

EuRiCK  or  OuNOiAK  Pass,  through  which  Kotzebue  passed  in  1817 
separates  Ouninmk  from  the  Krenitzin  Isles  to  the  southward.  Its  nar- 
rowest i)art,  as  before  mentioned,  is  about  nine  and  a  half  miles  broad. 
The  currents  are  very  violent  in  it.  Captain  Beechey  found  them  to 
be  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour  to  the  south  'MP  west,  and  mentions 
an  American  who  experienced  one  of  six  miles  an  hour. 

Although  Ounimak  Pass  is  the  widest  ami  safest  for  traversing  the 
Aleutian  chain  from  north  to  south,  and  vice  verr-1^  and  also  the  most  con- 
venient for  passing  into  the  nortiiern  i)art  of  the  Sea  of  Behring,  it  is 
not  so  advantageous  for  ships  which,  coniing  from  the  Pi^'iflc,  are  des- 
tined for  Ounalashka.  They  are  then  obliged  to  make  a  circuit  of  nearly 
twenty  leagues ;  and  after  having  cleared  the  strait,  they  must  run  at 
least  seven  or  eight  leagues  to  the  northwest  before  they  can  bear  up  for 
the  northernnu)st  Cape  of  Ounalashka.  For  this  reason  Captain  Wraugel 
recommends  Akoutan  Pass,  further  westward,  for  this  route. 

Krenitzin  Islands — The  islands  next  in  succession  to  Ounimak, 


*  Liitke,  Voyage,  &c.,  Part.  Nawt ,  pp.  292,  293. 
t  Liitke,  Voyage,  »fec.,  Part.  Nant,,  pp.  293-295. 


■^i»i*^Hj^fcji».'r"Fp^7^~^*F3»iT^-nTrn-' 


104 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY 


I 


Tebenkoff  calls  the  Krenitzin  Islands,  from  the  navigator  who  first  saw 
them.  They  are  five  in  number,  and  were  first  correctly  pla-sed  by  Kot- 
zebuf>,  though  there  is  a  detailed  description  of  them  by  a  Russian  navi- 
gator, Soiovieff,  in  the  relation  of  his  voyage  in  1770 'to  1775.t  The 
northeast  of  them,  called  by  Krenitzin*  Cougalga,  in  reality  consists  of 
two  islands,  Ouganok  and  Ouektock.  They  are  very  close  to  each 
other,  and  the  separation  was  not  observed  by  either  Cook  or  Beech ey. 
There  is  a  peak  on  the  northeast  extreme  of  Ouganok. 

Tigalga,  or  Kigalga,  or  Tigalda,  is  the  next  to  the  southwest,  and  is 
about  four  leagues  long  east  and  west.  Its  center  is  in  latitude  54°  5' 
north,  and  longitude  105°  0'  west.  A  small  island,  connected  by  a  chain 
of  rocks  to  Tigalda,  lies  off  its  northern  extremity. 

Tigalda  is  mountainous,  and  intersected  by  tliree  isthmuses.  Sea- 
lions  and  sea-calves  frequent  the  island,  and  a  large  quantity  of  birds' 
eggs  are  collected.  The  sea  throws  a  great  quantity  of  drift-wood  on 
its  coast,  and  coal  is  found  on  the  shore  of  Derbinskoi  Strait.  There  is 
one  village  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  island. 

Derbinskoi  Strait  separates  it  from  Abatanok,  and  is  remarkable 
among  all  the  others  for  the  extraordinary  rapidity  of  the  current  and 
its  strong  tide  races. 

Abatanok  lies  west  of  Tigalda,  and  is  about  the  same  size,  and  lies 
in  the  same  direction.  At  two  miles  west  of  the  western  i)oint  of  Aba- 
tanok is  the  small  island  of  Aektock  or  Goly,  (bare,)  which  is  about  a 
league  in  circumference,  and  lies  two  miles  south  of  the  south  point  of 
Akoun.  Beside  these  five  islands  thus  described  by  Kotzebue,  there  is 
a  sixth,  mentioned  by  Soloviett',  called  Nangarnan,  which  ought  to  lie  to 
the  southeast  of  Tigalda,  but  is  not  so  placed  on  Kotzebue's  chart; 
therefore  it  must  be  presumed  that  he  did  not  see  it,  and  it  must  be 
sought  for  eisewhere. 

The  Island  of  Akoun  forms  he  southwest  portion  of  Burick  Strait, 
and  lies  to  the  west  of  the  Krenitzin  Islands.  It  is  about  fourteen  miles 
long,  in  a  northeast  and  southwest  direction ;  its  breadth  is  unequal. 
There  are  two  small  bays  on  it,  one  in  tlie  northeast  part,  the  other  in 
the  northwest  part  of  the  island. 

The  island  is  mountainous,  and  i)articularly  cliffy  on  its  northeast  and 
north  sides.  On  the  south  side  of  the  island  is  a  sort  of  column,  which, 
seen  from  the  east  or  west,  resembles  a  tower,  or  stce[)le  suriounded  by 
houses.  On  its  northwest  side  is  a  smoking  volcano,  and  near  the  \il- 
lage  on  the  side  of  Akounskoi  Strait  are  some  hot  springs.  There  are 
only  three  villages  in  the  island,  and  the  Ilussiau  com])any  have 
attempted  to  raise  cattle  on  it. 

Akounskoi  Strait,  separating  Akoun  from  Akoutan,  is  not  more  than 
two  miles  wide,  is  throughout  bestrewed  with  rocks,  and  subject  to 
strong  currents  and  tide  races.t 


*  Journal  do  St.  Petorsbourg,  1782. 
tLUtke,  p.  290. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


105 


rait, 
miles 
qual. 
(>r  in 

it  and 
liich, 
tid  by 
le  \il- 
e  are 
have 


Akoutan  lies  half  a  league  to  the  west  of  Akoun.  Kotzebue  seut 
Lieutenaitt  Chramtschenko  around  it  in  baidarK,  and  we  therefore  pos- 
sess a  tolerable  knowledge  of  its  coasts.  It  is  large,  mountainous,  of  a 
round  form,  and  having  a  diameter  of  twelve  or  thirteen  miles.  It  has 
no  good  harbor;  there  are  some  coves  on  the  northern  coast,  but  they 
cannot  be  serviceable  to  any  but  very  small  vessels. 

With  the  exception  of  Ounalashka,  it  is  higher  than  the  neighboring 
islands.  Nearly  in  its  center  is  an  active  volcano,  measured  by  Captain 
Liitke  as  three  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet.  The  coasts 
are  steep,  particularly  on  the  south  side ;  ou  the  north  they  slope  more 
gradually  and  evenly.  Volcanic  evidences  are  everywhere  abundant. 
Between  its  southwest  end  and  the  opposite  shore  of  Ounalashka  is  the 
island  of  Ounalga,  the  same  which  Cook  calls  Oonella.  It  is  i!nmedi- 
ately  before  the  Bay  of  Samganooda,  two  miles  from  the  northeast  point 
of  Ounalashka. 

The  IslajNd  of  Ounalashka,  which  is  the  largest  and  the  best  known 
of  the  Aleutian  Archipelago,  follows.  It  extends  seventy  miles  from 
northeast  to  southwest.  The  southwest  extreme  is  in  latitude  53°  13', 
and  longitude  107°  4:7'  west;  and  the  northeast  i)art  in  latitude  o^o  1' 
north,  and  longitude  100°  22'  west. 

The  name  here  given,  as  generally  known  to  Europeans,  is  a  contrac- 
tion of  Nagounalaska,  the  correct  name.  It  is  the  most  important  of  the 
group,  because  it  is  the  residence  of  the  chief  of  the  section  of  the 
Kussian  company's  hunting  operations.* 

There  are  many  deep  bays  on  the  coasts  of  Ounalashka,  which  ha^^e 
nearly  all  been  examined  and  surveyed  by  our  navigators.  The  noith- 
eru  shore  has  the  greatest  number,  as  for  example:  Cai)tain's  Bay,  the 
Bay  of  Otters,  lUuluck  Bay,  Kaleghta  Bay,  and  Samganooda  Bay,  vis- 
ited by  Cook. 

Captain's  Bay  was  so  named,  because  Captain  Levacheff  was  obliged 
to  winter  here  in  1708-'09.  There  is  a  plan  of  this  bay,  ou  a  large  scale, 
in  the  atlas  accompanying  Kotzebue's  voyage.  It  is  formed  by  Capes 
Kaleghta  and  WessiloHi'sky,  which  lie  in  an  east-northeast  and  west- 
southwest  direction,  niue  miles  from  each  other,  and  is  about  thirteen 
miles  to  its  southern  part.  The  upper  part  of  the  bay  contains  three 
distinct  smallei  bays,  the. eastern,  northern,  and  western  bays.  Captain 
Levachelf  wintered  in  the  southern,  to  which  Krnsenstern  has  given  his 
name,  the  better  to  distinguish  it.  It  has  not  much  to  recommend  it; 
its  entrance,  scarcely  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  is  formed  on 
tlie  west  by  a  projecting  point  of  the  coast,  and  to  the  east  hy  the 
southei'n  point  of  the  Island  of  Oun)a(!knagh.  A  small  island,  a  mile 
in  length,  named  Ouknadagh,  lies  to  the  north  of  the  entrance  of  Port 
Levachelf. 

The  eastern  bay  bears  the  name  of  Port  Ilioluk,  from  the  village  of 
that  name,  where  the  company  has  an  establishmoit.    Admiral  Sary- 


*  Ibid.,  p.  280. 


If 


\ 


106 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


I  \V 


tscheff  aiJ  Captain  Kotzebiie,  who  visited  it,  have  given  a  detailed 
description  of  it.  The  latter  says  that  it  would  be  the  best  harbor  in  the 
universe  if  the  entrance  to  it  was  not  so  difficult;  but  the  great  depth  of 
water  in  the  outer  or  Captain's  Bay  presents  great  difficulties  for  a  ves" 
sel  entering  Port  Ilioluk;  if  it  should  fall  calm,  she  would  remain  exposed 
to  the  violent  currents  which  often  occur  here.  Oumacknagh  Island 
forms  the  western  side  of  the  port,  which,  like  the  island  itself,  has  a 
northeast  and  southwest  direction;  its  depth  is  three  and  three-quarter 
miles,  audits  opening  formed  by  the  northern  part  of  Oumacknagh,  and 
the  coast  opposite  is  two  miles  wide.  It  lies  seven  miles  south  from  Cape 
Kaleghta,  and  comuumicates  with  Port  Levacheff  by  a  narrow  channel 
one  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  The  soundings  in  the  center  of  Port 
Ilioluk  are  from  seven  to  fourteen  fathoms. 

The  mean  of  the  observations  made  by  Kotzebue  places  the  port  in 
latitude  530  52'  25"  north,  and  longitude  IGOo  32'  0"  west.  Variation  of 
the  compass,  10°  24'  east.  The  establishment  of  the  port,  7^  30':  the 
highest  tide  observed,  seven  feet  six  inches. 

Kaleghta  Bay,  which  lies  next,  to  the  eastward  of  Ilioluk,  is  open  and 
deep,  and  only  merits  attention  on  account  of  a  village  of  the  same  name 
at  its  head,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river  flowing  from  a  lake,  in  which 
is  an  abundance  of  lish  of  a  species  of  salmon. 

The  Bay  of  Otters,  or  Bobrovaia,  adjoins  Kaleghta  Bay  on  the  east,  and 
is  the  largest  of  those  which  intersect  Ounalashka,  being  eighteen  miles 
deep  in  a  northeast  and  southwest  direction.  Its  breadth,  as  well  at 
the  mouth  as  the  rest  of  the  bay,  excepting  the  north  part,  is  about  four 
miles.  It  was  miiuitely  examined  by  Admiral  Sarytscheff  in  baidars. 
Both  shores  of  the  bay  present  a  large  number  of  small  coves,  of  two  or 
three  mik^s  deep,  which  contain  good  anchorages;  the  rivulets  which  fall 
from  the  mountains  afford  good  water.  The  v^estern  part  of  the  Bay  of 
Otters  is  formed  by  a  peninsula,  which  is  the  same  land  which  forms  the 
uastern  side  of  Captain's  Bay.  At  the  extremity  of  this  peninsula  is 
Samganooda  Bay,  where  Cook  anchored  twice.  Cook  found  the  varia- 
tion to  be  19°  59'  15"  east,  or  half  a  degree  more  than  Kotzebue  found  it 
forty  years  later.  It  is  high  water,  full  and  change,  at  G''  30',  rise  aiul 
fall,  three  and  one-half  and  four  feet. 

Judging  from  the  description  given  by  Cook,  rhis  port  is  preferable  to 
Port  Ilioluk.  It  is  four  miles  long  in  a  south  one-half  west  direction,  and 
aflbrds  safe  anchorage  throughout  its  extent;  the  mouth  of  the  bay  is  a 
mile  in  width,  and  it  narrows  toward  the  bottom  to  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
where  you  may  anchor  in  from  four  to  seven  fathoms,  on  a  bottom  of 
sand  and  mud,  being  entirely  land-locked.  This  port  has  also  the  advan- 
tage of  being  nearer  the  open  ocean,  and  has  not  therefore  the  inconven- 
ience complained  of  by  Captain  Kotzebue  when  speaking  of  Ilioluk,  as 
mentioned  before.  The  principal  merit  of  this  bay  consists  in  the  fact 
that  here  there  is  an  establishment  of  the  llussian  American  Company. 

The  bay  which  Cook  afterwards  entered,  but  which  he  was  obliged  to 


ALxiSKA   DIRECTORY. 


107 


iiid  it 
and 

)leto 
,aud 
yisa 
mile, 
^lu  of 
dvaii- 
iiven- 
ik,  aa 
fact 
pany. 
;ed  to 


quit  directly,  on  account  of  tlie  great  depth  of  water,  is  called  Kaleglita, 
and  lies  some  miles  to  the  west  of  Samganoudo.    It  is  mentioned  above. 

The  island  of  Ounalga  (Cook's  Oonella)  lies  before  Samganoudo  Bay, 
as  mentioned  before.  Between  it  and  the  island  of  Akoutan,  to  the 
northeast  of  it,  is  Akoutan  Pass.  Captain  Wrangel  recommends  this 
pass  to  be  preferred  for  passing  between  tlie  islands,  because  it  lends 
directly  to  all  the  ports  lying  on  the  northeast  side  of  Onnahushka.  This 
strait  is  two  and  a  half  miles  broad,  but  is  somewhat  nairowed  by  a 
chain  of  islets  lying  half  a  mile  off  tlie  northeast  part  of  Ounalga.  These 
islets  are  called,  in  Captain  Liitke's  Memoir,  Egg  Islets. 

Spirkin  Island,  which  forms  the  eastern  point  of  the  Bay  of  Otters,  is 
ten  miles  long  in  a  north  one-quarter  east  and  south  one-quarter  west 
direction.  The  Oudagagh  Channel,  which  separates  it  from  Ounalashka, 
is  about  a  mile  wide  and  three  andone-quarter  miles  long,  in  a  north  by 
west  one-half  west  direction.     The  depth  in  it  is  forty-five  fathoms. 

At  the  northeast  end  of  Spirkin  Island  lies  the  small  isle  Ougalgan, 
being  separated  by  a  (;lear  channel  about  a  mile  long.  It  was  traversed 
by  Cook,  Sarytscheff,  and  Kotzebue. 

There  are  two  rocks  near  the  eastern  coast  of  Spirkin  Island,  between 
which  Cook  passed  in  the  night  of  June  20,  1778.  According  to  Cook 
the  first  rock  lies  four  miles  south  one-(piarter  east  from  Ougalgan  Isle ; 
the  other  at  five  miles  directly  to  the  south  of  this  isle;  their  distance 
apart  is  one  aiul  a  half  league,  and  the  relative  bearing  northeast  and 
southwest.  * 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  eastern  shores  of  Ounalashka  have  remained 
unexplored,  with  the  exception  of  the  small  Bay  of  Kuoliliak,  Avhich  was 
examined  by  Admiral  Sarytscheff,  and  of  Avhich  he  has  given  a  plan  in 
the  account  of  this  voyage.  It  is  easily  Icnown  by  a  remarkable  cape, 
named  Amtschitka.,  standing  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  entrance  to  the 
bay.  Besides  this  there  is  another  mark  which  will  point  out  the  situa- 
tion of  the  bay  in  approaching  the  land  on  its  parallel.  Ounalashka 
here  presents  the  appearance  of  being  divided  into  two  parts.  The  Bay 
of  Kuoliliak  is  perfectly  sheltered  from  all  winds.  Its  mouth  is  luilf  a 
league  wide;  further  inside  it  narrows  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
The  depth  is  about  ten  fathoms.  Admiral  Sarytscheff  is  the  only  navi 
gator  who  has  visited  it. 

The  western  side  of  Ounalashka  has  been  examined  in  detail  as  well 
by  Admiral  Sarytscheff  as  by  Kotzebue,  in  baidarj;  we  are  therefore 
intimate  with  all  the  indentations,  which  are  here  in  great  number  on 
the  coast. 

Makou(!hinskoy  Bay  lies  about  the  middle  of  the  island.  It  is  two  and 
three-quarter  miles  wide  at  its  opening,  and  eleven  or  tAvelve  miles  long 
in  an  easteily  direction.  In  it  there  are  many  coves,  which  may  prove 
to  be  good  anchorages.  The  head  of  this  bay  approaches  that  of  the 
Bay  of  Otters  within  three  miles,  and  within  seven  miles  of  Captain's 


•  Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol.  ii,  p.  240. 


r 


!P»Uyi^fl5l^^9pp^^,<J"PH!JLi!J>i|M,«'l»ijaiuMJ'"i<M,'Tf,'i    ii  ■. ^■F^'V^l.*T^,J<^ff,•J|^■.■w'?;^'  i*>«t'»i'«»i«*-- 


i 


108 


ALASKA   DIEECTORY. 


fi 


I.  hi 


■»  gl 


Bay,  in  such  a  manner  that  this  portion  of  Ounalashka  forms  a  peninsula 
of  forty  miles  in  circumference,  composed  of  high  mountains,  among 
which  a  very  high  volcano  is  to  be  distinguished.  There  are  still  several 
bays  on  the  western  shore,  which  we  have  not  mentioned,  tliat  are  given 
in  the  charts  of  Admiral  Sarytscheff'  and  Captain  Kotzebue. 

OuMNAK  Island  lies  next  west  to  Ounalashka,  and  next  to  that 
island  is  the  largest  of  the  archipelago.  The  strait  which  separates 
them  is  four  miles  wide  in  its  southern  part;  but  this  is  diminished  to 
one-half  by  Tinginack  Island,  which  lies  in  midchannel;  this  rendei's 
the  passage  difficult  for  large  vessels.  Outside  the  strait,  at  five  miles 
to  tbe  south  of  Tinginack,  is  a  reef,  which  covers  at  high  water.  This 
was  first  shown  on  Kotzebue's  chart,  and  must  increase  the  danger  of 
this  navigation. 

Oumnak  is  nearly  twenty  leagues  in  length,  in  a  southwest  by  south  and 
northeast  by  north  directior  Its  height  increases  in  the  same  direction ; 
and  its  north  end  is  composed  of  very  high  mountains,  fimong  which 
may  be  distinguished  a  verj\high  volcano,  covered  with  eternal  snow. 
Cook  saw  this  island  October  29,  1778,  some  days  after  quitting  Ouna- 
lashka, and  calls  it  Amoughta. 

Upon  the  island  are  two  active  volcanoes :  the  first,  Vcevidovskoi,  is 
nearly  in  the  center  of  the  island,  and  is  its  highest  point ;  the  other,  Tou- 
likskoi,  is  ten  miles  from  the  northeast  side.  The  southwest  extremity 
of  the  island.  Cape  Sigak,  lies,  according  to  Captain  Kotzebue's  chart, 
in  latitude  52°  50',  and  longitude  168°  42'.  A  short  distance  from  this 
the  southeast  coast  forms  some  small  open  bays,  one  of  which  is  called 
the  Old  Port,  which  is  somewhat  sheltered  from  the  south  from  seaward 
by  a  bank.  IJeyond  this  is  the  Black  Cape,  projecting  considerably  into 
the  sea,  and  forming  the  open  cove  called  Drovianaia  (wood,)  on  account 
of  the  great  quantity  of  drift-wood  thrown  on  to  it.  Beyond  this  the 
coast  ru7is  nearly  straight,  and  not  very  high,  to  Vcevidovskaia  Cove, 
open  to  the  south,  before  which  lie  the  Vcevidovskaia  Islands,  mentioned 
presently.  Here  the  coast  is  low  and  sloping,  and  thus  extends  to 
Gloubokaia  (deep)  Cove,  into  which  a  river  discharges  itself,  abounding 
with  fish.  Further  to  the  northeast,  beyond  a  mass  of  rocks  ninety  feet 
in  height,  inclining  to  the  northeast,  is  the  village  Egorkovskoi,  in  a 
small  creek  midway  between  Cape  Sigak  and  Oumnak  Strait.  The  neigh- 
borhood of  the  village  affords  great  resources  ;  the  grass  fi(mrishes,  and 
potatoes  and  turnips  are  cultivated.  A  rude,  sandy,  and  straight  coast 
surrounds  this  as  far  as  the  village  Toulikskoi,  lying  in  front  of  the  islet 
Tanghinakh,  in  the  Strait  of  Oumnak.  Near  the  southeast  coast  there 
are  many  reefs  and  banks. 

The  eastern  face  of  the  island  facing  Ounalashka  is  steep  and  rocky 
in  some  places,  but  is  not  high.  The  north  i)art  is  high,  sandy,  and  even, 
frequently  intersected  with  ravines,  but  without  a  single  remarkable 
inlet.  The  west  coast  is  mountainous,  but  not  steep.  On  this  side,  at 
eight  miles  from  the  southwest  extremity,  is  the  hirgest  village  of  the 


II 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


109 


rocky 
Jeven, 
[kablo 
Ide,  at 
l)f  the 


island,  Eet<'-hechnoi,  standing  on  a  small  bill  between  some  lakes  inland 
and  the  sea-sbore.  Before  it  is  a  small  and  safe  harbor  for  small  vessels. 
On  each  side  of  the  narrow  entrance  is  a  rocky  islet,  one  of  which  is 
called  Anangouliak.    Fish  is  abundant  here. 

Nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  west  side  of  the  island  is  the  large  but 
open  bay  called  lugakoadak. 

On  the  southeast  sicfe  of  the  island,  and  in  front  of  the  Vcevidovskoi 
volcano  and  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  are  situated  the  small  islands 
called  also  Vcevidovskies.  They  are  six  in  number,  and  are  two  miles 
off  the  coast,  the  interval  being  full  of  banks.  On  Kotzebue's  chart 
there  are  but  two,  the  largest  named  Ouegakh. 

Oumnak,  like  the  rest  of  the  islands,  is  deficient  of  w^ood,  some  willow 
and  other  bushes  only  growing  on  it.  It  is,  next  to  Ounimak,  the  most 
subject  to  volcanic  eruptions.  One  feature  is  an  evidence  of  this ;  it  is 
the  abundance  of  hot  springs,  one  of  which  resembles  the  Geysers  of  Ice- 
land. Captain  Liitke  gives  an  account  of  many  of  these  phenomena, 
and  similar  may  be  found  in  Kotzebue's  and  in  Langsdortf's  travels.* 

To  the  northward  of  Oumnak  is  a  long  reel  stretching  for  twenty-six 
miles  in  a  nearly  north  (true)  direction,  at  the  outer  point  of  which  is  the 
Ship  Kock.    It  was  so  named  by  Cook,  and  is  in  the  form  of  a  tower. 

At  two  hundred  fathoms  within  the  Ship  Rock  is  the  small  island  of 
Joann  Bogoslov.  It  is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  did  not  appear  until  179G, 
after  an  earthquake.  The  length  of  this  small  island,  from  northwest  by 
north  to  southeast  by  south,  is  one  and  three-quarters  mile.  Its  breadth 
is  about  half  its  length.  A  chain  of  rocks  i)rojects  two  miles  beyond 
its  northwest  extremity,  and  another  a  mile  from  its  northeast  point. 
According  to  the  observations  of  Cai>tain  Wassilieft",  the  peak  in  the 
center  of  the  island  is  2,240  feet  high.t  Tbi^  island,  as  before  stated,  is 
connected  with  Oumnak  by  a  reef  of  rocks,  which  doubtless  owe  their 
origin  to  a  similar  cause;  for  in  l'^78  Cook,  and  thirty  years  later  Saryt- 
scbeff,  sailed        veen  the  Ship  Rock  and  the  Island  of  Oumnak. 

I,  'Liitke,  Voyage,  &c.,  Port.  Naut.,  pp,  298-302. 

t  Admiral  Kiuseiistern  adds  the  account  of  this  phenomenon  from  a  report,  dated  June 
10,  1817,  from  Mr.  Barai'off,  chief  of  the  American  company's  estahlishment :  "  In  18(t6, 
a  new  v(dcano  appeared  on  one  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  on  May  1,  in  thdt  year,  a 
violent  tempest  from  the  north  occurred,  and  during  its  force  a  rumhling  noise,  and 
distant  explosions,  similar  to  thunder  claps,  were  heard  at  Ounala«hka.  At  the  com- 
niencemiMit  of  the  third  day  the  tempest  ahated,  and  the  sky  became  clear.  They  then 
observed,  between  Oinialashka  and  Oumnak,  to  the  north  of  the  latter,  a  flame  jotting 
out  of  the  sea,  and  soon  after,  smoke,  which  continued  for  ten  consecutive  days.  After 
this  a  white  body  of  a  round  fom)  was  observed  to  rise  out  of  the  water,  and  incresise 
rapidly  in  size.  At  the  ctuI  of  a  month  the  flame  ceased,  but  the  smoke  increased  con- 
siderably, and  the  island  kept  on  increasing.  On  June  1,  I8I4,  they  sent  a  baidar  to 
examine  it,  but  they  could  scarcely  laud,  on  account  of  the  violent  currents  and  the 
pointed  rocks.  The  island  was  formed  by  precipices,  covered  with  small  stones,  which 
were  being  contlnnally  ejected  from  the  crater.  In  1815,  a  second  expedition  found  the 
island  very  much  lower  than  in  the  previous  year,  and  its  appearance  entirely  changed. 
The  precipices  had  fallen,  and  were  continually  crumbling  away." 


73i™''*WT''v;r-'?r'"*'^f9rrjT7y»^ 


110 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


To  the  wei«t\v  rd  of  this  island  is  a  group  of  four  volcanic  islands,  which 
bear  the  nauu^.  of  the  Isles  of  the  Four  Mountains ;  they  are  all  very 
near  to  each  other.  Kotzebue  saw  but  three.  They  are  named  Uliaga, 
Kigalgin,  Kagauiil,  and  Tchuginadak.  The  largest  of  theui  are  live  or 
six  leagues  in  circumference. 

YoiiNASKA. — To  the  southwest  of  these  islands  is  Youiiaska,  which  is 
about  five  leagues  from  northeast  to  southwest.  •  According  to  Captain 
Kotzebue,  there  is  a  high  mountain  in  the  center  of  the  island.  Tche- 
goula,  or  Tchougoul,  a  small  island,  lies  west  of  Younaska,  and  near  the 
northeast  point  of  Amoughta.  Kotzebue  says  it  is  of  a  circular  form, 
and  three  miles  in  diameter. 

It  seems  as  if  formed  of  fragments  of  rock  ready  to  tall  down,  and 
has  no  landing  place.  At  about  a  mile  from  it,  in  the  direction  of 
Amoughta,  is  a  small  isolated  rock. 

Amoughta,  or  Amoukiitou,  is  the  westernmost  of  the  chain  of  the 
Fox  Islands.  It  is  nearly  round,  and  about  six  miles  in  diameter.  Its 
center  is  mountainous,  and  its  summit  irregular.  The  coasts  are  low, 
but  steep.  A  short  distance  from  its  south  end  a  high  coluuni  of  rock 
rises  above  the  water.  There  is  neither  bay  nor  river  on  it,  and  although 
formerly  in  volcanic  activity,  its  fires  are  extinct. 

All  the  islands  of  the  Fox  chain,  to  the  west  of  Ounniak,  are  now 
uninhabited,  but  formerly  were  not  so.  They  are  all  now  more  or  less  fre- 
quented by  otters,  sea-horses,  seals,  and  birds.* 

The  channels  between  this  group  are  those  generally  used  by  ships 
either  going  or  returning  from  the  Sea  of  Behring.  The  Kussian  com- 
pany's vessels  generally  prefer  that  of  the  Strait  of  Ounimak,  but  Gap- 
tain  Wrangel  prefers  the  Strait  of  Akoutan,  between  that  island  and 
Akoun,  as  being  much  shorter.  In  returning  by  this  strait,  with  the 
prevalent  southwest  winds,  you  may  run  to  the  southeast  without  being 
crami)ed  by  the  coasts.  By  the  Ounimak  or  Iturick  Channel  the  length 
of  coast  is  much  greater,  and  it  is  also  embarrassed  by  the  dangerous 
Sannak  Island. 

Vessels  do  not  use  any  other  than  the  channels  here  mentioned.  The 
least  current  is  found  in  the  Ounimak  Pass,  where  it  does  not  exceed 
four  knots  an  hour.t 


1 1 


ANDR]fiANOWSKY  ISLANDS.f 

This  group  extends  from  Seguam  or  Sigouam  to  Goreloi,  or  the  "  Burned 
Island,"  as  Liitke  also  calls  the  first-named  islnid. 

There  is  a  larger  interval  between  the  foregoing  islands  and  the  next 
to  the  westward  than  between  themselves,  the  distau<!e  from  Amoughta 
and  Seguam  being  1°  9'  west  in  longitude.  This  distance  (fifty-five  miles) 
is  thought  by  Liitke  to  be  too  great.  From  the  imperfect  knowledge 
that  Admiral  Krusenstern  could  collect  concerning  them  this  may  be  true, 


*  LUtke,  p.  304.  t  Ibid.,  p.  306. 

t  Or  AuchiasowBky,  according  to  Liitke. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Ill 


The 
cceed 


liirned 

next 
[ughta 

liles) 
[-ledge 

s  true, 


but  as  no  data  were  given  for  correcting  it  they  have  been  left  by  him  as 
before. 

Seguam,  or  GouELOi,  according  to  the  promychlenniks  or  hunters,  is 
the  easternujost  of  the  group.  It  is  nearly  double  the  size  of  Anu)ughta. 
It  is  intersected  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  divided  into  three  masses, 
smoke  issuing  at  times  from  the  central  mass.  In  tlie  northeast  part 
they  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  water.  There  are  neither  rocks,  slioals, 
nor  dangers  around  it.  Birds  are  abumlant.  There  are  many  hot 
springs  and  vapor  apertures,  and  on  the  west  side  there  are  some  con- 
venient landing-places  for  baidars. 

The  Amoughta  Channel,  to  the  east  of  it,  is  clear,  safe,  and  has  the 
same  curren  ts  as  the  rest.  The  channel  to  the  west,  between  it  and  Ainlia, 
is  far  from  being  as  convenient.  From  the  extent  of  the  latter  island, 
and  also  that  of  Seguam,  a  barrier  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles  is  opposed 
to  the  periodic  current  passing  between  them,  and  conse(iuently  the 
water  rushes  violently  from  either  side  through  the  strait,  causing  terrible 
and  dangerons  races.* 

Amlia,  which  succeeds  Seguam  to  the  westward,  is  long  and  narrow, 
and  extends  nearly  east  and  west,  true.  Its  length,  according  to  Liitke, 
is  not  exactly  determined ;  from  the  charts  it  is  forty  miles.  The  center 
of  the  island  is  occupied  with  a  chain  of  mountains,  the  greater  part  of 
a  conical  form,  but,  compared  with  the  others,  of  a  moderate  height. 
There  is  no  active  volcano  on  it,  and  its  shores  are  in  general  clear.  The 
west  cape  projects  to  north-northwest,  and,  according  to  observation 
made  on  land,  is  in  latitude  52°  0^'.  On  the  south  coast,  about  a  mile 
from  the  west  end,  is  a  large  open  bay  aiid  an  Aleutian  village.  At  thi.^ 
part  the  island  is  not  more  than  a  verst  (two-thirds  of  an  English  mile) 
in  breadth,  but  it  is  broader  in  the  middle.  The  south  side  forms  several 
bays,  but  all  are  oi)en  save  one,  Svetchnikoft'  harbor,  described  by  the 
pilot  Tchernoff  in  1832.  According  to  the  Memoir  of  M.  Tebenkoft",  this 
port  is  sixteen  miles  from  the  east  extremity  of  the  island,  and  pene- 
trates one  and  a  half  mile  to  the  north-nortiiwest,  and  is  about  half 
a  mile  broad.  It  is  sheltered  from  seaward  by  a  small,  narrow  island, 
formed  of  rocks,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  north  and  south, 
half  a  mile  south  from  the  east  cape  of  the  port.  This  space  is  full  of 
rocks,  so  that,  to  enter,  this  island  must  be  rounded  to  west.  Inside  there 
ai'e  fourteen  fathoms  water,  and  further  inside,  six  to  four  and  a  half 
fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  A  high  rock,  lying  south  82°  east,  at  nine  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  entrance,  and  two  and  a  quarter  miles  from  the 
nearest  coast,  will  point  out  .he  situation  of  this  harbor.t 

The  greater  part  of  Amlia  is  covered  with  high  grass,  among  which 
are  found  some  edible  roots ;  some  potatoes,  «&c.,  are  also  raised. 

At  Ave  miles  north-northeast  from  the  east  point  of  Andia,  M.  Klot- 
schkoff,  an  officer  of  the  Kussian  marine,  commanding  a  small  vessel,  the 
TschirikofiF,  for  the  American  company,  discoveiod  a  high  rock  of  twenty 


LUtke,  pp.  307,  308. 


tLUtke,  pp.  308,  309. 


"TFPTTPItfTTfjr' 


112 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


Hi 


fathoms  in  diameter,  on  which  he  found  an  immense  number  of  sea- 
calvea.  This  rock  was  named  by  Krusenstern  after  its  discoverer.  But 
in  Liitke's  Memoir,  p.  308,  quoting  M.  Inghestrom,  it  states  that  this 
rock  does  not  exist  in  that  position.  It  must  therefore  be  souglit  else- 
where. Nevertheless,  until  it  is  refound.  Admiral  F'Hisenstern  retains 
the  position  assigned  by  M.  Klotschkott'.* 

Tho  strait  between  Amlia  inid  Atkha  is  not  more  than  one  and  one- 
quartermile  broad,  and  is  still  further  narrowed  by  some  rocks,  and  cannot 
be  passed  by  a  sailing  vessel  on  account  of  the  furious  currents. 

Atkha,  or  Atcha,  is  the  largest  and  principal  island  of  this  group. 
Admiral  Sarytscheff  passed  along  its  south  coast,  and  Captain  Golownin 
on  the  northern,  t 

The  length  of  the  island,  from  the  southwest  extremity  to  the  furthest 
jioint  to  the  northeast,  is  more  than  fifty  nautical  miles.  And  here  we 
find  the  same  feature  so  general  in  the  eastern  group  of  a  narrow  and 
low  southwest  extremity,  enlarging  and  increasing  in  height  to  the  north- 
east. Like  the  peninaulti  of  Makouchin,  on  Ouiuilashka,  the  north  part 
of  Atkha  also  forms  a  peninsula,  crowned  with  high  mountains,  the 
northernmost  of  which  is  the  active  and  smoking  volcano  called  Kor- 
ovinskoi,  lying  on  the  north  coast,  and  four  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
fifty-two  English  feet  in  height.  Seen  from  the  northeast  it  presents 
two  summits,  .and  on  the  north  is  very  steep,  and  the  shore  inaccessible. 
Four  miles  to  the  south  rises  the  volcano  of  Klutchevskoi,  and  not  far 
from  the  northeast  extremity  is  another.  The  base  of  the  Korovinskoi 
volcano  advances  to  the  north  into  the  sea,  forming  a  rocky  escarp- 
ment, which  is  the  north  extremity  of  the  island.  To  the  east  of  this  cape 
the  coast  trends  to  the  southeast.  On  the  other  side  it  runs  nearly  on 
the  parallel  without  curvature  to  the  northwest  extremity,  called  Cape 
Severnoi,  and  forms  a  low,  even,  flat  point,  and  droi)ping  perpendicularly, 
which  M.  Inghestrom  compares  to  an  artificial  mole. 

Its  west  extremity.  Cape  Korovinskoi,  rises  out  of  the  sea  in  a  steep 
cliff,  with  many  slips.  From  most  of  the  headlands  here  rocks  extend  to 
four  cables'  length  off. 

Korovinskoi  Bay,  which  opens  to  the  west,  is  formed  by  the  large 
peninsula  of  Sarytscheff  and  the  connecting  isthmus,  which  is  called 
Amlinskoi,  because  it  faces  Amlia.  Two  coves  v/hich  penetrate  on  the 
north  side  of  this  bay,  and  are  covered  by  the  peninsula,  form  the 
harbor  of  Korovinskoi,  which  is  perfectly  sheltered,  and  oidy  has  the 
grave  objection  of  an  extremely  diflicult  entrance.  It  is  formed  by  two 
very  low  spits  of  gravel,  which  run  over  to  a  great  distance,  leaving  only 
a  very  tortuous  and  narrow  channel  between,  which  must  be  well  buoyed 
to  be  passed. 

The  inconvenience  of  the  place  would  not  allow  M.  Inghestrom  to 
make  regular  tidal  observations.    But  they  were  found  to  be  very  irreg- 


*  Krusenstern,  Memoire,  p.  85. 

t  Voyage  de  Captain  Golowuin,  tome  i,  p.  172,  orig. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


113 


steep 
imA  to 

large 
called 
on  tbe 
the 
as  the 
3y  two 
[g  only 
juoyed 

rom  to 
irreg- 


ular and  much  hitluenccd  by  the  wind.  It  is  high  water  on  full  and 
change  between  1  and  2  o'clock.  Tlui  range  of  the  tide  was  about  four 
feet;  in  spring  and  autumn  Ave  or  six  feet  at  most.  Sometimes  there 
was  but  one  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours. 

The  outer  bay  of  Korovinskoi  is  six  and  one-quarter  miles  broad  in  its 
opening  between  Cape  Korovinskoi  and  Cape  Jaichnoi,  bearing  south 
15°  east,  true,  from  it.  Tliere  is  an  only  anchorage  on  the  north  side,  in 
fourteen  fathoms,  before  the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  It  is  without  dan- 
ger in  the  flue  season,  but  in  autumn  terrible  gales  passing  from  north- 
west to  northeast  occur,  when  a  sliip»jOuld  not  remain  here;  and  at  such 
times  the  entrance  is  covered  with  breakers  for  several  weeks  together. 

There  are  two  coves  on  the  south  side  of  Korovinskoi  Bay  ;  the  near- 
est to  the  isthmus  is  Pechtchanaia  (Sandy)  Cove,  the  west  point  which 
bears  south  ()7°  east  by  (jompass  from  the  southwest  extremity  of  the 
Sarytschelf  Peninsuki.  This  cove,  in  which  tliere  is  very  little  water, 
and  is  open  to  the  north,  merits  no  attention  whatever  in  a  maritime 
view ;  but  on  its  east  side,  near  the  entrance,  lies  a  rock,  an  enormous 
mass  of  (fossil)  wood,  the  bark  and  branches  of  which  may  be  very  clearly 
distinguished.  This  wood  is  of  a  grayish  color,  and  does  not  burn  in  the 
fiie  like  coal;  it  consumes  slowly,  and  therefore  is  of  no  use ;  but  it  leads 
to  the  supposition  that  a  careful  sear<;h  would  lead  to  the  discovery  of 
true  coal,  which  would  be  of  very  great  importance. 

The  other  cove,  Saranaia,  is  to  the  southwest  of  the  former,  and  is  the 
only  place  where  a  ship  can  anchor  conveniently  and  also  may  procure 
water. 

At  six  miles  south,  o2^°  west  from  Cape  Jaichnoi,  two  or  three  miles 
off  shore,  is  the  solitary  Island  Solenoi  (salt:)  it  is  small  and  not  high, 
and  between  it  and  the  cape  is  the  long  Staritchkoff  reef.  Beyond  Cape 
Jaichnoi  the  north  coast  of  Atkha  curves  to  the  southwest,  and  forms 
several  bays ;  the  first  is  Jaichnoi  Bay,  lying  beyond  the  above  reef, 
and  connected  with  it  is  Obetavannaia  Bay.  They  are  both  open  and 
unimportant.  To  the  east  by  south  of  Solenoi  Island,  and  to  the  south 
of  a  cape  east  by  north  from  that  island,  is  the  deep  bay  of  Glouboukaia, 
which,  it  is  said,  affords  excellent  shelter.  To  the  southeast,  or  southeast 
one-quarter  south  from  Soleiioi  Island,  is  a  land-locked  bay,  in  which  are 
some  excellent  harbors.  Inside  it  separates  into  two,  one  named  Ban- 
nerskaia,  after  M.  Banner,  mentioned  by  Langsdorff,  and  the  other  like 
it  called  Pestsovaia. 

Cape  Tolstoi  projects  considerably  into  the  sea.  On  its  east  side  is  an 
open  bay ;  on  its  west  side  is  Kovurova  Bay,  extending  first  southeast 
and  then  east  by  south.  It  is  twenty-four  or  twenty-five  miles  from 
Korovinskoi  Harbor,  and,  in  fine  weather,  is  serviceable,  but  in  bad  or 
foggy  weather  its  entrance  is  difficult.  To  reach  this  bay,  M.  Inghe- 
strom  recommends  making  the  island  of  Koniouji,  ten  or  eleven  miles 
to  the  north  59°  west,  by  compass,  from  the  entrance,  and  then  bear 
away  for  it;  on  its  north  side  is  the  high  cape  Tolstoi,  and  on  the  south - 
8  AD 


# 


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114 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


west  side  is  a  conical  peak,  whlcli  riHcs  hi<;fli  and  isolated  near  the  coast; 
and  between  them,  at  some  miles  in  the  otting,  are  the  islets  which  shelter 
the  bay.  Tlien  steer  for  the  largest  of  them,  and  ronnd  it  (tarefnlly  by 
the  lead,  and,  when  once  it  is  donWed,  the  entrance  is  not  dillicult. 
Near  the  cape,  lying  near  the  conical  peak,  called  for  this  reason  Podao- 
pot*;hnoi,  (under  the  peak,)  is  a  sunken  rock,  which  only  breaks  at  times ; 
to  avoid  this,  pass  between  the  islands. 

From  this  last  cape  the  coast  trends  four  miles  to  the  west  to  Cape 
Betchevinskoi,  from  whi<!h  a  reef  extends  for  one  and  a  half  mile  to  the 
northwest;  and  in  this  direction,  at  eight  or  nine  miles  from  the  coast, 
is  the  small  island  Konionge  (Kaiiugy?  Krusenstern,)  which  is  an  enor- 
mous rock,  perpendicular  to  the  north,  and  a  low  point  to  the  southwest. 
Its  surface  is  constantly  (ihanging  from  vol(;anic  <'rtect8,  and  the  Aleutes 
say  that  it  regularly  and  slowly  keei)s  rising  out  of  the  water;  around 
and  on  it  is  an  innunu'rable  number  of  birds,  called  koniougi,  attracted, 
it  is  thought,  by  the  warmth  of  the  island  to  which  their  name  is  applied. 

Beyond  Cape  Betchevinskoi  the  coast  turns  to  the  south,  and  forms  a 
bay  which  penetrates  two  or  three  miles  inland,  the  bottom  being  sep- 
arated from  the  south  coast  of  Atkha  by  a  narrow,  marshy  isthmus,  not 
more  than  three  hundrcMl  yards  broad.  Tiie  bay  is  shallow.  Beyond 
this  the  «!oast  trends  two  miles  to  west  southwest,  not  far  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  then  turns  iigain  to  the  south,  forming  two  snuiU  bays.  Beyond 
this  again  the  coast  extends  north  to  northwest  by  west  anU  west,  and 
then  forms  an  obtuse  bluff  cape;  then  at  a  mile  further,  another  peaked 
cai)e;  after  which  the  island  narrows  so  as  to  be  not  more  than  one- 
third  of  a  mile  broad,  and  forms  a  low  sandy  isthmus.  To  the  south- 
west of  tliis  isthmus  a  mountain,  the  last  in  the  island,  forms  the  south- 
west extremity  of  Atkha.  This  southwest  extreme  is  thirty-seven  or 
thirty-eight  miles  from  the  village  in  a  direct  line,  and  about  eighteen 
miles  from  Cape  Tolstoi.     It  is  called  Cape  Kigune. 

The  south  coast  of  Atkha  was  not  visited  by  M.  Inghestrfun.  All  the 
information  is  therefore  derived  from  an  intelligent  Toyon,  (native  chief,) 
who  has  given  a  sketch  of  it,Avhich  accompanies  Captain  Liitk<>'s  Memoir. 
As  this  can  scarcely  be  of  service  in  a  nautical  view,  we  omit  the  short 
details  of  it. 

There  is  but  one  village  upon  Atkha,  called  Nikolskoi,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  inner  harbor  of  Korovinskoi.  It  consists  of  a  few  houses 
for  the  employes  of  the  Kussian  Company,  a  church,  &(y.  It  is  in  a  low 
and  damp  situation,  and  has  many  disadvantages.  One  gTeat  incon- 
venience of  Atkha  is  the  extreme  scarcity  of  provisions.  But  few  fish 
are  taken  on  the  coast  or  in  the  rivers.  Supplies  sire  brought  from  the 
Commander  Islands  to  the  west,  but  all  are  insufficient  to  avert  severe 
famine  in  the  winter. 

It  may  be  said  that  there  is  no  summer  in  Atkha ;  for  during  those 
months  fogs  and  rain  are  particularly  prevalent.  In  winter,  on  the  con- 
trary, the  weather  is  generally  clear.    The  island  has  abundant  evidence 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


115 


south 
)use8 

low 
Incon- 

fish 
h  the 
levere 

Ithose 
con- 
llence 


everywhere  of  its  volcanic!  lin^s.  Wo  linvo  boforo  sjiokcn  of  soido  of  the 
vok'aiioes.  Mineral  and  hot  .sprinys  arc  iicqucntly  met  with  ;  and  one 
remarkable  feature  is  very  comnion:  these  are  volcanic  Hjjiracles,  or 
blowlnfj-holcH,  emitting,  at  intervals,  burning  clay,  or  else  the  same  in  a 
state  of  fusion;  others  only  send  forth  hot  and  sulphuious  vajtors;  and 
these,  in  the  southwest  side,  forni  almost  the  entire  surface,  aiul  have 
considerable  ett'e(!t  on  the  climate. 

Kassatotchy  Island,  which  bears  north  54°  west,  nim^  or  ten  miles 
from  the  mountain  on  the  southwestextremity  of  Atkha,  is  one  of  these 
volcanoes.  It  is  a  mountain  rising  at  once  out  of  the  sea ;  the  crater  ou 
its  summit,  it  is  stated  by  the  inhabitants,  being  full  of  water. 

The  TriiASTiE  Islands,  a  group  of  small  but  high  islands  to  the  west 
of  Atkha,  are  thus  (;alled  (tchastie,  crowded)  from  their  arrangement; 
they  have  been  but  little  known  hitherto.  There  are  thirteen  of  ditferent 
sizes,  and  six  large,  isolated  rocks.  M.  Inghestrom  saw  them  several 
tinu^s,  and  sui)i)oses  that  the  danger  of  approaching  them,  from  the  ter- 
rible tide  races  and  currents  through  them,  and  the  want  of  shelter,  has 
prevented  any  knowledge  being  gained. 

The  island  nearest  to  Atkha  is  Ogmodak,  three  and  a  half  miles  dis- 
tant. It  is  high,  steep,  without  landing,  and  is  the  only  one  that  is  ten- 
anted, and  that  by  foxes.  A  little  to  the  west  of  this  is  the  high  islet  of 
Nerpitchy,  (sea-calf,)  and  to  the  northwest,  quite  close  also,  a  high  rock 
called  Sivontchy,  (sea-lion.)  Beyoiul  this,  in  the  direction  of  Adakh, 
is  a  range  of  rocks,  then  the  islaiul  of  Tagalak ;  after  this,  Tchigul,  or 
Tchougoulak,  which  is  some  miles  in  extent,  and  was  formerly  inhabited; 
beyond  this  is  an  isolated. rock;  and  lastly,  we  reach  three  cons])icuous 
islands  close  together,  of  which  the  last,  Kagalaska,  is  not  far  from  the 
coast  of  Adakh.  From  these  islands,  in  the  dii'ection  of  (ireat  Sitchiu, 
there  are  six  more  islets,  one  of  which  is  large,  the  rest  small. 

SiTciiiN  Island,  which,  to  distinguisli  it  from  another  of  the  same  name 
to  the  west,  is  sometimes  called  Great  Sitchin,  is  in  latitude  52°  4'  or  5', 
and,  according  to  the  observations  nuide  by  Captain  Stanikowitch,  in 
the  corvette  ]\Ioller,  in  longitude  17G°  2'  (center.)  It  is  about  twenty-five 
miles  in  circumference,  and  in  its  center  is  a  volcano  covered  with  per- 
petual snow,  which  was  ascertained  by  M.  Inghestrom  to  be  five  thou- 
sand and  thirty-three  English  feet  in  elevation. 

Adakhe  is  a  large  mountainous  island,  but  lower  than  Sitchin ;  it  is 
covered  with  perpetual  snow  in  some  parts.  Its  north  end  is  in  about 
latitude  52°  4'  G".  The  bay  on  the  north  side  is  open,  and  there  arQ 
others  on  the  northt'ast,  south,  and  west  sides;  that  to  the  south  ofl'ers 
the  best  shelter.  It  is  separated  by  a  small  itthmus  from  the  bay  on 
the  west  coast.  The  position  aud  details  of  the  island  are  very  imper- 
fect, as  are  also  those  of  the  next  island.* 

Kanaga,  or  KoNNiAGA,  is  the  island  next  west  to  Adakhe,  to  which  it 
is  similar  in  size,  being  seven  or  eight  leagues  in  length,  by  half  that 

*  Lutke,  pp.  320,  322. 


i; 


^flfw^'m^m^r^mjffffi^mfjp^ 


116 


ALASKA   DIRECTORV. 


k 


\: 


broniltli.  The  northern  part  of  tliis  i.shind  is  reniarkabUi  b^'  a  liifjfh 
smoking  volcano,  one  of  tlie  nu)at  lofty  in  tlui  chain;  the  rest  of  the 
island  is  not  very  high.  Near  to  itH  western  part  is  a  siiiull  island  bear- 
ing the  name  of  the  Isle  of  Otters;  these  islands,  howev(!r,  are  but 
incorrectly  delineated  and  placed  on  the  charts. 

Tana(JA  is  separated  from  Kanaga  by  a  chaniml  two  leagues  broad, 
extending  eight  leagues  in  a  niutheast  direction.  Aciiording  to  the 
observations  of  Admiral  Siirytschetf,  in  17!)1,  this  land  is  about'eleven 
leagues  in  extent,  from  east  to  west,  and  four  in  breadth.  It  is  easily 
distingtiished  by  an  elevated  volcano,  which  stands  at  its  southwest 
point.  Near  the  point  is  a  bay,  which  Sarytscheft"  visited,  and  nuide  a 
plan  of  in  his  voyage.  The  entrance  of  this  bay  may  be  about  four 
miles  broad,  and  is  about  eight  miles  deep.  At  this  distance,  in  the 
north  part  of  the  bay,  the  vessel  iu  which  he  penetrated  anchored  on  a 
bottom  of  fine  black  sand,  in  front  of  the  entrance  of  two  rivers,  whose 
sources  were  in  the  mountains,  and  here  entered  the  bay.  Watering  is 
very  easily  jterformed  in  this  bay,  the  boats  ascending  the  rivers  without 
any  obstacles. 

At  six  leagues  to  the  west  of  Tanaga  is  Goreloi,  or  Burned  Island.  It 
has  a  very  high  volcano,  whose  summit  is  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
From  this  volcano  it  derives  its  name,  Goreli,  or  Goidoi.  Sarytscheff 
gives  it  a  circumference  of  six  leagues ;  and  M.  Inghestrom  considers 
this  volcano,  and  those  on  Kanaga  and  Tanaga,  as  the  highest  in  the 
Aleutian  chain. 

South  of  this  fire  two  small  islands,  with  those  south  of  it  forming 
the  westarnmost  of  the  gioup  of  the  Andreanowsky  islands.  They  are 
mentioned  by  Sarytschett'  as  being  sixteen  miles  southwest  of  the  south- 
west point  of  Tanaga.  He  found  the  passage  between  (juite  clear.  As 
they  had  no  name,  Krusenstern  gave  them  the  name  of  JJelarott",  one  of 
the  first  founders  of  the  Kussian-Ameriean  Company. 

Their  names  as  given  in  the  chart  of  the  United  States  Surveying 
Expedition  of  1855  are :  Unalga,  Ogliouga,  Skagule,  Kavalga,  Joulakh, 
Tanadakh,  Tidgatukh,  Illakh,  and  Amatignake,  which  last  is  the  most 
southern  one,  and  the  highest,  being  about  one  thousand  nine  hundred 
and  twenty-  one  feet  high. 


KRYSI  OR  RAT  ISLANDS. 


The  islands  next  west  of  the  foregoing  are  included  by  Liitke  and 
others  under  the  above  denomination. '  Krusenstern  says  that  it  is  more 
properly  confined  to  a  small  island  west  of  Amtschitka. 

Semisopochnoi. — At  sixteen  or  seventeen  leagues  west  of  Goreloi  or 
Burned  Island  is  the  Isle  of  the  Seven  Mountains.  The  name  (Semiso- 
pochnoi) is  significant  of  its  character.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  and  is 
ten  leagues  in  circumference. 

According  to  the  observations  of  M.  Inghestrom  its  latitude  is  51°  59', 


mi 
(Ut 
it. 
tin 

foil 


ALASKA    DIkKCTORY. 


117 


aiul 
I  more 

lloi  or 
Imiso- 
kd  is 

lo  59', 


and  its  lonffitndo  170°  40'  east,  -ih  ascertained  in  tho  corvotto  Moller.  Its 
ponition  is  the  best  fixed  of  all  tlie  ini^lil>orinj»-  islands.  The  niountaina 
do  not  ext'ced  three  thonsand  feet  in  heijjlit,  and  in  summer  the  snow 
lies  on  it  in  bands.  One  of  the  mountains  in  the  northern  part  sends 
forth  smoke.  T\w  north  and  east  sides  have  a  wihl  and  desolate  aspect ; 
on  the  south  and  west  there  are  several  {jfreen  spots.  The  shores  are  in 
general  clear. 

The  strait  between  SeinisojuK'hnoi  and  Ooreloi  is  the  ))est  for  crossing 
the  Aleutian  chain.  It  is  safe  throughout,  is  not  less  than  forty-tlvo 
miles  Itroad,  and  is  not  subject  to  tide  iac»'s.* 

Amtciiitka  is  a  large  island ;  it  is  not  very  hilly,  and  extends  about 
eleven  leagues  north  72°  west,  and  south  72°  east.  Near  its  west  point 
are  two  small  islands,  the  larger  of  which  is  called  Rat  Island,  a  name, 
as  above  mentione<l,  whidi  has  been  extended  to  the  whole  grouj). 
IJehring  saw  this  island  on  October  iiath,  and  gav(^  it  tlu>  name  Of  St. 
Marcian  (Markiana.)  II(r  says  it  was  moderately  high,  and  covered  with 
snow.  Although  liis  latitudes  are  erroneous,  yet  it  must  be  considered 
that  this  island  is  intended,  and  not  Amatignac,  as  has  been  supposed. 

The  islaial  is  about  thirtyttve  miles  in  length,  east-southeast  one-half 
east,  and  w  st-northwest  one-half  west,  by  comi)ass.  It  is  low,  and  is 
not  more  than  four  miles  wide  at  the  southeast  part,  but  is  broaden"  and 
higlier  in  th  nor'hweat.  Its  southeast  extremity  forms  a  peninsula,  on 
which  a  hillock  rises,  and  from  it  a  reef  extends  for  two  miles.  The 
south  coast  runs  nearly  in  a  straight  line,  without  any  bays  oi'  coves,  and 
in  general  witli  a  less  depth  than  the  north  side,  and  lined  with  a  larger 
nuuiber  of  rocks  and  reefs.  At  about  a  third  the  length  of  \\w  island  a 
chain  of  moderately  high  mountains  rises,  and  falls  again  toward  the 
northwest  extremity,  where  it  tVnins  a  low  but  steep  cai>e,  called  by  the 
Aleutes  Satanna,  or  Bird's  Cape. 

On  the  nortli  side  of  the  island,  at  ten  miles  from  its  east  end,  is  Kiri- 
lovskaia  Bay,  the  only  pla(;e  in  the  island  where  you  can  stay  at  anchor. 
This  anchorage  is  somev, hat  sheltered  from  seaward  by  a  rci^f  oft'  its 
middle,  which  reejuires  caution  in  entering;  there  are  .also  some  reefs  on 
either  side  of  it.  It  is  dangerous  to  remain  here  in  autumn  or  winter, 
when  the  northerly  gales  are  prevalent.  The  latituile  of  the  bay  is  51° 
27'  1",  longitude  170°  20'  east.  Magnetic  variation,  14°  5'  east  in  1H3(). 
And  high  water  occurs  about  10  o'clock  at  full  and  change. 

The  inhabitants  say  that  there  is  no  other  bay  than  this  hen^  described. 

Many  persons  here  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  bank  ten  or  llfteeu 
miles  to  the  south  of  Amtschitka,  but  M.  Inghestrom,  who  could  not 
discover  any  appearance  of  such  at  eight  miles  oft',  is  inclined  to  doubt 
it.  He  ecpially  disbelieves  in  the  existence  of  some  land  said  to  be  in 
the  same  direction,  in  about  latitude  50^°. 

To  the  northwest  of  Amtsciiitka  are  the  Tschegoula  Isles,  a  group  of 
four  small  hilly  islands,  which  extend  about  six  leagues  east  and  west.   In 

*•  Liitke,  pp.  ;W5,  326.    This  terniiuateH  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Inghcstroin,  as  Itrrv  ^auted. 


f 


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fV^?l^^^'?7?^J>'fjr^?}^<r^  ' 


118 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


•-^•; 


his  journal  Sarytsclieft'  calls  the  vvesterinnost  Tschegoula,  a  name  applied 
by  Admiral  Krusenstern  to  the  group.  One  of  these  is  called  by  Liitke 
Little  or  West  Sitchin ;  another  is  named  Davidoff  on  the  chart. 

Krysi,  Kat,  or  Ayugadakh  Island,  before  mentioned,  is  se\'en  miles 
long,  mountainous,  and  in  latitude  51°  45',  longitude  178°  lli'  east. 

KiSKA,  a  hilly  island,  with  the  exception  of  its  eastern  part,  which  is 
low,  lies  to  the  west  of  the  preceding.  Its  lengtli,  north  and  south,  is 
twenty-iive  miles.  A  rock  in  the  form  of  a  column  lies  three  miles  north- 
west of  the  island.  The  island  is  laid  down  in  Krusenstern's  cliart,  from 
the  Russian  Jidmiralty  chart  of  Sarytscheff,  which  differs  in  position 
somewhat  from  that  given  in  his  memoir.  Behring  saw  it  October  28, 
1741.  He  says  it  is  very  hilly,  and  named  St.  Stephan ;  he  also  speaks 
of  the  small  islands  to  the  east  of  Kiska,  but  instead  of  four  he  only 
mentions  three.  According  to  M.  Inghestriim,  there  exists  to  the  east  of 
Kiska,  at  one  and  a  half  mile  distant,  a  small  isle,  which  he  calls  Little 
Kiska  ;  and  three  miles  fr<rm  th's,  in  the  sanu\ direction,  the  small  island 
Tanuadagh,  and  a  rock.  He  also  mentions  some  rocks,  which  do  not 
uncover,  between  the  islands  Bouldyr  and  Kiska,  at  the  distance  of  five 
leagues  from  the  former.  Captain  Liitke,  however,  considers  this  posi- 
tion as  doubtful. 

Bouldyr  lies  to  the  west-northwest  of  Kiska.  It  is  a  hilly  island, 
surrounded  by  i)eaked  rocks,  which  extend  to  half  a  league  beyond  the 
southwest  point  of  the  island.  It  is  about  four  leagues  in  eiicumference, 
and  two  large  rocks  exist  at  the  western  part  of  the  island. 


BLLJNIE   GROUP. 

This  group,  comi)ose(l  of  two  islands  and  a  collection  of  separate  rocks, 
is  calletl  Blijnie,  (the  nearest,)  because  it  is  the  nearest  to  Kamt.schatka 
of  the  Aleutian  (!hain.  It  was  also  the  first  visited  by  the  hardy  hunters. 
The  discovery  belongs  to  Behring,  as  presently  mentioned. 

Semitschi  forms  a  portion  of  this  westei'umost  group  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands.  It  consists  of  two  small  islands  half  a  league  a])art,  and  extend- 
ing east-northeast  and  west-southwest  six  or  seven  miles.  The  low  land 
which  Behring  saw  October,  1741,  to  which  he  gave  the  nauie  of  Abraham 
Isle,  is  certainly  the  Semitschi  Isles,  which  he  took  for  a  single  island. 
On  the  charts  of  Sarytscheff  and  the  Russian  admindty  a  groui>  of  rocks 
was  inserted  as  lying  sixteen  leagues  to  the  east  of  the  I.sle  of  Attou. 
These  were  placed  from  the  verbal  reports  of  the  fur  traders,  and  were 
considered  as  very  doubtful.  Their  existence,  nevertheless,  was  con- 
firmed by  a  letter  received  by  .Vdmiral  Krusenstern  fror.i  ??.  Inghestrom, 
which  informed  him  that  the  latter  had  distinctly  seen  these  locks,  and 
that  he  had  ap[)roached  very  near  to  them.  lie  estimated  their  distance 
from  the  northeast  extremity  of  the  Semitschi  Islands  at  five  leagues  in 
a  south  79°  east  direction ;  but  the  latitude  and  longitude  given  by 
Inghestnnn,  52°  37'  and  175°,  does  not  at  all  accord  with  the  observa- 
tions of  Admiral  SarytschettV    Unless,  therefore,  an  error  of  25'  in  tlie 


m^v 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


119 


e  applied 
l)y  Liitke 
rt. 

\'en  miles 
3ast. 

,  which  is 
L  south,  is 
lies  iiorth- 
luiit,  from 
II  position 
ictober  28, 
Iso  speaks 
ur  he  only 
the  east  of 
calls  Little 
nail  island 
lich  do  not 
uice  of  five 
s  this  posi- 

lilly  ishmd, 
beyond  the 
•nmfeience, 


avate  rocks, 
anitscliatka 
(ly  hunters. 

\ho  Aleutian 
and  extend- 
he  low  land 
lot"  Abraham 
iiole  island. 
|)U1)  of  rocks 
lie  of  Attou. 
•s,  and  were 
is,  was  con- 
In  {.diestrom, 
e  locks,  and 
lieir  distance 
c  leagues  in 
lie  given  by 
Ithe  observa- 
of  25'  in  the 


latitude  of  Semitsclii  can  be  admitted,  we  must  suppose  an  error  in  these 
figures. 

Agattou,  to  the  south  of  the  Semitschi  Islands,  according  to  Saryt- 
scheff,  has  a  cinnimference  of  thirty-four  miles.  It  is  separated  from 
Attou  by  a  strait  of  fifteen  miles  wide,  according  to  the  Kussian  chart, 

Attou  is  one  of  the  largest  of  tin?  Aleutian  Islands.  According  to 
Captain  Golownin's  observations,  in  1808,  it  is  twenty-seven  and  three- 
quarter  miles  in  length  east  and  v. est;  but  the  Russian  chart  makes  it 
forty-eight  miles  long.  As  Golownin  was  not  sure  that  the  point  he  saw 
was  really  the  western  poijit  or  not,  the  '  itter  dimensions  by  Admiral 
Sarytscheff  may  be  correct.  In  the  southeast  part  of  the  island  is  a  bay, 
in  which  a  vessel  belonging  to  the  Rnssian-An  .u'ican  Company  anchored. 
In  the  plan  of  this,  by  Lieutenant  iJavidfd,  it  is  called  Massacre  Bay. 
It  is  about  three  miles  wide,  and  midwaj  between  the  two  outer  cajjcs 
is  a  group  of  snudl  islets  and  rocks,  within  which  there  also  api)ears  to 
be  a  low  reef,  and  another  lies  outside  them,  half  a  mile  to  the  south- 
west. Lieutenant  Etolin  slipcovered  on  the  north  coast  of  Attou  an 
excellent  bay,  which  he  called  Tschitschagott'  Bay,  where  the  Russian- 
American  Company  have  now  an  establishment.  It  is  in  latitude  52° 
50',  and  nine  miles  from  *^^he  eastern  point  of  the  island. 

This  is  the  western  extremity  of  the  Aleutian  chain,  which  forms  the 
southeastern  limit  of  the  sea  of  Beh'ing.  The  two  islands  lying  near 
the  coast  of  Kamtschatka,  Copper  and  Behring's  Islands,  though  lying 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  to  the  northwest,  might  also  be  considered 
as  a  continuation  ol"  the  chain;  but,  as  they  are  more  connected  with  the 
western  coast,  they  will  be  dojjcribed  with  it  hereafter. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  SEA  OF  BEHKING,  BEH RING'S  STRAIT,  &c. 

The  extensive  and  inclemeat  sea,  whose  shores  and  islands  are  described 
in  the  present  chapter,  derives  its  nanu'  from  the  celebrated  liussian 
navigator  who  first  sailed  in  it,  and  made  known  to  Europe  the  roal 
character  of  the  extremities  of  the  Xew  and  Old  Worlds. 

The  ap[)ellation  t)f  the  Sea  of  Behring  was  first  and  Justly  applied 
to  it  by  Cai)tain  Golownin.  This  replaced  those  by  which  it  had  been 
imi)roper]y  designated,  such  as  the  Sea  of  Otters  (B(,brovo'ie  ;)  but 
it  has  for  many  years  lost  the  exclusive  claim  to  this  title.  There  is  no 
more  reason  why  it  should  be  ternuMl  the  Sea  of  Kamtschatka,  sonu'times 
given  to  it,  than  that  of  Aliaska  or  the  Aleurian.  The  name  of  Behring 
is  therefore  most  apt. 

After  the  revival  of  learning  in  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  (lenturies, 
the  desire  of  gaining  increased  knowledge  of  everything  that  could  be 
acquired  of  the  actual  nature  of  the  v  nld,  then  known  but  to  a  very 


TB!?!i5wW^PJB^BW''!!i™pP?TOwp^^ 


''■''  ' 

till 

[ 


120 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


limited  extent,  led  to  numerous  expeditions  of  discovery.  For  the  most 
part,  these  expeditions  were  dispatched  from  Europe  to  the  westward, 
and  thus  the  progress  of  acquaintance  with  the  shores  of  the  great 
ocean  was  towards  the  north,  and  it  will  be  seen  that  territorial  acquisi- 
tions proceeded  chronologically  in  this  way.  In  this  part,  however,  the 
furthest  extremity  of  the  world,  a  new  system  of  operations  was  brought 
into  action.  Here  the  progress  of  discovery  was  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion. The  Eussian  Czar,  Peter  the  Great,  to  wnom  the  half  of  a  great 
continent  still  seemed  not  sufficient,  drew  up  with  his  own  hand,  shortly 
before  his  death,  the  instructions  for  a  voyage  whoso  object  was  to  ascer- 
tain whether  Asia  was  separated  from  America  by  a  strait,  and  then  to 
extend  the  Russian  dominion  beyond  such  a  limit,  should  nature  have 
thus  marked  it. 

But  in  the  distant  regions  of  this  vast  empire  there  were  no  means  by 
which  such  au  exploratory  voyage  could  be  organized.  They  were  there 
fore  sent  from  Russia:  Vitus  Behring  and  Alexoi  Tschirikoif  were  chosei 
by  the  Empress  Catharine  to  execute  this  part  of  the  will  of  her  great 
l)artner  and  predecessor  in  power.  The  two  ships  destined  for  this  expe 
dition  were  constructed  at  Kamtschatka,  the  first  of  their  kind  that  had 
been  seen  in  this  the  extremity  of  a  land  then  scarcdy  known.  They 
did  not  set  sail  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kamtschatka  River  until  July  20, 
1728.  Behring  shaped  his  course  to  the  northeast,  never  losing  sight  of 
the  Asiatic  coast.  On  AugUvSt  15th  he  reached  latitude  07°  18'  north, 
at  a  point  (now  Cape  Serdze  Kamen)  where  the  coast  turned  to  the  west- 
ward, from  which  he  returned  to  the  port  whence  he  sailed,  without 
having  seen  the  American  coast.  He  had  thus  entered  the  icy  ocean 
without  knowing  it;  he  had  solved  the  great  problpiu,  and  posterity  has 
imposed  the  name  of  Behring  upon  this  strait,  the  reality  supplying  the 
place  of  the  fabulous  Strait  of  A.nian. 

Behring  and  Tschirikott'  made  a  second  voyage  in  1729,  but  it  yielded 
no  new  information. 

A  third  time  did  the  same  commanAers  set  sail  from  Kamtschatka, 
June  4, 1741 ;  this  time  with  the  intention  of  making  the  American  (con- 
tinent to  the  eastward,  the  result  of  which  voyage  is  alhuled  to  in  chap- 
ter II.  Behring  then  sailed  through  the  chain  of  islamls  skirting  the  great 
Peninsula  of  Aliaska.  On  August  29th  he  anchored  at  the  Choumagin 
Islands.  After  this  he  struggled  against  contrary  winds  till  September 
24tli,  when  he  made  the  southwest  extremity  of  Aliaska.  In  the  course 
of  the  next  month  he  discovered  part  of  the  Aleutian  Islands.  By  this 
time  the  commander  was  ill  and  decaying  The  greatest  part  of  the 
crew,  too,  were  attaciked  by  that  frightful  disease  scurvy. 

Behring's  ships  and  crew  were  reduced  to  the  greatest  distress  by  the 
weather  and  sutt'erings  they  encountered.  Worn  out  with  these,  they 
made  for  the  island  now  bearing  his  name;  but  the  ship  was  straiided. 
Many  of  the  crew  died  as  they  were  removed  into  the  air  from  the  ter- 
rible scourge  of  scuivy  that  had  attacked  them.     Ou  November  0th  the 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


J21 


20, 


the 


atka, 

coii- 

•liiip- 

'leat 


liipn 


y  the 

tlioy 

lided. 

ter- 

h  the 


captain  himself  was  brought  on  shore  on  a  hand-barrow,  and  died 
on  December  8,  1741.  "  He  was  a  Dane  by  birth,  and  had  in  liis 
youth  made  voyages  to  the  East  and  West  Indies,  wlien  the  glorious 
example  of  the  immortal  Emperor,  Peter  the  Great,  tempted  him  to 
seek  his  fortune  in  Russia.  I  have  found  it  somewhere  that  in  the 
year  1707  he  was  a  lieutenant,  and  in  1710  captain-lieutenant,  in  the 
Russian  fleet.  When  he  was  made  a  captain  I  cannot  exactly  determine. 
Having  thus  served  in  the  Cronstadt  fleet  from  its  beginning,  aud  been 
in  all  the  expeditions  by  sea  in  the  war  with  the  Swedes,  he  joined  to  the 
capacity  recpiisite  for  his  office  a  long  experience,  which  made  him  i)ar- 
ticularly  worthy  of  such  exploits  as  were  the  discoveries  wherewith  he 
had  been  twice  intrusted.  It  is  a  pity  that  it  was  his  fate  to  end  his  life 
in  such  an  unfortunate  nmnner.  He  may  be  said  to  have  been  buried 
half  alive,  for  the  sand  rolling  down  occasionally  from  the  side  of  the 
ditch  in  which  lie  lay,  and  covering  his  feet,  he  at  hist  would  not  suffer 
it  to  be  removed,  and  said  that  he  felt  some  warmth  from  it,  whidi  other- 
wise he  should  want  in  the  remaining  parts  of  his  body,  and  thus  the  sand 
increased  to  his  belly;  so  that,  after  his  decease,  they  were  obliged  to 
scra])e  him  out  of  the  ground  in  order  to  inter  him  in  a  proper  manner." 
(Miiller,  p.  55.) 

The  ship,  the  St.  Peter,  was  subsequently  wrecked  at  her  anchors,  and 
the  survivors  constructed  a  small  vessel  from  her  timber,  by  means  of 
which  thej  reached  Port  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  on  the  27th  of  August 
ensuing,  having  existed  on  the  seals'  and  whales'  flesh  thrown  on  the 
shores  of  the  ishiiid.  Among  those  who  reached  Euroi)e  safely  were 
Miiller,  the  historian  of  the  expedition,  and  the  celebrated  i)hilosopher, 
Gmelin.     Steller,  the  natiiralist,  died  on  his  journey. 

Tschirikolf's  voyage  was  less  unfortunate  than  his  commander's;  but 
he  scarcely  had  fewer  hardships.  He  returned  to  Russia  after  having 
( x])lored  part  of  tlie  American  coast. 

Such  was  the  success  of  the  first  Russian  exi)editions.  They  were  fol 
lowed  at  intervals  by  many  others,  among  which  the  names  of  Glotoff, 
Synd,  Krenitzin,  and  Levacheff,  stand  most  conspicuous.  The  details 
of  these  voyages,  mostly  in  the  Aleutian  chain,  are  given  in  the  interest- 
ing work  of  the  Rev.  William  Coxe,*  whose  influence  at  St.  Petersburg 
led  to  the  advancenuMit  of  scientific  research  in  this  part. 

The  great  Rritish  navigator,  James  Cook,  entered  the  Icy  Ocean,  and 
ascertained  the  exact  nature  of  the  continental  separation  first  traversed 
by  Behring  in  August,  1778 ;  and  his  second  in  conjmand,  Cajitain  Clerke, 
after  his  sad  catastro])he  at  Hawaii,  again  penetrated  to  the  icy  barrier 
in  Jidy,  1 77J).  The  abortive  Russian  expedition  under  Comtiu)d(n-e  Jose])h 
Rillings,  an  Englishman,  made  by  order  of  the  Empress  Catharine  II, 
in  1785  to  1701,  did  not  penetrate  the  strait,  one  great  object  of  the  ex- 
pedition, after  having  traversed  the  Sea  of  Behring.  For  the  account 
of  this  voyage,  which  cost  so  much  time  and  expense  in  preparation,  we 

*  RuHHiaii  Diseovi'iies,  by  W.  Coxo,  4t<),  Loiulou,  1780. 


Mi 


r'iyTj!f^T!frii^i:ffii^'^/v;^i'^rvW'<^>"i'^7^ 


.  '  "r''W^T>'Si-\'WVw't<5»i'.' 


122 


ALASKA   DIREOTORY. 


m^m^ii^ 


li 


11 


tl 


1 


fl- 


are  indebted  to  the  secretary,  Martin  Saner,  who  ])ubli.shed  an  edition 
in  English,  and  to  Captain  Sarytschetl",  the  second  in  command,  who 
publislied  anotlier  acconnt  in  Russian.  Otherwise  we  should  have 
received  no  information  whatever  from  this  expedition. 

In  1817  Captain  Otto  von  Kotzebue  examined  and  named  most  of  the 
points  on  the  American  coast  of  Behring's  Strait;  and  in  1820  his  lieu- 
tenant, Schischmareff,  again  visited  its  shores. 

The  Asiatic  coast,  from  East  Cape  to  Kamtschatka,  is  amply  described 
from  the  admirable  survey  s'ud  examinations  of  Captain  (since  Kear- 
Admiral)  Frederic  Liitke.  In  182G  the  Russian  corvettes,  tlie  Moller, 
Captain  Stanikowitch,  and  the  Seniavine,  under  Captain  Liitke,  were 
dispatched  to  these  seas.  The  Seniavine  examined  almost  the  whole 
of  the  western  shores,  and  to  the  account  of  this  voyage  we  owe  our 
descriptions. 

To  British  navigators  we  are  indebted  for  the  accurate  knowledge  Ave. 
possess  of  the  American  shores.  This  is  from  the  memorabh^  voyage  of 
his  Majesty's  ship  Blossom,  under  Captain  F.  W.  Bee(;hey,  who  minutely 
surveyed  the  eastern  shores  of  the  strait.  Tliis  ship  was  sent  from 
England  to  co-operate  with  the  Arctic  expedition,  dispatched  to  examine 
the  northern  coast  of  America.  It  was  anticipated  that  one  branch,  under 
Dr.  (afterwards  Sir  John)  Franklin,  would  have  reached  the  Pacific,  but, 
after  two  attemi)ts  made  by  the  Blossom  in  the  sununers  of  182G  and  1827, 
the  object  was  relinquished. 

To  the  intrepid  voyager.  Sir  John  Franklin,  we  are  indebted  for  the 
last  of  these  expeditions.  The  intense  anxiety  of  the  whole  world  to  aid 
in  the  succor  of  the  well-known  Arctic  expedition,  commenced  in  1846, 
caused  the  Biitish  admiralty  to  send  her  Majesty's  shi])s  Herald.  Captain 
Hellett,  and  Plover,  Commander  Moore,  through  the  straits  iu  181J).  In 
company  Avith  these  the  schooner  yacht,  Nancy  Dawson,  under  her  owner, 
Robert  Shedder,  esq.,  penetrated  to  the  extreme  north  and  east.  They 
made  scAcral  interesting  discoAcries,  hereafter  alluded  to,  and  proceeded 
further  north  than  any  before,  though,  as  is  but  too  well  known,  without 
succeeding  in  the  object  of  the  expedition. 

Whales  have  been  found  to  be  numerous  in  the  Icy  Ocean.  Captain 
Beechey  notices  this:  "Oft"  Icy  Cape  we  saw  a  great  many  black  Avhales, 
more  than  I  ever  remember  to  have  seen  in  Baffin's  Bay."  (Voyage  of 
the  Blossom,  vol.  i,  p.  27G.)  The  pursuit  may  be  followed  during  July 
and  August;  and  in  consequence  of  the  high  latitude,  there  is  light 
enough  throughout  the  night  for  the  purpose — no  small  advantage. 
Another  point,  too,  is,  that  the  depth  not  being  great,  seldom  ex- 
ceeding twenty  or  thirty  fathoms,  there  are  no  floating  icebergs  of 
formidable  dimensions,  as  compared  with  other  icy  regiou'j,  and  there  is 
good  anchorage  everywhere.  On  the  other  hand,  thick  fogs,  strong 
currents,  and  imperfect  charts,  render  the  operations  somewhat  pre- 
carious. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


123 


The  i)orts  and  their  capabilities,  on  the  American  side,  are  amply 
described.    Of  the  American  iuliabitants  we  will  say  a  few  words: 

The  Western  Esquimaux  seem  to  be  very  nearly  connected  with  the 
other  tribes  inhabitinj^  the  northern  and  northeastern  shores  of  America, 
in  their  features,  language,  and  habits.  They  alsQ  resemble  the  Tchuktchi, 
from  whom  they  are  probably  descended.  Those  0(!cupying  the  north- 
western coast  of  America,  between  (>l°  M'  and  71°  -4'  north,  are  a 
nation  of  fishermen,  dAvelling  near  the  sea-shore,  from  which  they  draw 
almost  their  entire  subsistence.  Tliey  construct  their  yourts,  or  winter 
residences,  partly  ex(!avated  in  the  earth,  and  partly  covered  with  moss 
laid  upon  i)oles  of  drift-wood,  upon  convenient  positions  for  their  occu- 
pation. Th 63"  form  themselves  into  communities,  seldom  exceeding  one 
huiulred  persons.  Beech ey  reckoned  nineteen  of  these  villages  within 
the  above  limits,  the  total  number  not  exceeding  2,r)()0  persons.  They 
are  taller  than  the  Eastern  Es([uimaux,  averaging  five  feet  seven  and 
a  half  inches;  they  are  also  better-looking  than  tlij;)se  of  Baftiu's  Bay, 
&c.  They  difler  widely,  too,  from  the  inhabitants  of  Greenland,  being 
more  continent,  industrious,  and  provident,  and  also  more  warlike, 
irascible,  and  uucourteous,  and  nearly  resembling  in  these  respects  the 
Tchuktchi.  Hospitality  forms  one  distinguishing  feature  of  their  dis- 
position;  smoking  is  their  favorite  habit,  to  whic^h  tiiey  are  passionately 
devoted.  The  lip  ornament,  or  labret,  before  irentioned,  is  here  peculiar 
to  the  males  of  the  Western  Esquimaux,  and  is  only  in  use  from  Norton 
Sound  to  Mackenzie  Kiver,  on  the  north  coast.  It  is  an  ancient  custom, 
as  it  is  described  by  Deschnew  in  1048.  It  is  singular  that  it  is  here 
confined  to  the  men  only  for  a  short  distance,  while  southward  the  custom 
prevails  among  the  females  on  a  great  extent  of  coast.  Their  language  so 
nearly  resembles  that  of  the  eastern  tribes  that  they  are  mutually  under- 
stood; south  of  Norton  Sound,  however,  tliis  remark  does  not  hold  good. 

When  (Japtain  Beechey  was  on  the  coast,  in  182()-'27,  he  found  them 
somewhat  annoying  and  treachero'is  <\i  times.  It  is  evident,  however, 
that  this  must  have  arisen  from  their  imperfect  conception  of  the  object 
of  his  visit.  Since  that  period  they  hav^e  greatly  im])roved  in  this 
respect;  and  during  the  p. ogress  of  the  expedition  in  1841),  Captains 
Kellett,  Moore,  and  Shedden  found  tliem  pleasant,  docile,  and  very  trac- 
table. This  w  ,s  .31  part  owing  ta  their  having  a  proper  interpreter,  who 
explained  what  their  object  was.  The  Russian  settlements,  too,  have 
been  very  instrumental  in  causing  this  alteration  in  their  conduct.  Many 
of  them  were  found  with  shirts,  gaudy  handkei chiefs,  cottons  printed  with 
Avalrus,  reindeer,  and  all  other  animals  they  are  in  the  habit  of  catching, 
and  representations  in  ivcuy  of  knives  and  kettles,  all  procured  from  the 
Eussians.  They  were  at  last  very  anxious  to  obtain  muskets,  and  evinced 
no  fear  in  discharging  them. 

The  Peninsula  of  Aliaska,*  whose  southeastern  coast  has  been  pre- 

*  Ciiptaiu  Liltko  says,  that  in  Hpcllinji;  this  Aliaslta  he  follows  the  orthography  gen- 
erally a<lo})te(i  in  the  coloiil'  i.  It  was  sometimes  previously  spelled  Aliaksa.  The 
natives  pronounce  it  Aliakskha ;  so  that  both  modes  are  right  or  wrong. 


iPji,V«i»fmiii«i'«M«i,w,ui-injw<(!i*i»ii«v'-i'-  ^.vlflrvl'.-•\"^-.'^v^mx.!^>;'^nrflT'^^trf!?^ 


iM 


tt ,,  i , 


124 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


viously  described,  forms,  with  the  Aleutian  Archipelago,  the  southern 
limits  of  Behriiig's  Sea,  or,  as  it  has  been  .-tometiines  called,  the  Sea  of 
Kamtschatka.  The  descrii)tion  is  therefore  resui.ied  at  the  poijit  where 
the  former  left  off,  namely,  at  the  Strait  of  Isunotzky. 

There  appears  to  be  considerable  uncertainty  as  to  the  correctness  of 
the  charts  of  the  coast,  immediately  to  the  northeast  of  the  Strait  of 
Isanotzky.    It  was  partially  explored  in  baidars  from  the  corvette  Moller. 

Point  Krenitzin  appears  to  be  the  first  prominent  point  to  the  north- 
ward. It  is  the  extremity  of  a  low  bed  of  gravel,  and  is  the  northwest- 
ern point  of  an  open  bay,  on  the  east  side  of  which  is  the  village 
Morjovskoi,  (Morses.)  This  village  stands  on  low,  marshy  land,  inter- 
sected with  numerous  lakes.  Wood  or  trees  are  very  rare  here;  but  the 
natives  live  well,  and  cultivate  potatoes  and  turnips  in  their  gardens, 
and  raise  poultry. 

Izenbek  Bay  (or,  according  to  Krusenstern,  Comte  Heiden  Bay*)  is  the 
next  port  in  proceeding  northward.  Its  southwestern  point,  Cape  (rlaze- 
nap,  or  Mitkoff  of  Kiusenstern,  according  to  the  observations  mad  by 
Liitke,  is  in  latitude  55°  14'  8"  north,  and  longitude  l()2o  50'  7"  west. 
This  cape  is  very  remarkable  by  a  considerable  elevation,  and  by  its 
form ;  at  a  distance  it  is  like  an  island  separated  from  the  low  land  to 
the  south  of  it.  The  mouth  of  the  bay  is  filled  up  by  a  long  and  very 
low  island,  which  at  high  water  is  divided  into  two  or  three.  Its  south 
point  is  about  a  mile  distant  from  Cape  Glazenap,  and  its  north  point 
above  two  miles  from  (Jape  Moffet.  This  extensive  gulf  has  iiot  been 
fully  described.  The  depth  in  the  south  entrance  was  found  to  be  four 
and  a  half  and  five  fathoms,  bottom  of  fine  black  sand.  From  the 
top  of  Cape  Glazenap  the  depth  appeared  greater  to  the  southward;  and 
on  the  east  side  of  the  island  there  was  a  large  (piantity  of  whalebone, 
which  shows  that  there  is  depth  enough  for  these  animals.  From  these 
circumstances  it  was  ctinsidered  that  Izenbek  Bay  would  (^ffer  anchorage, 
and  therefore  merits  a  more  minute  examination.  Tlie  eastern  coast  of 
the  bay  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  covered  with  snow. 

Amak  or  Aamak  Island  lies  off  this  part  of  the  coast.  It  is  an 
extinct  volcano,  covered  with  calcined  stones  and  lava.  It  is  rather  less 
fi'an  four  miles  in  length,  in  a  north  17°  west,  and  south  17°  east,  direc- 

n.     Its  south  extremity  is  in  latitude  5.")°  25',  and  longitude  1(>.'}°  1'  ,'30". 

'  two  mile^  northwest  by  compass  from  its  north  end  is  a  rock  called 
tk<  Sivoutchy  (or  Sea-Lions')  Rock.  Between  the  island  and  the  nniin 
the  depth  is  from  nine  to  fourteen  fathoms.  The  soundings  in  the  ofting 
are  not  deep.  Captain  Cook  found  nineteen  fathoms  at  three  or  four 
leagues  off  the  south  part  of  the  island.  They  also  caught  here  a  good 
number  of  fine  codfish.t  Captain  Stanikowitch  found  the  magnetic 
variation  to  be  21^°  east,  in  182G. 

The  coast  to  the  northward  presents  nothing  very  remarkable.     It 


*  It  will  be  seen  hereafter  that  Stanikowitch  gives  this  name  to  a  bay  to  the  northeast. 
t  Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol.  ii. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


125 


hrec- 

;k)". 

alletl 


four 

•  ood 

netic 


.     It 


licast. 


trends  first  northeast  and  then  ea,st.  For  a  distance  of  fifty  miles  there 
are  only  two  capes,  somewhat  higher  than  the  rest;  to  these  the  names 
of  the  lieutenants  of  the  corvette  MoUer,  lieontovitch  and  Leskoff,  were 
applied.  In  this  space  there  is  much  drift-wood,  and  the  nature  of  the 
coast  is  generally  a  damp  turf,  covered  with  moss,  frequently  interrupted 
by  lakes  of  fresh  water.  Cape  Leontovitch  is  the  most  conspicuous,  as 
beyond  it  the  coast  trends  more  to  the  east.  It  is  low,  and  the  land 
extends  in  a  mossy  and  marshy  i)lain  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  parallel 
with  the  coast,  at  fifteen  miles  distant. 

Cape  Ilojnott',  or  Itoslmott',  whicrh  is  at  the  extremity  of  the  extent  of 
coast  above  albnled  to,  is  very  low ;  and  at  one  and  a  half  mile  from  it 
is  the  westerii  point  of  Kritskoi  Island,  also  very  low  ;  the  two  form  the 
entrance  to  a  shallow  bay,  which  runs  in  first  west  by  south,  and  then 
south  by  west,  by  compass,  to  a  low  isthmus,  three  miles  in  breadth, 
separating  it  from  Pavloft'  Baj^,  on  the  south  coast  of  Aliaska.  When 
the  tide  is  in,  this  bay  appears  of  vast  extent;  but  at  low  water  it  is 
nearly  dry  throughout,  leaving  only  a  narrow  an«l  sinuous  channel 
through  it.  The  chain  of  mountains  which  extends  through  the  penin- 
sula is  interrupted  in  this  part.  The  rise  of  the  tide  is  fifteen  feet,  and 
the  (approximate)  time  of  high  water  is  Ih.  30w. 

MoLLER  Bay  is  a  large  indentation  of  the  land,  which  narrows  the 
peninsula  to  twelve  miles  in  breadth  at  this  part.  A  large  portion  of  this 
bay  is  filled  with  shoals,  which  uncover  at  low  water;  but  in  its  south- 
east angle  is  a  small  cove,  where  there  is  sufficient  water  for  every  de- 
scription of  vessels,  and  which  is  covered  from  seaward  by  a  bed  of 
gravel  which  advances  to  the  south.  This  is  the  only  port  which  exists 
on  all  the  north  coast  of  Aliaska.  It  is  about  a  mile  in  length  and  breadth, 
and  the  hiad  gives  from  four  and  a  half  to  eight  fathoms,  umddy  bottom. 
In  entering  it,  you  must  range  close  to  the  bed  of  gravel,  the  edges  of 
which  u'e  clear  and  deep,  to  avoid  a  shoal,  which  is  less  than  a  mile 
from  it;  a.-d  as  soon  as  you  have  made  out  this  bed  of  gravel,  steer  for 
a  point  on  the  "ast  side  of  the  port,  which  is  particularly  remarkable  by 
its  blackish  color,  and  which  lies  about  one  and  a  half  mile  northeast 
by  east  by  compass  from  the  extremity  of  the  gravel  bed.  The  moun- 
tains, which  are  of  a  moderate  height,  advance  here  to  the  coast,  leaving 
no  room  for  the  mossy  plains  which  generally  occupy  the  space  between 
the  loot  of  the  ujoun tains  and  the  sea  shore.  This  part,  the  most  remark- 
able on  the  northwest  sbore  of  Aliaska,  deserves  a  more  particular  exam, 
ination,  as  it  was  only  superficially  explored  in  the  boats  of  the  corvette. 
Moller. 

The  bay  is  about  six  miles  wide  in  its  opening.  Its  entrance,  on  ths 
west  side,  is  formed  by  the  east  point  of  Kritskoi  Island,  which  was 
determined  to  be  in  5G°  0'  7"  and  longitude  160°  41'  west.  The  extrem- 
ity of  the  bed  of  gravel  which  forms  the  port  is  seven  and  a  half  miles 
to  the  southeast  by  east  (by  compass)  from  this.  Kritskoi  Island  ex- 
tends nine  miles  alopg  the  coast  in  a  west  by  south  and  east  by  north 


'  ft 


^.T:'';*'s?B''«T87'j»?viytTiT=T::'^:rj^?7f«j^ 


:•  "'(11^,^  ^^^\i.  VT' . 


^.'i?vif>fy'j:;.^7il^?7-y'!!^^ 


126 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


is   I 


direction.  It  is  so  low  in  several  parts  that  at  high  water  it  must  be 
overflowed.  The  strait  which  separates  it  from  the  (lontinent  is  one  and 
a  half  mile  broad,  and  has  very  little  water ;  at  low  water,  spring 
tides,  it  mnst  be  nearly  dry.  A  great  nnmber  of  morses  frequent  the 
eastern  end  of  the  island,  the  coast  being  covered  by  thonsanda  of  them 
at  times.     ()p]>osite  its  Aveat  end  is  Cape  Kojiiott",  before  mentioned. 

From  Moller  bay  the  coast  trends  to  the  north  by  east,  and  at  twenty 
miles  distant  is  Cape  Kontouzoif.  This  cape  is  high  and  abrupt,  and 
thirteen  miles  northeast  from  it  is  Cai)e  Seniavine,  also  high  and  steej), 
the  space  between  being  low,  either  marshy  or  covered  with  grass  and 
furrowed  by  numerous  fresh-water  rivulets.  About  midv.ay  l)etween 
are  two  hillocks  on  the  coast.  Tlie  peaks  of  some  of  the  nu)untaina  in 
the  background  are  so  high  as  to  be  (jovered  with  snow  thvonghont  the 
summer.  Cape  Sdniavine  is  in  latitude  5(5°  23' 45",  and  longitude  160° 
2'  45"  west. 

Tlie  coast  beyond  this  olfers  nothing  remarkable  for  a  considerable 
distance.  It  consists  of  a  low,  level,  mossy  plain.  At  abont  nine  leagues 
from  Cape  Seniavine,  a  low  bed  of  gravel  couunences,  which  extends  in 
front  of  the  coast  for  ten  miles,  se])arated  from  it  by  a  shallow  canal, 
v,'hich  at  low  water  becomes  a  lake,  discharging  itself  by  two  small 
streams  at  either  end.  Beyond  this  the  low  level  coast  extends  ten  miles 
further  to  Cape  Strongonotf.  This  is  extremely  low,  and  projects  two 
miles  to  the  north.  In  the  interval  on  the  shore  is  a  great  (jnantity  of 
drift-wood,  some  large  trees  being  anu)ng  it. 

CoMTE  Heiden  Bay  (or,  according  to  Krnsenstern,  Houdobin  Bay*) 
is  formed  by  the  low  Cape  Strogonoft"  to  the  Avestward.  Before  this  cape 
is  an  islet,  equally  low,  called  on  the  chart  Chestakott"  Islet,  and  between 
this  islet,  or  rather  between  the  shoal  off  its  north  end  and  the  coast  of 
the  continent,  is  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  which  extends  six  miles  to  the 
southeast,  and  the  oi)ening  is  two  and  a  lialf  miles  broad.  It  is  not 
known  whether  there  be  any  anchorage  in  it. 

From  this  the  coast,  equally  low,  uniform,  and  covered  with  moss, 
trends  to  the  uorth-northeast.  In  latitude  57°  5'  are  two  moderately  high 
capes  terminating  to  seaward  in  sandy  downs. 

Cape  Menchikoff  (named  after  the  prince)  is  in  latitude  57°  30'  4",  and 
longitude  157°  58'  5".  It  consists  of  a  mound  of  sand,  from  the  flat- 
tened summit  of  which  may  be  seen  the  marshy  land  surrounding  it  on 
all  sides,  which  at  high  water  may  be  covered  and  form  the  cape  into  an 
island. 

At  eight  miles  northeast  from  this  is  the  mouth  of  the  river  Ougat- 
chick,  called  the  Soulima  in  the  jourh.d  of  the  Moller  and  by  Krnsen- 
stern, which  is  two  miles  broad;  the  south  side  is  a  marsh,  the  north 
side  higher.  The  depth  in  its  entrance  is  from  ten  to  eighteen  feet  at 
low  water.    The  current  in  it  is  extremely  rapid,  and  the  natives  say 


' See  Izeubek  Bay. 


.i*ifpiii^pinR^*jit,i^p^P7Pnip"«'jiR"*ni>Kv^n*«Fv^pv<P!inMni|i« 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


127 


that  it  soparatos  into  two  branelios  in  the  interior — one  to  nortlicaat,  the 
other  to  sontheast. 

The  nortli  point  of  its  month  is  named  Cape  (hei^',  after  the  Admiral. 
It  is  hi}>l»  and  steep :  its  hititude  is  57°  4.']',  and  l()n«>itnde  157°  47'  2",  and 
is  aurronnded  by  sand-banks,  dry  at  low  water.  From  this  the  coast 
trends,  low,  level,  and  straij;ht,  in  a  genend  north  17°  east  direction  to 
the  month  of  the  Agoupiek  Kiver. 

Cai)tain  Cook,  in  passiiif?  along  the  (!oast,  July  0,  1778,  says:  <'At 
noon  we  were  in  latitude  57^  49',  and  about  two  leajiuea  from  the  land, 
which  extended  from  south  by  east  to  east-northeast,  beinj^  all  a  low 
coast,  with  iwints  shootinj>'  out  in  some  places,  whi(;h  from  the  deck 
appeared  like  islands  :  but  from  the  masthead  low  land  was  seen  to  con- 
nect them.  In  this  situation  the  depth  of  water  was  fifteen  fathoms, 
the  bottom  a  tine  black  sand.* 

Tlie  River  Agougack,  or  IJgagouck,  Krusenstern  considers  to  be  the 
northern  limit  of  the  Peninsula  of  Aliaska,  as  it  really  separates  Aliaska 
from  the  continent  of  Auierica.  It  here  begins  to  extend  in  breadth, 
and  the  river  traverses  it  from  east  to  west,  and  rises  in  a  lake  called 
Nanouantoughat,  which  is  only  separated  from  the  Strait  of  Chelighoft' 
by  a  neck  of  land  five  miles  in  breadth,  at  the  ba(;k  of  the  Bay  of  Pas- 
calo.  Over  this  space  was  a  portage  for  the  merchandise  collected  by 
the  Russian  American  Fur  Company  at  the  establishment  in  Bristol 
Bay,  which  is  thus  transported,  by  means  of  the  river,  to  the  headquar- 
ters at  Sitka. 

The  breadth  of  the  river  is  about  two  miles  at  its  mouth,  and  at  about 
seven  miles  northeast  by  compass  from  it  is  a  hill,  which,  with  Cape 
Tschitchagoff,  serves  to  i)oint  out  the  i)osition  of  the  entrance.  Its  shores 
are  very  low,  particularly  the  south  side.  The  current  is  very  rapid, 
the  tide  rising  twenty  feet. 

Cape  Tschitchagort"  is  bluff  without  being  high,  and  surrounded  for 
two  miles  distant  by  shoals,  which,  being  left  dry  at  low  water,  form  a 
series  of  sand  islets. 

From  this  cape  a  level  marshy  coast  succeeds.  Its  aspect  is  most 
extraordinarily  monotonous,  and  for  thirty  miles  in  a  northeast  by 
north  direction,  which  it  takes,  there  is  only  one  spot,  in  about  latitude 
58°  35',  where  there  is  a  hill,  which  rises  about  two  hurulred  yards  from 
the  sea,  forming  an  elevation  like  a  wall  composed  of  sand  and  clay. 

Cape  Souvoroft',  which  is  at  the  distance  above  named,  was  the  last 
point  reached  by  Stanikowitch  in  the  corvette  Moller.  It  forms  the  north 
point  of  the  mouth  of  the  River  Nanek  or  Nackneck. 

This  river,  flowing  from  a  lake  of  the  same  name,  traverses  the  Penin- 
sula of  Aliaska.  At  its  mouth  it  is  about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
and  there  are  two  fathoms  water  in  it.  Its  steep  sides  are  formed  of  an 
adhesive  clay.  On  each  side  of  the  mouth  are  villages.  That  to  the 
right  is  Koutchougoumut,  that  to  the  left  Paougvigumut.    The  position 

*  Third  voyage,  vol.  ii,  p.  45J8. 


128 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


ifit 


'II 


r:?;?! 


of  the  latter  was  ascertained  to  be  in  58°  42'  5"  north  and  IfiTo  0'30" 
west.  The  popnhition  of  the  two  villajyes  was  about  five  hundred.  The 
river  Nanek  abounds  with  ati  extraordinary  (juantity  offish.  This,  with 
reindeer  and  birds,  forms  the  supplies  of  the  natives.  From  the  evi- 
dences seen  on  its  borders,  tlu^  tide  rises  in  the  river  to  thirty  feet.* 

"As  we  had  advanced  to  the  northeast  we  had  found  the  depth  of 
water  jyradually  ihicreasinj?,  and  the  coast  trending;'  more  and  more  north- 
erly. But  the  ridge  of  mountains  behind  it  continued  to  lie  in  the  same 
direction  as  those  more  westerly;  so  that  the  extent  of  low  land  between 
the  foot  of  the  mountains  and  the  seacoast  insensibly  increased.  Both 
high  and  low  grouiuls  were  perfectly  destitute  of  wood,  but  seemed  to  be 
covered  with  a  green  turf,  except  the  mountains,  which  were  covered 
with  snow." — {Cai)tain  Cook.) 

Bristol  Bay. — The  coast  we  have  been  describing  forms  tiie  south- 
ern portion  of  the  coast  of  the  bay,  that  named  by  Captain  Cook  after 
the  admiral,  the  Earl  of  Bristol. 

This  great  indentation  was  sailed  around  by  Captain  Cook,  but  the 
shoals  which  obstruct  it  prevented  his  making  a  detailed  examination 
of  its  shores.  This  work  was  undertaken  in  1818  by  Oustugoff,  at  the 
desire  of  the  late  Count  Komanzott",  who  also  bore  a  part  of  the  expenses; 
but,  as  this  officer  did  not  possess  sufficient  scientific  knowledge  to  carry 
it  completely  into  effect,  Lieutenant  Chramtschenko,  an  officer  of  merit, 
was  sent  in  1821  to  examine  it  in  detail.! 

Cape  Newenham  forms  the  northern  point  of  this  bay,  and,  according 
to  Admiral  Krusenstern,  Cape  Ounimak,  the  western  point  of  the  island 
of  that  name  off  Aliaska,  may  be  taken  as  its  southern  limits,  and  which 
lies  eighty-two  leagues  to  the  south-southwest  of  Cape  Newenham,  so 
that  the  northwest  coast  of  Aliaska  forms  the  southern  part  of  Bristol 
Bay. 

This  bay  contains  another  inner  bay,  which  is  formed  by  a  promon- 
tory, named  Cape  Constantine  on  the  Russian  charts,  and  within  which 
three  rivers  debouch.  The  northernmost  of  these  is  the  Bristol  Eiver. 
The  Ouglaghmoutes  (as  the  inhabitants  of  the  shores  of  the  bay  are 
called)  give  it  the  name  of  (Juitshak.  It  takes  its  rise  in  a  lake  named 
on  the  Russian  charts  Lake  Clieleghoff,  which  is  again  connected  with 
another  lake,  Ilimen,  by  a  second  river.  The  latter  lake  is  in  latitude 
59°  50.' 

Captain  Cook's  account  of  his  making  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  thus: 
"  Behind  this  point  is  a  river,  the  entrance  of  which  seemed  to  be  a  mile 

*  Liitke,  Voyage,  &c.,  Part.  Nant.,  p.  257,  et  seq. 

t  Subsequeutly  to  1821,  Lieutenant  Chramtschenko,  (who  accompanied  Kotzebne  in 
the  Rurick,)  together  with  M.  Etoline,  a  naval  officer  in  the  Russian  American  Com- 
pany's service,  were  annually  tlispatched,  in  two  vessels,  to  explore  the  American  coasts. 
To  thesj  offlj^rs  wo  own  tha  more  accurate  knowledge  of  all  the  coiist  from  Cape  New- 
enham to  Norton  Sound,  which  Ca])tain  Cook  could  not  approach  on  account  of  the 
shoal  water. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


129 


I  thus : 
mile 


|bue  in 

Com- 

I  coasts. 

New- 
I  of  the 


broad,  but  I  can  say  iiothin;;  as  to  ita  depth.  The  water  appeared  dis- 
colored, as  upon  shoals,  but  a  calm  would  have  given  it  the  same 
aspect.  It  seemed  to  have  a  winding' direction  through  th(i  great  tlat 
that  lies  between  the  chain  of  mountains  to  the  southeast  and  tlie  hills 
to  the  northwest.  It  must  abound  with  salmon,  as  we  saw  nmiiy  leaj)- 
ingin  the  sea  before  tlie  entrance;  aiul  some  were  fimnd  in  the  maws  of 
the  cod  which  we  had  caught." — (Vol.  ii,  p.  429.) 

Cook's  determination  of  its  position,  latitude  58°  27',  longitude  201"^ 
55',  may  thus  not  be  so  exact  as  usual.  A  short  distance  east,  and  ten 
miles  to  the  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  as  it  is  marked  by  Cook,  is 
that  of  the  Naneck,  which  has  an  east  and  west  direction,  and  near 
which  is  a  village  of  Ouglaglimoutes. 

The  third  river  which  enters  this  inner  bay,  to.  the  west  of  the  Bristol 
River,  is  called  the  Nouchagack,  or  N^oushagak.  Its  course  is  in  a  north- 
northwestern  direction.  The  opening  formed  on  the  north  by  the  coast, 
and  by  Cape  Constantino  on  the  south,  may  bo  taken  iis  its  mouth, 
which  is  twenty  miles  broad,  and  preserves  this  breadth  to  the  distance 
of  thirty  miles;  it  then  turns  rather  more  to  the  eastward,  and  its 
breadth  begins  to  diminish.  In  latitude  58°  57'  the  river  is  still  three 
miles  broad,  and  it  is  here,  on  the  left»  bank,  that  the  company  have 
founded  an  establishment,  which  is  called  Alexandroffsk.  A  bank  fifteen 
miles  in  length  lies  before  this  establishment ;  and  it  is  between  this 
bank  and  the  main  land  that  there  is  a  passage  to  the  road  of  Alexan- 
drott'sk.  Baron  Wrangel,  who  explored  the  Nouchagak  in  1832,  discov- 
ered a  passage  between  these  banks,  with  which  the  river  is  filled  during 
the  ebb.  The  tides  are  very  strong  in  the  river ;  they  rise  twenty-three 
feet  in  the  summer  months,  and  forty  seven  feet  in  the  autumn.*  The 
ebb  lasts  an  hour  longer  than  the  flood  tide,  and  its  force  is  from  four  to 
five  miles  an  hour. 

The  extremity  of  Cape  Constantino  is  in  latitude  58°  29'  north,  and 
158°  45'  west.  It  is  the  same  land  that  Cook  saw  on  July  10,  1778,  but 
could  not  approach  for  the  shoal  water,  as  the  ships  were  obliged  to 
stand  oflf  in  four  fathoms  water.  The  examination  of  Lieutenant  Chramt-* 
schenko  proves  that  Cape  Constantino  is  surrounded  by  sand-banks  to 
the  distance  of  four  leagues  to  the  southward ;  in  general,  all  the  coast 
between  the  mouths  of  the  Nouchagak  and  Bristol  Rivers  is  bounded  by 
similar  sand-banks,  which  extend  so  far  out  to  sea  that  the  space  com- 
prised between  Cape  Constantino  and  the  coast,  considered  as  the  outer 
entrance  to  the  Nouchagak  River,  is  narrowed  to  seven  miles.  The 
eastern  point  of  this  bay  forming  this  entrance  is  named  Cape  Etoline, 
The  bay  itself  is  called  Chramtschenko  Bay,  after  the  Russian  surveyor.. 

From  Cape  Constantine  the  coast  takes  a  westerly  direction,  and 
forms,  with  Cape  Newenham,  an  extensive  bay  of  thirty-five  leagues  in 

*  In  this  great  rise  of  tide  it  resembles  the  channel  of  the  same  name  in  the  west  of 
England,  and  all  other  similarly  constituted  bays. 
9  AD 


m 


^fTvrw:ifr>r.7^r^''W7^'"w<irif'rlf 


130 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


i;,t 


ext<*nt,  into  which  the  two  rivers,  Kiiliilac.k  and  Tnjiiji;iak,  discliarge 
thcinH(^IvoH.  There  are  Htnernl  iwhuuls  in  tliis  bay.  Cook  only  saw  the 
eaHternniost,  which  lie  named  'Uonnd  Island.  It  is  an  elevated  hill, 
abont  seven  miles  from  th<>  continent,  and  obtained  this  name  trom  its 
fijjnre.  To  the  noi'thwt'st  of  it  are  two  or  three  liilhx^ks  that  appeared 
like  islands,  bnt,  as  the  shijis  passed  at  too  great  a  distance,  this  was 
not  determined.  At  the  distance  of  twenty  miles  to  the  we/it  of  Uoiind 
Island  is  a  larger  one,  abont  fifty  miles  in  circnmference,  which  has  been 
named  Hagemeister  Island,  after  the  captain  of  that  name,  who  was  for 
some  time  (commander  of  tln^  Russian  company's  (iolonies  here,  ('ook 
saw  its  southern  iK)int  without  suspe(!ting  it  to  be  part  of  an  island: 
"It  is  an  elevated  i)oint,  Avhich  obtained  the  name  of  Calm  I'oiut, 
from  our  having  calm  weather  when  ott'  it."  (Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  4.31.)  Be- 
tween this  point  and  Round  Island  there  are  four  other  islands  in  a 
northeast  direction.  Lieutenant  Cramtsc^henko  passed  between  these 
islai'ds,  and  between  the  main  land  and  Hagemeister  Island.  This 
channel  is  about  eight  miles  in  length,  and  it  may  be  passed  through 
cither  from  the  north  or  south ;  the  anchorage  in  it  is  safe  throughout. 
It  is  (railed  the  Hagemeister  Channel.  At  eight  leagues  to  the  west 
from  Calm  I'oiut  is  a  point  which  is  without  any  name  on  Cook's  chart, 
Jind  behind  which,  according  to  Cramtschenko,  there  is  a  small  bay, 
which  affords  an  anchorage. 

Cape  Neweniiam  is  five  leagues  -  the  west  of  this  bay.  The  follow- 
ing is  Captain  Cook's  account  of  it :  '-^v,,  •  in  the  morning  of  the  IGth 
July,  1778,  the  fog  having  cleared  up,  we  loi».  l  ourselves  nearer  the 
land  than  we  expected.  Calm  Point  bore  north  72°  east,  and  a  point 
eight  leagues  from  it,  in  the  direction  of  west,  bore  north  3°  east  three 
miles  distant.  Between  these  two  points  the  coast  forms  a  bay,  in  some 
parts  of  which  the  land  was  hardly  visible  from  tk'''  n.asthead.  There 
is  also  a  bay  on  the  northwest  side  of  this  last  poiu.,  between  it  and  an 
clevr.  ;ed  promontory,  which  at  this  time  borv  i/',rth  30^  west,  sixteen 
miles  distant.  At  nine  I  sent  Lieutenant  Williamson  to  this  promon- 
^tory,  with  orders  to  laud,  and  see  what  direction  the  land  took  beyond 
it,  and  what  the  country  prodaced ;  for  from  the  ships  it  had  but  a  bar- 
ren appearance.  We  found  here  the  flood  tide  setting  strongly  to  the 
northwest  along  the  coast.  At  noon  it  was  high  water,  and  we  anchored 
in  twenty-four  fathoms,  four  leagues  distant  from  the  shore.  At  five  in 
the  afternoou,  the  tide  making  in  our  favor,  we  weighed,  and  drove 
with  it,  for  there  was  no  wind. 

"  Soon  after  Mr.  Williamson  returned,  and  reported  that  he  had 
landed  on  the  i)oint,  and,  having  climbed  the  highest  hill,  found  that 
the  furthest  part  of  the  coast  in  sight  bore  nearly  north-.  He  took  pos- 
session of  the  country  in  his  Majesty's  name,  and  left  on  the  hill  a  bottle, 
on  which  was  inscribed,  on  a  piece  of  paner,  the  names  of  the  ships, 
and  the  date  of  the  discoverj-.  The  promontory,  to  which  he  gave  the 
name  of  Cape  Keweriliam,  is  a  rocky  point  of  tolerable  height,  situated 


ALARKA    UIRKCTORY. 


131 


1 


le  had 
(I  that 
Ik  pos- 
jbottle, 
ships, 
i,ve  the 
Ituated 


in  hititiuh'  5Ho  4L",  and  in  loiiffitudo  1^7  M'.  Over,  or  within  it,  are 
two  (Ut^vatt'd  hills,  risin;;  ou(»  behind  tho  other.  Tlie  innermost,  (u  east- 
erninoNt,  is  th(^  hij;:heHt.  The  country,  as  far  as  Mr.  Williamson  eould 
see,  produces  neitluu*  tree  nor  shrub.  The  lulls  are  naked;  but  on  the 
lower  grounds  grew  grass  and  other  plants,  very  few  of  which  were  iu 
flower,  lie  saw  no  other  ivninial  but  a  <loe  and  her  fawn,  ami  a  dead 
sea  horse  or  cow  on  the  beach.  Of  these  aninuds  we  had  lately  seen  a 
great  many."* 

Otf  tlm  westernmost  point  of  the  cape  there  is  a  small  island, 
according  to  tlie  Russian  <!harts,  nanu'd  Sea-Lions'  Island.  From  Cape 
Newenham  the  coast  trends  to  the  nortliward,  as  before  stated,  and 
herc!  commence  the  sandbanks  and  shoals  lying  before  tlie  mouth  of  the 
gi'cat  river  Kuskowinu',  or  Kousko<piim,  which  <lischarges  itself  into  the 
sea  in  latitude  oOo  50',  and  which  lias  b(^en  explored  by  Lieutenants 
Chranitschenko  and  Etoline. 

To  tlu'.  northeast  of  Cape  Newenham  is  Tchagvan  Bay,  four  and  a 
half  miles  long  and  three  broad.  It  is  two  (tables'  length  in  width  at 
the  entrance,  tlie  si<ies  of  which  are  lined  with  shoals. 

The  Day  of  Good  News  is  sixteen  mihvs  to  the  north  of  Tclmgvan 
Bay.  It  was  reached  by  tlie  land  ex[)e'.lition  of  Oustugoii'  and  Korsa- 
kott't  in  1818-'JJ).  If  it  received  its  name  from  the  reports  gathered 
of  some  white-bearded  men  on  the  banks  of  the  Kvikhpak  Kiver,  it 
would  be  nior  «roperly  (tailed  the  Bay  of  False  Alarms.  It  was  exam- 
ined in  1821  by  M.  Etoliiu'.  From  Ids  observations,  the  extrenuty  of 
the  gravel  bed,  which  bounds  the  opeiung  of  the  bay  to  the  north,  is  in 
latitude  59°  'A'  9",  and  longitude  1(51°  o3'.  Cape  Newenham  bears  south 
24P  west,  twenty-four  miles  fi'om  it.  It  penetrates  eight  and  a  half 
miles  in  an  east-n(utheast  direction,  and  is  live  and  a  half  miles  broad. 
The  o])ening  is  narrowed  by  beds  of  grav<'l  to  half  ;;  mile  wide.  Its 
shores  are  surrounded  with  shoals,  so  that  there  is  only  good  anchorage 
in  the  middle,  and  that  not  too  far  in.  In  entering,  keep  on  the  north 
side.  The  establishment  of  the  port  is  near  six  and  a  quarter  hours, 
the  greatest  rise  thirteen  to  fourteen  feet.  Magnetic  variation;  in  1821, 
22°  17'  east. 

Captain  Cook  endeavored  to  i)roceed  northward  along  this  coast,  and 
penetrated  to  latitude  09°  37^',  but  was  prevented  from  getting  further 
from  the  shallowness  and  intricacy  of  the  (channel,  which,  though  he 
thought  might  have  a  northern  outlet,  yet  the  attempting  it  would  leiul 
to  great  risk  and  loss  of  time.  He  then  attempted  to  proceed  to  the 
westward,  but  was  i)revented  by  the  extensive  shoals  lying  to  the  west 
of  the  channel  he  had  entered,  and  w hich  dried  partly  at  low  water.  It 
was  not  until  he  had  returned  nearly  to  the  parallel  of  Cape  Newenham, 
by  the  same  route,  that  he  could  get  to  the  west,  clear  of  the  banks  of 

"  Cook'8  Third  Voyage,  vol,  ii,  pp.  431-2.     Captain  Liitke  says,  that  the  saih)r8  in 
this  part  call  it  the  Black  Cape,  from  its  gloomy  appearance,     {ileinoin;  p.  256.) 
t  See  Hist.  Chrouol.  do  Berg.,  part  ii,  p.  21. 


Mi 


w 


132 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


!!■■'■■ 

m 


!<-.. 


I 


U  f 


sand  and  stones  wiiich  confine  it.  To  the  northward  of  the  cape  the 
coast  is  exposed  of  hills  and  low  land,  and  appeared  to  form  several 
bays.  The  northernmost  i)art  of  the  coast  that  he  could  see  he  judged 
to  be  in  latitude  C0°,  and  seemed  to  form  a  low  point,  which  obtained  the 
name  of  Shoal  Ness. 

The  tide  of  flood  sets  to  the  north,  and  the  ebb  to  the  south.  It  rises 
and  falls,  upon  a  perpendicular,  five  or  six  feet ;  and  it  was  reckoned  that 
it  was  high  Avater,  on  the  full  and  change  days,  at  eight  o'clock.  Varia- 
tion 22°  56'  51"  east. 

NuNiAVACK  Island*  was  discovered  by  Captain  Wassilieff  in  1821. 
It  is  to  the  northwest,  and  forty  leagues  distant  from  Cape  Newenham. 
It  is  fjeventy  miles  in  extent  from  east  to  west,  and  about  half  that  in 
breadth.  Its  northeast  extremity  is  in  latitude  60°  32''  north,  longitude 
165°  30'  west;  and  its  southeast  point  is  60°  north  and  165°  3'  west.  A 
channel,  twenty  miles  in  breadth,  separates  it  from  the  continent,  which 
here  forms  a  large  cape  in  latitude  00°  44'  nortli,  longitude  165°  west, 
discovered  by  M.  Etoline,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Cape  Vancouver, 
and  that  of  Cook  to  the  strait ;  but  Admiral  Ki'iisenstern  says  that,  as 
there  is  anothei  strait  bearing  the  name  of  the  famous  circuinnavigator, 
it  will  be  better  to  name  it  Etoline  Strait,  after  the  '^fiicer  who  first 
passed  it. 

According  to  M.  Etoline,  its  northeast  extremity  lies  eighteen  or  nine- 
teen miles  to  south  82°  west  (true)  from  Cape  Vancouver.  Its  west 
extreme,  which  forms  a  moderately  high,  steep  cape,  Avas  determined  by 
M.  Chramtschenko  (who  discovered  the  island  in  the  company's  vessels 
nearly  at  the  same  time  as  M.  Etoline)  to  be  in  latitude  60°  13'.  From 
this  the  coast  on  one  side  trerids  to  eastnortheast,  and  on  the  other  to 
southeast  by  compass.  In  approa(;hing  it  from  the  west,  the  island  pre- 
sents a  level  coast,  not  high,  and  terminating  to  seaward  in  reddish  cliffs. 
In  the  center  of  the  island  some  mountains  of  moderate  height  rise  in  a 
gentle  slope.  There  is  neither  tree  nor  bush ;  but  some  v^illages  were 
seen.  There  are  several  places  where  anchorage  may  be  found  -,  bi  t  the 
best  place  is  in  the  strait  on  the  continental  side,  where  the  depth  ia  six 
to  eigJit  fathoms,  gravel  bottom. 

Cape  Avinoif,  the  southeast  limit  of  this  strait,  is  in  latitude  59°  42'. 
It  is  not  high,  but  at  a  distance  resembles  an  island.  It  is  surrounded 
by  shoals  to  the  distance  of  seven  or  eight  miles,  so  that  it  cannot  be 
approached  even  in  a  boat  within  this  distance.  This  bank  lines  the 
coast  as  far  as  Cape  Vancouver  itself. 

Captain  Coolc,  who  preceded  all  other  navigators  in  examining  the 
coast,  says: 


*  Niiniwack,  or,  as  it  is  otherwieo  spelled,  Nounivak,  or  Nonnivolc,  (Hitkr,)  was  so  named 
by  the  company's  officers,  Etoline  and  Chiamtschcnko,  who,  siniultaucously  with  Wassi" 
lieff,  discovered  it  in  1821,  after  the  native  appi'llati<m.  The  latter  called  it,  from  Ma 
ship,  Discoveiy  Island,  hut  the  first  name  is  far  the  best. 


ALASKA   DIRECTOEY. 


133 


P  42'. 
mded 
^jt  be 
b  the 


Inaincd 
lom  his 


"  1^0  land  was  seen  to  the  southward  of  Point  Shallow  Water,*  which  I 
judge  to  lie  in  the  latitude  of  63^ ;  so  that  between  thislatitude  and  Shoal 
Ness,  in  latitude  60°,  the  coast  is  entirely  unex[)lored.  Probably  it  is 
only  accessible  to  boats  or  very  small  vessels ;  or,  at  least,  if  there  be 
channels  for  large  vessels,  it  would  require  some  time  to  find  them ;  and 
I  am  of  opinion  that  they  must  be  looked  for  near  the  coast.  Froir^  the 
masthead  the  sea  within  us  appeared  to  be  checkered  with  shoals ;  the 
water  was  very  much  discolored  and  muddy,  and  considerably  fresher 
than  that  of  any  of  the  places  where  we  had  lately  anchored.  From  this 
I  inferred  that  a  considerable  river  runs  into  the  sea  in  this  unknown 
part."t 

Cape  Romanzoff,  or  RouivnANTSOFF,  was  thus  named  after  the  great 
statesman  by  M.  Chramtscheukoand  Etoline,  although  Captain  Schisch- 
mareff  )iad  already  seen  it  two  months  previously — that  is,  in  June,  1821. 
It  forms  the  western  extremity  of  that  vast  and  marshy  appendage  to 
the  American  continent  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Kvikhpak  River, 
and  on  the  south  by  Cook's  River.  M.  Etoline  determined  its  latitude  as 
61°  53' ;  M.  Chramtschenko  as  01°  50'  5"  ;  and  its  longitude  Avas  deduced 
as  166°  28'.  It  is  thus  about  eiglity-ftve  miles  northwest  from  Cape  Van- 
couver. It  is  high  and  bhift",  and  in  the  middle  of  August  was  still  partly 
covered  with  snow,  which  well  distinguishes  it  from  the  low  and  sandy 
shores  to  the  north  and  south  of  it.  It  is  entirely  free  from  wood,  like 
the  adjacent  coasts.  Seen  from  a  great  distance,  it  shows  like  islands, 
and  all  navigators  believed  it  to  bo  so  until  its  character  was  determined 
On  either  side  of  it  the  coast  trends  northeast  and  southeast. 

Between  this  cape  and  Cape  Shallow  Water  the  coast  has  never  been 
seen  by  any  navigator,  and  if  it  is  apparently  well  marked  on  the  charts 
it  is  rather  from  conjecture  a:id  from  native  report.  xUl  that  is  certainly 
known  is  that  it  is  low,  mars'^v,  with  here  and  there  capes  and  small 
hills.  At  twenty  miles  from  the  coast  a  chain  of  low  hills  rises.  There 
is  no  wood  to  be  seen  on  any  part  between  this  and  Golovnine  P>ay.  The 
whole  coast  is  intersected  by  great  and  small  rivers,  some  of  which,  as 
the  Kvikhpak  and  the  Kviklduak,  form  immense  gulfs  on  reaching  the 
sea.  The  ftrst  of  these  rivers  has  a  long  course,  and  its  banks  are  well 
peopled.  One  of  the  company's  vessels  attempted  to  ascend  it  in  1831, 
but  without  success.  Almost  all  these  rivers  communi(;ate  with  each 
other. 

The  shoals  which  line  the  space  we  have  b.ien  speaking  of,  according 
to  what  the  iidiabitants^ay,  do  not  reach  to  the  coast  itself,  but  leave 
between  a  channel  deep  enough  for  ships  ;  it  is  on'y  off'  the  moutlis  of 
the  rivers  that  it  is  broken  by  other  banks,  between  which  are  the  passes. 
This  formation  is  attributed  to  the  ices  brouglit  down  by  the  streams. 
Thus  tluMvaterw  from  the  rivers  Kvikhpak  and  Postoliak,  running  to  the 
north,  and  those  of  the  Kvikliluak  and  the  Kouimla  to  the  south,  form 
channels  on  either  side.    M.  Tebenkoff  supposes  that  gieat  depths  will 


f^ 


*  Called  by  the  natives  Asiatchak. 


t  Cook's  Third  Voyago,  vol.  ii,  pp.  489,  490. 


134 


ALASKA   DIRECITORY. 


I?'  i  I 


be  found  in  many  places  between  the  banks.  The  bottom  throughout 
the  extent  they  occupy  is  a  vast  collection  of  sand. 

Stuart's  Island  lies  in  latitude  63°  35'.  It  is  six  or  seven  leagues  in 
circuit.  Some  parts  of  it  are  of  a  middling  height;  but  in  general  it  is 
low,  with  some  rocks  lying  off  the  western  part.  The  coast  of  the  con- 
tinent is  for  the  most  part  low  land,  but  high  land  was  seen  uji  the  coun- 
try. Some  drift-wood  was  seen  upon  the  shores  both  of  the  island  and 
of  the  continent,  but  not  a  tree  was  perceived  growing  upon  either.  One 
might  anchor,  upon  occasion,  between  the  nortlieast  side  of  this  island 
and  the  continent,  in  a  depth  of  five  fathomS;  sheltered  from  westerly, 
southerly,  and  easterly  winds.  But  this  station  would  be  wlioUy  exposed 
to  the  northerly  wiiius,  the  land  in  that  tlirection  being  at  too  great  a 
distance  to  afford  nuy  security.* 

To  the  northward  of  Stuart's  Island  Captain  Cook  passed  two  small 
islands  against  the  coast,  and  as  he  ranged  it  several  people  appeared 
upon  the  shore,  and,  by  signs,  seemed  to  invite  them  to  approach. 

Besborough  Island  was  seen  at  fifteen  leagues  oft'  by  Cook,  and  though 
it  lies  six  or  seven  miles  from  the  continent,  has  no  channel  inside  it  for 
shi])s,  on  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  water;  and  to  the  northeast 
of  it  is  Chaktolimout  Bay.  Captain  Cook  anchored  in  it  September  7 
to  10,  1778.  He  say-s  it  is  but  an  indifferent  station,  being  exposed  to 
the  south  and  southwest  winds.  But  he  \vas  so  fortunate  as  to  have  the 
wind  from  the  north  and  northeast  all  the  time,  with  remarkably  fine 
weather.     Variation,  25°  4o'  east.     Dip  of  the  needle,  7()0  25'. 

Of  the  tides  it  was  observed  that  the  night  flood  rose  about  two  or 
three  feet,  and  tiuit  the  day  flood  was  hardly  perceivable.t 

Chaktolimout  Bay,  called  by  ( 'ook  Chacktoole,  is  an  open  bay  between 
Cape    .  1.  'ibigh  and  Stephens.    It  is  surrounded  by  a  low  shore,  Avhere 

J  • .  *•  iS  so  shoal  that,  as  before  mentioned,  there  is  no  passage  for 
sbi^,  ween  Besborough  Island  and  the  main,  though  it  is  six  or  seven 
miles  oft'  it.  The  southern  i)art  of  the  bay  was  examined  in  1831  by 
Lieutenant  Tebenkott",  whose  description  is  given  at  length  by  Liitke. 
The  following  is  an  extract : 

"  TkbejSKOFP  Cove. — On  the  north  side  of  Cape  Stephens,  at  eleven 
miles  to  the  east  of  the  north  extremity  of  Stuart  Island,  is  a  cove  dis- 
covered by  me  in  1831.  It  penetrates  one  and  a  half  miles  t«>  the  south- 
southwest,  and  is  closed  on  the  south  by  a  small  low  island,  on  each 
side  of  which  is  a  strait.  The  bay  is  not  more  than  a  mile  broad.  At 
its  west  extremity  are  two  islets,  very  close  to  the  coast.  As  far  as  the 
middle  of  the  bay  there  are  twenty-one  to  twenty-four  teet  water.  The 
anchorage  under  the  west  side,  opposite  the  village,  is  onlj  oxp^ ',»'i  lo 
north-northwest  and  northeast ;  but  even  with  these  winds  tin*:  e  is  no 
heavy  sea. 

"  On  the  west  side,  two-thirds  of  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  viPagi-,  the 
Euasian  company  have  recently  erected  a  small  fort. 


Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol.  ii,  p.  48S. 


t  Ibid,,  p.  485. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


135 


even 

e  dis- 

soiitli- 

eacli 

At 

as  the 

The 


"The  entrance  into  the  cove  is  not  at  all  difflcnlt.  After  reacliing 
Stuart  Island  you  can  run  parallel  with  the  coast  at  the  distance  of  a 
mile  in  not  less  than  four  fathoms  water ;  then  you  can  range  very  close 
to  the  two  islets  on  the  west  side  of  the  cove.  Coming-  from  the  north 
you  must  make  either  Besborough  or  Egg  Islands  ;  the  first  lies  north 
5°  west  from  the  cove,  and  the  second  at  nine  miles  north-northeast  by 
compass.  Egg  Island  is  smaller  and  lower  than  Besborough.  The  lati- 
tude of  the  anchorage  is  03°  28'  30",  the  longitude  101°  52'  west.  Mag- 
netic variation,  30°  cast."* 

Cape  Denbigh  is  seventeen  leagues  from  Besborough  Island,  in  a 
direction  north  27°  east.  It  is  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula,  united  to 
the  continent  by  a  low  neck  of  land,  on  each  side  of  which  the  coast 
forms  a  bay,  that  to  the  southward  being  the  Chaktolimout  Bay  just 
mentioned. 

"  The  berries  to  be  got  here  were  wild  currant  berries,  hurtle  berries, 
partridge  berries,  and  heath  berries.  I  also  went  ashore  myself,  and 
walked  over  part  of  the  peninsula.  In  several  places  there  Avas  very 
good  grass ;  and  I  hardly  saw  a  spot  on  wlii«'h  some  vegetable  \yas  not 
growing.  The  low  land  which  connects  this  peninsula  Avith  the  conti- 
nent is  full  of  narrow  creeks,  and  abounds  with  ponds  of  water,  some 
of  which  were  already  frozen  over.  There  were  a  great  many  geese  and 
bustards,  but  so  shy  that  it  was  not  possible  to  get  within  musket-shot 
of  them.  We  also  met  with  some  snipes;  and  on  the  high  ground  were 
partridges,  of  two  sorts.  When  there  was  any  wood,  mosquitoes  were 
in  plenty.  Some  of  the  officers,  who  traveled  further  than  I  did,  met 
with'u.  "^AV  .of  the  natives  of  both  sexes,  who  treated  them  with  civility. 

"I'  ij/i.eared  to  me  that  this  peninsula  must  have  been  an  island  in 
re;  i.  !^  i-:ir,s,  for  there  were  marks  of  the  sea  having  flowed  over  the 
istLr'j.  ,  .  .id  even  now  it  appeared  to  be  kept  out  by  a  bank  of  stones, 
sand,  iAt  '  wf  )d,  thrown  up  by  the  waves.  By  this  bank  it  was  evident 
that  th".  )  iL(d  was  here  encroaching  upon  the  sea,  and  it  was  easy  to 
trace  its  ',radual  formation,"t 

The  V  hole  of  the  beach  around  the  bay  seemed  to  be  covered  with 
drift- T-ood;  but  on  account  of  the  shoals,  which  extend  quite  around, 
to  Wie  distance  of  two  or  three  miles  from  the  shore,  it  is  impossible  to 
get  't  off. 

>  ,0  head  of  Norton  Sound  was  partially  explored  by  ]\Ir.  King,  one  of 
C(>,  tflficers.  From  the  heiglits,  on  the  west  side  of  the  iidet,  the  two 
coasw  were  seen  to  join,  and  the  inlet  to  terminate  in  a  small  river  or 
creek,  before  which  were  banks  of  sand  or  mud,  and  everywhere  shoal 
wat«  r.  The  land,  too,  was  low  and  swampy  for  some  distance  to  the 
northward ;  then  it  swelled  into  hills ;  and  the  complete  junction  of  those 
on  each  side  of  the  inlet  was  easily  tniced. 

From  the  elevated  spot  on  which  Mr.  King  surveyed  the  sound  he 

*  Viiyage  rtii  Sdniaviue,  Part  Naut.,  pp.  24S),  250. 
t  Captaiu  Cook,  vol.  ii,  i)p.  483,  484. 


I 


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136 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


pi' 


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II -I 


could  distinguish  many  extensive  valleys,  witli  rivers  running  through 
them,  well  wooded,  and  bounded  by  hills  of  a  gentle  ascent  and  moder- 
ate height.  One  of  these  rivers,  to  the  northwest,  appeared  to  be  con- 
siderable; and,  from  its  direction,  he  was  inclined  to  think  that  it 
emptied  itself  into  the  sea  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Some  of  his  people, 
who  penetrated  beyond  this  into  the  country,  found  the  trees  larger  the 
further  they  advanced.* 

Bald  Head  forms  the  northwestern  limit  of  this  inner  sound,  and  is 
twenty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Denbigh.  On  the  west  side  of 
Bald  Head  the  shore  forms  a  bay,  in  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  low  beach, 
where  Captain  Cook  saw  a  number  of  huts,  or  habitations  of  the  natives. 
At  about  twenty  miles  to  the  w  '  «•  n^hwest  of  this  point  the  coast  pro- 
jects out  into  a  bluff  head,  compu.^  perpendicular  strata  of  a  rock  of 
a  dark-blue  color,  mixed  with  quarti-  ad  glimmer.  There  joins  to  the 
beach  a  narrow  border  of  land,  covered,  when  Cook  landed,  (September 
10,  1778,)  with  long  grass  and  some  angelica.  Beyond  this  the  ground 
rises  abruptly.  At  the  top  of  this  elevation  they  found  a  heath  abound- 
ing with  a  variety  of  berries;  and  further  (m  the  country  was  level  aud 
thinly  covered  with  small  spruce  trees,  and  birch  and  willows  no  bigger 
than  broom  stuff.  They  observed  the  tracks  of  deer  and  foxes  on  the 
beach,  on  which  also  lay  a  great  quantity  of  drift-wood ;  and  there  was 
no  want  of  fresh  water. 

The  soundings  oft"  this  shore  are  very  shoal,  not  being  more  than  six 
fathoms  at  a  league  oft",  and  decreasing  to  three  and  under  to  the  east- 
ward. To  the  southwest  of  this  point  the  country  is  covered  with  wood, 
an  agreeable  sight  compared  with  that  to  the  north.  The  coast  cohtin- 
ues  in  a  southwest  direction  as  far  as  Cape  Darby,  where  it  turns  to  the 
north  aud  west. 

Cape  Darby  is  in  latitude  61°  21',  longitude  162°  35'  west.  Captain 
Cook  anchored  off"  it  in  a  quarter  less  five  fathoms,  half  a  league  from 
the  coast,  the  south  point  of  which  bore  south  20°  west ;  Bald  Head, 
north  00°  east  twenty-six  miles  distant ;  and  Besborough  Island,  south 
52°  east  fifteen  leagues  distant :  ''As  this  was  a  very  open  road,  and 
consequently  not  a  safe  station,  I  resolved  not  to  wait  to  complete  water, 
as  that  would  require  some  time ;  but  only  to  supply  the  ships  with 
wood,  and  then  go  to  a  more  convenient  place  in  search  of  the  other 
article.  We  took  off  the  drift-wood  that  lay  upon  the  beach.  In  the 
afternoon  I  went  ashore  aiul  walked  a  little  way  into  the  country,  which, 
when  there  was  no  wood,  was  covered  with  heath  and  other  plants,  some 
of  wbif'b  i?roducc  berries  in  abundance.  All  the  berries  were  ripe,  the 
hurtle  berries  to'o  mu(!h  so;  and  hardly  a  single  plant  was  in  liower. 
The  umlermost,  such  as  birch,  willows,  and  alders,  rendered  it  very  trou- 
blesome walking  among  the  trees,  which  were  all  spruce,  and  none  of 
them  above  six  or  eiglit  inches  in  diamet<;r.    But  we  found  some  lying 


*  Oil  tho  recent  maps  of  this  part  of  America  a  river  is  roi>reseuted  as  falling  into 
this  sound,  up  which  is  a  trading  post. 


•*'T??^"-.'«r''H*\""j?^i»,fAi  J.  j|W|!i  iipi.iw'.v  I  CTmpff!pp(^^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


137 


iptain 
from 
lead, 
south 
,  and 
ater, 
witli 
other 
n  the 
hich, 
some 
>e,  the 
lower. 
J  trou- 
one  of 
lying 

iig  into 


upon  the  beaoh  more  than  twice  this  size.    All  the  drift-wood  in  these 
northern  parts  was  fir.    I  saw  not  a  stick  of  any  other  sort."* 

GoLOVNiNE  Bay. — On  the  west  side  ol'  Cape  Darby  is  Golovnine  Bay, 
discovered  in  1821  by  Captain  Chranitschenko.  The  natives  here  term 
it  Tatchik.  Its  opening  is  limited  on  the  east  by  Cape  Darby,  and  ou 
the  west  by  Cape  Kamennoi  or  Rocky,  lying  seven  miles  west-northwest 
of  the  first.  The  latter  cape  was  so  called  from  a  flat  and  bare  rock  close 
to  it.  These  two  capes  are  high  and  steep,  but  Cape  Darby  is  the  high- 
est. .The  bay  extends  first  to  north,  and  then  to  northwest.  At  three 
miles  to  the  north  of  Cape  Kamennoi,  there  is  a  bed  of  gravel  across  it, 
running  oif  to  the  east  from  the  west  side.  At  two  miles  from  the  east 
side  of  the  bay,  which  is  opposite  to  it,  it  is  terminated  by  a  reef  of  uncov- 
ered rocks,  which,  at  a  distance,  is  extremely  like  an  artificial  pier  or 
mole,  whence  it  is  called  the  Stone  Mole,  or  Kamennaia  Pristau ;  at  the 
extremity  of  this  bed  of  gravel  is  a  temporary  or  summer  village.  On 
the  left  or  northwest  side,  in  a  valley,  is  a  forest  of  pine  trees ;  and 
beyond  the  bed  of  gravel  the  bay  extends  eight  miles  further  to  the  north- 
west, but  is  §0  shallow  as  to  be  impassable  for  boats  in  some  places. 

There  is  anchorage  in  all  parts  of  the  outer  baj^  as  far  as  the  Stone 
Mole:  bring  it  to  bear  from  west  to  west-southwest;  within  this  the 
depth  rapidly  decreases.  M.  Tebenkott'  anchored  in  three  and  a  half 
fathoms,  with  the  Stone  Mole  bearing  northwest  or  northwest  one-quarter 
north ;  Cape  Darby,  south  70o  east ;  and  Cape  Kamennoi,  south  2°  west 
by  compass.  In  tliis  situation  there  is  the  double  advantage  of  collect- 
ing more  readily  the  drift-wood  thrown  on  to  its  west  side,  and  to  water 
in  the  small  river  which  discharges  itself  into  the  west  side  of  the  gulf. 
This  point  is  in  latitude  01°  2G'  42".  The  longitude  was  assumed  to  be 
163°  8'.  The  bay  is  perfectly  clear  throughout ;  but,  as  it  is  open  to 
winds  from  the  south,  the  anchorage  is  not  without  some  danger  from 
this  cause. 

The  time  of  high  water,  the  establishment,  is  6  hours  23  minutes.  At 
full  moon  it  rises  three  feet  eight  inches. 

The  inner  bay  communicates  with  the  outer  by  a  narrow  gullet.  At 
its  head  a  large  river  discluirges  by  five  mouths,  which  makes  the  water 
of  the  bay  fresh.  This  great  river,  it  is  probable,  communicates  with  an 
oijening  in  the  mountains,  which  was  seen  to  north  40°  west  from  the 
head  of  the  bay,  and,  according  to  some  native  information  acquired  by 
M.  Chranitschenko,  there  is  riv^er  communication  all  the  way  to  the  Lake 
Imou-rouk,  in  Grantley  Harbor,  Port  Clarence,  so  that  this  part  of  the 
coast  is  in  reality  an  island.  It  took  them  five  days  to  traverse  this 
inland  navigation  in  their  baidars.t 

Aziak,  Azjiak,  or  Ayak  Island,  called  by  Cook  Sledge  Island,  on 
account  of  a  sledge  being  found  by  him  on  it,  is  ten  or  twelve  miles 
southeast  one-half  east  of  Cape  Rodney.    Its  latitude  is  there  given  as 

*  Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  479. 
tLiitke,  Voyage,  &c.,  Part  Naut.,  pp.  246,  247. 


138 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


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64°  30'.  Its  longitude  will  be  about  100°.  According  to  Cook  it  is  about 
twelve  miles  in  circumference.  M.  Tebenkoff  does  not  think  it  to  be 
more  than  a  mile.  He  describes  it  as  a  rock  rising  six  hundred  anif 
forty-two  feet  above  the  water.  A  low  point  projects  on  its  north  side ; 
and  on  the  east  a  village  stands  on  the  slope  of  the  rugged  coast.  The 
island  may  be  approached  on  all  sides.  The  anchorage  is  bad  to  the 
east;  the  bottom  is  of  large  stones.  It  is  better  to  the  n<>  h,  near  the 
point,  although  the  current  runs  here  three  knoks,  but  tiic  bottom  is 
much  better.  There  is  neither  tree  nor  shrub  on  the  island,  but  aijiong 
the  moss  a  number  of  edible  plants  may  be  found.  The  variation  is  34° 
east. 

Oukivok,  or  King's  Island  of  Captain  Cook,  is  a  rock  seven  hundred 
and  fifty-six  feet  in  height,  not  more  than  a  mile  in  circuit,  and  cliffs  on 
all  sides.  There  is  a  village,  the  houses  excavated  in  the  rocks,  on  a 
rugged  slope,  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  doubtlessly  attracted  by  the  number  of  morses  which  come 
round  the  island. 

Captain  Cook's  account  of  it  is  thus :  "  The  surface  of  tjie  ground  is 
composed  chiefly  of  large  loose  stones  that  are  in  many  places  covered 
Avith  moss  and  other  vegetables,  of  which  there  were  above  twenty  or 
thirty  different  sorts,  and  most  of  them  in  flower ;  but  I  saw  neither 
shrub  nor  tree,  either  upon  the  island  or  on  the  continent.  On  a  small 
low  spot,  near  the  beach  where  we  hmded,  was  a  good  deal  of  wild  purs- 
lain,  peas,  longwort,  &c.,  some  of  which  we  took  on  board  for  the  pot. 
We  saw  one  fox,  a  few  plovers,  and  some  other  small  birds ;  and  we  met 
with  some  decayed  huts  that  were  partly  built  below  ground.  People 
had  lately  been  on  the  island,  and  it  is  pretty  clear  that  thej^  frequently 
visit  it  for  some  ])urpose  or  other,  as  there  was  a  beaten  path  from  the  one 
end  to  the  other.  We  found,  a  little  vray  from  the  shore  where  we 
landed,  a  sledge,  which  occasioned  this  name  being  given  to  the  island."* 

Point  Eodney  is  a  low  point  to  the  northwest  one-half  west  of  Sledge 
Island.  "  The  island  before  us,  which  we  supjiosed  to  be  the  continent 
of  America,  appeared  low  next  the  sea,  but  inland  it  swelled  into  hills, 
which  rise  one  behind  another  to  a  considerable  height.  It  had  a 
greenish  hue,  but  seemed  destitute  of  wood,  and  free  from  snow.  While 
we  lay  at  anchor  we  found  that  the  flood  tide  came  from  the  east,  and 
set  to  the  west,  till  between  10  and  11  o'clock ;  the  stream  set  to  the 
esistward,  and  the  water  fell  three  feet.  The  flood  ran  both  stronger 
and  longer  than  the  ebb,  from  which  I  concluded  that,  besides  the  tide, 
there  was  a  westerly  current."  t 

Point  Rodney  being  low,  and  the  water  shallow,  it  is  difficult  to  land. 
From  the  bea<}h  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  there  is  a  plain  about  two 
miles  wide,  covered  with  lichens  and  grass,  upon  which  Captain  Beechey 
observed  several  herds  of  reindeer  feeding ;  but  the  comnmnication  is 


*  Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  441. 


t  Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  440. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


139 


in  places  interrupted  by  nnrrow  lakes,  which  extend  several  miles  along 
the  coast.  Upon  the  beach  is  a  j>Teater  abundance  of  drift-wood  than 
is  found  on  other  parts  of  the  coast.  Several  indications  of  the 
presence  of  iiduibitants  were  found.  About  two  miles  from  the  coast 
the  country  becomes  mountainous,  and  far  inland  rises  to  peaked  hills 
of  great  height,  covered  with  perennial  snow. 

Port  Clarence,  Avliich  was  explored  and  named  by  Captain  Beechey, 
August,  1827,*  is  live  leagues  to  the  northward  of  Point  Rodney.  It 
was  passed  unnoticed  by  Cook  in  his  passage  through  the  strait,  but 
this  is  not  surprising,  from  the  character  of  the  land  forming  it. 

Poir,  Spencer,  thf3  north  extremity  of  a  low  spit  of  land  projecting 
about  ten  miles  from  the  coast,  forms  the  southern  protection  of  ^his 
spacious  harbor.  It  here  forms  a  right  angle,  having  a  channel  about 
two  miles  wide  between  its  extremity  and  the  northern  shore.  The 
southern  side  of  Port  Clarence  is  a  low  diluvial  formation,  covered  with 
grass,  and  intersected  by  narrow  channels  and  lakes.  It  projects  from 
a  range  of  cliffs  which  appear  to  have  been  once  upon  the  coast,  and, 
sweeping  round,  terminates  in  the  low  shingly  point  before  named,  Point 
Spencer.  In  one  place  this  point  is  so  narrow  and  low  that  in  a  heavy 
gale  of  wind  the  sea  must  almost  inundate  it ;  to  the  northward,  how- 
ever, it  becomes  wider  and  higher,  and  by  the  remains  of  some  yourts 
upon  it,  has  at  one  time  been  the  residence  of  Estpiimaux.  Like  the 
land  just  described,  it  is  intersected  with  lakes,  some  of  which  rise  and 
fall  with  the  tide,  and  is  covered,  though  scantily,  with  a  coarse  grass. 
Near  Point  Spencer  the  beach  has  been  forced  up,  by  some  extraordi- 
nary pressure,  into  ridges,  of  which  the  outer  one,  ten  or  twelve  feet 
above  the  sea,  is  the  highest.  Upon  and  about  these  ridges  there  was 
a  great  quantity  of  drift  timber,  but  more  ou  the  inner  side  of  the  point 
than  on  the  outer. 

The  northern  and  eastern  shores  of  Port  Clarence  slope  from  the 
mountains  to  the  sea,  and  are  occasionally  terminated  by  cliffs.  The 
soil  is  covered  with  a  thick  coating  of  moss,  among  which  are  a  few 
plants.  The  valleys  and  hollows  are  all  tilled  with  dwarf  willow  or 
birch. 

Grantley  Harbor  forms  an  inner  harbor  to  the  extensive  and  excel- 
lent bay  just  desci'ibed.  The  channel  into  it  from  the  outer  harbor  is 
extremely  narrow,  the  entrance  being  contracted  by  two  sandy  spits; 
but  the  water  is  deep,  and  in  one  part  there  is  not  less  than  twelve 
fathoms.  At  the  upper  end  of  tlu  harbor  is  a  second  strait,  about 
three  hundred  yards  in  Avidth,  formed  between  steep  cliflfs,  but  this 
channel,  too,  is  contracted  by  sandy  points.  This  strait  probably  com- 
municates with  a  large  inland  lake  (Imou  Eouk,)  as  described  by  the 
Esquimaux,  as  a  largo  body  of  nearly  fresh  water  made  its  exit  through 
it.     At  the  entrance  of  the  strait,  called  Toshook  by  the  natives, 

*  Port  Clarence  was  for  a  loug  time  previously  known  to  the  '^  .^oiuns  as  Kaviayak 
Bay,  but  they  did  not  know  that  it  contained  its  excellent  port. — Liitke. 


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140 


AXASKA  DIRECTORY. 


Beechoiy  found  an  Esquimaux  village,  and  upon  the  nortliem  and 
eastern  parts  of  the  harbor  there  were  two  others. 

There  are  very  few  natives  in  the  outer  harbor.  On  the  northern  side 
there  is  a  village  of  yourts,  to  which  the  inhabitants  apparently  only 
resorted  in  the  winter.  Some  Esquimaux  fishermen,  upon  the  low 
point  of  the  inner  harbor,  had  been  very  successful. 

"  These  two  ports,"  says  Captain  Beechey,  "situated  so  near  Behring'H 
Strait,  may,  at  some  future  time,  be  of  great  importance  to  navigation, 
as  they  will  be  found  particularly  useful  by  vessels  which  may  not  wish 
to  pass  the  strait  in  bad  weather.  To  the  outer  harbor,  which  for  con- 
venience and  security  surpasses  any  other  near  Behring's  Strait  with 
which  we  are  acquainted,  I  attached  the  name  of  Port  Clarence,  in 
honor  of  his  Most  Gracious  Majesty  then  Duke  of  Clarence.  To  the 
inner,  which  is  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  repair,  and  is  sufiiciently 
deep  to  receive  a  frigate,  provided  she  lands  her  guns,  which  can  be 
conveniently  done  upon  the  sand  spit  at  the  entrance,  I  gave  the  name 
of  Grantley  Harbor,  in  complimi    i  to  Lord  Grantley."* 

Point  Spencer  is  in  latitude  65°  IG'  40",  h)nj,-nide  100°  47'  50"  west; 
variation,  25°  36'  east.  High  water,  fidl  anu  change,  in  the  port, 
4  hours  25  minutes. 

Point  Jackson,  named,  like  the  last,  from  a  distinguished  naval  officer, 
forms  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Clarence.  Off  it  the  water 
is  more  shallow  than  ii  'lal. 

Cape  York,  named  ifter  the  Duke  of  York,  is  a  bold  promontory, 
and  near  it  there  is  probably  a  river,  called  Youj)-nut  by  the  natives. 
From  hence  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  the  coast  is  of  quit€  a  different 
character  to  that  to  the  northward  of  the  latter,  being  bounded  by  steep, 
rocky  cliffs,  and  broken  by  deep  valleys,  while  the  other  is  low,  swampy 
ground. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  is  the  westernmost  extreme  of  America.  This 
celebrated  promontory  is  the  western  termination  of  a  peaked  mountain, 
which,  being  connected  with  the  main  by  low  ground  at  a  distance,  has 
the  appearance  of  being  isolated.  The  promontory  is  bold,  and  remark- 
able by  a  number  of  ragged  points  and  large  fragments  of  rock  lying 
upon  the  ridge  which  connects  the  cape  with  the  peak.  About  a  mile 
to  the  northward  of  the  cape  some  low  land  begins  to  project  from  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  taking  first  a  northerly  and  then  a  northeasterly 
direction  to  Schischmaretf  Inlet.  Oft'  this  point  is  a  dangerous  shoal, 
upon  which  the  sea  breaks  heavily.  The  natives  have  a  village  upon 
the  low  land  near  the  cape,  called  Eidannoo,  and  another  island  called 
King-a-ghe,  which  appears  to  be  a  considerable  mart;  and  as  they  gen- 
erally select  the  mouths  of  rivers  for  their  residence,  it  is  not  improbable 
that  a  stream  may  here  empty  itself  into  the  sea,  which,  meeting  the 
current  through  the  strait,  may  occasion  the  shoal.  About  fourteen 
miles  inland  from  Eidannoo  there  is  a  remarkable  conical  hill,  often  vis 

*  *  Voyage  of  the  Blossom,  p.  543. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


141 


has 
ark- 


Imile 
the 


loal, 

Jiipon 

lalled 

gen- 

)able 

the 

i'teeii 

vis 


ble  when  the  mountain  tops  ate  covered,  whidi,  being  well  fixed,  will  be 
found  usolnl  at  such  times  by  ships  passing  through  the  strait.  Twelve 
miles  further  inland  the  country  becomes  mountainous,  and  is  remarka- 
ble for  its  sharp  ridges.  The  altitude  of  one  of  the  peaks,  which  is  nearly 
the  highest  in  the  range,  is  i2,59()  feet.  These  mountains  being  covered 
with  snow  when  the  Blossom  was  here,  (August,  1827,)  gave  the  country 
a  very  wintry  aspect. 

Off  the  cape  is  a  \  'iry  dangerous  shoal,  stretching  to  the  nortl  'ast 
from  it.  It  takes  the  direction  of  the  current,  and  is  extremely  danger- 
ous, in  consequence  of  the  water  shoaling  so  suddei.ly  and  having  deep 
water  within  it,  by  which  a  ship  coming  from  the  northward  may  be  led 
down  between  the  shoal  and  the  land  without  any  suspicion  of  her  dan- 
ger. Though  the  Blossom  found  nothing  less  than  tweni-y-seven  feet 
water,  as  near  as  the  soundings  could  be  ascertained  in  so  high  a  sea, 
yet,  from  the  appearance  of  the  breakers  outside  the  place  where  she 
crossed,  the  depth  is  probably  less.  It  is  lemarkable  that  this  spit  of 
sand,  extending  so  far  as  it  does  from  the  land,  should  have  escaped  the 
observation  of  the  Russians  as  well  as  of  our  countrymen.  Cook,  in  his 
chart,  marks  five  fathoms  close  off  the  cape,  and  Kotzebue  three  fathoms ; 
but  this  spit  .appeared  to  extend  six  or  seven  miles  from  it.  The  spit 
may  be  extending  rapidly. 

The  DiOMEDE  Islands  are  three  small  islands  occupying  a  conspicu- 
ous geographical  position,  as  they  lie  between  the  nearest  points  of  the 
two  great  continents  of  Asia  and  America,  being  thus  in  the  very  nar- 
rowest portion  of  Behring's  Strait. 

They  have  been  the  subject  of  some  slight  dispute  as  to  their  real 
number.  Our  celebrated  Captain  Cook  places  three  islands  here  in  the 
middle  of  the  strait.  Kotzebue  imagined  that  he  saw  a  fourth,  which, 
mast  either  have  becTi  overlooked  by  our  luivigators.  Cook  and  Clerke,  or 
that  it  had  been  subsequently  laised  by  an  earthquake;  but  this  state- 
ment was  received  with  some  doubt,  even  by  the  Russians  themselves. 
The  subject  was  set  at  rest  by  Captain  Beechey,  in  tht  Blossom,  in 
182G.    They  are  three  in  number. 

The  southeastern  of  the  three  islands  is  a  high,  square  rock,  named  by 
Captain  Beechey  the  Fairway  Rock,  and  by  the  native  who  drew  a  chart 
of  this  region,  C^o-ghe-e-ak.  It  is  an  excellent  guide  to  the  eastern  chan- 
nel, which  is  the  widest  and  best. 

The  central  island  was  named  after  the  admiral,  Krusenstern  Island, 
and  by  the  above-mentioned  authority,  Igna-look.  It  is  an  island  with 
per])endicular  cliffs  and  a  flat  surface. 

The  third,  or  northwestern  one,  which  is  the  largest,  was  named  by 
Captain  Beechey,  after  Kotzebue's  supi)osed  discovery,  Ratmanoff  Island, 
and  Noo-nar-book  by  the  native.  It  is  three  miles  long,  high  to  south- 
ward, and  terminates,  in  the  opposite  direction,  in  low  rocky  cliffs,  with 
small  rocky  points  oft'  them. 

East  Cape,  in  almost  every  direction,  is  so  like  an  island  that  Captain 


«:: 


I 


1^V'"^"V'"  '■■'■'  "'" 


If**' 


142 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


|l:i 


lit  -f 
It'.    . 


iilii 


w-  I 


Beecliey  had  no  doubt  it  was  the  occasion  of  the  mistake  committed  by 
the  liussian  navigator.* 

From  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  the  coast  trends  to  the  northward,  the 
water  being  sliaUow  just  to  the  nortli  of  it,  and  from  it  there  extends  a 
shoal  for  eight  or  ten  miles,  a  tongue  of  sand  and  stones,  perhaps  the 
effect  of  current,  on  which  the  Blossom  was  nearly  lost  in  1827.  Out- 
side it  the  bottom  is  mud,  but  within  the  spit  the  water  deepens  and 
again  changes  to  mud,  and  having  ten  and  a  half  fathoms  within  two 
and  a  half  miles  of  the  coast. 

The  coast  itself  is  low,  with  a  ridge  of  sand  extending  along  it,  on 
which  are  or  were  some  Esquimaux  habitations.  The  land  behind  is 
marshy  in  the  summer,  and  extends,  without  anything  remarkable  for 
thirty-five  miles,  to  the  entrance  of  Schischmarett"  Inlet. 

SciiiscHMAREFF  Inlet  was  soiuimed  by  Kotzebue.  The  width  between 
the  opening.  Cape  Lowenstern  being  the  northeast  point,  is  ten  miles, 
and  the  inlet  itst^lf  extends  to  the  east-southeast  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  It  has  not  been  explored,  but  it  has  been  surmised  that  it  may 
be  part  of  the  mouth  of  a  very  large  river,  the  other  branches  of  which 
debouch  in  the  Bay  of  Good  Hope  or  Kotzebue  Sound.  But  this  is  mere 
conjecture,  and  the  Esquimaux  give  no  indication  of  such  a  fact. 

Sarytscheff  Island  lies  immediately  before  its  entrance.  This  island 
is  low  and  sandy,  and  is  apparently  joined  underwater  to  the  southward 
to  the  strip  of  sand  which  fronts  the  coast  extending  towards  Cape  Prince 
of  AVales.  Captain  Beechey  noticed  upon  it  a  consi<lerable  village  of 
yourts,  the  largest  that  he  had  then  met  with,  coming  from  the  south- 
ward. They  appeared  to  prefer  having  their  dwellings  u])on  this  sandy 
foundation  to  the  mainland,  i)robably  on  account  of  the  latter  being 
swampy,  which  is  the  case  everywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  this  inlet  and 
Kotzebue  Sound.  Mountains  were  seen  at  the  back  of  the  Sehischmareft" 
Inlet,  but  tlie  coast  was  not  visible — ])robably  it  is  low. 

The  channel  into  this  inlet,  on  the  northern  side  of  Sarytcheff  Island, 
is  extremely  narrow  and  intricate,  find  the  space  is  strewed  with  shoals.t 

The  coast  to  the  northwest  is  low  and  swampy,  with  small  lakes  inland. 
The  ridge  of  sand  continues  along  the  coast  to  Cape  Espenburg,  and  then 
terminates. 

Kotzebue  Sound. — The  land  on  the  south  side  of  the  sound,  as  far 
as  the  Bay  of  Good  Hope,  is  higher,  more  rocky,  and  of  a  bolder  charac- 
ter than  the  opposite  shore,  though  it  still  resembles  it  in  its  swampy, 
superficial  covering,  and  in  the  occurrence  of  lakes  wherever  the  land  is 
flat.  Under  water,  also,  it  has  a  bolder  character  thau  the  northeru 
side,  and  has  soundings  of  four  and  five  fathoms  quite  close  to  the 
promontories.  There  are  two  or  three  places  under  these  headlands 
which,  in  case  of  necessity,  will  afford  shelter  to  boats,  but  each  with  a 
particular  wind  only;  and  in  resorting  thither  the  direction  of  the  wind 
and  the  side  of  the  promontory  must  be  taken  into  consideration. 


Voyage  of  the  Blossom,  vol.  i,  p.  246. 


t  Kotzebue. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


143 


the 


being 
et  ami 
iimireff 

slaiul, 

shoals.t 

iiilaiitl. 

(I  then 

as  far 
cUarac- 
wampy, 

land  is 
orthern 

to  the 
adhmds 
1  with  a 
he  wind 
1. 


Cape  Espenbitrg  is  abont  thirty  miles  from  achischmaroflF  Inlet.  It 
is  formed  by  the  sea  to  the  sonthward  of  it  into  a  narrow  strip  of  land, 
upon  whieh  are  some  high  sand-hills.  Ca[)tain  lieeehey  fonnd  a  great 
many  poles  i)laeed  erect  on  it,  and  the  traces  of  Escpiimanx,  thongli  then 
qnite  deserted.  The  beach  was  coniposed  i)rin('ipally  of  <larkcolored 
volcanic  sand,  and  strewed  with  dead  shells;  the  sand-hills  partly  covered 
with  grass  and  shrubs  producing  berries.  Upon  the  peninsula,  also,  are 
some  lakes,  frequentcnl  by  wild  fowl. 

The  Bay  of  Good  Hope  forms  the  southwest  angle  of  Kotzebue 
Sound.  In  its  southern  part  a  river  enters,  which  the  Es(piimaux  say 
extends  inland  five  days'  journey  for  their  baidars,  but  its  entrance  is 
too  shallow  for  boats.  To  the  eastward  of  this  river  the  (!oast  is  low, 
swam])y,  and  intersected  by  lakes  and  rivers.  Here  a  range  of  rounded 
hills,  which  bound  the  southern  part  of  the  sound,  branch  off  inland  to 
the  west,  and  a  distant  range  of  a  totally  ditterent  character  rises  over  the 
vast  plain  that  we  have  been  describing  as  extending  to  Cape  Espen- 
burg.  • 

To  the  eastward  of  this  low  coast  commencet^  a  series  of  low  points, 
with  small  bays  between  them  ;  and  these  points  are  singular  as  attbrd- 
ing  volcanic  rocks  and  lava.  Upon  them,  as  well  as  upon  the  shores  of 
the  bay,  large  blocks  of  vesicular  and  other  lava  are  accumulated.  The 
country  here  slopes  gradually  from  some  hills  to  the  beach,  and  is  so 
well  overgrown  that  Captain  Beechcy  could  not  examine  its  substrata; 
but  they  did  not,  in  outward  formation,  exhibit  indication  of  volcanic 
agency. 

Gull  Ilead,  a  narrow  rocky  peninsula,  stretching  a  mile  into  the  sea,  is 
four  miles  east  of  these  points.  It  is  principally  composed  of  slaty  lime- 
stone, containing  particles  of  talc  in  larger  or  smaller  (piantities  as  it  is 
elevated  above  or  on  a  level  with  the  sea,  but  without  any  visible  stratifi- 
cation. This  part  of  the  coast  is  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of 
view,  as  being  the  only  part  of  the  sound  where  volcanic  rocks  occur. 

Cape  Deceii)t,  a  bold  promontory,  with  a  conspicuous  rock  otl  \'\  so 
named  by  Kotzebue,  is  three  miles  beyond  Gull  Head.  It  is  also  of  com- 
pact limestone,  devoid  of  any  visible  stratification.  To  the  eastward  of 
it,  in  the  first  and  second  bays,  are  the  mouths  of  two  iivevs,  at  which 
Captain  lieeehey  found  several  spars  and  logs  of  drift-wood  })laced  erect, 
showing  that  the  natives  had  occupied  these  stations  in  the  summer  for 
the  purpose  of  catching  fish,  but  they  were  then  deserted  Both  the 
rivers  had  bars  across  their  entrances,  preventing  access  for  a  boat. 
This  part  of  the  sound  appears  to  have  but  few  temptations  to  the 
Escpiimaux,  as  Captain  Bee(;hey  only  saw  two  parties  on  it,  and  they 
were  on  an  excursicn;  and  at  two  idaces  were  some  deserted  yourts, 
unworthy  of  notice. 

Si)afarief  Bay,  at  the  southeast  angle  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  commences 
about  nine  miles  east  of  Cape  Deceipt.  It  terminates  to  the  south  in  a 
small  creek,  navigable  a  very  short  distance,  and  that  by  boats  only.    Its 


U-i 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


wliole  oxtcit  inland  ia  ftlxmt  throo  miles,  when  it  separates  into  a  num- 
ber of  snuill  l)ran(!lieH con>mMnicatinj»"  with  sev  lal  lakes,  which  in  spring 
no  doubt  dischar}?e  a  huf^e  quantity  of  fresh  water  into  the  sound; 
though  at  the  dry  season  of  the  year  (Se[)tember)  they  were  of  incon- 
siderable size.  A  little  to  the  northward  of  the  creek  there  is  a  pointed 
hill,  just  six  hundred  and  forty  t'c\  t  high  by  measurement,  from  whence 
the  surrounding  country  is  visible ;  it  is  all  covered,  except  the  summit 
of  this  hill,  with  a  dt  ep  swampy  moss. 

The  beach  was  strewed  with  a  great  quantity  of  drift-wood,  some  in  a 
very  perfect  state ;  they  were  all  pine  trees  except  one,  api)arently  a 
silver  birch.  From  the  mouth  of  this  ri  .er  the  ooast  treruls  nearly  north 
by  comi)ass,  ab»)ut  eight  miles,  when  it  tuins  to  the  eastward,  forming 
tlie  southern  side  of  Eschscholtz  Bay. 

EscHSCHOLTZ  BAY  is  a  deep  indentation  of  the  soutlieast  shore  of 
Kotzebue  Sound,  extending  for  ten  miles  to  the  eastward  within  its 
entrance,  which  is  formed  by  Chamisso  Island  and  Ohoris  Peninsula, 
extending  from  the  north  shore. 

The  land  about  this  part  of  the  sound  is  generally  characterized  by 
rounded  hills  from  about  six  huiulred  feet  to  one  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea,  with  small  lakes  and  rivers ;  its  surface  is  rent  into  deep  furrows, 
which,  until  a  very  late  period  in  the  summer,  were  filled  with  water, 
and  were  covered  with  a  liiick  swampy  moss,  and  in  some  places  with 
long  grass  or  bushes ;  they  are  extremely  tedious  to  traverse  on  foot. 
Early  in  the  s-immer  myriads  of  mosquitoes  infest  this  swampy  shore, 
and  almost  picclule  the  possibility  of  continuing  any  pursuit:  but  in 
August  they  begin  to  die  otf,  and  soon  afterwards  entirely  disappear. 

Almost  the  extreme  area  of  Eschscholtz  Bay  within  its  entrance  is 
very  shallow,  so  that  a  ship  cannot  advance  far  beyond  this  jKiint,  and 
is  the  north  extreme  part  of  the  bay.  The  shore  is  of  difficult  access  on 
account  of  long  muddy  flats  extending  into  the  bay,  and  at  low  water 
diying  in  some  places  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  beach.  From  the 
dettruction  of  the  earthy  cliffs  surrounding  it,  by  the  summer  thawing 
of  the  ice,  the  bay  is  most  probably  fast  tilling  up,  and  at  no  very  dis- 
tant period  will  be  left  scarcely  navigable  for  boats. 

It  is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  ba.>  that  a  point  very  interesting  to  natu- 
ralists occurs,  which  received  much  attention  from  European  savans  at 
the  time  of  its  exj^loration  by  Kotzebue,  and  therefore  was  more  closely 
examined  by  Captain  Beechey,  whose  own  words  v^^ill  afford  the  best 
description  of  the  part  in  question : 

"  While  the  duties  of  the  ship  were  being  forwarded  under  my  first 
lieutenant,  Mr.  Peard,  I  took  the  opportunity  to  visit  the  extraordinary 
ice  formations  in  Eschscholtz  Bay,  mentioned  by  Kotzebue  as  '  being 
covered  witn  a  soil  half  a  foot  thick,  producing  the  most  luxuriant  grass,' 
and  containing  abundance  of  mammoth  bones.  We  stiiled  up  the  bay, 
which  was  extremely  shallow,  and  landed  at  a  deserted  vdlag'^  on  a  low 
sandy  point,  where  Kotzebue  bivouacked  when  he  visited  the  place,  and 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


145 


nnin- 

Dund; 
incon- 
>iiited 
hence 
iiumit 

le  ill  a 

jntly  a 

north 

niuing 

lore  of 
hin  its 
linsuhi, 

zed  by 
,  above 
arrows, 
i  water, 
les  with 
on  foot, 
y  shore, 

but  in 
pear, 
lance  is 
int,  and 
icesa  on 
w  water 
"om  the 
thawing 

'ery  dis- 

to  natu- 
Eivans  at 
e  closely 
he  best 

my  first 
jordiuary 
'  being 
lit  grass,' 
1  the  bay. 
Ion  a  low 
face,  and 


to  which  r  aftorwiirdN  gnvo  the  nnme  of  Elephant  Pt)hit,  from  the  bones 
of  tluit  animal  being  t'oniid  near  it. 

*'  The  cliils  in  whicli  ti:is  singuhir  formation  was  discovered  begin  near 
this  point,  and  extend  westward  nearly  in  a  straight  line  to  a  ro<iky  <'litl' 
of  primitive  formation  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  whence  the  coast  takes 
an  abrujjt  turn  to  the  southward.  The  clitfs  nre  from  twenty  to  eighty 
feet  in  height,  and  rise  inland  to  a  rounded  I'lr  ge  of  liills  between  four 
and  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  In  some  places  they  |)resent  a 
perpendicular  front  to  the  northward;  in  others  a  slightly  inclined  sur- 
face; and  are  occasionally  intersected  by  valleys  and  water-courses, 
generally  overgrown  by  low  bushes.  Opposite  eadi  of  these  valleys 
there  is  a  projecting  Hat  piece  of  ground,  consisting  of  the  nmterials  that 
have  been  washed  down  the  ravine,  where  the  only  good  landing  for 
boats  is  attbr<led.  The  soil  of  the  clitt's  is  a  bluish-colored  mud,  for  the 
most  part  covered  with  nuid  and  long  grass,  full  of  deep  furrows,  gene- 
rally filled  with  water  or  frozen  snow.  Mud,  in  a  frozen  state,  forms 
the  surfac^e  of  the  clitfs  in  some  parts;  in  others  the  ock  ajipears  with 
the  uuid  above  it,  or  sometimes  with  a  bank  half  way  up  it,  as  if  the 
superstratum  had  gradually  slid  down  and  accunuilated  against  the  cliff. 
By  the  large  rents  near  the  edges  of  the  mud  cliffs  they  appear  to  be 
breaking  away,  and  contributing  «laily  to  diminish  the  dei)th  of  water  in 
the  bay.''* 

The  appearance  noticed  by  Kotzebue,  so  nearly  resembling  an  iceberg 
capped  with  earth  and  grass,  was  found  to  be  occasioned  either  by  the 
water  from  the  tiiawing  ice  or  snow  trickling  down  the  surface  of  the 
earthy  cliff"  from  above,  or  by  the  snow  being  banked  up  against  the 
cliff",  or  collected  in  hollows  in  the  winter,  and  afterwards  converted  into 
ice  by  the  ]>artial  thawings  and  freezings;  the  ui)per  soil  becoming 
loosened  by  th<^  thaw  is  itself  ultimately  projected  over  the  edge  of  the 
cliff",  and  thus  gave  rise  to  the  deceptive  apjiearance  which  misled  the 
Russian  officers.    This  fact  was  fully  established  by  Oai»tain  Becchey. 

Elephant  Toint,  before  alluded  to,  is  a  low  sandy  projection  from  the 
interesting  ditts  above  described,  and  was  named  thus  from  the  fossi^ 
remains  discovered  in  abundance  near  it,  and  that  of  the  animal  from 
which  it  is  called  among  the  nund»er.  Some  of  these  remains  have  been 
de])osited  in  the  British  Museum,  adding  one  item  to  the  wonders  of 
geology.  They  are  described  in  the  appendix  to  the  voyage  of  the 
Blossom. 

BucKLAND  River,  so  named  in  compliment  to  the  learned  and  excel- 
lent professor,  enters  Eschscholtz  Bay  about  three  miles  east  of  Elephant 
Point.  The  wi<ltli  of  it  here  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles;  but  this 
space  is  broken  into  narrow  and  intricate  channels  by  banks,  some  dry, 
others  partly  st).  The  stream,  at  the  time  of  Captain  Beechey's  visit, 
(September,  1820,)  passed  rapidly  between  them,  and  at  an  early,  period 


Voyage  of  the  Blossom,  vol.  i,  pp.  257,  258. 


10  AD 


a^m 


14f5 


ALASKA   DTBECTORY. 


It      ^ 


U  'I 

i, 
I    I 
i. 

■7i 


a 


. 


l-rl    t 


It  -• 


liL..  i 


of  the  seaf^on  a  considerable  body  of  water  must;  bo  poured  into  the 
sound,  tbouglj  from  tlie  comparative  width  of  the  ehannc^ls  the  current 
in  the  latter  in  not  nuich  felt.  The  sihove  around  is  flat,  bri>keu  by  seve- 
ral iiik  !8,  in  which  there  were  a  great  many  wild  fowl. 

The  country  oi:  the  northern  side  of  Eschscholtz  Bay  was  found  to  be 
almost  impassable  from  swamp,  in  September,  1820,  notwithstanding 
that  the  season  was  so  far  advanced.  It  seeined  as  if  the  peaty  covering 
obstructed  the  drainage,  which  was  kept  on  the  surface  by  the  frozen 
subsoil.  The  ])ower  of  the  sun  was  great,  the  theimometer  rising  to  (i2° 
in  the  shade.  On  the  side  {)f  the  hill  that  sloped  to  the  southward  the 
willow  and  birch  grew  to  the  height  of  eighteen  feet,  and  formed  so 
dense  a  wood  that  it  could  not  be  penetrated.  The  trees  bordering  on 
the  beech  were  <piite  dead,  apparently  in  convse(}U(ince  of  their  bark  hav- 
ing been  rubbed  through  by  the  ice,  which  had  been  formed  about  nine 
feet  above  high-water  nuirk,  and  had  left  a  steep  ridge  of  sand  and  shin- 
gles. The  berries  (in  September)  were  in  great  perfection  and  abund- 
ance, and  proved  a  most  agre<nible  addition  to  the  salt  <liet  of  the  seamen. 

The  cliffs  to  the  east  of  Choris  Penhisula  are  composed  of  a  green- 
colored  mica  slate,  in  which  the  mica  predominates,  and  containing 
garnets,  &c. 

Choris  Peninsula  forms  the  western  side  of  the  bay,  and  extends  a 
little  to  the  east  of  south,  true,  for  about  three  miles,  antl  is  separated 
into  two  {jortions  by  a  sandy  neck.  Olf  its  south  end  shoal  water 
extends  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  this  shallow  depth  continues 
eastward  and  lilis  the  bay.  Its  southwest  extremity  was  nan)ed  Point 
Garnet,  and  at  its  southeast  portion  are  some  lakes  on  the  low  shore, 
where  fresh  water  may  be  procured  towards  the  end  of  the  season,  when 
the  Chamisso  sj)rings  are  exhausted. 

The  wati^iiug  place  at  Chamisso  Island  was  on  the  northeast  side,  and 
also  at  the  east  end.  In  July  it  was  abundant,  but  at  the  (Uid  of  August, 
upon  its  being  revisited  for  this  8upi)ly,  it  was  fouml  that  there  was  not 
a  drop  to  be  had,  in  consequence  of  the  streams  at  which  they  had 
formerly  lilled  the  casks  being  derived  from  beds  of  thawing  ice  and 
snow,  wiiich  were  then  entirely  dissolved. 

The  eastern  side  of  Choris  Peninsula  was  examined,  in  1849,  by  Cap- 
tain Kellett,  royal  navy,  for  a  wintering  station  for  luu-  ^Majesty's  ship 
Plover.  He  found  shoal  water  in  all  of  them,  shoaling  gradually  north- 
erly toward  the  samly  peninsula.  lie  was  of  opinion  that  if  a  vessel 
did  wiiuer  there  .he  would  be  greatly  exi)osed,  and  probably,  on  the 
breaking  np  ot  the  ice,  be  either  carried  into  the  .stiaits  or  shoved  up 
on  to  the  iK'ach. 

Upon  a  sandy  bay  on  the  western  side  of  the  i)eninsula  a  few  Esqui 
maux  were  seen.     In  this  bay  they  caught  enougli  salmon  and  other  lish 
to  give  an  accci)table  nu'al  to  the  whole  ship's  company ;  subsequent 
trials,  however,  were  unsuccessfnl. 

Chazviisso  lifLAND,  named  after  the  naturalist  wbo  acconq)auied  Kot- 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


147 


Hi  Kot- 


zelme,  is  two  miles  south  of  tbeoxtromitv  of  Clioris  IVninsula,  and  in  t.-  ? 
space  betwoeii  theui  is  the  anchorage.  The  island  is  about  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  in  length  nortiiwest  und  southeast,  by  half  that  breadtli.  The 
highest  part  of  it,  whidi  is  two  hundred  and  thirty-one  feet  above  the 
sea,  is  stt^ep,  except  to  the  eastward,  where  it  ends  in  a  low  sandy  i)oint, 
upon  which  were  the  remains  of  some  Es(iuiinaux  habitations.*  It  has 
the  same  owanipy  covering  as  the  land  previously  <lescri  bed,  from  whicb, 
until  late  in  the  sunuuer,  several  streams  descend,  and  are  very  (m>u- 
venient  for  procuring  water.  Detached  from  Chamisso  there  is  a  steep 
rock,  named,  by  way  of  distinction,  Pultin  Island,  couiposed  of  moider- 
ing  granite,  whi(;h  has  broken  away  in  sucli  a  manner  that  the  remaining 
part  assumes  the  form  of  a  tow(?r.  During  the  period  of  incubation  of 
the  a(iuatic  birds  evexy  liole  and  projecting  crag  on  the  sides  of  this  rock 
are  occupied  by  them.  Its  shores  resound  with  the  chorus  of  thousands 
of  the  feathery  trilie,  and  its  surface  presents  a  curiou.sly  mottled  carpet 
of  brown,  black,  and  white;,  t  The  island  is  accessible  in  almost  every 
quarter,  and  its  center  is  in  latitude  (HP  13'  11"  north,  longitiule  1(51° 
46'  west.  Variation,  31°  10'  east ;  higli  water,  full  and  change,  at  the 
the  anchorage,  4  hours  42  minutes. 

The  coast  northward  from  Choris  Peninsula  extends  nearly  northwest 
for  thirteen  miles  to  Cai)e  Blossom,  named  after  Captain  Beechey's  ship. 
This  cape  is  au  ice  formation  of  a  similar  nature  to  that  noticed  in  Esch- 
scholtz  Bny,  only  more  extensive,  and  having  a  contrary  aspect.  The 
ice  here  was  foand,  on  examining  it  from  above,  to  l)e  detached  from  the 
cliff  at  the  back  of  it,  additional  evidence  as  to  its  formation. 

tri)on  the  beach  under  the  dill's  there  was  an  abundance  of  diift\\ood, 
beech  and  pine;  one  of  the  latter  wna  a  tree  of  three  feet  in  diameter, 
which  was  fresh,  and  washed  up  between  July  and  September,  1826. 
They  here  met  with  some  natives  laying  out  their  nets  for  seals,  in  which 
they  were  unsuccessful.  The  party  procured  about  two  bushels  of  w  hortle- 
berries  that  they  had  gathered. 

The  bottom  of  this  side  of  the  sound  is- very  even  ai  six  or  seven  miles 
from  the  land  to  the  southward  of  Ca[)e  Blossom,  liit  to  the  northward 
of  it  a  shoal  extends  eight  miles  oft'  the  land,  and  is  very  dangerous,  as 
the  soundings  give  very  short  warning  of  its  proximity.  The  distance 
from  the  sIku'c,  could  it  be  judged  of  uiuler  ordinary  circumstances, 
would  on  some  occasions  be  a  most  treacherous  guide,  as  the  mirage  in 
line  weather  plays  about  it,  and  gives  the  land  a  very  dill'erent  ai)pear- 
ance  at  one  moment  from  that  which  it  assumes  at  another.  There  are 
no  good  Uuulmarks  tor  it.  The  l>earings  from  its  extremity,  in  two  and 
a  half  fathoms  of  water,  ai'e  (Jape  Blossom,  south  (JGo  40'  east,  true ; 


*  Captain  Ki'llotf's  party  found  (,Inly,  l^UO'tho  oa.sk  of  Hour,  left  by  Bcoclwy  twciity- 
thrcc  yoars  ln'forc,  to  hv  <iuito  jx'rffct.  Tli«  nauil  around  it  wjis  frozen  so  bard  tliat  it 
roquir»Ml  enormous  exertion  to  {^et  it  otit. 

t  Sonui  notice  of  the  visit  of  Kotzehue  in  .ruly,  1H16,  and  iil«o  of  liis  lieutenant,  tln-u 
Cajit.'iiu  Vo)i  .SchisehiaantV,  wUo  juiid  a  second  viwit  in  16'2(\  was  found  by  Cuptaiu 
Booclujy,  iu  18*^,  upon  the  island. 


■PT^'' 


148 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


Western  Iligh  Mount,  nortli  17^^30'  west,  true;  and  tlie  west  extreme, 
a  blnff  cape  near  Cape  KrusenBtern,  north  37°  west,  true.  But  the  beat 
way  to  avoid  it  is  to  go  about  directly  the  soundings  decrease  to  six 
fathoms,  as  after  that  depth  they  slioai  so  rapidly  to  two  and  a  quarter 
fatiioms  that  tliere  is  scarcely  room  to  i)ut  tbe  ship  round. 

HoTHAM  Inlet,  off  the  eiitraiice  of  whi<;h  the  foregoing  shoal  lies, 
\"seaped  the  notice  of  Kotzebue,  and  was  named  by  Captain  Beechey  after 
Sir  Henry  HothamyK.C.B.  It  is  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  and  extends 
to  the  southeast  thirty  or  forty  miles,  and  at  some  distance  up  it  was 
fresh.  This  was  ascertained  by  landing  in  the  sound  to  the  southward 
of  Cape  Blossom,  at  whicli  pla<:e  it  was  found  that  the  inlet  approaclied 
the  sea  within  one  and  a  half  mile.  It  is  only  navigable  for  small 
boats,  and,  being  fresh,  it  cannot  leavl  to  any  sea  beyond.  It  has  but 
one  small  entrance,  so  very  narrow  and  intricate  that  the  boats  grounded 
repeatedly  in  pursuing  it. 

To  the  north  and  west  of  the  opening  is  a  sandy  point,  at  the  back  of 
which  is  another  inlet,  whicb  is  aboi^t  five  miles  long  northwest  and 
southeast,  but  its  entrance  is  so  shallow  that  the  gulls  w^ade  I  across  it. 
On  this  sandy  neck  thftrc  was  Ji  native  burying  ground;  some  of  the 
bodies  were  placed  on  platforms  of  drift  wooii,  covered  with  a  double 
tent  of  drift- wood,  formiiig  a  conical  pile. 

Cape  Krusenstem,  about  twelve  miles  from  this  pfjint,  is  a  low  totigue 
of  land,  intersected  by  lakes,  lylrig  at  the  foot  of  a  high  cluster  of  hills 
not  in  any  way  remarkable.  Tiie  lajul  slopes  down  from  thence  to  seve- 
ral rocky  cliffs,  which,  until  the  l(.w  point  is  seen  at  the  Ibot  rf  them, 
appear  to  be  the  entrance  of  the  sonnd,  but  they  are  nearly  a  mile  itiiand 
from  it.  The  coast  her<i  takes  an  abrupt  turn  to  thi  northward,  and  the 
current  sets  strong  against  the  bend;  which  is  probably  the  reason  of 
there  being  deep  water  close  to  the  Iveiich,  as  als<.<  the  occasion  of  a  shoai 
in  a  northwesterly  direction  from  the  point,  wiiich  appears  to  have  been 
thrown  up  by  the  eddy  water. 

To  the  northward  of  this  point  there  is  a  shingly  beach  sufficiently 
steep  to  alford  very  good  landing  when  the  water  is  smooth.  Behind  it 
there  is  a  i)]ain  about  a  mile  wide,  extending  trom  the  hills  to  the  sea., 
composed  of  elastic  bog  earth,  intersected  by  sn\all  streams,  on  the  edges 
of  which  the  buttercup,  poppy,  bluebell,  &c.,  thrive  vex'y  well.  In  other 
parts,  however,  the  vegetation  was  stinted. 

The  coast  hence  takes  a  northwest  direction,  and  at  tifteen  nulesfrom 
Cape  Krusenstern  there  is  a  range  of  hills  terminating  about  four  miles 
tVom  the  sea,  which  nnist  be  the  Cape  Mulgrave  of  Captain  Cook,  who 
navigated  this  part  of  the  coast  at  too  great  a  distance  to  sec  the  land 
in  front  of  the  hills,  which  is  extremely  low,  and,  after  paK..ing  the  Mid- 
grave  Range,  forms  an  extensive  plain,  intersected  by  lakes  near  the 
beach.  Tliese  lakes  are  situat^'d  so  close  together,  that,  by  trans])orting 
a  small  boat  from  one  to  the  other,  a  very  good  inland  na\  igation,  if 
necessary,  might  be  performed.    They  are  supplied  by  the  draining  of 


TV 

w, 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


149 


lad  it 

8  from 
mile.'s 

wbo 
e  land 

Mul- 
ur  the 
lorling 
riou,  if 
jiiig  of 


the  land  and  the  molting  snow,  and  discharge  their  waters  through 
small  openings  in  the  shingly  beach,  too  shallow  to  be  entered  by  any- 
thing larger  than  abaidar;  one  of  tliem  excepted,  through  which  the 
current  ran  too  strong  for  soumlings  to  be  taken. 

Cape  Sepj)ings  is  thirtyftve  miles  from  the  iMulgrave  Hills,  and  nine 
and  a  half  nules  from  Cape  Thompson,  to  the  northwest.  This  latter, 
named  after  one  of  the  nav^'  commission,  is  a  bold  promontorj',  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  marked  with  differently  colored  strata. 
Cai)tain  Beech«\y  met  here,  as  he  had  done  at  most  parts  where  he 
landed,  some  Esquimaux,  who  were  friendly  and  extremely  good-natured 
and  honest.  He  visit<Hl  their  village  of  skin  tents  in  the  adjoining  val- 
ley, upon  a  fine  stream  of  fresh  water.  Here  the  party  were  offered  the 
utmost  hospitality;  several  dishes  were  placed  before  them,  their  two 
choicest  being  the  entiails  of  a  fine  seal  and  a  bowl  of  coagulated  blood. 
These  not  tempting,  another  was  offered,  the  raw  tlesh  of  the  narwhal, 
cut  into  lumps,  with  ecpuil  distribution  of  the  black  and  white  fat.  Near 
this  cape  is  one  that  has  been  named  Cape  Kicord  by  the  Russians. 

Point  Hope,  which  is  eleven  miles  from  Cape  Thom[)son,  is  the 
western  extremity  of  a  iwiiit  of  land  which  projects  almost  vsixteen  miles 
from  the  general  line  o."  coast.  It  is  int«irs«^cted  by  several  lakes  and 
small  creeks,  the  entrances  to  which  are  on  the  north  side.  There  is 
also  a  great  abundance  of  drift-wood.  Upon  the  extremity  of  the  point 
there  was  a  village  of  Esquimaux,  the  inhabitii  is  of  which  were  very 
wretched  and  forbidding,  but  gave  the  party  a  ver,\  welcome  reception* 
The  opening  to  the  lake  is  on  the  north  side,  and  across  thi>  opening  is 
a  bar,  consisting  of  pebbles  and  mud,  which  has  every  indication  of  being 
on  the  increase;  but  when  the  water  is  smooth  a  boat  may  enter,  and 
she  will  find  excellent  security  within  from  all  winds.  It  is  remarkable 
that  both  Cook  and  Clerke,  who  passed  within  a  very  short  distance  of 
this  point,  mistook  the  projection  for  ice  that  had  been  driven  against 
the  land,  and  omitted  to  mark  it  in  their  chaits. 

Captain  IJeechey,  in  passing  along  the  coast  between  this  jwint  and 
Kotzebue  Sound,  in  July  and  August,  found  a  current  setting  along  tlu' 
coast  in  a  northerly  direction  so  strong,  at  times,  that  it  carried  the 
ship  to  leeward  notwithstanding  she  Ix'at  the  whole  day  with  every  sail 
set.  It  varied  in  velocity  from  one  and  a  half  to  three  and  a  half  miles 
per  )H)ur,  and  was  strongest  inshore.  It  was  very  constant,  and  the 
water  was  much  freslxn-  than  the  ordinary  sea  water.  Captain  Becchey 
ujakfes  tin:  folhnving  observations  on  it:  "It  is  necessary  here  to  give 
some  fiirthei-  particulars  of  this  current,  in  onler  that  it  may  not  be  sup- 
])osed  thai  \\\v  whole  body  of  water  l>etween  the  tAVO  (continents  was 
setting  into  the  Polar  Sea  at  so  considerable  a  rate.  By  sinking  the 
patent  log  first  five  fathoms,  and  then  three  fathoms,  afid  allowing  it  to 
remain  in  the  first  instance  six  honrs,  and  in  the  latter  twelve  hours,  it 
was  clearly  ascertained  that  there  was  no  current  ar  either  of  those 
dci>ths;  but  at  the  distance  of  nine  feet  from  the  surface  the  motion  of 


.  !l'-■^ 


..V^M 


ll' 


',  ! 


1/ 


1; 


r  I 


150 


ALASKA   DUiECTOKY. 


the  water  was  nearly  equal  to  that  at  the  top.  Hence  we  must  con(!lude 
that  the  current  was  superlicial,  and  confined  to  a  depth  of  between 
nine  and  twelve  feet. 

"  By  the  freshness  of  the  water  alonj^side  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe  that  the  current  was  occasioned  by  the  many  rivers  which,  at 
this  time  of  the  year,  empty  themselves  into  the  sea  at  different  parts 
of  the  coast,  beginning  with  Schischmareff  Inlet.  The  s])'^''iftc  gravity 
of  the  sea  off  that  place  was  1 .02502,  from  which  it  gradually  decreased, 
and  at  our  station,  off  Point  Ho])e,  was  1.0173,  the  temperature  at  tiach 
being  08°.  On  the  other  hand  the  strength  of  the  stream  had  gradually 
increased  from  half  a  mile  an  hour  to  three  miles,  which  Avas  its  greatest 
rapidity.  So  far  there  is  nothing  extraordinary  in  the  fact ;  but  why 
this  body  of  water  should  continually  press  to  the  northward,  in  preference 
to  taking  any  other  direction,  or  gradually  expending  itself  in  the  sea, 
is  a  question  of  considerable  interest."    (Part  i,  pp.  205-6.) 

From  the  entrance  to  the  lakes  prev'  »usly  mentioned  the  coast  runs 
nearly  north,  trve,  for  seven  and  eight  miles,  to  Capes  Dyer  and  Lewis, 
re8pe(;tively. 

Cape  Lisbitrne,  of  Captain  Cook,  is  five  and  a  half  miles  north  of 
Cape  Lewis.  It  is  a  mountain  which,  at  the  point,  is  eight  hundred  and 
forty-nine  feet  above  the  sea,  and  at  so  short  a  distance  from  it  on  one 
side  that  it  was  fearful  to  look  down  upon  the  bea<;h  below.  The  basis 
of  the  mountain  was  flint  of  the  purest  kind,  and  limestone,  abounding 
in  fossil  shells,  enchinites,  and  marine  animals. 

The  mountain  was  ascended  by  a  valley,  which  collected*  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  mountain  and  poured  them  in  a  cascade  from  the  beach. 
There  was  very  little  soil  in  the  valley  ;  the  stones  were  covered  with  a 
thick,  wet,  swampy  moss,  which  was  traversed  with  difficulty.  Vegeta- 
tion, however,  was  as  luxurious  as  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  more  than  one 
hundred  miles  to  the  southward,  or,  what  is  of  more  consequence,  more 
than  that  distance  further  fiom  the  great  barrier  of  ice.  Several  rein- 
deer were  feeding  on  this  luxuriant  pastiue;  the  cliffs  were  covered 
with  birds,  and  the  swamps  generated  myriads  of  mosquitoes,  which 
were  more  persevering,  if  possible,  than  those  at  Chamisso  Island. 

It  was  at  this  point  that  the  Blossom's  barge,  which  had  been  dis- 
patched to  examine  the  coast  to  the  northward,  met  on  her  return  with 
such  tempestuous  weather,  that  she  doubled  this  windy  cape  with  great 
difficulty.  "At  2  p.  m.,  September  6,  we  got  within  the  inUuence  of 
the  variable  winds  occasioned  by  the  steep  and  high  land  of  the  cape. 
The  bubble  and  agitation  of  the  sea  exceeded  any  idea  of  the  kind  we 
had  formed,  and  broke  over  the  boat  in  every  direction ;  we  had  no 
means  of  extricating  her.  The  gusts  of  wind  that  came  from  every 
qiuirter,  lasting  but  a  moment,  left  us  no  prosi>ect  of  getting  dear.  We 
were  at  this  time  about  two  miles  from  the  land.  The  wind  in-ehore  of 
us  blew  with  astonishing  violence,  the  eddies  from  the  hills  making 


-TTH-ir   "f-p.N^ii^ii^^iijii 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


151 


whirlwinds,  which  carried  up  the  spray  equal  iu  height  to  the  mountain." 
(Part  ii,  p.  320.) 

At  Cape  Lisburne  the  coast  turns  to  the  eastward  at  nearly  light 
angles,  and  the  coast  being  lower,  some  lakes  are  formed  within  the 
beach,  which  were  open  to  the  sea  when  the  Blossom  passed  them  iu 
August,  but  wliich  entrances  were  entirely  obliterated  by  the  waves  in 
the  following  month.  At  about  live  miles  from  the  cape  is  one  of  these 
lakes,  larger  than  the  others.  Continuing  eastward  along  the  coast,  at 
thirty-two  miles  from  Cai)e  Lisburne,  we  reach  Cape  Sabine,  which  is 
low,  and  projects  but  £.]'\7"htly  from  the  general  line  of  coast,  which  here 
begins  to  trend  to  tlie  ncutheastward. 

Cape  Beaufort  is  situated  in  the  depth  of  a  great  bay  formed  between 
Cape  Lisburne  and  Icy  Cape,  and  is  the  last  point  w  here  the  hills  come 
close  down  by  the  sea,  by  reason  of  the  coast-line  curving  to  the  north- 
ward, while  the  range  of  hills  continues  its  former  direction.  From  the 
rugged  mountains  of  limestone  and  flint  at  Cape  Lisburne  there  is  a 
uniform  descent  to  the  rounded  hills  of  sandstone  at  Cape  Beaufort. 
The  range,  however,  is  broken  by  extensive  valleys,  intersected  by  lakes 
and  rivers.  Some  of  these  lakes  border  upon  the  sea,  and  in  the  sum- 
mer months  are  accessible  to  baidars,  or  even  large  boats ;  but  as  soon 
as  the  cuiTent  from  the  beds  of  thawing  snow  inland  ceases,  the  sea 
throws  up  a  bar  across  the  mouths  of  them,  and  they  cannot  be  entered. 
The  bea<?h,  at  the  pUujes  where  Captain  Beechey's  party  landed,  was 
shingle  and  mud,  the  country  mossy  and  swampy,  and  infested  with 
mosquitoes.  They  noticed  recent  tracks  of  wolves,  and  of  some  cloven- 
footed  animals,  and  saw  several  ptarmigans,  ortolans,  and  a  lark.  Very 
little  drift-wood  had  found  its  way  upon  this  part  of  the  coast. 

Cape  Beaufort,  as  before  mentioned,  is  composed  of  sandstone,  inclos- 
ing bits  of  petrified  wood  and  rushes,  and  is  traversed  by  narrow  veins 
of  coal,  lying  in  an  east- northeast  and  west-southwest  direction.  That 
at  the  surface  was  diy,  but  some  pieces,  which  had  been  thrown  up  by 
some  burrowing  animal,  probably  the  ermine,  burned  very  well. 

The  coast  from  Cape  Beaufort  trends  more  to  the  northward,  and  at 
seventeen  leagues  distant  from  it  is  Point  Lay.  About  this  point  the 
outer  coast  is  fornuMl  of  a  strip  of  shingle  or  sand  one  huntlred  and  fifty 
yards  in  width,  and  about  six  feet  above  the  hivel  of  the  sea.  Within 
this  outer  line  is  an  extensive  lake,  which  extends,  with  some  interrup- 
tions, for  above  one  hundred  an<l  twenty  miles,  and  from  two  to  six  miles 
broad.  This  lake  is  connected  with  the  sea  at  high  tide,  and  the  water 
is  consequently  salt;  yet,  by  digging  at  the  distan(!e  of  less  than  a  yard 
from  its  nmrgin,  some  wat^u'  sulliciently  fresh  to  drink  was  obtained ;  a 
resource  of  which  the  natives  appeared  to  be  well  aware.  An  abundance 
of  drift-wood  was  heai)ed  up  on  the  upper  part  of  the  shingle.  The  trees 
were  torn  up  by  tln^  roots,  and  some  were  worm-eaten ;  but  the  greater 
part  appeared  to  have  been  only  a  short  time  at  sea,  and  all  of  it  that  was 
examined  was  pine. 


if 


152 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


At  the  time  of  the  Blossom's  visit,  at  the  end  of  August,  182G,  immense 
flocks  of  ducks,  cousisting  entirely  of  young  ones  and  females,  were  seen 
migrating  to  the  southward.  The  young  ones  could  not  fly.  From  the 
desolate  appearance  of  the  coast  at  the  point  on  which  they  landed, 
they  scarcely  expected  to  find  a  human  being;  but  they  had  no  sooner 
set  their  foot  on  shore  than  a  baidar  full  of  Esquimaux  landed  just  by. 
The  ebb  set  to  south-southwest  at  the  rate  of  half  a  knot:  the  flood  ran 
to  north  one-half  east  at  the  same  rate,  an  evidence  that  it  conies  from 
the  southward. 

Drift-wood  was  everywhere  abundant,  though  least  so  on  such  parts  of 
the  coast  as  had  a  western  aspect,  but  without  any  apparent  reason  for 
this  dift'ereuce.  Tiie  soundings  off  the  coast  are  everywhere  regular,  and, 
should  the  ice  be  drifted  against  this  outer  strip  of  land,  by  transport- 
ing a  small  boat  over  the  narrow  necks  separating  the  lakes  a  good  inland 
navigation  might  be  performed.  The  habitations  of  the  Escpiimaux  are 
invariably  upon  the  low  strips  of  sand  bordering  on  the  lakes. 

Icy  Cape  is  thirty-eight  miles  northward  of  Point  Lay,  and  is  the 
furthest  i)oint  reached  by  Captain  Cook,  who  applied  the  name  to  it  from 
the  quantity  of  ice  which  surrounded  it;  but  none  was  visible  when  the 
Blossom  was  here  in  August,  1826. 

The  cape  is  very  low,  and  has  the  large  lake  pre\iously  alluded  to  at 
the  back  of  it,  which  here  receives  the  waters  of  a  considerable  river, 
and,  communicating  with  the  sea  through  a  narrow  channel,  much  encum- 
bered with  shoals.  The  mainland  on  both  sides  of  I(;y  Cai)e,  from  Wain- 
Wright  Inlet  on  one  side  to  Cape  Beaufort  on  the  other,  is  flat,  and  cov- 
ered Avith  swampy  moss.  It  presents  a  line  of  low  mud  cliffs,  between 
which  and  the  shingly  beach  there  is  the  succession  of  narrow  lakes 
capable  of  being  navigated  by  baidars  or  small  boats. 

Off  here  a  great  many  black  whales  were  seen,  more  than  was  remem- 
bered even  in  Baftin's  Bay.  There  are  several  winter  habitations  of  the 
Esquimaux  upon  the  cape. 

The  Blossom  Shoals  lie  immediately  oft"  Icy  Cape.  They  consist  of 
several  successive  banks,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  apart,  lying 
parallel  with  the  coast  line.  Upon  the  outer  ones  there  were  only  three 
andahalf  and  four  fathoms;  and  upon  the  inner  bank  so  little  water 
that  the  sea  broke  continually  over  it.  Between  the  shoals  there  were 
nine  and  ten  fathoms,  with  very  irregular  casts.  These  shoals  are  prob- 
ably the  eft'ect  of  ti.e  large  river  which  here  empties  itself  into  the  sea, 
though  they  may  be  occasioned  by  heavy  ice  grounding  off  the  point  and 
being  fixed  to  the  bottom,  as  upon  endeavoring  to  weigh  the  Blossom's 
anchor  the  chain  broke  after  a  very  heavy  strain.  It  may  here  be  re- 
marked that  these  shoals  might  afford  shelter  from  the  pressure  of  ice, 
should  it  be  necessary  for  a  vessel  to  go  within  them. 

From  Icy  Cape  the  outer  coast  continues  in  one  low  unbroken  line  to 
the  eastward,  and  is  ct>vered  with  a  thick  peat,  which  retains  the  water, 
making  it  very  swampy  and  almost  impassable.     Upon  the  beach  is 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


153 


three 
'ater 
^ere 
)rob- 
aea, 
and 
"m's 
re- 
ice, 

|»e  to 
iter, 
h  ia 


abundance  of  coal  and  drift-wood.  The  former  ia  interaiiersed  with  the 
shingle  and  aand ;  and  tlie  latter,  in  some  ])arts,  is  very  abundant,  and 
is  forced  hifth  upon  the  beach,  probably  by  the  pressure  of  the  ice  when 
driven  against  the  co^st. 

Wainwrifjht  Inlet  is  forty  miles  eastward  of  Icy  Caj^e,  and  appears  to 
be  a  spacious  oiMMiinj;  or  lake,  the  estuary  of  a  considerable  river.  Its 
south  entrance  point  was  named  Point  Marsh ;  its  northern.  Cape  Collie ; 
between  them  is  the  mouth,  having  a  shoal  across  connected  with  the 
land  on  the  northern  side,  but  with  a  channel  for  boats  in  the  opposite 
direction.  Tlu^  country  around  is  low,  covered  with  a  brown  moss,  and 
intersected  with  water-courses.  To  the  northward  of  the  entran(;e  of  the 
lake  the  coast  becomes  higher,  and  presents  an  extensive  range  of  mud 
cliffs,  termiiuiting  in  a  cape,  which,  however,  is  some  little  distance 
inland. 

The  natives,  taking  advantage  of  this  elevated  ground,  had  constructed 
winter  residences  on  it ;  they  were  very  numerous,  and  extended  some 
distance  along  the  coast.  Here,  too,  they  form  their  stores  of  pem- 
mican,  &c. 

During  the  progress  of  the  expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
in  1849,  this  inlet  was  examined  by  Captain  Kellett,  for  the  purpose  of 
finding  a  wintering  station  for  the  Plover.  The  report  returned  was : 
"  That  the  channel  was  very  narrow  and  winding;  that  nine  feet  was  the 
most  water  that  could  with  certainty  be  carried  in,  (ten  found  aft>r,)  and 
that  even  to  insure  that  depth  the  channel  would  require  close  buv)ying; 
that  a  fair  wind  or  a  calm,  so  that  a  vessel  might  either  sail  or  be  towed 
in,  was  necessary,  the  channel  being  too  narrow  and  intricate  to  warp 
through.  Once  in,  there  was  a  sufficiency  of  water,  and  a  convenient  spot 
for  the  Plover  to  winter,  alongside  a  bank,  w^ell  sheltered.  The  natives 
told  them  that  a  considerable  river  runs  into  it — at  least  one  that  they  can 
in  their  baidars  navigate  for  many  days ;  and  that  it  ran  to  the  south- 
east ;  that  on  its  banks,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  inlet,  the  rein- 
deer collected  in  great  numbers  in  their  progress  northerly  and  on  their 
return  to  the  south."* 

To  the  northward  of  Cape  Collie  the  coast  preserves  the  same  north- 
east direction,  and  at  sixteen  miles  from  it  is  Point  B(»lcher.  The 
outer  coast,  midway  between,  is  low,  but  more  dry  than  in  the  vicinity  of 
Wainwright  Inlet,  with  a  beach  of  sand  and  gravel  mixed,  upon  which 
there  was  also  an  abundance  of  coal  and  drift-wood.  Several  native 
yourts  were  seen  here,  and  the  coast  was  more  populous  than  anywhere 
to  the  southward. 

Point  Franklin,  which  ia  eighteen  miles  east-northeast,  true,  from 


*  On  approiieliinj;  Wainwright  inlet,  July  25, 1849,  Captain  Kellett  says  that  tlie  vast 
nmnbcr  of  waliu.ses  that  .siinoun»le<l  them  kept  up  a  continual  bellowinjjj  or  gruntinfr- 
Tho  barking  of  the  iininnierable  seals,  the  small  whales,  and  the  immense  floeka  of 
ducks  continally  rising  from  the  water  as  they  neared  them,  warned  them  of  the 
approach  to  the  ice,  although  tlie  temperature  was  still  high.  They  niude  the  land 
about  ten  miles  to  the  north  of  Wainwright  Inlet. 


, ,.    .,,.,,  -,■■  '■xy,-i'-''.'*r«^*ft''jVi',;^  ^ 


154 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


Point  Belcher,  is  the  outermost  point  of  a  chiiin  of  sandy  islands  lying 
at  some  distance  from  the  mainland,  and  extending^  toward  the  latter 
point.  They  were  named  the  Seahorse  Islands.  The  surface  of  the 
beach  at  Oai)e  Franklin  was  a  flue  sand ;  but  by  digging*  a  few  inches 
down  it  was  mixed  with  coal.  Here,  also,  Jis  in  the  preceding  shores, 
there  is  a  great  quantity  of  drift-wood. 

From  the  cape  the  (!oast,  still  consisting  of  a  chain  of  islands  lying 
off  the  mainland,  turns  to  the  southeast  and  unites  with  tiie  laud,  form- 
ing a  bay,  which  was  named  Peard  Bay,  after  the  first  lieutenant  of  the 
Blossom. 

From  the  bottom  of  Peard  Bay  the  coast  assumes  a  different  aspect, 
and  a  few  miles  beyond  consists  of  clay  cliffs,  about  fifty  feet  high,  and 
presented  an  ice  formation  resembling  that  which  has  been  described  in 
Eschscholtz  Bay.  The  interior  of  the  country  is  fiat,  and  was  only  par- 
tially covered  with  snow  in  the  middle  of  August.  At  about  thirteen 
miles  from  the  commencement  of  the  higher  coast  a  river  discharges 
itself  into  a  lake  within  this  shingly  beach,  the  water  of  which,  being 
perfectly  fresh,  will  afford  supplies. 

Eefuge  Inlet  is  about  fifteen  miles  northeast  of  this  river,  into  which 
the  current  was  setting  very  fast  and  carrying  the  ice  with  it,  when  the 
Blossom's  barge  was  returning,  at  the  end  of  August,  occasioning  great 
difficulty  in  tracking  her  against  the  wind,  w  hich  was  dead  against  them. 

Cape  Smyth,  so  named  after  the  officer  who  accomi)anied  the  boat  ex- 
pedition, is  ten  miles  from  Refuge  Inlet.  It  is  about  forty-five  feet  in 
height,  tipon  it  was  a  village,  as  there  was  also  upon  the  northeast 
point  of  Refuge  Inlet. 

Point  Barrow,  which  is  sixteen  miles  northeast  of  Cape  Smyth,  is  the 
northwesteruraost  extreme  of  the  American  continent.  It  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-six  miles  to  the  northeast  of  Icy  Cape,  and  only  one 
hundred  and  forty-six  from  the  extreme  of  Captain  (afterwards  Sir  John) 
Franklin's  exploration  westward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River; 
so  that  the  two  expeditions  designed  to  co-operate  with  each  other  were 
only  separated  by  this  short  interval,  afterwards  filled  up  by  the  over- 
land expeditions  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  and  subsequently  ex- 
plored in  1849  by  the  Nancy  Dawson. 

The  cape  was  named  after  Sir  John  Barrow,  of  the  British  admiralty* 
the  chief  promoter  of  the  arctic  expedition. 

Point  Barrow  is  the  northern  extremity  of  a  spit  of  land  which  juts 
out  six  or  eight  miles  from  the  more  regular  coast  line.  From  Cape 
Smyth  the  coast  slopes  regularly  to  the  northward,  and  this  peninsula 
is  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  neck  which  does  not  ex(5eed  one  and  a 
half  mile  in  breadth,  and  appears  in  some  i)laces  less,  ^be  extremity 
was  broader  than  any  other  part,  and  had  several  small  lakes  of  water 
on  it,  which  were  frozen  over  at  the  end  of  August,  1 829.  On  the  eastern 
side  of  this  peninsula  was  a  large  Esquimaux  village,  consisting  entirely 
of  yourts,  the  natives  of  which  were  inclined  to  be  troublesome  to  the 


ALA8KA   DIRECTORY. 


155 


boat's  party,  leaving  no  doubt  as  to  what  would  be  the  fate  of  a  crew 
falling  into  their  power. 

The  bay  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  cape  was  named  Elson  Bay,  in 
conipliinent  to  the  officer  of  the  barge. 

The  position  of  Point  Barrow  was  ascertained  to  bo  in  latitude  71° 
23'  31"  north,  longitude  15(»o  21'  30"  west.  The  azimuth  sights  made 
the  variatiiui  41°  east ;  that  observed  on  thin  ice  was  42°  15'  east. 

The  current  about  Point  Barrow  was  found  to  be  setting  at  the  rate  of 
three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour  northeast,  true,  and  the  ice  was  all  drift- 
ing to  that  quarter. 

The  western  coast  of  America  terminates  at  Point  Barrow.  Beyond 
this  it  extends  to  the  eastwai"d,  and  hitherto  has  been  untraversed  by  any 
sailing  vessel.  Even  Point  Barrow  itself  cannot  always  be  approached 
by  boats  during  the  open  season. 


1  juts 

Cape 
insula 

and  a 
remity 

water 
lastern 
ntirely 

to  the 


ICY  OR  POLAR  SEA. 

It  was,  as  has  been  before  alluded  to,  long  a  problem  of  very  great 
interest  to  the  world  what  was  the  termination  to  the  north  of  the  great 
ocean ;  which  was  solved,  though  not  satisfactorily,  by  Behriug  in  1741. 
The  true  nature  of  this  limit  to  the  world  of  waters  was  first  more  exactly 
ascertained  by  Captain  Cook's  last  expedition.  The  Resolution  and  Dis- 
covery reached  this  icy  barrier  in  the  summer  of  1778;  and  again,  under 
the  orders  of  Captain  Clerke,  in  1779.  Since  that  time  more  than  one 
navigator  has  visited  this  remote  region,  though  it  must  be  acknowledged 
that  scientific  interests  rather  than  commercial  importauci^  have  led  to 
these  explorations.  But  as  of  late  years  these  water.4  have  been  much 
frequented  for  the  pursuit  of  the  whale  fishery,  more  is  known  concern- 
ing them ;  yet,  from  the  analogy  of  other  tracts  of  the  ocean,  it  must  be 
l)resunied  that  this  region  in  its  turn  will  become  abandoned,  ere  long, 
to  its  original  solitudes. 

The  BARRIER  OF  ICE  extending  from  the  shores  of  America  to  those 
of  Asia  possesses  all  the  peculiarities  incident  to  the  similar  natural 
features  in  other  regions.  It  varies  in  its  extent,  or  rather  its  encroach- 
ments, on  the  open  sea  to  the  southward  of  it  in  different  seasons,  and 
therefore  no  absolute  description  can  be  given  of  its  limits.  The  few  fol- 
low ing  extracts  will  be  sufficient  to  indicate  its  character. 

Icy  Cape,  on  the  American  shore,  would  appear  to  be  a  frequent  limit 
to  its  southern  side.  This  cape  was  much  encumbered  when  Cook  dis- 
covered it  in  August,  1778;  hence  its  name.  When  Captain  Beechey 
visited  it  in  the  Blossom,  in  the  same  month  of  1826,  there  was  none 
visible ;  but,  on  sending  his  barge  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  northward, 
it  was  found  that  strong  northerly  currents  had  drifted  it  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  it  was  not  until  they  approached  Cape  Smyth  and  Point  Bar- 
row that  the  pack  was  found  to  close  with  the  coast.  But  this  advance 
was  not  unattended  with  danger,  for  before  they  could  return  the  body 


156 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


of  ice  luKi  closed,  or  nearly  closed,  with  the  coast  as  far  as  Point  Frank- 
lin, in  latitude  71^.  The  packetl  ice  to  the  northward  was  from  six  to 
fourteen  feet  high.  At  one  hundred  miles  westward  of  this  part  the 
main  pack  was  found  to  reach  to  71°  10'. 

In  the  following  year,  or  in  August,  1827,  a  new  arrangement  was  found. 
The  main  body  of  the  ice  was  many  miles  to  the  south wa id  of  its  former 
limits,  and  reached  within  a  few  miles  of  Icy  Cape ;  ami  from  this  its 
edge  extended  in  a  west  and  west- south  west  direction  to  below  70°,  in 
longitude  108°  west.  Thus  in  one  year  it  had  increased  nearly  a  degree 
beyond  its  first  limits. 

When  Cai)tain  Cook  came  here  in  1778  he  came  on  the  main  i)ack  on 
August  17,  in  latitude  70°  41';  that  is,  a  little  to  the  north  of  Icy  Cape. 
It  was  here  quite  impenetrable,  and  extended  west  loy  north  aiul  east  by 
south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  It  vrns  compact  as  a  wall,  and  ten 
feet  high,  at  least — its  surface  extremely  rugged — and  further  north  it 
appeared  much  higher.  The  vicinity  of  the  edge  of  the  main  body  was 
indicated  by  a  prodigious  number  of  sea-horses,  (morses,)  whose  roaring 
or  braying  gave  them  notice  of  its  proximity.  The  whole  of  it  w^as  a 
movable  mass,  for  within  two  or  three  days  it  had  drifted  down  to 
69^  40'.  TMien  ap])roaching  the  Asiatic  coast,  which  he  had  done  by 
coasting,  more  or  less,  along  the  barrier,  on  August  27,  he  says:  "Hav- 
ing but  little  wind,  I  went  with  the  boats  to  examine  the  state  of  the 
ice;  I  found  it  consisting  of  loose  pieces,  of  various  extent,  and  so  close 
together  that  I  could  hardly  enter  the  outer  edge  with  a  boat ;  and  it  w.as 
as  impossible  for  ships  to  enter  it  as  if  it  liad  been  ?,t>  many  rocks.  I  took 
particular  notice  that  it  was  all  pure,  transparent  ice,*  excejjt  the  upper 
surface,  which  was  a  little  porous.  It  appeared  to  be  entirely  composed 
of  frozen  snow,  and  to  have  been  all  formed  at  sea;  for,  setting  aside  the 
improbability,  or  rather  impossibility,  of  such  large  masses  floating  out 
of  rivers,  in  which  there  is  hardly  water  for  a  boat,  none  of  the  produc- 
tions of  the  land  were  found  incorporated  or  fixed  in  it,  which  must  have 
unavoidably  been  the  case  had  it  been  formed  in  rivers,  either  great  or 
small.  The  pieces  of  ice  which  formed  the  outer  edge  of  the  field  were 
from  forty  to  fifty  yards  in  extent  to  four  or  five;  and  I  judged  that  the 
larger  pieces  reached  thirty  feet  or  more  under  the  surface  of  the  water. 
It  also  appeared  to  me  very  improbable  that  this  ice  could  have  been  the 
production  of  the  preceding  winter  alone;  I  should  sui)pose  it  rather 
to  have  been  the  production  of  a  great  many  winters.  Nor  was  it  less 
improbable,  in  my  judgment,  that  the  little  that  remained  of  the  summer 
could  destroy  the  tenth  part  of  what  now  subsisted  of  this  mass,  for  the 
sun  had  already  exerted  upon  it  the  full  influence  of  his  rays.  Indeed,  I 
am  of  opiniim  that  the  sun  contributes  very  little  towards  reducing  these 
great  masses;  for,  although  that  luminary  is  a  considerable  while  Jibove 


*  Clear  and  transparent  ico  has  recently  been  shown  by  Dr.  Faraday  and  others  to  be 
one  of  the  pui'est  substances  in  nature,  and  therefore  eminently  adapted  for  supplies  of 
water. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


157 


era  to  be 
pplieB  «)f 


the  horizon,  it  sehlom  shines  out  for  more  than  a  few  hours  at  a  time,  and 
often  is  not  seen  for  several  days  in  succession.  It  is  the  wind,  or  rather 
the  waves  raised  by  the  wind,  that  brings  (h)wn  the  bulk  of  these  enor- 
mous  uuisses,  by  grinding  one  piece  against  another,  and  by  urulermining 
and  washing  away  thos<»  parts  that  lie  exposed  to  the  surge  of  the  sea. 
This  was  evident  from  our  observing  that  the  upper  surface  of  many 
pieces  had  been  partly  washed  away,  while  the  base  or  under  part 
remained  linn  for  several  fathoms  around  that  which  appeared  above 
water,  exactly  like  a  shoal  around  an  elevated  rock.  We  measui-ed  the 
depth  of  water  upon  one,  and  found  it  to  be  fifteen  feet,  so  that  the  ships 
might  have  sailed  over  it.  If  I  had  not  measured  this  depth  1  would  not 
have  believed  that  there  was  sutiicient  weight  of  ice  above  the  surface  to 
have  sunk  the  other  so  much  below  it.  Thus  it  may  happen  that  more 
ice  is  destroyed  ii^  one  stormy  season  than  is  formed  in  several  winters, 
and  au  endless  accumulation  is  prevented.  But  that  there  is  always  a 
remaining  store  every  one  who  has  been  upon  the  spot  will  conclude,  and 
none  but  closet-studying  philosophers  will  dispute."*  This  was  about 
latitude  01)°  20'.  The  following  day  he  sailed  for  and  discovered  the 
Asiatic  coast  at  Cape  North,  which  may  thus  be  taken  as  the  western 
limit  of  this  barrier. 

In  the  ensuing  year,  1779,  after  the  unfortunate  death  of  the  commo- 
dore. Captain  Clerke,  the  second  in  command,  took  the  two  ships  up  to 
the  northward  again ;  but  in  this  season  it  was  a  month  earlier.  It  will 
be  needless  to  follow  them  in  their  progress;  but,  so  far  as  their  experi- 
ence went,  it  appeared  that  the  sea  to  the  northward  of  Behring's  Strait 
is  clearer  of  ice  in  August  than  in  July.  The  following  is  a  summary  of 
the  conclusions  arrived  at  by  the  two  attempts: 

"  It  nuiy  be  observed  that  in  the  year  1778  we  did  not  meet  with  the 
ice  till  we  advanced  to  the  latitude  of  70°,  and  on  August  17th,  and  then 
we  found  it  in  compact  bodies,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
and  of  which  a  i)art  or  the  whole  was  movable,  since,  by  its  drifting 
down  upon  us,  we  narrowly  escaped  being  hemmed  in  between  it  and 
the  land.  After  experiencing  botli  how  fruitless  and  dangerous  it  would 
be  to  attempt  to  penelrata  further  north,  between  the  ice  and  the  land, 
we  stood  over  to  the  Asiatic  side,  between  the  latitude  of  09°  and  70°, 
frequently  encountering,  in  this  track,  large  and  extensive  fields  of  ice ; 
and  though  by  leason  of  the  fogs,  and  thickness  of  the  weather,  we  were 
not  able  absolutely  and  entirely  to  trace  a  connected  line  of  it  across, 
yet  we  were  sure  to  meet  with  it  before  we  reached  the  latitude  of  70°, 
whenever  we  attempted  to  stand  to  the  northward.  On  the  20th  of  Au- 
gust, in  latitude  09^°,  and  longitude  IS-k'^  east,  we  were  obstructed  by 
it  in  such  (piantities  as  made  it  impossible  for  us  to  pass  either  to  the 
north  or  west,  and  obliged  us  to  rim  along  the  edge  of  it  to  the  south- 
southwest  till  we  saw  land,  which  we  afterwards  found  to  be  the  coast 
of  Asia.     With  the  season  thus  far  advanced,  the  weather  setting  in 


*  Vol.  ii,  pp.  462,  463. 


158 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


('  'I.. 
J,  «;ll 

'4 


t 


;,-  i 


lis.  ; 


'J:l 


with  RTiow  and  slpot.  niid  othor  signs  of  npproacljinj?  winter,  wo  aban- 
doned our  onU'ipri.so  for  that  time. 

"In  tliis  Hi'cond  attempt  we  conld  do  little  more  than  contirm  tlie  ob- 
servations we  luul  made  in  the  first,  for  we  were  never  able  to  a|)proa  "> 
the  continent  of  Asia  hij^her  than  the  latitude  of  07°,  nor  that  of  Amer- 
ica on  any  i)arts,  excepting  a  few  leagues  between  the  latitude  of  08° 
and  08°  LM)',  that  were  not  seen  last  year.  We  were  now  obstructed  by 
ice  3°  lower,  and  our  endeavH)rs  to  i)ush  to  the  northward  were  princi- 
pally contined  to  the  mid-space  between  the  two  coasts.  Wo  penetrated 
near  3°  further  on  the  American  side  than  on  the  Asiatic,  meeting  with 
the  ice  both  years  sooner,  and  in  greater  quantities,  on  the  latter  coast. 
As  we  advanced  tv  (he  north,  we  still  found  tlui  ice  more  ciimpsu't  and 
solid;  yet  as,  in  our  ditterent  traverses  from  side  to  side,  we  passed  over 
spjices  which  had  before  been  covered  with  it,  we  conjectured  that  most 
of  what  we  saw  was  movable.  Its  height,  on  a  medium,  we  took  to  be 
from  eight  to  ten  feet,  and  that  of  the  highest  from  sixteen  to  eighteen. 
We  again  tried  the  currents  there,  and  found  them  unequal,  but  never 
to  exceed  a  mile  an  liour.  By  comparing  the  reckoning  with  the  obser- 
vations, we  also  found  the  current  to  set  in  ditferent  ways,  yet  more 
from  the  southwest  than  any  other  quarter;  but  whatever  their  direc- 
tion might  be,  their  elfect  was  so  trilling  that  no  conclusions  respecting 
the  existence  of  any  i)assage  to  the  northward  could  be  drawn  from  them. 
We  found  the  month  of  July  to  be  infinitely  colder  than  that  of  August. 
The  thermometer  in  July  was  once  at  28°,  and  very  commonly  at  3(P; 
whereas  the  last  year,  in  August,  it  was  rare  to  have  it  as  low  as  the 
freezing  point.  In  both  seasons  we  had  some  high  winds,  all  of  which 
came  from  the  southwest.  We  were  subject  to  fogs  whenever  the  wind 
was  moderate,  from  whatever  quarter;  but  they  attended  southerly 
winds  more  constantly  than  contrary  ones."* 

These  extracts  will  give  a  sulHcient  idea  of  the  character  of  the  ice  at 
the  respective  periods.  They  have  been  visited  more  recently  by  the 
expeditions  under  Captains  Kellett  and  Moore,  in  her  Majesty's  ships 
Herald  and  Plover,  in  search  of  the  parties  under  Sir  John  Franklin. 
Without  entering  into  any  irrelevant  detail,  we  will  insert  the  account 
of  the  progress  along  the  ice  as  given  in  the  newspapers  at  the  end  of 
January,  1850.    Captain  Kellett's  letter  has  the  following : 

"  July  2G,  1841). — ^At  4  a.  m.  the  ice  could  be  seen  in  heavy  masses, 
extending  from  the  shore  near  the  Sea-horse  Islands,  southeast-  from 
Point  Barrow.  At  Gh.  we  were  obliged  to  heave  to,  in  conseipu'iice  of  a 
dense  fog;  this  cleared  off  at  11/t.  30w.  The  Plover  was  close  to,  but  nei- 
ther the  boats  nor  the  yacht  were  in  sight. 

"  We  both  made  sail,  steering  true  north,  and  were  at  1  p.  m.  in  lati- 
tude 71°  5',  where  we  made  the  heavily  packed  ice,  extending  nearly  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach  from  northwest  by  west  to  northeast.  At  this 
time  we  had  t;  )undiiigs  in  forty  fathoms,  nuul,  the  deepest  water  we  have 


CaiJtain  Gierke,  in  Cook's  Tliird  Voyage,  vol.  iii,  pp.  27G,  277. 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


159 


.liich 
wind 
lerly 


ill  lati- 
ally  as 
At  this 
,'e  have 


had  since  loavinjj  tlio  island  of  St.  Lawrence.  We  continued  ninninjf 
alon^  the  piwk  (intil  H  j).  m.,  when,  u  thick  top  eoininp;  on,  we  ran  two 
or  thie«' miles  sonth,  and  hove  to,  the\\ind  blowiii};  from  north-north- 
east, Jiiul  directly  otlthe  ice.    We  bad  rnn  alonj?  it  thirty  miles. 

"  The  pack  was  eom[>osed  of  dirty-('olor«'«l  ice,  not  more  than  live  or 
six  feet  hij;h,  except  some  i>innaeles  deeply  seated  in  .the  pack,  which 
had  no  donbt  been  tlirown  up  by  the  tlo«'s  (;omin};  in  contact.  Every 
few  miles  the  ice  ntreamed  off  from  the  pack,  throuj;li  which  the  IMover 
sailed. 

July  2{). — At  1//.  3()MJ.  the  fog  cleared  oil",  the  pack  from  north-north- 
west to  north-northeast,  distant  about  six  miles.  Made  sail  during  the 
forei  -on,  running  through  streams  of  loose  ice.  At  10//.  passed  some 
large  and  heavy  tloes.  Couunander  Moore,  considering  them  sufticiently 
heavy  and  extensive  to  obtain  a  siute  of  magnetical  observations, 
di'opi)ed  the  IMover  through  between  them,  and  made  fast  with  the 
jfe-ancluns  under  the  lee  of  the  largest  in  a  most  seanianlike  manner. 

"I  landed  on  the  tloe,  with  Lieutenant  TroUope.  The  latitude,  time, 
and  variation  w<>re  obtained  on  it,  (latitude  71°  30'  north,  longitude  102°  o' 
west;)  but  the  other  observations  were  vitiated  by  its  motion  in  azinuith, 
anf'  by  i.i  constant  breaking  away  the  level  would  not  stand.  We  had 
twenty  eight  fatlioniis,  mud,  alongside  it,  and  no  current. 

"  1  found  the  ice  driving  slowly  to  the  southward,  with  the  north- 
northeast  wind  blowing  fresh.  Very  few  walruses  and  but  a  single  diver 
seen.  The  general  height  of  this  tloe  was  live  feet,  and  about  a  mile  in 
extent.  On  it  were  found  pebbles  and  mud,  which  led  Commander 
Moore  to  Nn[)i)ose  that  it  had  been  in  contact  with  the  land. 

"  At  'i  p.  m.  the  I'lover  slipped  from  the  ice,  and  both  ships,  with  a 
northeast  wind,  made  sail  westerly  until  G  p.  m.,  when  we  hauled  up 
true  north,  having  no  ice  in  sight  in  that  direction,  and  only  from  the 
masthead  on  the  weather  beam.  A  tine  clear  niglit,  running  along  six 
and  seven  knots;  temperature  of  the  water  40°;  dei)th  twenty-one  fath- 
oms, (increasing.) 

"  At  midnight  the  latitude  was  obtained  by  the  inferior  passage  of  the 
8un.  At  5  a.  m.  the  temperature  of  the  water  had  fallen  to  30°,  and 
almost  at  the  same  instant  the  ice  was  rejwrted  from  the  masthead. 
Between  this  time  and  7  a.  m.  (when  we  hove  to  within  half  a  mile  of 
the  pack)  we  ran  10.5,  so  that  1  consider  eleven  miles  to  be  about  the 
distance  that  i)ack  ice  can  be  seen  iu  clear  weather  from  a  ship's  mast- 
head. 

"  The  i)ack  was  of  dirty-colored  ice,  showing  an  outline  without  a 
break  in  it  live  or  six  feet  high,  with  columns  and  pinnacles  much  higher 
some  distance  in.  Although  the  wind  was  off  the  pack,  tlicrt;  was  not  a 
particle  of  loose  or  drift  ice  from  it;  our  soundings  had  gradually  in- 
creased to  thirty-tive  fathoms,  soft  blue  mud.  The  only  living  things 
seen  were  a  pair  of  pinall  divers,  black,  with  a  white  ball  in  the  back, 
and  two  remarkable  birds,  very  much  like  the  female  of  the  tropical 


^ 


im 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


In 


■>Vi 


mi  ri-of-war  b5'd,a  dingy  black  color  with  excessively  long  wiugs,  ai7d 
the  sai.*^  .light  when  soaring.  We  could  not  succeed  in  ahootiug  an,\  of 
either  species.  We  reuiained  hovo-to  oft'  the  pack  for  an  hour.  In  the 
dredge  wc  jrot  niuscles  and  a  few  bivalves  connnoii  to  tlM.'Hc  seas, 

"This  was  our  most  northern  position,  latitude  72^  51'  north,  longi- 
tude 1(58'^  west.  •  The  ice,  as  far  as  it  could  be  seen  from  the  masthead, 
trended  away  west-southwest,  (by  compass,)  Comniander  ]yti)oie  and  the 
ice-master  reporting  a  water  sky  to  the  north  of  the  i)ack,  and  a  strong 
ice  blink  to  the  southwest. 

"It  was  iui possible  to  gain  this  repented  open  water,  as  the  pack  was 
impenetrable.  The  pack  we  had  just  traced  for  forty  leagues  made  i».  a 
Sieries  of  steps  westerly  and  northerly;  the  westerly  beiag  about  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  and  the  northerly  twenty  ndies.  Wc  niado  sail  at  9  a.  m., 
steering  for  tm  coast  a  little  to  the  westward  of  our  track  up;  wiml 
northeast,  gradually  decreasing  as  we  got  southerly. 

"Five  o'cKwk  a.  m. — Fell  a  deail  calm,  the  aea  ghii^sy  smooth,  and  so 
transparent  that  a  w  liite  plate  was  distinctly  seen  at  a  depth  of  eighty  feet. 
As  we  approached  the  coast,  we  again  met  numbers  of  whales,  wtdruses, 
seals,  and  flights  of  ducks  and  sea  biids. 

"July  30,  8  a,  m. — Packed  in-shore  in  eight  fathoms,  close  to  the 
northward  of  the  Blossom  Shoals  off  Icy  Cape" 

Subsequently  the  Herald  pro?3eeded  to  the  westward.  Captain  Kel- 
lett's  journal  continues : 

"  August  1). — In  the  morning  passed  the  carcass  of  a  dead  whale,  and 
another  in  the  afternoon.  I  sent  a  boat  to  this  one,  stuck  a  Hag  in  it,  and 
buried  a  l)ottle  containing  a  cmrent  paper,  a  notice  of  my  whereabouts, 
and  of  my  intention  to  go  westerly,  for  the  information  of  the  Plover, 
should  she  fall  in  with  it.  Many  reports  of  land  from  the  masthead;  a 
land- bird  seen. 

"Having  this  favorable  wind  for  examining  the  pack  by  the  westward, 
I  cx)ntiiiued  to  steer  as  higii  as  the  wind  would  permit  on  the  starboard 
tack.  The  wind  continued  to  lighten  until  the  morniug  of  the  lOth^ 
when  it  fell  to  a  dead  calm. 

"The  sea  was  literally  covered  in  streams  with  particles  of  a  pink 
color,  like  wood  ashes,  or  coarse  sawdust  from  (;edar,  a  tenth  of  an  inch 
long,  and  0."*  in  diameter,  and  round.  On  placing  it  under  t);e  mievoscope 
no  appearajice  of  circulation  could  be  detected.  Mr.  Goodiidge,  the 
surgeon  of  tliis  ship,  supposes  it  to  have  proceeded  from  tliej-aroassesof 
the  whales  he  saw  y^'sterday,  the  oil  having  beep  Ibrced  through  the 
pores  by  the  pressure  of  the  water;  giving  the  iinifoini  si/.e  andslnipe  in 
which  we  found  it.  1  endeavored  to  dry  some  in  blottingpai>er,  but  it 
was  absorbed  by  the  ])ai>er,  and  nothing  left  but  an  oily  stain.  Tried 
the  current,  and  found  it  running  to  the  westward  one  thir <i  of  a  mile  an 
hour;  walruses  grunting  around  in  gvouj>sof  eigld  and  ten  together;  *|uau- 
tities  of  snudi  ]>ieces  of  driftwiwd,  all  pine,  which  a{>p<'a»ed  to  have  hem 
washed  from  some  beach.    The  temi)erature  of  the  water  at  the  siuface 


m 
a 


H 


^  ~ \ r'  "\:jrn'^^T^''"r'yr*^*t"'"r"~.'f~^  -^ 


<-  -^V^T^^pTWy' 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


161 


the 


pink 


in  twenty-nine  fatlioros  was  45°,  and  at  the  bottom  4rP.  The  dredge 
produced  (in  soft  bhie  mud)  a  good  many  umscleSj  star-fish,  (iV)uiid  in  all 
pa,rt8  of  this  sea,)  a  few  bivalves,  (got  before,)  and  sonxe  very  small 
shrim]>s. 

''A  Ijftiit southerly  wind  sprang np,  gradually  increasing,  and  veering 
to  the  eastward.  At  l{)h.  30«!.,  after  standiug  to  tlie  southwest  for  fifteen 
miles,  th«  loom  of  the  land  in  the  neighborhood  of  Nortli  Cape  could  be 
seen,  I  tacked  t«t  the  northeast,  with  a  wind  fresh  from  east-southeast, 
not  wishing  to  run  the  risk  of  being  caught  witli  a  southeaster  between 
the  land  an<i  the  ice  floe,  which  I  considered  c(*ul<l  not  be  far  off,  from 
the  smoothness  of  the  water,  the  imukbers  of  walruses,  and  particularly' 
a  little  black  and  w'nite  diver,  which  v,'e  never  saw  except  in  its  vicinity, 

''August  11. — Steering  until  this  day  in  thick  and  bad  weather  to 
the  northeast,  at  which  time  we  were  in  latitude  70^  1',  longitude  173° 
53'.  liore  up  north  to  endeavor  to  laii  in  with  the  pack.  By  (\  \\  m. 
a  dense  fog  came  on;  we  Inuded  to  the  wind  on  the  port  tack  under 
reduced  sails,  ship  heading  sontheast,  with  a  short  jumping  sea. 

"August  12,  a.  m. — Tlso  wimlHJ.\iftedsuddenly  tonorth-nortlieast,  and 
afterwards  to  north-northwest,  blowing  hard  j  reduced  to  treble  top- 
soils  and  reetisd  foresail,  our  soundings  having  decreased  to  seventeen 
fathoms,  mud.  Ko  t)bservati(>ns.  Dur  reckoning  placed  us  in  latitude 
70"  20',  Kingitude  171^^  23',  in  (fighteeu  fathoms,  sand. 

*''SnoAL. — Shortly  after  noon  our  depth  decreased  to  sixteen  fathoms, 
the  color  of  the  water  becoming  lighter,  with  a  breakiug  sea  all  around. 
Our  soundhigs  de<;reased  a  ftithom  each  cast  until  l/{.  30)w.  p.  m.,  when  we 
"woi-e  in  eleven  fathoms,  shingle,  getting  in  wearing  nine  fathoms,  then 
tAvelve;  and  when  trimmed  to  go  back,  a&  A\e  went  on,  had  several  casts 
of  eight,  and  one  of  seven  fjithoms;  then  suddenly  got  into  fourteen, 
which  gradually  increased.  The  sun  can\e  out,  verifying  our  noon 
position.    Until  midnight  it  blew  a  strong  gale. 

"  August  13,  a,  m. — Fine;  wore  to  stand  back  to  the  shoal.  Shoaled 
our  water  thirteen  fathoms,  and  at  lOA.  I  imagined  I  sjiw  breakers  on  the 
lee  bow.  Ship  refused  stays,  wore,  but  had  no  less  water  at  midnight; 
passed  o\'er  the  tail  of  the  bank  in  eight  fathojiis,  fl>'e  miles  northwest 
of  oiir  formei'  position.  Continued  to  statnd  to  the  eastward  until  1  could 
weather  the  south  end  of  the  shoal;  tl^en  ta<'ked,  passing,  in  sixteen 
fiithoma,  three  miles  south  of  our  first  position.  When  I  l>ore  uj)  north 
to  fix  its  western  edge,  a  slight  eastexiy  ctirrent  took  me  rather  further 
in  that  direction  than  I  hitemUid.  I  have,  however,  confined  it  within 
a  radius  of  five  miles. 

"The  weather  would  not  allow  of  onr  anchoring  so  as  to  nndce  a  clost^r 
examimition  of  the  shoal  with  our  boats,  and  the  sea  was  too  hollow  and 
heavy  to  attempt  taking  the  shijt  herself  into  less  water.    In  approach 
ing  the  shoal,  the  bottom  chaviges  ixoi\i\.  mud  to  fine  sand,  and  when  in 
the  least  wa**sr  coarse  gravel  and  stones.    We  found  nothing  less  than 

11  AD 


ii 


">  i'**^7'T^'^"^5T*.  w5™5;^r??^  ■ 


162 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


m 


1  ; 


seven  fathoms;  but  I  am  of  opiuion  that  a  bank  exists  which  would 
bring  a  ship  up.  ,  .     , 

"August  14. — We  experienced  very  strong,  variable,  and  southeast 
breezes,  with  rain,  until  midnight  of  the  14th,  when  the  wind  changed 
to  the  westward,  and  brought  with  it  fine  weather.  Continued  to  stand 
to  northward  and  westward  until  noon  on  the  15th,  being  in  latitude  71° 
12',  and  longitude  170°  10';  bore  up  west  one-half  south,  passing 
several  pieces  of  drift-wood.  Our  soundings  increased  tis  we  left  the 
bank  (westerly)  to  twenty-five  fathoms,  mud. 

"August  1(5. — Wind  very  variable,  nnd  direction  south-southwest  to 
southeast.  Large  flocks  of  phalaropes ;  divers  and  gulls  numerous.  At 
midtiight  wind  very  fresh  from  south-southeast,  steering  west-southwest ; 
depth  increasing  to  ten  fathoms.  At  3  a.  m.  on  the  17th,  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  sea  fell  from  4(P  to  3(P;  the  wind  light  and  cold.  Shortened 
sail,  sui)posing  that  I  was  very  near  the  ice ;  frequent  snow-showers. 

"At  5  a.  m.  wind  shifted  suddenly  from  the  northwest  in  a  sharp 
squall,  with  heavy  snow.  Shortly  after  8/t.,  when  one  of  these  snow- 
storms cleared  oft',  the  packed  ice  was  seen  from  the  mast-heatj  from 
south-southwest  to  north-northwest,  five  miles  distant.  The  w'eather 
was  so  bad  that  I  bore  up  for  the  rende/A'ous.  The  weather,  however,  as 
suddenly  cleared  up.  I  hauled  my  wiiul  for  the  northwestern  extreme 
of  the  ice  that  had  been  seen.  At  \)h.  40w/.  the  ex(riting  report  of  '  hmd 
ho !'  was  made  from  the  mast-head. 

"  Herald  and  Plover  Islands. — In  running  a  course  along  the  ])ack 
towards  our  first  discovery,  a  small  groui>of  islands  was  reported  on  our 
port  beam,  a  considerable  distance  within  the  outer  margin  of  the  ice. 
Lanes  of  water  could  be  seen  reaching  almost  up  to  the  group,  but  too 
narrow  to  enter  unless  the  ship  had  been  sufticiently  fortified  to  force  a 
hole  for  herself. 

"  These  small  islands  at  intervals  were  very  distinct,  and  were  not 
-considered  at  the  time  very  distant.  Still  mon'  distant  from  this  group 
(from  the  deck)  a  very  extensive  and  high  land  was  reported,  which  I 
had  been  watching  for  some  time,  and  auxiousiy  awaited  a  report  from 
some  one  else.  There  was  a  fine  clear  atmosphere;,  (such  a  one  aw  can 
only  be  seen  in  this  climate,)  except  in  the  direction  of  this  extended 
land,  where  the  clouds  rolled  in  nunu'rous  immense  masses,  occasionally 
leaving  the  very  lofty  peaks  uncapped,  where  could  be  distinctly  seen 
columns  and  i)illars,  very  broken,  which  is  characteristic  of  the  higher 
lieadtands  in  this  sea— East  Ca|)e  and  ('ape  Lisburne,  for  example. 

"  With  the  exception  of  the  northeast  and  southeast  extremes,  none 
of  the  lower  laud  (iould  be  seen,  unless,  indeed,  what  1  took  at  first  for 
a  small  group  of  islands,  within  the  pack  edge,  was  a  point  of  this  gn?at 
island. 

"This  island,  or  point,  was  distant  twenty-five  miles  from  the  ship's 
track,  higher  part«  of  the  land  s«'en  not  less,  I  consider,  than  sixty. 
When  we  hove-tcj  off  the  first  land  seen,  the  northern  extreme  of  the 


.^' 


h 


not 

jjroiip 

icli  i 

IVom 

iH  can 

iu1(mI 

iiiiiUy 


ijulier 


nono 

iKt   lor 
urt^at 


ship's 

sixty. 

of  the 


■  '^■^?'T!S^'i^''S^t^'^W^^^^^"A^-^'^"'^^'^-^^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


163 


great  laud  showed  out  to  the  eastward  for  a  moment,  and  so  clear  as  to 
cause  some  who  had  doubts  before  to  cry  out,  '  There,  sir,  is  the  land, 
quite  plain,' 

"  Fnnn  the  time  land  was  reported  until  we  hove-to  under  it,  we  r.an 
twenty-flve  miles  directly  for  it.  At  tirst  we  could  not  see  that  the  i)ack 
joined  it,  but  as  we  approaclw^d  the  island  we  found  the  pack  to  rest  ou 
the  island,  and  to  extend  from  it  as  far  as  the  eye  coidd  reach  to  the  east- 
southeast. 

"  The  weather,  which  had  been  fine  all  day,  now  chanj^ed  suddenly  to 
dense  clouds  and  snow-showers,  blowing  from  the  south,  with  so  much 
sea  that  I  did  not  anchor  as  I  intended.  I  left  the  ship  with  two  boats; 
the  senior  lieutenant,  Mr.  Maguire,  Mr.  Seemanji,  naturalist,  and  Mr. 
CoUinson,  mate,  in  one;  Mr.  Goodridge,  surgeon,  Mr.  Pakenham,  mid- 
shipman, and  myself,  in  the  other,  almost  despairing  of  being  able  to 
reach  the  island. 

"  The  ship  kept  off  and  on  outside  the  thickest  part  of  the  loose  ice, 
through  which  the  boats  were  obliged  to  be  very  careful  in  picjking  their 
way,  on  the  southeast  side,  where  I  thought  I  might  Jiave  ascended.  We 
reached  the  island,  and  found  running  on  it  a  very  heavy  sea;  the  first 
lieutenant,  however,  landed,  having  backed  his  boat  in  until  he  could 
get  foot-hold,  (without  swimming,)- and  then  jumped  overboard.  I  fol- 
lowed his  example ;  the  others  were  anxious  to  do  the  same,  but  the  sea 
was  so  high  that  I  could  not  permit  them. 

"  We  hoisted  the  jack,  and  took  jjossession  of  the  island,  with  the 
usual  ceremonies,  in  the  name  of  her  most  gracious  Majesty  Queen  Vic- 
toria. 

"The  extent  we  had  to  walk  over  was  not  more  than  thirty  feet. 
From  this  space  and  a  short  distance  that  we  scrambled  up,  we  col- 
lected eight  species  of  plants;  specimens  of  the  rock  were  also  brought 
away. 

"  With  the  time  we  couhl  spare  and  our  materials,  the  island  was  per- 
fectly inaccessible  t-o  us.  This  was  a  great  disappointment,  as  from  its 
sunnnit,  which  is  elevated  above  the  sea  fourteen  hundred  ftfct,  much 
could  have  been  seen,  and  all  doubt  set  a.side,  more  particularly  as  I 
knew  the  nu)ment  I  got  on  bo.lrd  I  should  be  obliged  to  carry  sail  to  get 
off  the  pack  and  out  of  the  bight  of  it  we  were  in;  nor  could  1  expect 
that  at  this  period  of  the  season  the  weather  would  improve. 

"The  island  on  which  1  landed  is  four  and  a  half  miles  in  extent  east 
and  west,  and  about  two  and  a  half  north  and  south,  in  the  shape  of  a 
triangle,  the  western  end  being  its  aj)ex.  It  is  almost  inaccessible  ou  all 
sides,  and  a  solid  mass  of  granite.  Inninnei'able  black  and  wiiite  divers 
(conunon  to  this  sea)  here  found  a  safe  place  to  deposit  their  eggs  and 
bring  up  their  young;  not  a  walrus  or  seal  was  seen  on  its  shore,  or  on 
the  ice  in  its  vicinity.  We  observed  here  none  of  the  small  laud-birds 
that  were  so  numerous  about  us  before  making  the  land. 


^1 


i*Z  ,'v- ^.■••N>7' 


^-  ■,- . ,  trri^i-^  -<* ;."  *>-*  _^i  y<^\  jn+r; 


"^Zp^^^i!^' 


164 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


"  It  becomes  a  nervous  thing  to  report  a  discovery  of  land  in  these 
regions,  without  actually  landing  on  it,  after  the  unfortunate  mistake  to 
the  southward ;  but,  as  far  as  a  man  can  be  certain,  who  has  one  hundred 
and  thirty  pair  of  eyes  to  assist  him,  and  all  agi'eeing,  I  am  certain  we 
have  discovered  an  extensive  land.  I  think,  also,  it  is  more  than  prol>- 
able  that  these  peaks  we  saw  are  a  continuation  of  the  range  of  moun- 
tains seen  by  the  natives  oft'  Cape  Jakan,  (coast  of  Asia,)  mentioned  by 
Baron  Wrangel,  in  his  Polar  Voyages.*  I  returned  to  the  ship,  and 
reluctantly  made  all  the  sail  we  could  carry  trom  this  interesting  neigh- 
borhood to  the  southeast.  ' 

August  20. — Sighted  Cape  Lisburne  in  a  thick  fog ;  hauled  off  to  await 
clear  weather;  jiassed  several  carcasses  of  whales." 

There  is  one  feature  of  this  sea  which  might  api)ear  somewhat  remaik- 
able,  and  that  is  its  shallowness.  There  is  anchorage  almost  all  over  it. 
The  depth  varies  from  twenty  to  thirty  fathoms,  seldom  exceeding  the 
latter ;  the  bottom  composed  of  sand,  mud,  and  stones.  This,  therefore, 
simplifies  the  navigation  during  the  few  weeks  that  it  may  be  said  to  be 
open  to  navigation.  It  has  been  trav<'rsed  in  almost  every  portion ;  and, 
with  the  exception  of  the  shoal  discovered  by  Captain  Kellett,  no  per- 
manent danger  appears  to  exist  in  the  open  space  between  the  shores  of 
the  two  continents. 

THE  COAST  OP  ASIA, 


:^f'-^ 


The  merit  of  discovery  of  this  coast  is  due  to  bchring,  as  we  have 
rei>eatedly  remarked  previously.  It  had  been  slightly  and  cursorily 
examined  by  few  sub8e([uent  to  that  gieat  navigator's  firet  voyage  until 
Captain  Cook  saw  it,  and  tirst  declared  its  true  diameter.  Captains 
Clerkeand  Kingpjissed  along  it  iu  the  following  year.  Captain  Kotze- 
bue,  in  the  liurick.  Captains  Billings,  Saryts«;heft',  and  WrangeJ,  also 
added  slightly  to  our  previous  acquaintance.  But  all  these  autiiorities 
collectively  gave  a  very  vague  and  imperfect  notion  of  the  whole,  and 
but  little*  serviceable  for  navigation  could  be  gleaned  from  their  works., 

All  this,  however,  was  obviated  by  the  surveying  expedition  under 
Captain  (afterwards  Bear  Admiral)  Liitke,  whose  excellent  and  ample 
work  leaves  little  to  desire.  This  expedition,  which  left  St.  Petersburg 
iu  August,  1826,  consisted  of  two  corvettes,  the  MoUer,  under  Capi'^in 
Stinikowitch,  and  the  Seniavine,  under  Captain  Liitke.  The  operatiof»3 
of  the  latter  are  our  present  object.  After  making  many  excellent  ob- 
servations in  the  North  Pacifl<?,  he  proce^Mled  to  Awatska  Bay,  and 
thencje  surveyed  the  greater  portion  of  the  coast«  of  Kamtschatka  and 

Eastern  Asia  to  the  northward,  as  far  iw  the  East  Cape  of  Behring 

*-"■"* — '       — - — '— -* '-  1 ^— ^ 

"  There  is  nil  iioconnt  of  this  laud  vxtunt,  in  which  it  is  stated  that  Androcf  readied 
it  in  biudara  iu  176S;  that  it  iv  cullod  Tikigou,  and  inhabitisd  by  a  roou  oallcMl  Khra- 
hay. 


->WW^' 


w"'»'?™S!r^5S'f!W«W«SpK!9PJW^^ 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


165 


>>ii 


sV>ur{? 


ob- 
,  and 

uiul 
uing 


pache«l 
Khia- 


Strait.    The  account  of  this  voyage  has  furiiislied  us  with  most  of  the 
subsequent  particulars.* 

The  TcHUKTCHis,  the  inhabitants  of  Eastern  Asia,  may  demand  a 
short  notice  here.  Of  all  the  Asiatic  races  inhabiting  Siberia,  these  are 
the  only  ones  that  have  not  submitted  to  the  tribute  of  peltries  demanded 
by  the  liussians. 

The  Tchuktchis  inhabit  the  northeastern  jiart  of  Asia,  extending  from , 
Tchauu  Bay  to  Behring  Straits  in  one  direction,  and  in  the  other  from 
the  Anadyr,  and  the  upper  coasts  of  the  Aniui,  to  the  Polar  Sea.  To 
the  south  are  the  Koriaks,  and  to  the  west  the  Tchuwanzes  and  Juka- 
hirs  of  the  Aniui.  They  foimerly  occupied  a  more  extensive  territory, 
before  the  Cossacks.  The  Tchuktchis,  though  still  in  a  great  measure  a 
uoniad  Ki-ee,  have  less  of  the  characteristics  which  usually  accompany 
such  a  mode  of  life  than  the  wandering  Tunguses ;  they  .are  more  cov- 
etous and  more  8a\ing  thjin  belongs  to  the  character  of  the  genuine 
nomad  races.  They  lay  up  stores  for  the  future,  and  in  general  do  not 
remove  their  dwelliugs  without  an  object,  but  onlj-  when  it  is  necessary 
to  seek  fresh  pasture  for  their  reindeer.  They  are  disgraced  by  the  most 
shameless  liceutioiisnews.t 

Captain  Liitke  has  given  a  detailed  account  of  these  people  in  his 
woik-  He  states  that  under  this  name  are  designated  two  distinct  races, 
distiiiot  in  mode  of  life,  in  language,  and  in  appearance :  the  one  nomad 
or  wandering,  which  he  terms  the  Reindeer  Tcihuktchis;  the  other  dwell- 
ing in  flxed  hal)it>iMons  on  the  sea-side,  called  the  Sedentary  Thuckt- 
cliis.  The  flrst  are  tlu?  same  people  as  the  Kariaks  or  Koriaks,  to  the 
southward,  only  with  some  slight  dilferences.  The  first  call  themselves 
Tchiu>ukthous,  the  second  Namollos.  They  have  been  found  to  be  more 
friendly  tluin  earlier  writers  have  given  them  credit  for,  and  were  ser- 
viceabk  to  Captain  Moore  wlien  he  anclu)re»l  here  in  1848~'49.  A  good 
notion  may  be  formed  of  their  habits  ami  appearance  from  the  works  of 
Cook,  Billings,  and  Liitke. 

Cape  North  of  Captain  Cook,  or  Ir-Kaipie,  a<?cordiug  to  Admiral  von 
Wraiigel,  is  the  most  northern  point  of  the  Asiatic  coast  that  was  made 
by  Captain  Cook  in  coming  westward  from  the  opposite  shores  of  Amer- 
ica, AugUvSt,  1778;  hence  its  lunue.  The  land  here  is,  in  every  respect, 
says  Cook,  like  thaf,  of  the  oi)j»08ite  out?  of  Anuaica ;  that  is,  low  laud 
next  the  sea,  witli  elevated  lands  further  back.  It  was  perfectly  desti- 
tute of  wooil  and  even  snow ;  but  was,  probably,  covered  with  a  mossy 
substanc<^,  that  gave  it  a  brownish  cast.  In  the  low  ground,  lying  be- 
tween the  high  land  and  the  sea,  was  a  lake  extending  to  the  southeast 
further  than  could  be  seen.  The  lan<l,  on  first  nmking  it,  showed  itself  in 
two  hills  like  islands,  but  afterwards  tlie  whole  appeared  connected,  the 


*  Voyiifje  Antour  «lii  Monde  «ur  hi  Corvctto  Iai  Souifiviiu-,  lH2(v-'27-'28-'29,  )>ar  Frod- 
iTic  mtke,  Ciii»tiiin  dn  Viinh,  &.v.,  triciNluicd  (into  Frciicli)  from  tlio  original  KiiHsiuu, 
by  foils.  J.  hoy6.    3  vols,,  Pnv'w,  1835;  nnd  I'lirtio  Naiiti»iue,  St.  PoterHburg,  1836. 

t  Sec  WruMgcl'H  Expediliona  iu  Northern  Sibeiiii,  truuHltittMl  by  Mrs.  Snbiue,  p.  357. 


,/ 


S»^5?^*ffl!!PCT  3? 


166 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


western  extreme,  terminating  in  a  bluflf  point,  being'  one  of  these  bills. 
As  he  stood  off  again,  the  westernmost  of  the  two  hills  came  open  off 
the  bluff  point  in  the  direction  of  northwest.  It  had  the  appearance  of 
beinjj  an  island;  but  it  might  be  joined  to  the  other  by  low  land, 
though  it  was  not  seen.  If  so,  there  is  a  twofold  point,  with  a  bay 
between  them.  This  point,  which  is  steep  and  rocky,  was  named  Cape 
•North. 

Cape  Forth,  or  Ir-Kaipie,  is  in  latitude  68°  55'  16''.  The  longitude, 
dependent  on  that  o^'  C.  Jakan,  is  170°  57'  east;  variation  21°  40'  east* 
This  was  ascertained  by  Admiral  von  Wrangel,  in  his  fourth  Siberian 
expedition,  April  22,  1823.  Here  terminated  tlie  expedition,  which  re- 
turned to  the  westward,  towards  St.  Pet^rsbiu-g.* 

The  coast  to  the  southeast  of  this  is  represented  from  the  Russian 
charts ;  the  names  and  details  there  given  will  be  suflflcient  for  the  guid- 
ance of  those  who  may  chance  to  visit  this  inho8i)itable  country.  The 
most  graphic  descriptions  are  those  of  Captain  Cook,  with  which  we 
have  commenced.    His  subsequent  remarks  will  till  up  all  deficiency. 

He  made  the  land  again  to  the  southeast  of  that  previously  described, 
a  very  low  point  or  spit  bearing  south-southwest  two  or  three  miles  dis- 
tant, to  the  east  of  which  there  appeared  to  be  a  narrow  channel,  lead- 
ing into  some  water  that  was  seen  over  the  point.  Probably  the  lake 
before  mentioned  communicates  here  with  the  sea. — (Vol.  ii,  pp.  406-7.) 

According  to  the  chart,  it  would  appear  to  be  the  various  branches  of 
the  mouths  of  the  river  Ekehtagh,  the  outer  points  of  which  are  named 
Points  Emua-en  and  Tenkourguin,  that  are  here  referred  to. 

Still  further  eastward  some  parts  ai)peared  higher  than  others;  but  in 
general  it  was  very  low,  with  high  land  up  the  country,  (p.  407.)  In  this 
part  the  rivers  Kental,  Amguina,  and  Vankarenm,  debouch. 

Burney  or  Koliutchin  Island  (south  point)  is  in  latitude  67°  27',  longi- 
tude 175°  36'  west.  Its  first  name  was  giv  en  by  Cook.  It  is  about  four 
or  five  miles  in  circuit,  of  a  middling  height,  with  a  steep  rocky  coast, 
situated  about  three  leagues  from  the  main.  The  inland  country,  here- 
abouts, is  full  of  hills,  some  of  which  are  of  considerable  height. 

Cape  Serdze  Kamen,  in  latitude  07°  12',  longitude  188°  20'  east,  is 
the  extent  to  which  IJehring  reached,  August  15, 1728.  Here  he  thought 
that  it  was  time  to  think  of  his  retuin,  "  as  it  was  not  advisable  to  win- 
ter in  these  parts,  since  the  well-known  want  of  wood  in  all  the  north- 
erly regions  towards  the  frozen  sea,  the  savages  of  the  country  not  yet 
reduwMi  to  the  obedience  of  the  Itussian  goverinnent,  and  the  steep 
rocks  everywhere  found  along  the  shore,  between  which  there  wjis  not 
anchorage  nor  har))or,  rendered  it  too  dangerou8."t  liy  this  voyage,  how- 
ever, he  established  the  fact  of  the  separation  of  the  Americaii  and 
Asiatic  continents. 

Captain  Cook  says :  "  The  coast  seemed  to  form  several  ro(5ky  points, 


•  Wrangel,  tranH.  by  Mrs.  Sabiuo,  p.  355. 

1  MUllcr,  Voyuges  et  D6couverte8  des  RuHses,  p.  4. 


jiun<pmpuiii.i|ii)piiji 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


167 


connected  by  a  low  shore,  without  the  least  appearance  of  a  harbor. 
At  some  distance  from  the  sea  tlio  low  laud  appeared  to  swell  into  a 
number  of  hills.  The  highest  of  these  were  covered  with  snow,  and  in 
other  respects  the  whole  country  seemed  naked.  At  seven  in  the  eve- 
ning two  points  of  land,  at  some  distance  beyond  the  eastern  head, 
opened  off  in  the  direction  of  south  37°  east.  I  was  now  well  assured  of 
what  I  'x^lieved  before,  that  this  was  the  country  of  the  Tchuktchi,  or 
the  northeast  coast  of  Asia,  and  that  thus  far  Behring  proceeded  in  1728  ; 
that  is,  to  this  head,  which  Miiller  says  is  called  Serdze  Kamen,  on  ac- 
count of  a  rock  upon  it  shaped  like  a  heart.  But  I  conceive  that  M. 
Miiller's  knowledge  of  the  geogi^aphy  of  these  parts  to  be  very  imper- 
fect. There  are  many  elevated  rocks  ui)on  this  cape,  and  possibly  some 
one  or  other  of  them  may  havy  the  shape  of  a  heart.  It  is  a  pretty 
lofty  promontory,  \vitli  a  steep  rocky  cliff  facing  the  sea.  To  the  east- 
ward of  it  the  coast  is  high  and  bold,  but  to  the  westward  it  is  low,  and 
trends  north-northwest  and  northwest  by  west,  which  is  nearly  the  direc- 
tion all  the  way  to  Cape  North.  The  soundings  are  everywhere  the  same 
at  an  e(pial  distance  from  the  shore,  which  is  also  the  case  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  America.  The  greatest  depth  Ave  found  in  ranging  along  it  was 
twenty-three  fathoms ;  aiul  hi  the  night,  or  in  foggy  weather,  the  sound- 
ings are  no  bad  guide  in  sailing  along  either  of  these  shores."* 

East  Cape,  the  extremity  of  Asia,  has  been  mentioned  before  as 
forming,  with  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  the  westernmost  point  of  America, 
the  narrowest  part  of  Behring  Strait.  It  is  a  peninsula  of  considerable 
height,  joined  to  the  continent  by  a  very  low,  and,  to  appearance,  nar- 
row neck  of  land.  It  shows  a  steep,  rocky  cliff  against  the  sea;  and  off 
the  extreme  point  are  some  rocks  like  spires.  It  is  in  latitude  OOo  3' 
north,  longitude  lG9o  44'  west.  From  its  general  appearance  it  might 
be  taken  for  an  island,  and  this  doubtless  occasioned  an  error  in  the 
number  of  the  St.  Diomede  Islands  lying  off"  it. 

St.  Lawrence  Bay  lies  to  the  southwest  of  East  Cape,  and  was  so 
iiame<l  by  Cook,  he  having  anchored  in  it  on  St.  Lawrence's  day,  August 
10,  1778.  It  is  renmrkable  that  Behring  sailed  past  it  just  half  a  cen- 
tury before,  that  is,  August  10,  1728,  on  which  account  the  neighboring 
island  was  called  St.  Lawrence  Island.  "This  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence  is 
at  least  live  leagues  broad  at  the  entrance,  and  four  leagues  deep,  nar- 
rowing towards  the  bottom,  where  it  appeared  to  be  tolerably  well  shel- 
tered from  the  sea  winds,  provided  there  be  a  sufficient  depth  of  water 
for  ships.  I  did  not  wait  to  examine  it,  although  I  was  very  desirous  of 
finding  a  harbor  in  those  parts,  to  which  I  nj'ght  resort  next  spring. 
But  1  wanted  one  where  wood  might  be  got,  am.  I  knew  that  none  was 
to  be  found  here,  "t 

The  bay  was  minutely  surveyed  by  Captain  Liitke  in  July,  1828,  and 
here  commence  the  sailing  directions  given  by  that  navigator.    Cape 

*  Cook's  Third  Voyu/^«),  vol.  ii,  pp.  468, 469. 
t  Cook,  vol.  ii,  p.  47a. 


-i  1; 


■  y^i!!i;Wi(fl^^?WI»TO'^.^'W 


168 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


r* 


if  V 


NouTiiagmo  is  the  northeast  extreniity  of  St.  Lawreuce  Bay.  It  is  dis- 
tinguished by  a  remaikable  hill,  not  from  its  elevation  but  from  its 
rounded  summit.  Cape  Krleougoun,  which  forms  the  southwest  extrem- 
ity, is  eleven  and  a  half  miles  south  52°  west  from  it.  The  western  slope 
of  this  mountain  declines  very  gradually  to  form  a  large  opening,  through 
which  runs  a  rapid  but  shallow  river,  on  which  is  a  village  of  stationary 
Tchuktchis,  named  Nouniagmo.  It  is  two  miles  from  the  cape  of  the 
name.  Cape  Pnaougoun,  beyond  which  commences  the  interior  bay,  is 
three  and  a  half  miles  west  by  north  from  this  village.  Between  these 
the  shores  are  level  and  low,  terminating  abruptly  at  the  sea-shore. 
From  these  escarpments,  entirely  covered  with  snow  in  July,  avalanches 
were  constantly  falling  with  great  noise.  Not  a  single  shrub  breaks  the 
monotony  of  the  interior  plains. 

The  opposite  shores  are  similar  to  this,  but  rather  higher.  Cape 
Krleougoun  is  high  and  very  steep;  beyond  it  the  coast  turns  rap- 
idly to  the  northwest,  towards  Mit(!higmeusk  Bay.  Upon  this  cape 
there  is  a  mountain  very  remarkable  from  some  sharp  peaks.  It  is  a 
very  well  determined  position  on  the  chart.  The  cape  is  in  latitude  05° 
29'  40"  north,  and  longitude  171°  0'  west.*  At  half  a  mile  from  its 
extremity  is  a  large  village.  »'.c..^.ys 

From  this  cape  the  coast  extends,  rounding  to  the  north  northeast  and 
north  for  seven  miles,  where  a  bed  of  gravel  projects,  forming  a  tolera- 
bly large  lake.  It  is  three  and  a  half  miles  south  58°  west  from  Cape 
Pnaougoun,  and  may  be  taken  as  the  other  point  of  the  inner  bay. 
Above  it  is  a  large  village. 

The  depth  in  the  center  of  the  bay  is  twenty-seven  fathoms.  Against 
the  north  shore,  at  the  distance  of  one  to  two  miles,  there  are  five,  six, 
and  nine  fathoms,  sand  and  gravel.  Further  off,  and  nearer  the  center, 
it  rapidly  increases.  At  one  or  one  and  a  half  mile  from  the  south  shore 
there  are  from  seven  to  twelve  fathoms,  muddy  bottom;  on  approach- 
ing the  inner  bay  the  depth  increases,  and  opposite  the  bed  of  gravel 
there  are  twenty-three  fathoms.  No  indication  of  reefs  or  dangers  was 
perceived. 

These  gravel  deposits  will  be  found  to  be  so  frequent  in  occurrence 
that  they  certainly  form  a  moiety  of  the  entire  coast  between  East  Cape 
and  the  south  extremity  of  Lopatka.  A  summary  description  of  them 
may  therefore  be  here  given.  What  is  meant  by  a  bed  of  gravel  is  a  for- 
mation or  collection  of  shingle,  rising  from  a  few  inches  to  six  or  seven 
feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  They  are  generally  covered  with  a 
turfy  moss  and  plants  similar  to  those  on  the  land.  They  generally  ex- 
tend in  a  straight  line,  or  gradually  and  slightly  curve.  They  sometimes 
form  distinct  islands,  and  sometimes  join  on  to  the  continent,  forming 
the  coast  itself,  or  else  points  projecting  from  it.  Their  breadth  varies ; 
some  are  almost  washed  over  by  the  sea,  and  none  exceed  a  mile. 

•  Tlio  longitudes  by  Captain  Liltke,  between  Eiist  Cape  and  Cape  Tcliax)liue,  have 
been  placed  10'  further  east,  to  accord  with  the  charts.  \ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


169 


have 


There  is  generally  a  great  depth  on  their  edges,  and  frequently  at  ten  or 
twelve  yards  off  there  are  four  or  five  fathoms.  At  two  or  three  miles 
off,  the  depth  gradually  increases,  the  bottom  frequently  muddy  ;  so  that 
wherever  one  of  these  gravel  beds  is  met  with  on  the  coast,  so  sure  are 
you  to  find  anchorage.  Nevertheless  it  sometimes  occurs  that  detached 
jind  similarly  deep  banks  lie  before  these.  In  digging  holes  in  these 
banks  water  is  found  at  the  level  of  the  sea,  but  always  among  the 
shingle. 

Such  shingle  banks  are  met  with  in  other  regions,  but  nowhere  so 
frequently  as  in  the  Seas  of  Behring  and  Okhotsk.  They  are  seen  at 
every  step,  and  a  glance  is  sufficient  to  demonstrate  that  they  are  formed 
by  the  sea,  but  in  what  manner  is  not  so  evident. 

The  inner  bay  extends  west-northwest  and  northwest  for  nineteen 
miles,  and  throughout  maintains  nearly  an  equal  breadth  of  three  and 
a  half  iniles.  The  opening  is  rather  narrowed  by  a  low  gravel-bed, 
at  half  a  mile  west  of  Cape  Pnaougoun.  Its  highest  part  is  covered 
with  a  turfy  and  humid  moss,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a  lake  of  fresh 
water — a  strsiuge  circumstance.  Its  distance  from  the  South  Cape  is 
two  and  a  quarter  miles.  Ilere  is  the  chief  entrance ;  there  are  more 
than  twenty-seven  fathoms  water,  and  no  danger.  In  the  east  passage 
there  are  not  more  than  eleven  feet  water. 

Cape  Pnaougoun  and  the  coast,  for  a  mile  distant,  are  formed  by  a 
bed  of  grav^el;  further  off,  though  low,  it  is  perpendicular,  and  covered 
with  snow.  Extending  from  Cape  Pnaougoun  to  tluj  north-northeast 
and  northwest  it  forms  a  cove,  one  and  a  half  mile  long  and  wide,  in 
which  is  secure  anchorage.  Captain  Kotzebue  Stays:  "At  twelve  miles 
from  the  entrance,  the  bay  takes  a  northwest  direction.  At  three  miles 
further  are  two  high  and  steep  islands;  the  easternmost  was  named 
Chramtschenko;  the  other  and  smaller  one,  Petrof  Isle,  from  the  first 
and  second  pilots  of  the  Kurick.  The  bay  terminates  in  a  circular  and 
shallow  cove,  in  which  two  small  rivers  throw  their  cataracts  of  the 
purest  water.'' 

At  the  extremity  of  St.  Lawrence  Bay  the  termination  of  a  chain  of 
high  and  peaked  mountains  abuts,  which  has  every  appearance  of  being 
a  branch  of  the  chain  traversing  the  Tchuktchis  country  from  east  to 
west,  and  joining  the  Stanovoi  chain. 

But  few  birds  or  fish,  for  provision,  were  seen  here;  a  few  salmon 
were  all  that  were  procured.  But  these  privations  were  amply  compen- 
sated by  the  abundance  of  reindeer  which  may  be  procured  from  the 
wandering  Tchuktchis,  always  near  the  coast  in  the  autumn,  for  iron 
articles,  &c.,  or,  above  all,  for  tobacco. 

A  large  quantity  of  sea-calves  and  morses'are  brought  hither  in  the 
winter  upon  the  ice.  Fresh  water  is  to  be  had,  and  of  very  excellent 
quality,  but  not  everywhere  readily  procurable.  Captain  Liltke  took 
his  from  a  brook  one  mile  from  Cape  Pnaougoun;  it  may  be  taken  from 
the  beach  by  means  of  a  hose;  on  the  other  hand,  not  a  morsel  of  wood 


i\ 


■*i«*«f!l>WJi!S«w;Y'««»<'!-«,wiJ*?V*^^ 


170 


ALA8KA    DIRECTORY. 


■  if 


can  be  pot.  It  ia  worthy  of  remark  that,  althoupli  the  oi)posite  or 
American  coast  abounds  with  it,  both  tfrowiug  and  drift,  not  a  single 
piece  is  brought  liere  by  the  sea.  The  tides  are  very  insignificant;  the 
greatest  difference  observed  was  fifteen  incites;  and  were  usually  very 
irregular.  As  near  as  could  be  ascertained,  the  establish /nent  of  the 
port  was  4^.  20m.  It  is  said  that  it  never  rises  more  than  four  feet  in  the 
autumn,  when  strong  gales  occur.  The  currents  are  strong,  but  api)ar- 
ently  as  irregular  as  the  tides.  Winds  generally  light;  those  between 
south  and  east  bring  the  fog,  and  those  from  the  north  or  northwest 
dissipate  it. 

The  observations  made  upon  the  bed  of  gravel  make  its  west  point 
latitude  Ooo  37'  30"  north,  and  longitude  170°  53'  30"  west;  the  latter 
dift'ering  half  a  degree  from  Kotzebue's  position.  Variation,  24P  4'  east; 
dip,  76°  42'. 

Metchigmensk  Bay. — From  Cape  Krleougoun  the  coast  turns  rap- 
idly in  the  northwest  p.art,  and,  curving  in  an  open  bay,  extends  for 
twenty  miles  to  the  west  to  a  moderately  elevated  but  very  steep  cape, 
on  which  is  the  large  village  of  Lugren.  Up  to  this  the  coast  is  covered 
with  moss,  and  rises  insensibly  to  uniform  hills.  The  coa>>t  up|)eared 
clear,  without  any  danger.  A  bed  of  giiivel,  separating  Metchigmensk 
Bay  from  the  sea,  extends  from  Cape  Lugren  for  twenty  miles  to  the 
west,  curving  to  the  south. 

The  entrance  to  the  bay  is  very  difficult,  from  its  narrowness  and  the 
lowness  of  the  points  forming  it.  Before  making  them  out,  the  people 
on  them  will  be  seen,  as  if  walking  on  the  water.  Besides  this,  the 
entrance  is  so  placed  that  its  opening  cannot  be  made  out  until  it  is 
brought  to  bear  northwest  by  compass,  and  consequently  when  near  the 
western  side.  It  must  thus  be  sought  from  the  mast-head,  like  the 
opening  to  a  coral  reef,  which,  in  foggy  weather,  is  impracticable.  The 
village  of  Igouan  (called  Agutkino  on  Billings's  plan,  which  was  found 
correctly  delineated)  would  be  a  good  guide  if  it  were  permanent,  but  it 
is  only  there  in  summer. 

The  village  of  Metchigm,  on  the  west  side,  at  two  miles  from  the 
point  of  the  gravel  bed,  is  a  sure  mark.  The  winter  yourts  show  them- 
selves by  a  thick  verdure  on  and  arouiul  them.  The  best  nmrk  to  find 
the  entrance  is  a  cape  on  the  north  of  the  bay,  which,  on  the  continental 
side,  projects  to  the  south.  It  is  tolerably  high,  even,  and  ends  in  a  low 
point  to  the  southwest,  appearing,  at  a  distance,  like  two  or  three 
islands.  The  northernmost  and  longest  of  these  ai)parent  islands,  which 
is  distinguished  by  a  cliff,  lies  west-northwest  by  compass  from  the 
entrance.  Bringing  it  on  this  bearing,  and  steering  for  it,  you  go  right 
for  the  entrance.  The  Bay  of  Metchigmensk  penetrates  the  land  for  a 
great  distance,  but  it  was  not  explored.  The  remarks  as  to  supplies  at 
St.  Lawrence  Bay  equally  a])ply  to  this.  The  entrance  of  the  bay  was 
assumed  to  be  in  latitude  65°  30'  30"  north,  and  longitude  172°  west. 

The  bed  of  gravel  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  of 


)   "• 


J 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


171 


the 
lem- 
tind 
ental 
a  low 
three 
vhich 
n  the 
right 
for  a 
ies  at 
was 
west, 
ee  of 


Metehlgmenak  Bay  extoiula  Ave  or  six  miles  to  the  northwesi;  about 
half  way  it  is  cut  by  a  rivulet  in  the  southwest  angle  of  tlie  bay,  through 
which  the  TiOmktehis  say  th<ir  baidars  ah)ne  can  pass. 

At  fifteen  miles  f'om  Met(  ligmenak  Bay,  Cape  Kluiluetkin  projects, 
very  remarkable  foi  a  round  topped  mountain.  To  the  south  of  the  capo 
is  Jb'Iiaghyn  Bay,  surrounded  by  a  very  low  coast,  ai>parently  termina- 
ting in  an  inner  bay,  but  of  no  importance. 

Thence  the  coast  turns  to  southeast  toCapeNygtchygan.  whi(!h,  from 
north  and  northeast,  at  fifteen  miles  distant,  appears  to  W:  an  island,  on 
account  of  the  lowness  of  the  land  bet\Neen  it  and  lleliaghyn  Bay.  It  is 
steep;  to  the  northwest  of  it  a  bed  of  gravel  exteiuls  three  or  four 
miles,  which  unites  at  its  other  cud  to  the  coast,  forming  a  lake  or  bay. 
Beyond  Cai)e  Nygtchygan  is  the  opening  of  the  extensive  Strait  of 
Sdniavine. 

Strait  of  S^^niavine. — The  existence  of  this  remarkable  strait  was 
not  suspected  until  the  voyage  of  Captain  Llitke,  who  ap]>lied  the  name 
of  his  vessel  to  it.  The  entrance  was  noticed  by  Behring  as  a  gulf. 
Cook  took  it  to  be  a  shallow  bay.*  Captain  Sarytschetf  also  saw  it 
tnrough  the  fog. 

Seniavine  Strait  is  formed  by  two  large  islands,  Arakamtchetchen 
and  Ittygran.  It  runs  first  towards  the  southwest,  then  south,  and  to 
the  east,  nearly  thirty  miles,  and  from  six  miles  to  half  a  mile  in  breadth. 
Its  entrance  is  between  Capes  Neegtchan  and  Kougouan,bearing  south  one- 
half  east  and  north  one-half  west,  five  milesai)art.  p]ach  of  them  is  <listin- 
guished  by  tolerably  high  mountains.  Ne<'gtchan  lies  some  distance  from 
the  coast ;  but  Kougouan  falls  perpendicularly  into  the  sea,  and  was  distin- 
guished by  Cook.  Cape  Neegtchan,  in  latitude  04°  55'  30"  north,  and 
longitude  172°  17'  30"  west,  is  the  northern  limit  of  the  strait;  as  Cape 
Mertens,  in  latitude  64°  33'  15",  and  longitude  172"  20',  is  its  southern 
extremity. 

At  two  miles  from  Cape  Neegtchan  is  the  small  river  Maritch.  Its 
mouth  is  a  good  harbor  for  small  vessels,  as  they  can  moor  against  the 
land.  The  current  runs  strongly  out  of  it,  but  it  is  not  deep  far  up  it. 
Nejir  the  month,  to  the  northwest,  is  the  Tchuktchi  village,  Yaniakiuon. 
Penkegnei  Bay  extends  beyond  the  entrance,  first  northwest  one-quarter 
west  five  miles,  then  as  far  to  southwest  one-quarter  south,  then  two 
miles  to  west.  It  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  advancing  to  the 
coast  its*^lf.  It  is  deep  and  safe,  but,  from  being  so  far  from  the  sea,  is 
inconvenient. 

The  continentfil  coast  from  this  bay  runs  six  miles  to  south  jind  south- 
west to  Abolecheflf  Bay,  i>artly  steep,  partly  sloping,  but  mountainous 
throughout.  Its  opening  is  in  front  of  the  south  point  of  Arakamtch- 
etchen Island,  and  it  extends  six  miles  to  the  west  and  west- southwest. 
Its  breadth  is  one  to  one  and  a  half  mile.  Its  north  shore  consists  of 
a  gravel  bed,  behind  which,  at  a  short  distance,  high  mountains  rise, 

*  Cook's  Third  Voyage,  vol  ii,  p.  472. 


\ 


TTn«»»?w»Ti,iifuj»He»vf.W>»(«lPWJl^<^Jii;Wt.,|F!,lf|«i^||i!lFf|i 


172 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


I* 


% 


9 


ainoiii;  whidi  Taglookou  is  roimirkiiblo  for  itH  perfectly  conical  Hiiiainit. 
The  iijjper  i>art  of  the  bay  is  HurrouiuhHl  by  a  very  low  audHaiidy  Hhore. 
Tliere  is  jifood  anchorage  throughout  abovt;  the  second  cape;  but  to  be 
perfectly  sheltered  you  must  double  the  third  cape,  and  lie  in  seventeen 
to  nineteen  fathoms,  sticky  mud.  Fresh  water  abounds  everywhere,  but 
no  wood  to  be  obtained. 

From  the  first  or  southeast  capo  of  AbolechetV  Hay  the  coast  runs  five 
miles  to  southwest  one  quarter  south,  and  ft)rnisa  bay  open  to  the  north- 
northeast.  The  surrounding  mountains  will  not  permit  a  ray  of  the  sun 
to  penetrate  into  it:  it  is,  therefore,  cold,  somber,  and  frozen.  From 
this  icy  bay  the  coast  runs  three  miles  to  the  east,  and  api)roaches  the 
west  extremity  of  Ittygran  Island.  A  bay  on  the  latter  corresponds  to 
a  gravel  bed  running  to  the  northeast,  and  is  nuide  renuirkable  by  the 
high  pyramidal  mountain,  Elpynghyn ;  the  two  together  form  a  shel- 
tered harbor,  with  nine  to  twenty  fathoms. 

From  the  mountain  Elpynghyn  the  coast  trends  evenly  to  east  and 
easfy-southeast  for  six  nules;  then  with  steep,  reddish  clit!'s,  two  miles 
further  to  Cape  Merteus,  the  south  termination  of  Seniavine  Strait. 

('APE  Mertens  is  high,  steep,  and  is  distinguished  by  a  mountain 
with  three  summits.  Between  it  and  the  Eli)yngliyn  Mountain  there  is 
no  shelter. 

AuAKAMTCHETCHEN  ISLAND,  the  largest  of  the  islands  forming  the 
Strait  of  S^niaviue,  is  sixteen  miles  long  from  southwest  to  northeast, 
and  eight  and  a  lialf  nnles  in  its  greatest  breadth.  From  the  south- 
west point  to  nearly  one-half  its  length  it  is  traversed  by  a  chain  of  hills, 
moderately  high,  with  flattened  summits ;  the  highest  of  which.  Mount 
Athos,  has  two  separate  granitic  rocks  crowning  its  summit  a  short  dis- 
tance apart.  This  was  one  of  the  most  important  points  in  Captain 
liUtke's  examination ;  from  its  top  they  h.ad  a  superb  view,  extending  all 
over  the  strait,  from  Cape  Nouneagino  in  the  north,  to  St.  Lawrence 
Island  in  the  south.  Cape  Kyghynin,  the  east  point  of  the  island,  and 
the  easternmost  point  of  the  land  forming  the  Strait  of  Sdniavine,  is  in 
latitude  04°  4G'  north,  and  longitude  172°  7'  west,  and  twenty-eight  miles 
due  east  of  the  bottom  of  Penkegnei  Bay,  its  western  extremity. 

Cai)e  Kougouan,  the  north  point  of  the  island,  forms,  with  Cape 
Keegtchan,  the  north  entrance  of  the  strait,  to  which  the  natives  give 
the  name  of  Tchiarloun. 

Port  Eatmanoff,  at  two  miles  southwest  from  Cape  Kougouan,  is  the 
port.  It  is  small  but  good,  and  is  preferable  to  all  others  on  account  of 
its  proximity  to  the  sea.  It  is  easy  to  make  out  by  Cape  Kougouan  and 
another  cape  equally  steep  but  lower,  at  three  and  a  half  miles  west- 
southwest  from  it ;  Port  Katmanolf  is  midway  between  them.  The  port 
is  formed  by  a  gravel  bed,  extending  one  thousand  yards  west-southwest 
from  the  coast  it  joins.  A  portion  of  the  space  behind  it,  one  auu  a  half 
cable's  length  in  diameter,  has  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  I'eet  water,  muddy 
bottorii.    Vessels  can  moor  to  the  gravel  bed,  wher^  neither  wind  nor 


ALASKA   DIRECTOKY. 


173 


the 
It  of 
laud 

kst- 
port 

rest 
half 
lady 

iior 


bwpII  can  incommode  tlicm.  At  two  and  a  half  cabU^n'  longtli  from  the 
south  jMiint  of  the  bed  of  {gravel  is  an  isohited  Hand-bank,  with  ei^iit 
feet  water  over  it;  tliis  point  must  therefon^  be  kept  not  more  than  one 
liuridred  and  Hfty  or  two  hundred  yanls  otf  iu  rounding  it.  Water  nuiy 
be  got  from  a  rivulet  at  the  south  point. 

Cape  Paghelian,  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  island,  is  eight  miles 
from  this  ])ort,  the  (!oast  between  being  nearly  straight.  There  is  good 
anchorage  in  this  sliglit  bay  fornu'd  by  it,  and  tolerable  Mhelter.  The 
whole  of  the  coast  is  low  and  strong.  Cape  Paghelian  is  the  extremity 
of  a  bed  of  sandy  gravel,  extending  five  hundred  yards  south,  74°  west 
from  tht5  southwest  extremity  of  the  islatul  itself.  It  is  scarcely  above 
the  surface  of  the  water.  From  its  commencement  the  rocky  shores  run 
one  and  a  half  mile  to  the  east,  rising  quickly  to  form  the  Meinghyn- 
gai  Mountain,  conspicuous  from  its  rounded  toj).  Then  begins  a  gravel 
bed,  which,  trending  in  a  curve  to  southeast  and  southwest,  forms  the 
excellent  road  of  Glasenapj).  The  extremity  of  this  gi'avel  bed,  called 
Yerghin,  is  one  and  three-<iuarter  mile  to  south,  604°  east  from  Capo 
Paghelian.  There  is  good  a<!horage  in  the  bay  thus  formed  in  from  ten 
to  sixteen  fathoms,  mud.  You  nuiy  even  moor  to  the  bed  of  gravel. 
Fresh  water  is  scarcer  here  than  in  other  parts,  but  in  its  northeast  angle 
are  some  good  ponds.  On  Cape'  Yerghin  is  a  village  of  two  or  three 
youi-ts. 

From  this  cape  the  gravel  bed  runs  two  miles  to  the  northeast  to  a 
pointed  and  steep  cape;  then  the  shore  gradually  trends  to  Cape 
Byghynin. 

Ittygran  Island,  two  miles  to  the  south  of  the  previous  island,  is 
six  miles  long  east  and  west,  and  two  or  three  miles  broad.  Its  north- 
west extremity  is  distinguished  by  a  blackish  and  perpendicular  rock. 
From  thence  the  north  coast  of  the  islaiul  runs  directly  east,  and  then 
turns  to  southeast,  to  south,  and  southwest  to  Cape  Postels,  the  southeast 
extremity  of  the  island,  lying  three  miles  northwest  one-quarter  north 
trom  Cape  Mertens,  and  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  nearest  part  of  the 
continent.  This  forms  the  breadth  of  the  south  entrance  to  the  Strait 
of  Seniavine,  called  by  the  Tchuktchis  Tchetchekouioum.  Cape  Postels 
is  distinguished  by  a  moderately  high  hill,  with  a  perfectly  round  top. 

Kynkai  Island,  which  is  not  more  than  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  cir- 
cuit, lies  one  and  three-cpiarter  mile  to  south  (»2o  west  from  Cape 
Paghelian,  and  one  and  a  quarter  mile  to  northwest  of  the  northwest 
extreme  of  Ittygran  Island.  It  is  moderately  high,  rocky,  slopes  rapidly, 
and  has  a  bare  and  flattish  top. 

Nouneangan,  a  small  rocky  islet,  is  outside  the  strait,  lying  four  and 
a  half  miles  northeast  one-quarter  north  from  Cape  Mertens.  ii  is  cliffy 
all  around,  about  eighty  feet  high,  and  covered  with  a  pleasing  verdure. 

One  remarkable  feature  of  the  Strait  of  Seniavine,  Avhich  also  occurs 
at  the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence,  is,  that  in  these  straits,  inclosed  by  coasts, 
the  depth  is  greater  than  in  the  middle  of  the  adjacent  sea,  which 


■^jf!rm^;!!^^ii^^sj>^^^ 


174 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


I'  ifi 

m 


(loos  not  exceed,  except  in  some  parts,  twenty-four  fathoinH.  On  the 
Aniericjin  coast  the  depth  is  Jiot  {?reat ;  but  it  is  still  more  Hingular  that 
thin  depth  is  separated  from  the  shallower  open  sea  by  a  bank  with  still 
less  wat^T  over  it ;  so  that  the  soiindin(;s  first  decrease  on  approa<'hing 
the  coast,  an<l  then  increas<»  Mhen  on  it.  In  the  nii<hlle  pf  IJehring's 
Strait  the  depths  diminish  eijuaUy  on  either  side. 

The  tides  were  almost  imp('rce})tible  two  or  three  days  after  the  new 
moon,  but  a  strong  north  wind  raised  the  level,  tiMuporarily,  two  or  three 
feet. 

« 

The  wind  natundly  affects  the  atmosphere;  with  those  between  nortli 
and  west  it  is  clear;  the  south  brings  (rh>ads,  and  southeast  moisture. 

The  variation  of  the  com|»ass  sit  the  rircr  Maritch  was  2ii^  .V  east. 

Vessels  comin/jf  here  to  trade  with  the  Tchuktchis  geiujrally  visit  the 
Bay  of  8t.  Lawrence,  but  this  doubtless  will  be,  or  has  been,  abandoned 
fpr  the  Strait  of  S«'^niaviiie.  It  is  sixty  miles  furtJier  south,  and  more 
sheltered  from  ic<^  and  north  winds.  Its  suj»erior  ports,  too,  are  a  jjfreat 
advantage.  For  a  short  sray,  and  to  procure  wafe* .  (ilasenapp  IJay  wUI 
1h^  found  excellent.  If  a  longer  stay  is  to  be  made,  Abolechett'  Bay  will 
answc/.  Should  it  Imi  necessary  to  entirely  discharge  a  vessel,  and  heave 
her  <U>wn,  It^itmanoff  Hay  offers  every  facility.  The  Strait  of  Seniaviue 
also  offers  more  trade,  In'cause  the  Reindeer  Tchuktehis  asstMuble  here 
in  greater  nundu'rs,  from  the  superiority  of  the  pasturage,  even  over 
those  of  the  Hay  of  Anadyr. 

i'Ai»K  TonAi'MN. — The  coast  from  (JajKi  Mertens  runs  to  the  south. 
The  mountains  rece<le  into  the  interior,  and  from  the  coast  a  bed  of 
gravel  i)ro,jects,  which,  tren<ling  in  a  <uirve  to  southeast  and  east,  forms 
the  long  point  called  Cape  Tchaplin,  in  latitude  (i4o  li4'  .JO",  and  longi- 
tut.e  17li°  14'  west.  Tlu^  TchuUt<;his  have  a  large  sumnter  habitation  on 
the  cape. 

At  tin*  conwnencement  of  this  bed  of  gravel  high  mountains,  with 
pointed  summits,  advan(;e  t<)  \\\i  slmre.  They  are  tlui  last  Imuu'h  on 
this  si(h>,  and  are  not  seen  again  until  we  a|>proaeh  the  head  of  thetiulf 
of  St.  Croix,  To  the  west  of  this  steej)  <'(»ast  is  an  open  cove,  extending 
two  mih's  U\  the  north  ;  fnun  this  cove  the  coast  runs  to  the  south,  but 
the  mountains  forming  it  are  lower.  They,  fi)r  the  most  part,  jut  out  in 
steep  an«(  high  escarpments,  with  large  gaps  between,  in  which,  in  some 
instances,  are  gravel  beds  extending,  (»n  which  the  Tchuktchis  have  some 
temporary  habitations. 

Caw,  TcHor kotsko'i. — Further  on  the  <'oast  trends  towanls  the  south- 
Wi'st  and  west,  and  gra«lnally  towards  the  ncu'thwest  (piartiu*.  CaptHin 
IJitke  (■(Utsidered  the  soutlienunost  point  of  this  extent  of  coast  as('a)>e 
T('houk<itsko'i.  (fcographers  had  for  a  long  p<'riod  denominated  the 
most  projecting  part  of  this  c«»aHt  by  that  title,  and  it  seemed  only  rea- 
sonattle  that  this  usagtt  should  be  followed.  It  is  a  blutf  hcadhnal  deelin- 
ing  in  a  narrow  crest,  from  which  rise  sonu^  high  rocks,  t4'rminp*t;ia  In 
points.     It  abuts  on  the  sea  with  a  snudl  roundish  hill,  on  whiel  .v3Uio 


vnwwniwmw W^«iWlKn\inMif«iqi«\viEsiMM^SHvm^  '. 


ALASKA  DlKEfJTOKY. 


175 


itli- 


lol 


IptillU 

\\  the 

rea- 


fiimilar  isolated  rocks  rise.  Those  inny  all  Ix'  very  r«n«liiJy  *li!>nUtij,;;ni,s|j.'Ml 
in  (.'omiiijj:  east  or  west;  but  viewed  from  the  iwuth,  il  is  all  wvulb\UHkd 
with  the  eoawt. 

Tlie  cape  lies  in  latitude  (J4<^  10'  north,  and  loiiftitmle  IT.'P  .W  wcMt, 
Cook  assigned  its  position  as  04"  l.'J'  and  IT3^>  24',  but  he,  mw  it  from  a 
great  distance,  and  near  its  parallel ;  this  discrepaiHy  of  U»?ji^itud«'  m 
therefore  not  remarkable.  According  to  Hehrinji  s  journal  lis  h\t\iwle 
is  04°  20'.     Beyond  this  commences  the  (lulf  of  Aradyr. 

The  (liiLF  OF  Anadyr.— The  southwest  linii^  of  this  gulf  may  Im> 
placed  at  Cape  St.  Thaddeus,  lying  two  hi.;, '".red  miles  south  (I'i^wesfc 
from  Cai^e  Tehoukotskoi.  With  this  breadth  in  its  open iiiijj,  the;Jiull  is 
four  humlred  and  twenty  miles  in  circuit,  without  reckoning  tJu'  Hiuallm' 
sinuosities  and  the  CJulf  of  8t.  Croix,  which  is  one  hun»lrefl  aad  eighty 
miles  in  circuit. 

Up  to  the  time  of  the  visit  of  Captain  Liltke,  Jiehriisg  Imd  been  the 
only  navigator  who  had  sailed  in  it.  IJehring  went  around  it,  unchtnvd 
on  the  west  coast  in  latitude  O.'io  47',  discovered  the  (Julf  of  St.  Ci(aj4, 
took  in  water  at  the  small  o[)en  Hay  of  Transliguration,  aftx  r  wluch  he 
foHowed  the  coast  at  a  short  distance,  as  far  as  the  strait  now  beiinjii*: 
his  name,  liehring  had  not  th(>  means  at  command  tor  making  obser\a> 
tions  with  the  accuracy  recpiire*!  in  modern  times;  but  the  direetitm  of 
the  coasts,  traced  simply  from  his  route,  had  more  resembhiuee  to  their 
real  bearings  than  all  the  details  that  were  to  be  found  on  the  charts. 

From  Cape  Tchoukotskoi  the  <;oast  extends  to  northwest.  At  twelve 
miles  to  north  70°  west  from  this  cape  we  reach  Cai)e  Stoleti*'*,  (of  the 
century,)  which  much  j  ^eaibles  the  forme',  of  a  bhukish  color,  and 
having,  in  a  similar  nutnuor,  is(»late<l  reoks  on  its  crest.  The  coast 
between  is  steep,  and  without  any  rem.irkable  sinuosities. 

At  seven  and  a  half  miles  from  Ca[>e  Stoletie,  Cape  Ouliakhpen  pro- 
jects in  a  steep  declivity,  ami  is  high.  The  rocks  of  this  cap« ,  and  also 
of  those  turther  te>  the  northwest,  are  not  so  black  as  those  wliich  extend 
towards  Cap<'  Tclioukotskoi ;  and  the  isolated  and  pointed  rocks  on  their 
crests  are  not  seen  here.  On  the  east  side  of  this  cai»e  is  an  open  bay, 
into  which  the  small  river  Vouten  falls. 

Tout  1'rovii)KN(!E. — It  is  presumed  that  the  open  bay  Just  alluded 
to  by  Captain  I^iltke  is  the  same  with  that  which  has  recently  atlorded 
wint«'r  shelter  for  her  Majesty's  ship  I  Mover,  in  l.SlH-'4!),  which  was  dis- 
patched in  sear(*h  of  the  missing  expedition  of  Hir.lohn  Franklin.  I'nua 
the  bru'l  n«>tic«>  that  has  as  yet  a|>p<'ared,  it  is  extensive,  with  safi'  anch- 
orage, protecU'd  from  the  sea  by  a  long  low  spit.  A  supjily  of  water 
couhl  be  conveniently  obtained  from  the  anchorage  lirst  selected.  Com- 
nmiider  Moore's  subseqiu>nt  pro«!eedings  he  des<!ribes  thus; 

"On  the  20th  of  October,  1S4H,  (biding  the  direction  and  Jbrce  of  the 
win<l  to  continu«',  the  temperatuK^  of  the  air  to  fall  as  low  as  2.'4  Fah- 
renheit, and  the  seawater  to  2H^,  I  deemed  it  prudent  to  take  the  opin- 
ion of  the  otllcers  as  to  whether  an  endeavor  to  proce<Ml  to  (he  north 


m 


^=l??R?5W8fi5aW?'''"*'?'wP''??™^ 


176 


ALASKA    DIRECTORY. 


7'    p 


ward  should  be  miule.  Tbese  opinions  were  strictly  in  accordance  with 
my  own  8«intiment8,  viz.,  that  :t  would  Im)  In^tter  to  i*eniaiii  in  this  secure 
harbor  for  the  winter  than  niak*-  t*  useless  attempt  to  proceed  iiorth- 
wanl,  with  ttj>robnbility  of  Immu^  unable  to  regain  my  atlvantaKcous 
jHwition,  (tVora  which  1  could  send  out  overland  expeditions,)  un<l  on 
a^'connt  of  Mic  advanced  Heanoi!  to  Iomc  tin-  chance  of  wintcrijij?  even  in 
l*etrupauli»vsl( i.  1  thcirfure  ii^-terniined  that,  should  no  favoral»le  chani^e 
take  place  before  th^*  jOth,  to  select  a  cx>iiv«'ni«!iut  siM>t  in  which  tx)  place 
the  ship  for  the  winter. 

^^  On  the  23d  a  still  fiwtiMsr  redttetitMt  of  tiiyratnre  UM}k  place :  the 
upper  part  <»f  the  harlx>r  wm  rop— tod  iveeeiit^  ov**  and  lar{r«>  sn  ass^s 
«f  ice  forming  during  tlic  iiiglrt  abotit  th^  ship ;  in  conseoueiMv  of  wiinii, 
a^f^T  a  personal  examination  of  an  inner  i»arl>or  p<»Ms««ssinti  many  iui- 
vantages,  1  renmved  thither  on  the  24th,  aw^horing  at  .Jh  p.  ni.  in  seven 
fathowHs. 

"Eacma  Harbor,  t<>  which  I  had  now  removed,  e«w*?flunieated  with 
the  larger  one  by  an  opening  a  mile  wide,  forming  >«  ''    ^   miles 

long  and  one  nule  and  a  ImH'  in  breadth,  surrounded  «»n  -uhi  by 

lofty  mountains,  except  to  tlie  sonthwani,  where  it  was  sc^mj;  :  d  from 
the  sea  by  a  tra<;t  of  low  land  ,\m\  an  extensive  lagoon,  and  having  deep 
water  at  the  entrance  and  middle,  with  good  anchorage  on  ea<;h  sichi 
clo»e  to  the  shore.  On  the  lowland  to  the  south  wa**  a  native  s<^ttle- 
mentof  sevenhuts,  to  which  l)elonged  a  large  herd  of  reintleer,  from  vvhich 
I  hojx'd  from  time  to  time  to  obtain  supplies  of  fresh  meat.  Considering 
H,  however,  safer  for  the  ship,  on  account  of  the  force  and  prevaU'ure  of 
tkc  northeast  winds,  as  uell  iis  ^e  xw»b»bi!ity  of  tlie  iw;  drift itig,  and  on 
the  whole  better  to  l>e  at  a  little  di»tancc  from  a  people  whofw?  fri<*ndly 
disposition  was  not  y¥it  establlslKMl,  J  removed  to  the  north  side  of  the 
ha^lior  on  the  25th,  and  there  st'cnred  the  sliip  for  the  winter  on  the 
28th  of  Octobw. 

"From  the  iJ^i  the  jjeople  were  <Mnpl(>yed  in  dismantling  the  ship, 
leaving  nothing  tmt  l4»e  lower  rigging  over  the  nnisthca<ls,  building  a 
kon^  <>f  stone  for  the  e>^veni(>n(^  of  working  the  forge,  drying  the 
oloth<>s.  Ac,  and  housing  ttti*  ship  in,  all  of  which  was  completed  by  the 
8th  of  Xo\  em'ljer. 

"During  this  time  Ice  was  continually  fonning  annttul,  and  frequently 
broken  up  by  sijofllls  and  iitrong  northeast  winds,  so  that  the  ship  was 
not  finally  frozen  in  nuti]  th*  18tli,  when  the  nativen  were  Mrst  enable<l 
to  visit  us  ,)iongsidc  tli'   4ripin  their  sledges  drawn  by  dogs, 

"The  difftM'cnt  trilyes  </  Autives  ^v^tfr  my  winter  «|inirter8  at  first  ap- 
peared to  hcsitat4'  about  coitMg  on  hf>ard.  but  on  making  a  few  presents 
and  allowing  some  truHlc  to  Im>  c»rrie/l  on  with  tluMP,  rhey  gained  conft 
Annvf\  at  iiast  so  far  as  to  enter  the  ship  rea<lily  when  invited  to  do  so, 
w<t  l>eing  jjireful  on  all  <H!casions  to  guard  against  treachery  on  their 
pi;at,  on  lUMiount  of  the  warlike  and  rel4>ntiesM  ehartu-tx>r  attached  to  the 
people  of  theiM»  coasts  by  some  authors. 


li 
K. 

it 


iVVTT'f'l  "•■'yHMfV'T^'^--' 


•T'W*^^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


177 


e  of 
nd  oil 
tUy 

lUc 

ma  A 
K  the 
»y  the 

lontly 

iibleti 

nt  ap- 

Iwnft- 

io  so, 

tluiir 

10  the 


"  During:  the  months  of  Noveml>er  and  T>ooi«n»l>er  tho  ship  was  daily 
visited,  not  only  by  tho8«  in  the  vicinity,  hut  also  by  others  fi-oin  a  dis- 
tance alouff  the  cosiRt  and  inhmd,  by  intercourse  with  whonj  I  was  eiui 
bled  to  satisfy  myself  that  they  were  not  oidy  peaoeftd,  but  disposed  t« 
he  actively  friendly  towarda  myself  and  the  otliecr^  and  nieii  under  my 
command." 

The  position  of  the  harbor,  ascertained  ditvinj,'  this  stay,  Is  latitude  640 
2.V  55"  north,  lon},^itude  17.'P  7'  W  west. 

The  oltitiers  of  the  Plover  made  several  excursions  into  the  n«nghhor- 
hoo<l,  and  in  Febnmry  one  of  the.st^  parties  reached  withiti  wiirht  of  the 
East  Cape.    They  were  all,  however,  conducted  un<ler  i^reat  hardships. 

Cape  Yakkoun,  like  Cape  Onliakhjicu,  ia  very  hij,di  and  ver\  -reep. 
It  is  eonspicuous  from  a  pyramidal  rock  risitjj?  from  itH  summit. 

CAVii  TcHiN(5  AN  falls  froui  a  jj;reat  lu'i^'ht,  abuost  pcrpendicnlarlT, 
into  the  sea.  It  is  very  remarkable  by  a  red  band  ^vhich  intersects  the 
cape  from  its  sunmiit  to  its  base.  Between  it  and  Cape  Yakkoun  is  aa 
on«n  bay,  around  which  the  coast  slopes  down.    A  village  was  seen  in  It. 

I'rom  Cape  Tchinjynn  the  coawt,  consisting  chietly  of  perpendicular 
rotiks,  trends  to  northwest  and  wcst-nortl»w<'Rt  as  far  as  CaiHi  Span- 
lierg.  It  is  high,  and  in  latitude  Mo  42^'  north,  and  ionpitude  i74»  42' 
yfifisX.  Ou  the  itouth  side  of  tlAC  cajw;  is  a  high  steep  rock,  with  a  rounded 
t«if>;  and  on  the  west  side  la  a  hill  equally  rounded,  the  Hanks  of  which 
gra^iually  slope  on  either  side.  Between  this  cape  an<l  ('ape  Halgan, 
nine  miles  distaitit  to  the  north,  71^  w»3st,  a  bay  penetrates  into  the  land, 
which  cireumstiinces  did  not  i)ent(it  Captain  LIStke  to  examine  in  detail. 

Cape  Halgau  is  hijsrh  and  very  st«^cp.  Heen  from  the  south  side,  a 
stnal!  hfMul  ^^it>pes  fo  the  right;  but  ou  the  west  side  is  a  serrated  and 
;>o!i!!.     tiiUr*  -     lu  front  of  it  is  a  large  detjtehed  rock. 

('a|>e  >{inirlioun  is  }«<  high  and  as  blutf  as  the  preceding,  and  in  gen- 
ei'a!  the  iiiteu'ventng  coast  is  equally  m).  This  cape  is  very  remarkable 
by  \tH  tiut  top,  but  mor<"  ho  inmi  its  cntin'ly  «iitVcicnt  appearance  from 
that  which  follows  it.  Cajx'  Attcheuu,  in  latitude  04^  4G',  longitude  175^^ 
28'.  This  iatt«r  cjtpe,  uu)dcrat€ly  elevated,  sr«'ep  to  seaward,  is  separ- 
ated from  Ottj*e  JSiuirhoun  by  a  bay  surroun«led  by  a  low  coast,  from 
which  a  long  chain  of  nnmntains  ext**!)ds  to  the  northwest,  a  country 
OMr«E«Ki  with  moss.  That  which  forois  the  southeast  side  of  Cape  Att- 
chmin,  at  the  distance  of  twrnty  miles  oi'  »uore,  seems  to  be  tletached. 

TR<iiNKt''T«>t  RATION  Bav. — A  coawt  With  a  similar  appearance  exttuids 
in  a  windii!  :  luansier  four  miles  to  the  northwest  t*)  a  K.mall  open  bay, 
wiiieh  Liitke  rwjogni.  <••!  as  iiehriug's  Bay  of  Trunsfiguration,  or  Preo- 
brayenia.  It  is  snnuunded  by  a  low  shore^  and  towards  its  extremity 
it  receives  the  hver  Leiiianaya,  (frozen^  which  the  Tduiktchis  call 
Kouivaain. 

Fnmi  this  Irny  ihe  coast  ts  high,  nearly  periKmdiculiir,  and  like  a  wall; 
it  tixttmds  uiue  uaies  to  Cape  Eiuueliau.    Cape  Behriug  is  e(iti;illy  high 

12  AD 


A»  ■^7!v^T'^y^■?l^^^^^^^?j^^y^;•^v^'^'S^'-!W*'l^;!^^^ 


178 


ALASKA   DIRECTOKY. 


ki 


|i 


;i 


H 


i      ( 


ftinl  perp(»iidicular ;  but  between  tliem  there  is  a  mwnU  .space,  whei'e  tlio 
even,  uniform  <:oa8t  curves  into  the  form  of  H.n  open  buy. 

C,U»K  Beiieia'O  in  Hitiuited  in  latitude  Hrp  0'  W  north,  lonji;itude  IT'P 
57'  went.  It  is  particularly  noticeable,  because  bore  «uddenly  terniiuat*) 
the  steep  rock»  which,  with  smtdl  excejitions,  form  the  enfciro  extetit  of 
coast  as  far  as  Cape  Tchoukotsko'f,  and  further  n«)rth  the  coast  becomes 
still  lower.  The  mountains  in  this  space  are  similar  U)  tliose  at  Cape 
TchtxikotrikoV;  of  a  nsean  height,  level  at  Ihcsummit,  8lo{>in^,  and  even 
Wat,  whirii  pAs1,i<'nlarly  cnartieterizes  the  ntountains  about  (.'ape  Ninir- 
lioun,.  The  hijfh  and  peaked  ntountiiins,  like  those  in  the  iSiiy  of  St. 
Lawrence,  will  no  lonjfer  be  seen,  even  in  the  distanv'.e.  Fjom  Cape 
IJeluIng  the  coast  turns  al>ruptly  to  the  northeast,  then  to  north,  slop- 
injL?  jursjdually,  and  ternjinating  [lerpenubcularly  in  some  part&t,  as  far  tis 
Cape  Tcldrikolf,  whi«;'h  i»  steep,  and  forn\s  mi  open  bay.  In  rajusy  places 
on  the  moswy  land  traces  of  rivulets  or  small  streams  are  ,een,  and  on 
their  bor<lersTchuktchi  vilhiges.  Cape  T<;hirikoiV  has  a  colenil)ly  high 
hill,  with  a  peaked  top  on  it. 

B«»yond  thi«  only  a  single  bbsft'  and  hlj{h  cape  can  be  clistiuji^uished, 
lyinj,!;  four  or  Ave  nuJes  to  the  iiorthwest  of  Cap«  Td.'hirikoiiT.  The  coast 
thence  tren<ls  towards  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  froisji  whence  it  takes 
»  westerly  direeiion.  Captain  Lib  ke,  not  bein^?  ;j,ble  to  get  any  comum- 
liicationa  with  the  inhabitants  near  this  p«rt,  could  not  ascertain  the 
umiw  of  this  river.  The  direction  of  its  cour-Mi  is  {generally  north  and 
south,  bat  it  falls  into  the  sea  to  south we^L  It  Uows  through  low  hinds, 
so  that,  at  the  <listan«'0  of  ilft«!en  or  twenty  miles,  only  a  larj'e  opening 
ia  seen,  beyond  which  nothing  is  visible.  It  is  doubtful  whether  sulli- 
«ient  depth  of  water  for  Hhips*  wouhl  be  found,  because,  at  tew  aiiles 
{torn  its  mouth,  the  lead  only  gave  six  tx)  stncu  fathoinft.  It  most  prob- 
ably takes  it;^  rise  near  the  sjimo  place  where  the  rivers  that  How  ii:to 
the  bays  of  Koulutchinskoi  an<l  Metchigmenskoi  do.  Jjauds  covered 
with  moss  and  marshes  ajrparently  occupy  all  the  *p!ice  coruprisetl 
betwe(^n  the  head  of  these  bays  and  the  river.  Towards  the  south,  as 
far  as  Cape  Behring,  the  hsUsof  modeiat4i  height  are  alone  covered  with 
moss,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  capes  thai  have  been  mentioned- 

All  tlus  easU'rn  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Anmlyr  is  destitute  of  wood. 

The  soundings  from  Cai>e  Tchonkotskoi  up  to  Cape  Attcheun  show 
from  twenty  aeveu  to  thiityone  fathoms  at  the  distance  of  six  to  ten 
miles  from  th(^  c(»a«t.  the  bottom  mad  or  gravel.  Oil  (.'ape  Behring 
then-e  are  eighteen  to  twenty-two  fathoms  at  eight  miles  (Ustant;  off 
Cape  Tchirikoff  ^here  are  not  more  than  ten  or  eleven  fathoms  at  the 
«ttuu>  distivnie;  an<l  still  further  there  are  not  niort^  than  seven  or  eight 
Mhonits.  Here  the  bottom  is  gcjuTally  griivj'ily.  No  s»)rt  of  danger 
was  i>eiceived  froni  the  8»'iiiavine.  It  must  therefore  be  considered  that 
it  h  clear  throtjghont,  beeause  j^ehring,  who  kept  elose  Ut  the  land  all 
the  way  iKVond  tlio  cape  now  ttearing  his  naaie,  does  not  either  Jiiake 
LMcntiou  of  any  shoal  or  reef  whatever. 


•I   £ 


'fiVW|i^vivV'*i""'^'''wi^ip\i;iiii#^w»M'w(i«^  w^yjpi',''!    \'-'«77!v.T5<rir*^^''-^'^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


179 


1)W  into 

.iitU,  »^ 

i'«l  with 

bued- 

ood. 

in  show 
to  ten 
liehiiii}! 

linit;  oft" 
iH  jit  the 
I  or  eijU^'t 

bind  »J\ 
LfV  make 


The  vaviatJoH  of  the  compass  in  this  part  is  from  lOc*  to  20<^  (>ast. 
To  the  west  of  the  river  above  deserilx'd  the  eoawt  is  h)w  for  foiir 
miles,  and  then  e<unmene^s  to  beeome  hilly.  The  moiintttins,  higher 
than  those  on  the  east  <^oast,  are  peaked  or  Hat  at  the  sumttiit,  bnt  are 
all  dispersed  without  any  order,  with  valleys  at  intervals  very  deeply 
cut  in,  through  which  rivulets  and  small  rivers  How.  The  eoast  in  this 
form  extends  fifteen  miles  west-northwest  oiui-quarter  west,  an<l  west- 
northwest,  forminj;  a  small  ojjen  bay,  into  which  a  small  river  falls,  and 
terminated  on  the  south  by  a  high  blutt"  cape.  The  bottom  of  the  bay 
is  in  latitude  (U^  ,'J(U',  and  longi  de  17(i°  18',  and  is  properly  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  Amidyr.  On  the  west  side  of  the 
cai>e  just  mentioned  is  another  e<pially  open  bay,  into  which  a  tolerably 
large  river  flows  from  the  north,  and  winding  in  large  valleys  between 
the  mountains. 

At  three  or  four  miles  from  this  last  river  the  most  remarkaljle  bed  of 
gravel  that  had  been  seen  commences.  It  extends  witliout  interruption 
to  southwest  and  west  for  forty-flve  nautic  miles,  as  far  as  Cape  Meetch- 
kcn,  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Croix,  and  conse(piently  f«)rniing  the  lurgest 
portion  of  the  north  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Anadyr.  Some  iM)rtions  of 
this  were  hidden  by  the  fog,  but  that  part  which  was  seen  from  the 
Siiniavine  was  of  a  wearying  uniformity,  the  same  wasr«'  Mud  sterility; 
it  was  throughout  nothing  but  a  heap  of  bare  shingle,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  very  few  spots,  where  there  had  been,  or  still  was,  a  habita- 
tion ;  there  was  also  some  grass,  and  other  herbs  that  JMMJompany  nmn. 
A  narrow  and  shallow  cjuial  separates  this  gravel  bed  from  the  conti- 
nental coast,  which  runs  [)arailel  to  it,  and  biutnds  the  sea  with  low  red- 
dish 'iliffs.  Furth(»r  oil'  a  mossy  plain  extends  to  the  Hrst  of  the  low  and 
even  nmuntains,  s«'ven  or  eight  miles  from  the  sea. 

Oif  Cape  Meetchken  the  north  coa«t  of  the  gulf  is  broken,  t«  form  the 
entrance  to  the  great  Gulf  of  St.  Ooix. 

The  eastern  angles  of  the  Gulf  of  Aiuuiyr  an»  the  portions  whi«'h  have 
the  least  depth.  There  the  numlter  of  lath<mis  equals  the  number  of 
miles  that  you  are  olf  the  loast.  At  twelve  miles  you  have  twelve 
fathoms;  at  eight  miles,  eight  fathoms,  or  rather  somewhat  less  than 
this.  Within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  otui^t  there  are,  however,  still 
Ave  or  six  fathoms.  Along  the  grav«»l  ImmI  there  is  similar  depth,  but  it 
increases  to  the  westward.  <>tf  Cape  >feet4?hken,  m  only  two  miles 
dist4i:it,  you  will  tind  twenty-seven  litthoms:  Imt  at  one  mile  or  one  and 
a  half  mile  from  thence  is  a  1m«»^  on  whieti  the  H«^niavin»'  ran  gr«at 
risk  of  groun<ling.  In  the  north  i»iir(  "'  the  gulf  the  botl.«>fi"'  is  grav- 
elly throughout,  but  afU'r  pasMug  the  aed  of  gravel  it  \ifgtuH  to  be 
muddy. 

The  iim.F  of  St.  Croix  o<'cupies  jj  symt^  of  t\''\\  ..mi-  mili^s  of  ^t: 
lude,  and  thirty-ftve  miles  from  east  t*«  wm*t.     If  '-eaeh^^s   *irhi>i    ♦•! 
raUes  of  the  Arctic  circle.     Its  Mbon^s,  to  tlM*  distaiiio'  of  thir'^"  t^'c  miles 
frouk  its  eatran(;e,  run  nearly  parallel  t4>  eanb  <»ther,  to  north  tmUm&iit, 


?';'yfit«<«WHy4i?t''r»)^V^lVi4«.^)l"Vi.J(,(y'4l<ilW 


180 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


,! 


and  twenty  miles  apart.  Further  on  they  approach  each  other,  and 
narrow  the  gulf  to  lesH  than  four  luilea. 

Cape  Meetghkem,  the  western  extremity  of  the  bed  of  gravel  pre- 
viously described,  forms  the  east  point  of  the  entrance;  it  is  in  latitude 
650  28'  40",  and  longitude  178*  47'.  The  shortest  distance  to  the  oppo- 
site shore  to  tlie  west  is  thirteen  and  one-third  miles. 

There  is  good  anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Meetchken,  open, 
however,  to  northwest  and  west-northwest  j  the  coast  in  this  direction, 
being  forty  miles  distant,  aUbrds  not  much  protection,  though  Captain 
Liitke  considers  that,  with  proper  pri^caution.  a  vessel  might  hold  out  in 
bad  weather.  The  depth  is  live  to  nine  fathoms,  and  the  best  place  is  to 
bring  Cape  Meetcldceu  to  beai*  southwest  by  compass.  Care  must  be 
taken,  in  entering,  of  the  rocky  bank  before  alluded  to,  which  lies  one 
and  a  half  mile  southwest  of  the  cape.  On  the  bed  of  gravel  is  a 
permanent  establishment  of  the  Stationary  Tchuktchis,  called  Meetch- 
ken, composed  of  seven  or  eight  summer  yourts.  They  were  the  most 
peaceable  and  the  poorest  that  were  met  with ;  though  they  were  not  in 
want,  a  ship  could  not  procure  anything  from  them. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  gulf,  the  nearest  pai't  of  which  is  eight  miles 
from  Cape  Meetchken,  has  but  very  little  depth,  At  three  and  a  half 
or  four  miles  there  are  but  three  fathoms.  Further  to  the  northwest  a 
sb«»a]  extends  one  and  a  half  and  two  miles  from  the  coast,  which  is  a 
llo'vv  clifl'of  twelve,  twenty,  and  in  some  parts  sixty  feet  in  height.  There 
are  no  mountains  whatever  along  the  coast.  It  is  a  mossy  plain,  which, 
in  some  parts,  gently  rises  into  smiill  hills.  Only  near  the  entrance  a 
branch  of  the  mountains  advances,  of  which  the  nearest  to  the  gulf  is 
called  by  the  Tchuktchis,  Linglingaf^  a  word  in  their  language  meaning 
"  heart  rock,''  in  liussian  Serdzc  l^imen.  It  lies  in  latitude  65*  36^' 
north,  and  longitude  178"  17'  west,  and  its  height  is  l,461i  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.    It  is  one  of  the  best-determined  points  in  the  gulf. 

At  twenty-six  miles  from  Cape  Meet<;hken  a  tolerably  hu'ge  and  high 
bed  of  gravel  advances  from  the  coast  to  the  northwest.  It  is  covered 
with  dry  moss,  and  forms  a  cove  two  miles  in  circuit,  exposed  to  the  north- 
west, in  which  there  is  safer  anchorage  than  in  that  at  Cape  Meetchken. 
There  is  no  running  water  here,  nor  is  there  on  all  the  coast,  but  ponds 
and  small  lakes  are  freiiuent,  and  affonl  g(M>d  snow  or  ice  water. 

At  about  eight  miles  from  this  point  a  long  and  h>w  fioint  projects, 
forming  the  south  lindt  of  the  B«y  of  Kangliynin,  which  is  nearly  six 
miles  wide  at  its  o[>euing,  and  not  less  than  tony  miles  in  eircumfereuce; 
but,  on  account  of  its  shallow  depth,  it  doviH  not  merit  any  att^tion. 

The  northern  side  of  the  gulf  iireseuts  an  entire  coutraat  t*  those  of 
the  east  and  western  sides.  High  mountiiins  here  iulvanc^  in  three  abrupt 
capes  of  a  somber  appearance,  the  extremities  of  which  tutEt^  a  resem- 
blance to  the  letter  M.  The  HU|^H'rior  utigles  of  thin  letter  are  Egvekinot 
and  Etelkouium  Bays,  and  the  base  of  its  eastern  line  the  uoith  point  of 
Kaughynin  Bay. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


181 


|eeU, 

six 
mce; 

se  of 
|>rupt 

Ivtnut 
u  of 


E^ekinot  Bay  penetrates  seven  niiica  due  north,  with  a  breadth  of 
one  or  one  and  a  lialf  mile.  The  hip:h  mountiiins  which  surround  it 
leave  all  around  a  narrow  band  of  low  shore,  and  at  the  bottom  a  lar^e 
valley  covered  with  moss.  There  is  no  part  of  the  bay  worthy  of  the 
name  of  a  harbor. 

Etelkoufum  Bay  lies  by  the  side  of  the  former.  The  entrance  only 
was  examined,  because  as  er.rly  as  September  3,  1827,  it  was  already 
cover-  (I,  for  the  distance  of  more  than  Ave  miles,  with  new  ice.  The 
depth  in  the  entrance  was  thirteen  to  eighteen  fathoms,  muddy  bottom. 
It  had  every  appearance  of  being  a  good  port.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
bay,  on  it«  north  side,  a  bed  of  gravel  forms  Knisenstem  Cove,  the  open- 
ing of  which  is  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  wide,  with  seven  to  twelve  fath- 
oms water.    Quiet  anchorage  may  be  had  within  it. 

Beyond  these  two  bays  tl>e  north  shore  of  the  gulf  trends  ten  miles  to 
the  west,  sometimes  perpendicnlu.ly,  at  others  sloping,  but  mountainous 
throughout,  and  then  turns  suddenly  to  the  south.  At  the  angle  of  this 
curve  is  Engaoughin  Bay,  a  round  cove  of  nine  miles  in  circuit,  sheltered 
from  the  south  by  a  low  point  projecting  two  miles  to  the  west,  and  by 
a  gravel  bed  sending  alone  in  front  of  the  point.  This  forms  an  excel- 
lent harbor,  the  only  one  worthy  of  the  character  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Croix. 

In  the  northwest  angle  of  this  port  is  a  rivulet  of  fresh  water,  but  it 
is  only  serviceable  at  high  water.  There  are  several  ponds  and  lakes  of 
fresh  water. 

From  this  bay  the  western  coast  of  thegidf  runs  south-southwest,  and 
then  curves  gradually  to  the  southeast,  without  forming  a  single  remark- 
able bay  or  cove.  At  the  distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  port  the  moun- 
tains advance  very  near  to  the  sea,  and  reach  it  in  places  with  high 
cllfts ;  but  fitrther  on  the  coast  assumes  an  appearance  exactly  like  that 
on  the  opposite  or  eastern  side.  This  side  of  the  bay  is  distinguished  by 
its  superior  depth.  There  is  not  a  sitigle  shoal  throughout  its  extent. 
In  latitude  05o  38'  it  forma  a  pointed  cape,  which  curves  rapidly  to  the 
south,  and  preserves  this  direction  as  far  as  the  limits  of  the  gulf.  In 
the  center  the  depths  are  from  twenty-two  to  forty  fathoms,  muddy  bot- 
tom throughout. 

The  moat  remarkable  mountain  about  it  is  that  of  MatatchingaY,  at 
the  bottom  of  EtelkouYum  Bay.  It  is  distinguished  from  all  others  as 
well  by  its  elevation  as  by  its  somber  and  rugged  flanks.  From  the 
entrance  of  the  gulf,  at  the  distance  of  sixty  miles,  it  appears  at  the  sea 
level  not  to  be  more  than  twenty  or  thirty  miles.  Its  height  was  calcu- 
lated at  nine  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet. 

On  the  west  side,  up  as  far  as  the  Port  of  Engaoughin,  a  large  quan- 
tity of  drift-wood  is  foun«l,  even  long  and  large  trunks  of  trees;  on  the 
ea»t  and  north  coasts,  on  the  contrary,  not  a  single  pi?»ce  is  met  with. 
This  circumstance  ia  worthy  of  note.  It  ])roves  that  the  ctirreiit  from 
the  river  Anadyr,  fttnn  which  it  comes  in  entering  the  Gulf  of  St.  ( -roix, 
bears  chiefly  to  the  west,  altlkough  from  the  bearing  of  its  shores  the 


■••TOsmrr^^iWT.y^.r'''^  •  TViU"'"^ 


182 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


i; 


contrary  would  have  been  anticipated.    On  no  part  of  the  shores  of  the 
gulf  is  the  HuialleHt  tracie  of  growing  wood  to  be  met  with. 

The  tid'  a  were  carefully  observed.  The  establishment  of  the  port 
appears  to  be  Hh.  rtOm.  The  greatest  rise  was  seven  feet,  but  usually  it 
was  lour  and  a  half  to  five  and  a  half  feet ;  some  former  traces  showed 
a  rise  of  nine  feet. 

The  variation  of  the  compass  on  Cape  Meetchken  was  21°  45'  east. 
The  dip,  75°  30'. 

The  lliVEB  Anadyr,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  gulf  which  receives 
its  waters,  is  the  most  considerable  which  falls  into  the  Sea  of  Behring. 
(Ja]>tain  Liitkc^  was  prevented  by  circumstances  from  examining  this 
portion  of  the  gulf,  which  must  therefore  be  left  to  the  imperfect  deline- 
ations of  the  chart  for  all  ftuther  ideas. 

Cape  St.  Thaddeus  is  the  sojithwest  cape  of  the  Gulf  of  Anadyr. 
Behring  gave  this  name  to  a  cape  on  August  21,  (O.  S.,)  being  in  lati- 
tude 02°  42',  and  from  his  data  the  term  has  been  deflned  to  apply  to  the 
high  bluff  cape  situated  in  latitude  02°  42',  and  longitude  171P  38'  east. 
It  has  been  ccmsidered  that  the  cape  to  the  southward  (Cape  Navarin) 
was  the  headland  in  question,  but  which  is  twenty-six  miles  more  to  the 
south.  •  .   I  '     *"  f.    !  >   M 

Cape  St.  Thaddeus  is  the  point  which  projects  furthest  to  the  east  in 
this  portion  of  the  coast,  while  beyond  the  cape  turns  to  the  northwest  and 
southwest,  so  that  it  forms  a  sort  of  natural  limit  to  the  (lulf  of  Anadyr. 
At  tlfteen  miles  t«  the  southwest  one-(iuarter  south  is  another  high  cape, 
to  which  Captain  Lutke  applied  the  name  of  King,  (most  probably  the 
same  that  that  navigator  took  for  Cape  St.  Thaddeus.) 

The  Bay  of  Archangel  Gabriel. — From  Cape  King  the  coast 
turns  suddenly  to  th*>  northwest,  forming  a  bay,  which  penetrates  the 
land  to  a  depth  not  less  than  llfteen  miles,  with  a  breadth  of  six  miles. 
To  this  bay  Captain  Liltke  gave  the  name  of  Behring's  vessel. 

Cape  Navarin. — From  Archangel  Gabriel  Bay  the  coast  runs  south 
to  this  cape,  in  latitude  02°  lG',and  longitude  179°  4^'  east,  beyond  which 
it  turns  abruptly  to  the  northwest  to  form  an  open  gulf,  into  which  it  is 
likely  the  river  Khatyrka  falls.  In  addition  to  its  conspicuous  situation. 
Cape  Navariii  is  ren)arkable  for  a  high  mountain  on  its  point,  two  thou- 
sand live  hundred  and  twelve  feet  in  height,  the  flanks  of  which  descend 
nearly  perpendicularly  into  the  sea.  This  has  been  taken  as  the  real  Cape 
St.  Thaddeus  of  Behring,  but  it  does  not  accord  with  his  journal. 

Capo  Navarin  is  the  south  extremity  of  the  peninsula  which  bounds 
the  Bay  of  Archangel  (iabriel  on  the  south.  A  chain  of  high  mountains 
extends  through  it.  Mount  Heiden  surpasses  the  rest  in  elevation,  (two 
thousand  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet,)  and  is  distinguished  by  its  con- 
ical form.  In  tlte  middle  of  September,  (1827,)  it  was  entirely  covered 
with  snow. 

All  this  part  of  the  coast,  a<'C(n*ding  to  the  examination  by  Captain 
LUtke,  differs  very  greatly  from  all  previous  delineations.     After  Behr- 


-  -v-,.^-. 


'  \f^  iF.i<;»fT;-5  _ — 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


183 


iiig,  Captuin  Kiup:,  or  ratlit'v  Clorko,  was  the  only  visitor  proviously,  but 
this  was  at  such  n  disthnc*'  that  the  proatest  discrcpaucries  I'xist,  i'sjm)- 
cially  in  hmgitudes.  From  these  (liH«;ordanccs  it  isahuost  in»possibh>  to 
fix  exactly  the  ])oiutH  intended  by  each  navipitor.  On  all  «)hl  charts 
this  portion  of  the  coast  is  shown  nearly  half  a  (Icfjree  too  far  north. 

Tile  variation  of  the  compass  on  Cape  Navarin  was  13°  iJa'oast. 

Fr(»m  the  capo  we  have  a  long  interval  of  coast,  ui)ward8  of  three 
hunded  and  fifty  miles  in  extent,  of  which  we  know  nothing.  Captain 
Olerke  passed  it  at  a  great  distance,  and  Captain  Liltke,  both  in  his  pro- 
gress to  the  north  and  on  his  return,  was  j)revented  by  bad  and  foggy 
weather  from  making  any  observation  on  it.  It  is  the  country  inhabited 
by  the  Koriaks,  (Kariaks,)  who  have  been  previously  noticed. 

Capi]  Olutorskai  is  the  first  point  described  by  (Japtain  Liltke.  It 
is  in  hititude  59°  58',  and  longitude  170°  138'  east.  It  is  remarkable  by 
a  high  mountain  with  three  summits,  (2,537  feet,)  with  a  steei)  ascent 
from  the  sea.  At  a  short  distance  to  the  north  there  is  a  hillo(;k  of  a 
conical  form.  From  this  cape  the  coast  extends  on  one  side  to  west- 
uorthwest,  towards  the  Gulf  of  Olutorskoi ;  and  on  the  other,  first  four 
miles  to  east-northeast,  then  thirty  miles  to  the  north,  rather  inclining 
to  the  east.  In  all  this  extent  it  is  mountainous,  and  falls  into  the  sea 
in  cliffy  head  lands.  In  the  latter  half  of  September  there  was  nuich 
snow  on  the  ground,  and  not  a  plant  cimld  be  seen. 

The  (lulf  of  Olutorskoi  was  not  examined  by  Captain  Liitke  on  account 
of  the  fog  and  its  distjuuic.  Its  western  termination  is  a  cape,  which 
was  supposed  to  be  Cape  Govenskoi.  According  to  an  imperfect  obser- 
vation, it  is  in  la  titude  5{)o  50',  and  longitude  WP 18'  east.  It  is  high,  bluff', 
mui  cliffy,  and  over  it  are  souie  high  mountains  which  were  covered  with 
snow. 

Cape  IlpinskoY. — From  this  cape  the  last-named  coast  trends  nearly 
west  to  Cape  Ili>inskoi,  where  the  coast  suddenly  becomes  lower.  This 
cape  is  in  latitude  59°  48^',  and  longitude  104°  57'  east.  Projecting  from 
mountains  of  a  moderate  height,  it  advances  to  the  southwest  in  an  even 
point,  not  very  high,  and  falling  peri)endicularly  into  the  sea.  Accord- 
ing to  Krachenninikoff',  it  is  joined  to  the  continent  by  an  isthnuis  so 
low  and  narrow  that  the  sea  washes  over  it. 

Verkhotoursky  or  Little  Karaghinsky  Island  lies  directly  before  Cape 
Ilpinskoj.  Its  latitude  is  59°  37^',  and  its  longitude  Idi^  43'  east.  It  is 
of  a  round  form,  and  three  or  four  miles  in  circumference.  On  all  sides 
except  the  northwest  it  falls  iieri)en«licularly  into  the  sea.  To  the  north- 
west it  projects  a  short  distance  in  a  low  point  and  a  bed  of  gravel,  on 
which  were  some  habitations  inhabited  by  the  Koriaks,  who  come  hither 
to  hunt  black  foxes. 

The  strait  between  Verkhotourvsky  Island  and  Cape  Ilpinskoi  is  twelve 
miles  broad.  Neaily  in  the  middle  of  it  is  a  dangerous  reef,  awash,, 
extending  one  and  a  half  or  two  miles  eaM  and  west.    In  the  center  is  a 


f:      - 


184 


ALASKA   DIBECTOBT. 


small  but  lii^h  rock.  A  little  to  the  north  is  a  stony  islet,  and  it  may  be 
presumed  that  there  are  other  danf^ers. 

From  Cape  Ilpinskoi  the  coast  curves  to  the  west  and  southwest,  form- 
ing a  large  gulf,  which  is  bounded  to  the  south  by  the  large  island  of 
Karagliinuky.  s  .        < 

As  this  bay  forms  one  of  the  narrowest  and  the  lowest  portions  of  the 
peninsula  of  Kamtschatkn,  it  is  usually  taken  as  the  northern  limit  of 
that  country ;  the  Bay  of  Penjinsk,  in  the  Sea  of  Okhotsk,  forming  the 
opposite  coast. 

Having  thus  described  the  shores  and  the  adjacent  islands  of  the  Sea 
of  Behring,  it  remains,  to  complete  this  chapter,  to  describe  the  detached 
islands  which  are  found  in  it.  In  this  we  have  derived  much  informa- 
tion fro::i  the  voyages  of  Captains  LUtke,  Cook,  Billings,  Kotzbue, 
Beechey,  and  other  navigators,  whose  works  are  quoted  in  the  respective 
places. 

ST.  LAWRENCE  ISLAND. 

This  island  is  the  northernmost  of  those  whi*;h  lie  in  theoi>en  sea.  It  was 
discovered  by  Behring  on  St.  Lawrence's  day,  August  10,  1728.  He 
stated  that  he  passed  by  it  without  observing  anything  particular  on  it 
except  the  cottages  of  some  fishermen. 

Captain  Cook  gave  it  the  name  of  Clerke  Island ;  but  Captain  King, 
who  comimsed  the  third  voluiue  of  the  account  of  Cook's  third  voyage, 
does  not  use  this  designation.  It  was  seen  by  Captain  Kotzebue,  who 
examined  the  east  and  southeast  sides,  but  did  not  observe  the  union  of 
the  east  and  west  portions.  lu  the  early  days  of  our  knowle<lge  of  it 
it  was  supposetl  to  <;onsist  of  several  islands.  This  arises  from  the  nature 
of  the  hind,  the  high  extremities  being  connected  by  a  tract  of  very  low 
land,  which  consequently  cannot  be  seen  at  a  great  distance. 

From  this  cause,  beyond  doubt,  the  islands  Macarius,  St.  Stephen,  St. 
Theodore,  and  St.  Abraham  of  Lieutenant  Syndt,  are  only  the  higher 
hills,  which  are  all  that  are  seen  of  St.  Lawrence  at  a  distance.  Cook 
thus  nanu'd  a  part  of  its  extreme  Anderson  Island,  alter  his  deceased 
and  much-respected  surgeon. 

In  1828  Captain  Schischuuireflf  made  a  detailed  examination  of  its 
shores,  with  the  exception  of  that  part  examined  by  his  former  com- 
mander, Captain  Kotzebue,  in  1817.*  On  the  southwest  side  is  a  small 
open  bay,  where  the  otticers  of  the  llurick  landed ;  this  spot  is  readily 
recognized  by  the  siiiall  rocky  island  in  its  vicinity. 

From  these  examinations  it  appears  that  the  island  is  above  twenty- 
nine  leagues  in  extent  from  east  t4)  west.  The  northwest  iK)int,  to  which 
Admiral  Krnsenstern  has  given  the  name  of  the  Russian  surveyor, 
Schischniarett' Point,  is  in  latitude  (}3°  4G' north,  longitude  171°  41'  west. 
This  exactly  accords  with  the  position  determined  by  Captain  ('lerke, 
"  w^ho  took  it  for  an  island."    Tliis  island,  if  its  boundaries  were  at  this 

"  Kotzebuo'a  Voyage,  p.  195. 


iwnvqvv^mr* 


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"    I  i""ii<en^w^rf 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


185 


% 


time  within  our  view,  is  about  three  lenj?ueR  in  circuit.  Tlie  north  part 
may  he  Hcen  at  the  <li.stancc  of  ten  or  twelve  leagues ;  but  iw  it  IiiIIh  in 
low  land  to  the  HoutheaHt,  the  extent  of  whicli  \\v  couUl  not  hih),  Home  of 
us  coiyectured  that  it  might  be  joined  to  the  laud  to  the  eastward  of  it, 
(which  is  now  known  to  be  the  case,)  but  we  were  prevented  by  the 
haziness  of  the  weather  from  ascertaining  this.  They  were  covered  with 
snow,  and  presented  a  most  dreary  pi(!ture.* 

A  very  projecting  point  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  is  in  latitude 
630  12'  north,  h)ngitude  lOUo  50'  west.  Captain  Kotzebue  places  the 
eastern  point  of  the  island  in  latitude  03°  18',  and  longitude  KIHO  48', 
from  which  Schischmareff  ditters  slightly,  as  he  does,  too,  in  the  configu- 
ration of  the  coast. 

The  island  which  Cook  saw  near  this  ])oint,  in  latitude  63°  10',  and 
longitude  100°  50',  is  composed,  according  to  Kotzebue,  of  two  islands ; 
Schischmareflf  says  there  are  three.  The  inhabitants  call  the  eastern 
part  of  the  coast  Kegalack,  and  tho  western  Chibocko. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  island  is  named  Cape  Anderson,  and  here  an 
historic  doubt  existed. 

A  shoal  of  eleven  i'::''i;hom8  was  found  by  the  Blossom  precisely  in  the 
situation  assigned  to  a  small  island  named  by  Cook  after  his  resjiected 
surgeon,  Mr.  Anderson.  This  island  had  never  been  seen  after,  and  the 
veracity  of  the  great  navigator  has  been  in  consequence  impeached. 
Captain  Beechey,  however,  rectifies  this  error,  having  found  that  it  was 
intended  for  the  east  end  of  St.  Lawrence  Island  ;  the  compilers  of  his 
chart  appear  to  have  overlooked  certain  data  collected  here,  which  would 
not  have  been  omitted  hml  Cook's  life  been  spared.t 

We  have  no  detailed  tlescription  of  the  shores  or  capabilities  of  the 
island.  The  foregoing  are  the  principal  facts  relating  to  it  scattered 
through  the  works  quoted. 


ST.  MATTHEW  ISLAND. 


veyor, 
'  west. 
Merke, 
at  this 


This  island  was  discovered  by  Lieutenant  Syndt,  in  August,  1766. 
Captain  Cook,  ignorant  of  this  circumstance,  considered  it  as  a  new  dis- 
covery in  1778,  and  called  it  Gore's  Island.  He  only  saw  the  southeast 
part  from  a  distance,  and  probably  only  made  out  the  small  island  lying 
separately  to  the  north,  which  the  liussian  promychlenniks  call  Morjovi 
or  Morses'  Island,  as  it  is  here  only  that  these  animals  visit.  Sinco 
Cook's  time,  it  has  been  seen  by  several  Kussian  navigators.  Sarytscheflf 
anchored  here;  Schischmaretf  passed  dose  to  it;  but  none  have  given 
a  detailed  description  of  it.  On  the  Russian  charts  it  has  always  borne 
its  original  name,  Matvoi,  or  St.  Matthew;  but  to  preserve  the  name  by 
Cook,  Liltke  has  called  the  west  extremity  of  the  island  Cape  Gore. 

St.  Matthew  Island  li<'s  northwest  and  southeast,  and  in  a  direct  line 
is  twenty-seven  miles  long  and  three  and  a  half  to  four  and  a  half  in 

—  ■■  ■ -■   '  —       .1——    ...I  -   —.  ■  ..^  .. .,    ..  -   ■■  .    ■  ■_..  , — •■    — ■■  -  '     '■■—^      I' 

•  Cook's  Tliird  Voyage,  vol.  iii,  p.  243. 
t  Bet'cbey,  Voyage  of  the  Blossom,  p.  563. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


sua  itt 

jii  mm  1 2.2 


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12.0 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1.6 

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6"     — 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


"^■T ;  T*^^V!i?T-  iv"""'  f  ^  M  "jfrpTp™  vi 


186 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


1  : 

II 


Biia-i 


breadth.  Its  shores  consist  partly  of  high  rocks,  partly  of  low  land. 
The  southeast  extremity  of  the  island,  most  justly  called  by  Cook  Cape 
Upright,  rises  out  of  the  water  like  a  wall  to  the  height  of  fourteen 
hundred  feet ;  this  is  the  highest  point  of  the  island.  It  falls  suddenly 
to  the  northwest,  forming  a  very  low  and  very  narrow  isthmus;  not  being 
seen  beyond  four  or  five  miles,  causes  Cape  Upright,  even  at  this  dis- 
tance, to  appear  as  a  separate  island.  Beyond  this  isthmus  the  island 
increases  in  breadth  and  elevation,  and  then  again  contracts,  forming 
another  isthmus  similar  to  the  iirst,  at  nine  miles  from  it,  then  a  third, 
from  which  formation  St.  Matthew  at  a  distance  appears  like  several 
islands.  The  southeast  or  outer  point  of  Cape  Upright  is  in  latitude  00° 
18',  and  longitude  172o  4'  west. 

At  twelve  miles  west,  0°  north  from  this  cape,  is  Sugar-loaf  Cape,  thus 
named  from  an  extremely  remarkable  mountain  which  surmounts  it. 
This  mountain  is  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  in 
height,  and  on  every  side  appears  as  an  irregular  cone.  Its  pointed 
summit,  the  only  one  on  the  island,  could  be  seen  over  every  lower  portion 
of  the  island,  and  Captain  Liitke  says  was  of  the  greatest  utility  as  a 
mark  to  connect  these  observations.  Between  Cape  Sugar-loaf  and  Cape 
Upright  are  two  bays,  entirely  unprotected,  surrounded  by  low  shores. 
On  tht  north  side  of  the  Sugar-loaf  is  a  similar  bay,  and  an  isthmus 
similar  to  that  connecting  Cape  Upright.  From  this  towards  the  north- 
west to  the  west  extreme,  Cape  Gore,  are  almost  perpendicular  rocks, 
intersected  in  many  parts  by  ravines. 

Cape  Gore  terminates  to  seaward  in  a  low  cliff.  Off  it  are  some  rocky 
islets.  At  nine  miles  north  ft-om  the  cape  and  three  from  the  north  end 
of  the  island,  on  the  coast  quite  by  itself,  is  a  remarkable  rock  of  a 
ihomboidal  form. 

The  north  point  of  the  island  named  by  Captain  Liitke  after  Captain 
Sarytscheft's  vessel,  is  in  latitude  60°  38',  and  longitude  172°  41'  west- 
It  is  steep,  but  much  lower  than  Cape  Upright.  The  eastern  shore  of 
the  island  much  resembles  the  opposite  one;  there  are  corresponding 
bays  on  either  8id6,  which  form  the  narrow  isthmuses. 

Morjovi  Island  is  steep  oh  exery  part  except  the  southv  est.  Its  north 
extreme  in  latitude  00°  44',  and  longitude  172°  52'  west,  equals  Cape 
Upright  in  elevation,  and  much  resembles  it.  The  south  end  extends  in 
a  low  point  to  the  southeast,  where  the  officers  «..f  the  Slava  Rossii,  Bil- 
lings's ship,  landed. 

Pinnacle  Island,  justly  so  named  by  Cook,  lies  sixteen  miles  west- 
Southwest  from  Cape  Upright.  Two  sides,  nearly  perpendicular,  unite 
at  the  elevation  of  nine  hundred  and  ninety  feet  in  a  pointed  crest,  with 
a  number  of  pointed  rocks  on  it;  at  the  steep  southwest  extremity  are 
some  isolated  rocks,  and  the  northeast  point  terminates  in  an  entire 
range  of  connected  and  extraordinary  pointed  rocks. 

The  shores  of  St.  Matthew  are  clear  and  the  depth  very  great.  There 
might  not  be  great  difficulty  in  landing  in  flue  weather  in  the  bays.  The 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


187 


island  is  not  inhabited,  arid  is  scarcely  capable  of  being  so;  the  Eussian 
company  attempted  to  fix  a  small  colony  here  iu  1809,  but  one-half  per- 
ished from  scmvy,  and  it  was  then  abandoned.  The  formation  of  the 
island  is  volcanic.    The  variation  was  found  to  be  19°  5'  east.* 


north 
1  Cape 
'uds  in 


PRIBUILOFF  ISLANDS. 

These  are  a  group  of  three  small  rocky  islands,  two  of  which  were  dis- 
covered by  M.  Pribuiloft",  in  1708 ;  this  officer  was  under  Captain  Bil- 
lings's expedition  in  1790.  At  first  they  were  called  ISTovy,  (new,)  then 
Lebedevski,  from  the  name  of  the  owner  of  the  vessel  which  discovered 
them.  .  M.  Chelekoff  called  them  Zouboff ;  more  recently  they  have  been 
called  Kotovy,  (sea-bears,)  and  Severny,  (north,)  from  the  immense  quan- 
tity of  the  animals  found  there,  and  their  position  relative  to  Ounal- 
ashka.  Admiral  Sarytscheft'  has  placed  them  on  his  chart  under  the 
name  of  the  officer  who  discovered  them,  as  here  repeated.  Tliey  are 
most  commonly  called  in  the  colonies  here  Ostrovki,  the  Little  Islands.t 

St.  George's  Island  is  the  southernmost.  Tlie  southern  and  west- 
ern parts  are  surrounded  by  rocks  ;  but  the  north  is  easy  of  approach, 
and  affords  good  anchorage  in  a  commodious  bay  for  small  vessels,  not 
drawing  above  eight  or  nine  feet  water.  The  whole  island  is  volcanic, 
destitute  of  inhabitants,  and  only  produces  the  bulbs,  plants,  and  berries 
which  are  to  be  met  with  in  all  the  Aleutian  Islands.  Pribuiloff'  found 
the  low  lands  and  surrounding  rocks  covered  with  sea  animals,  particu- 
larly the  ursine  seal  (Icotic)  and  sea-lion,  {sivoutchl ;)  and  with  the  skins 
of  these  animals  they  nearly  loaded  their  vessels. 

On  the  Island  of  St.  George  they  passed  the  winter,  and  found  the 
inland  parts  overrun  with  foxes,  which  afforded  them  a  profitable  chase. 
It  also  abounded  with  the  tusks  of  the  walrus,  which  they  picked  up  ou 
the  shores.  It  is  about  three  miles  wide,  and  extending  east  by  north 
one-half  east  nineteen  miles ;  or,  according  to  Liitke,  thirteen  and  a  half 
miles  in  length.  Drift-wood  was  at  first  abundant ;  but  that,  with  the 
fur-bearing  animals,  soon  became  scarce. 

Captain  Liitke  makes  the  following  remarks  on  it :  "  Its  east  extremity 
was  determined  by  us  to  be  in  longitude  169°  10'  west.  Its  latitude, 
according  to  Captain  Tchistiakoff',  is  56°  38'.  The  aspect  of  the  south- 
east coast  is  very  monotonous ;  on  its  level  surface  there  is  but  one  point 
rising  above  the  rest,  and  this  is  1,083  feet,  English,  above  the  sea.  The 
two  extremities  of  the  island  terminate  iu  very  steep  rocks.  The  north 
coast,  which  we  examined,  consists  entirely  of  rocks,  of  three  hundred 


*  Liitke,  Voyngo  du  S6uia\-iuc,  Part.  Naut.,  pp.  341-343. 

t  The  navigators  who  have  descrihed  more  or  less  fully  this  small  group  (besides 
that  which  stands  first,  in  the  voyage  of  the  S^uiaviue,  Part.  Naut.,  pp.  336-340,)  are, 
a  rough  account  in  Channsso's  Geological  Memoir  of  Kotzebue's  New  Voyage  Round 
the  World  ;  in  Martin  Saner's  Account  of  Billings's  Expedition,  pp.  311,  233 ;  another  in 
Langsdorft's  Travels ;  in  Lisiansky's  Voyage,  and  iu  Cajitain  Beochoy's  Voyage  of  the 
Blossom. 


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188 


ALASKA   DIKECTORY. 


feet  in  lieight,  the  grcfiter  part  rising  perpendicularly  out  of  the  water. 
In  one  position,  at  Ave  miles  from  the  northeast  point,  the  coast  vslopes 
inward,  and  is  covered  with  a  thick  herbage.  Here  is  the  company's 
establishment.  A  small  cove  between  the  rocks  serves  to  shelter  the 
baidars ;  you  may  even  anchor  there  in  south  and  southeast  winds ;  at  a 
mile  off  there  are  seventeen  fathoms  water,  black  sandy  botvom.  This 
anchorage  is  slightly  sheltered  from  the  east  by  a  low  point  between  the 
village  and  the  east  point  of  the  island.  The  surface  of  the  northwest 
part  is  perfectly  flat  and  horizontal,  and  is  covered  with  grass.  The  coasts 
in  general  are  clear,  but  at  thirteen  or  fifteen  miles  to  the  east  there  was 
a  bank  seen,  in  1824,  by  Captain  Chramtscheuko."  * 

St.  Paul's  Island,  the  second  discovered  by  Pribuiloff,  is  much  'smaller 
than  that  of  St.  George ;  this,  as  well  as  the  former,  was  the  retreat  of 
immense  herds  of  seals. 

St.  Paul  is  forty-four  miles  to  the  north  of  St.  George,  which  is  one 
hundred  and  ninety  miles  north  39°  west,  true,  from  the  north  point  of 
Ounalashka.t 

The  Eussian  hunters  have  stated  that  they  saw  from  the  summit  of 
the  highest  mountain  of  St.  Paul  some  land  to  the  southwest.  Captain 
Kotzebue  did  not  find  it,  though  he  ran  above  twenty -five  leagues  in  this 
direction.  A  vessel  was  also  dispatched  by  the  Eussian  company,  in 
1831,  1832,  and  1833,  with  the  same  result.  The  land  in  question  may 
possibly  be  further  off ;  but  Captain  Liitke  concludes,  from  all  the  re- 
marks, that  banks  of  clouds  have  caused  the  deception. 

St.  Paul  was  not  examined  by  Captain  Liitke,  and  generally  speaking 
it  has  not  been  hitherto  described  in  detail.  It  is  placed  on  the  chart 
from  an  imperfect  sketch  by  one  of  the  colonial  ofiicers.  The  island  ex- 
tends to  the  south  by  a  low  bed  of  gravel,  on  which  stands  the  village. 
At  half  a  mile  to  the  southwest  is  an  islet  called  Sivoutchi,  or  Sea-lion 
Island,  which,  according  to  Captain  Tchistiakoff,  is  in  latitude  57°  5'  and 
41'  west  of  the  east  end  of  St.  George,  and  consequently  in  1 69°  51'  west. 
Between  the  bed  of  gravel  and  the  west  end  of  the  island,  seven  or  eight 
miles  distant,  to  the  northwest,  or  northwest  and  one-quarter  west,  the 
coast  curves  into  a  bay,  and  forms  some  small  coves,  in  one  of  which  is 
a  tolerably  good  shelter  for  small  vessels.  The  eastern  and  northern 
parts  of  the  island  are  low,  and  the  coasts  sloping  and  sandy ;  but  the 
west  side  is  mountainous,  and  terminates  to  seaward  on  a  high  steep 
cape,  which  is  distinguished  by  a  remarkable  height,  surrounding  it. 
There  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  island  another  mountain  equally  remark- 
able. These  are  of  a  moderate  elevation  ;  their  summits  appear  to  be 
broken,  and  the  volcanic  stones  found  here  prove  that  they  have  b^en  in 
a  state  of  volcanic  activity. 

At  five  miles  west  southwest  from  the  Sivoutchi  Eock,  and  nearly  due 
south  (true)  from  the  west  end,  is  a  small  high  island,  seven  miles  in  cir- 

*  Voyage  du  S^niavine,  1827,  Part.  Naut.,  pp.  336,  337. 
t  Billing's  Voyage. 


I 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


189 


fly  due 
in  cir- 


cuit, called  Bobrovi  Or  Sea-otter  Island  ;  a  reef  extends  from  this  island 
for  half  a  mile  to  tlie  southwest,  and  between  this  island  and  St.  Paul 
are  some  hidden  dangers.  At  four  miles  south  75°  east,  by  compass, 
from  the  east  extremity  is  another  low  and  rocky  island,  called  Morjovi 
or  Morses'  Island.  The  relative  bearing  of  Bobrovi  and  Morjovi  is  north 
43°  east  and  south  43°  west,  (true,)  and  the  distjince  fourteen  and  a  half 
m  lies.  There  are  some  reefs  to  the  east  and  north  of  the  island,  and  also 
at  the  west  extremity. 

The  vessels  which  usually  come  in  June  and  July  to  St.  Paul  for  the 
chase  stay  on  the  southepst  side  of  the  bed  of  gravel  spoken  of  above, 
in  front  of  the  village,  at  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  coast,  in  nine 
to  thirteen  fathoms  water ;  but  there  is  no  security.  There  is  sufficient 
fresh  water  in  the  lakes  and  rivulets  of  the  two  islands.  There  is  no 
species  of  wood  growing  on  the  islands,  aud  but  very  little  drift-wood  on 
the  beaches. 

On  St.  Paul  the  principal  chase  is  sea-bears;  on  St.  George,  sea-lions. 
Foxes  are  found  on  both. 

The  climate  of  these  islands  is  as  humid  and  disagreeable  as  possible. 
Verdure  does  not  show  itself  until  the  end  of  April  or  May.  Dense  fogs 
prevail  in  summer,  the  atmosphere  is  rarely  clear,  and  the  sun  is  still 
more  rarely  to  be  seen.  Snow  falls.in  October.  In  December  north  winds 
bring  the  ice,  which  remains  here  frequently  until  May. 

It  is  sometimes  difficult  to  find  the  "small  islands"  in  the  condensed 
fogs  which  prevail  here.  Li<  tenant  Tebenkoff  has  given  some  instruc- 
tions to  follow  in  this  case ;  but  they  are  perhaps  unnecessary  here.  It 
may  only  be  stated  that,  at  times,  the  land  may  be  seen  from  the  mast- 
head when  below  it  is  very  thick ;  and  it  may  sometimes  be  found  by  the 
roaring  of  the  sea-lions  on  the  beach. 

Captain  Beechey,  on  his  first  return  from  his  exploration  north  of 
Behring's  Strait,  passed  these  islands ;  we  transcribe  his  remarks : 

"  On  the  21st  October,  1826,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Island  of  St. 
Paul,  the  northern  island  of  a  small  group  which,  though  long  known  to 
English  geographers,  has  been  omitted  in  some  of  our  most  esteemed 
modern  charts.  The  group  consists  of  three  islands,  named  St.  George, 
St.  Paul,  and  Sea-otter.  We  saw  only  the  two  latter  in  this  passage ; 
but  in  the  following  year  passed  near  to  the  other,  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  St.  Paul  to  that  on  which  our  course  was  directed  at  this  time. 
The  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  are  both  high,  with  bold  shores, 
and  without  any  port,  though  there  is  said  to  be  anchoring  gi-ound  off 
both,  and  soundings  in  the  offing  at  moderate  depths.  At  a  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles  from  Sea-otter  Island,  in  the  direction  of  north  37° 
west,  true,  and  in  latitude  59°  22'  north,  we  had  fifty-two  fathoms,  hard 
ground ;  after  this,  proceeding  southward,  the  water  deepens.  St.  Paul 
is  distinguished  by  three  small  peaks,  which,  one  of  them  in  particular, 
have  the  appearance  of  craters ;  St.  George  consists  of  two  hills,  united 
by  moderately  high  ground,  and  is  higher  than  St.  Paulj  both  werecov- 


7/    ^■i^iJ||iW^IJ|.^«>!(p«''flP«i.^|M,<.ii'*U''""  .'i'^>!'l",)lJ|^'»'"#!WH'."li'M..JT«»,,n^JWfl!li,>.rii.'»vw>' 


if 


|l 


I 


190 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


ered  with  n  brown  vegetation.  Sea-otter  Island  is  very  small,  and  little 
better  than  a  rock.  The  Russians  have  long  had  settlements,  upon  both 
the  large  islands,  subordinate  to  the  establishments  at  Sitka,  and  annu- 
ally send  thither  for  peltry,  consisting  principally  of  the  skins  of  amphib- 
ious animals,  which,  from  their  fine  funy  nature,  are  highly  valued  by 
the  Chinese  and  Tartar  nations."* 

Commander  Islands. — These  two  islands,  Behring  said  Medny,  or 
Copper  Islands,  do  not  in  reality  form  a  portion  of  the  Aleutian  Archi- 
pelago, but  must  be  considered  as  a  part  of  the  chain  conueciiug  the 
volcanoes  of  America  with  those  of  Kamtschatka. 

The  first  Russian  navigators  gave  them  their  present  name,  in  mem- 
ory of  one  of  the  most  tragic  ev^ents  in  the  annals  of  navigation — the 
death  of  Behring,  (known  in  these  countries  under  his  title  of  Comman- 
der,) on  the  westernmost  island,  which  now  bears  his  name. 

Like  all  the  rest  of  the  islands  in  this  sea,  there  has,  prior  to  Captain 
Liitke's  work,  been  no  connected  description  of  them.  Captain  Billings 
saw  the  north  coast  of  Behring  Island,  and  Captain  Golownin  determined 
the  position  of  the  south  extremities  of  the  two  islands,  but  did  not 
describe  the  whole  of  the  coasts.  Captains  Kotzebue  ond  Beechey  saw 
the  northwest  part  of  the  same,  and  Captain  Liitke  saw  tlie  north  and 
northeast  coasts ;  and  lastly,  the  Russian  American  Company's  officers 
have  furnished  some  notices  of  the  bays.  Captain  Liitke's  Voyage  of 
the  Seniavine  has  furnished  us  with  the  accounts  of  them. 

Behring  Island  is  nearly  fifty  miles  long  from  northwest  to  south- 
east. Its  greatest  breadth  at  the  north  end  is  sixteen  or  seventeen  miles  ; 
to  the  southea^st  it  narrows  and  forms  a  pointed  cape,  in  latitude  54° 
41'  5",  longitude  100°  40'  east.  A  chain  of  mountains,  two  thousand  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  extends  throughout  the  island ;  in  its  center  are 
some  peaks.  They  are  in  general  higher  in  tlie  south,  and  lower  and 
more  even  in  the  north.  The  south  cape,  called  Cape  Manati  by  Behring's 
companions,  is  conspicuous  by  some  high-peaked  rocks  terminating  it. 
From  this  the  east  coast  trends  north  in  steep  cliff's  to  Cape  Khitroflf, 
in  latitude  54°  56',  longitude  166°  38'  east.  From  this  to  the  northeast 
point,  Cape  Waxell,  the  coast  trends  generally  northwest  one-quarter 
north,  and  southeast  one-quarter  south,  forming  some  insignificant 
curves,  frequently  intersected  by  ravines  and  cavities.  The  northeast 
extreme  is  an  obtuse,  low  head,  projecting  three  miles  into  the  sea. 
Reefs  project  from  its  north  and  east  angles  to  a  mile  or  more,  and  it 
seems  that  all  this  coast  is  bestrewed  with  rocks.  In  the  curve  formed 
by  the  east  coast  is  a  small  bay  with  a  sandy  beach,  on  which  is  a  large 
quantity  of  driftwood. 

Cape  Youchin,  the  low  northwest  extremity  of  the  island,  is  in  lati- 
tude 55°  25',  and  longitude  105°  50'  east.  From  this  point  a  dangerous 
covered  reef  extends  two  miles  to  the  north,  on  which,  at  four  cables' 
length  from  the  shore,  is  a  large  uncovered  rock.  Between  Capes  Waxell 

*  Beechey,  Voyage,  part  i,  pp.  339,  340 


rj  *r'i^W'*7]Tv*'-'''^'^.^.'>*v^'^yi')\TV^^ 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


191 


and  Youchin  tlie  coast  forms  an  open  bay,  and  about  midway  between 
them,  in  a  ravine  covered  with  verdure,  with  a  small  river,  is  a  temi>o- 
rary  establishment  of  the  liussian  American  Company,  consisting  of  a 
few  yonrts  and  huts,  used  by  the  promychlenniks,  who  hunt  the  polar 
foxes.    These  men  say  the  whole  of  the  bay  is  bestrewed  Avith  rocks. 

From  Cape  Youchin  the  coast  trends  to  southwest  to  the  west  extyem- 
ity  of  the  island,  in  latitude  55°  17',  and  longitude  165°  41'  east ;  and 
thence  to  the  southeast,  in  which  direction,  at  ten  miles  further  on,  is 
the  company's  factory,  on  the  shore  of  a  small  bay  open  to  northwest, 
where,  in  summer,  is  tolerably  good  anchorage  in  four  or  live  fathoms, 
sand,  at  a  third  of  a  mile  from  shore.  This  bay  is  called  here  the  port ; 
but  it  must  be  by  contrast  to  the  other  unapproachable  points.  Two 
islets  abreast  of  the  village,  due  west  by  comi)ass,  are  good  marks  to 
make  the  port ;  the  one,  Toporkoff,  is  two  miles,  and  the  other,  the  Arii 
Kock,*  (the  Alcas  Kock,)  at  nearly  six  miles.  The  first  is  a  mile  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  not  very  high ;  the  other  is  a  high  rock,  inhabited 
by  a  multitude  of  alcas.  Between  the  two,  rather  nearest  to  Toi>orkoff, 
is  a  sunken  rock  that  only  uncovers  at  low  water,  called  Polovintchaty. 
To  the  northeast  of  this  again  are  some  indications  of  sunken  reefs,  so 
that  the  north  sides  of  these  islands  should  be  avoided. 

The  southwest  coast  of  the  island,  from  the  port  to  the  south  extreme? 
is  entirely  unknown. 

The  spot  where  Behring  died,  as  related  in  a  former  page,  is  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island,  at  three-quarters  of  a  mile  west-northwest  from 
Cape  Khitroflf. 

The  water  is  very  deep  around  the  island.  At  from  four  to  six  miles 
off  the  northeast  and  north  shores  the  depth  was  found  to  be  fifty-eight 
to  sixty-seven  fathoms,  muldy  bottom  on  the  north  side ;  further  to  the 
east,  stony  bottom. 

The  magnetic  variation  was  found  by  Liitke  to  be  5°  50'  east,  (1827,) 
or  3°  less  than  Kotzebue  in  1821,  so  that  there  is  some  error  in  one  or 
both.    Tebenkoff  makes  it  10°  east  in  1831  at  Medny  Island. 

Medny  or  Copper  Island  is  remarkable  for  its  long  and  narrow  fig- 
ure. The  only  island  it  resembles  hereab(mt  is  Amlia.  It  is  about  thirty 
miles  in  length,  and  its  greatest  breadth  towards  the  middle  is  not  more 
than  five  miles ;  it  frequently  does  not  exceed  two  miles.  It  seems  to 
be  the  crest  of  a  mountain  rising  out  of  the  sea  in  a  southeast  and  north- 
west direction.  Medny  Island  is  scarcely  lower  than  its  neighbor,  Beh- 
ring Island;  seen  from  the  Behring  Cross,  as  the  spot  where  the  Comman- 
der perished  is  termed,  it  appears  to  consist  of  three  islands.  Its  shores 
are  very  steep,  clear  in  most  parts,  and  the  depth  around  very  great. 
There  are  some  reefs  at  its  northwest  and  southwest  extremities,  and  at 
some  other  points,  but  they  do  not  extend  far  off.  The  island  is  entirely 
without  anchorage  for  large  ships ;  but  on  its  northeast     le,  at  ten  miles 

*0nHilke'8  chart  this  is  called  Sivoutcliy ;  on  that  of  Kotzb^ae,  which  has  fur- 
nislied  the  extent  and  figiu-e  of  the  island,  it  is  named  Novy  (new.) 


n9fp*9fijP^IP!>!!«!«PPV*p 


192 


ALASKA  DIRECTORY. 


from  its  northwest  extreme,  is  a  small  port,  where  small  vessels  may 
ride.  The  coast  here  forms  a  small  bay  to  the  west  and  south,  two- 
thirds  of  a  mile  in  circumfereuce,  having  in  its  entrance  siy  and  seven 
fathoms,  which,  further,  is  diminished  to  two,  bottom  of  sand  and  stones. 

The  or  ex  coasts  of  the  bay  are  high;  the  southwest  side  is  clear,  but 
on  the  east  side  is  a  multitude  of  isolated  rocks  and  stones,  which  shelter 
the  port  a  little  from  the  north.  These  rocks,  and  a  high  conical  moun- 
tain on  the  southeast  side  of  the  bay,  serve  as  marks  for  entering.  The 
rocks  must  be  left  to  starboard,  and  then  steer  direct  for  the  village,  and 
as  soon  as  you  reach  as  high  as  a  stone  column  on  the  west  side  of  the 
little  harbor,  you  must  cast  anchor  mstantly,  and  at  the  same  time  moor 
the  stern  to  the  shore,  for  there  is  no  room  for  her  to  swing.  You  will 
have  two  and  two  and  a  half  fathoms  at  half  a  cable's  length  from  the 
shore.  The  harbor  is  badly  sheltered  from  the  north,  and  to  guard 
against  north  winds  always  keep  a  suflScient  scope  of  cable. 

The  company's  establishment  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  harbor.  Its 
latitude  is  54°  47'.  According  to  the  observations  of  Captain  Golownin, 
the  southeast  extremity  of  the  island  is  in  latitude  54°  32'  24",  and  lon- 
gitude 168°  9'  east.  .  The  latitude  of  the  northwest  extremity  is  54°  52' 
25",  and  its  longitude  167°  31'  east. 

Meduy  (Medonf  or  Copper,  as  the  Russian  name  signifies)  was  thus 
named  on  account  of  the  native  copper  found  here,  and  which  was 
attempted  to  be  worked  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  This  fact  is 
not  generally  known,  or  has  been  forgotten.  It  was  said  that  the  copper 
was  a  portion  of  a  Japanese  vessel  wrecked  here ;  a  party  of  miners 
was  sent  here  in  1755,*  but  the  poverty  of  the  mine  led  to  its  abandon- 
ment. 

The  climate  of  these  islands  is  not  very  rigorous.  There  are  no  very 
intense  frosts  in  winter,  but  they  have  at  times  very  heavy  snow-storms. 
In  January  and  February  the  northwest  and  west  winds  bring  the  ice 
on  the  coasts  in  large  quantities.  The  weather  is  clear  with  northeast 
and  east  winds ;  it  is  overcast  with  those  from  east  and  southeast.  Fogs 
and  cold  prevail  throughout  the  spring;  the  snow  does  not  disappear 
entirely  before  June ;  the  best  part  of  the  year  is  the  month  of  August. 

There  are  no  active  volcanoes  on  either  of  the  islands,  but  earthquakes 
are  frequent,  the  shocks  of  which  are  sometimes  felt  for  a  long  time,  as, 
for  example,  in  June,  1827,  the  oscillations  lasted  for  four  minutes  by  the 
watch,  without  interruption.  Sometimes,  during  an  earthquake,  the  sea 
rapidly  rises  ten  feet  or  more,  and  falls  again  with  the  same  rapidity. 

The  tides  at  both  islands  rise  generally  about  six  or  seven  feetj  at  the 
new  and  full  moon.  No  particular  current  has  been  noticed  between  the 
islands. 

After  violent  and  long-continued  winds,  a  large  quantity  of  drift-wood 
is  thrown  on  to  the  shores,  principally  of  those  species  that  grow  at 
Kamtschatka,  but  sometimes  the  cypress  that  grows  on  the  American 

*  See  Courrier  de  Sib6rie,  1822,  tome  xviii. 


ALASKA   DIRECTORY. 


193 


.coast,  aud  even  the  wood  which  only  grows  at  Japan.  Sometimes,  also, 
lacquered  vessels  of  wood,  of  Japanese  manufacture,  have  been  found, 
which  goes  to  prove  that  in  this  part  of  the  ocean  the  currents  trend  to 
north  or  northeast. 

There  are  no  trees  on  either  island,  but  in  the  ravines  and  along  the 
small  rivers  there  are  some  bushes  of  willow  and  the  service  tree.  Of 
plants  fit  for  food,  angelica,  nettles,  sorrel,  and  parsley  are  found;  the 
yellow  raspberry  and  whortleberries  are  in  great  quantities.  The  only 
land  animals  are  polar  foxes,  particularly  blue  ones ;  of  amphibious  ones, 
the  betrr,  sea-lion,  and  sea-calf  are  found.  Whales  are  seldom  taken. 
Partridges  are  met  with,  and  so  are  swans ;  of  sea-birds  there  is  an 
abundance. 

Behring  Island  abounds  in  small  rivers,  rich  in  fish  that  come  here  to 
spawn. 

The  Aleutes  say  that  in  some  parts  of  the  strait,  between  the  islands, 
there  are  sunken  rocks ;  but  as  they  have  not  yet  been  seen,  this  may 
be  doubted. 


